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Shelf LAG bolt removal and re-insertion

pdude

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Nov 16, 2015
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San Jose, California
If I had a strong shelf and I removed the lag bolts and then re-inserted new ones (or the same bolt)into the same hole (same size as before) and put the shelf back would that cause any concerns?

Reason I'm doing this is I have some metal 24" depth shelves that can carry a heavy load (though I'm not overly stressing it) and I want to put a pegboard behind it that extends underneath. Cutting the aluminum pegboard could cause some structural concerns on the pegboard itself (manufacturer says this) and not to mention might not look as nice.

Any thoughts? Am I risking my shelves falling down by replacing the lag bolts?

Another question, can I re-use the old LAG bolts? I'm figuring this is more risky too.


Here's a picture of the brackets.
 

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Kaizen

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Take one out. I bet it’s a lag screw into wall studs. I think you can see the vertical shadow of the stud for some reason.
Measure between the lags and they will probably be 16” on center. Stud finder also will confirm. Heavy stuff is not usually just into drywall.


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rlitman

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Are you planning on hanging the shelf brackets on top of the pegboard? That's going to lower it's load bearing strength by quite a lot.
 

infinkc

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I would say it’s ok to reuse and put back in the same hole, only question is, is your pegboard spaced off the wall? Cause you may want to put a longer bolt back in, and also would have to space it behind.
 
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pdude

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I would say it’s ok to reuse and put back in the same hole, only question is, is your pegboard spaced off the wall? Cause you may want to put a longer bolt back in, and also would have to space it behind.

Good idea. I was mulling that idea too. Longer LAG bolt and maybe a wood spacer to stick under the pegboard so it's a solid hold. My main concern was pulling out that lag bolt and putting one back in the same slot. I'm fairly sure drilling new holes in the pegboard won't be as bad as I'm looking at buying the Wall Control pegboard or something similar to it to match the metal look.
 

BillK

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I wouldnt think twice about doing it and no need for new bolts either. I have lag bolts into the studs in my detached garage that have been removed and replaced a few times for painting. You are over thinking it. Just dont get stupid with tightening them. I always do it by hand so you can stop when its tight.
 
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pdude

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Take one out. I bet it’s a lag screw into wall studs. I think you can see the vertical shadow of the stud for some reason.
Measure between the lags and they will probably be 16” on center. Stud finder also will confirm. Heavy stuff is not usually just into drywall.


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It definitely is connected to the studs. The Garage studs were not the typical 16" apart. But it's in the studs today and I want to insert the pegboard in between the sheetrock and brackets and re-insert the lag into through all 3 to the studs.
 
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pdude

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I wouldnt think twice about doing it and no need for new bolts either. I have lag bolts into the studs in my detached garage that have been removed and replaced a few times for painting. You are over thinking it. Just dont get stupid with tightening them. I always do it by hand so you can stop when its tight.

Thanks that's the kind of confirmation is good to know.
 
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rlitman

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Unless the screws are too short to begin with the extra thickness of the pegboard shouldn't make any difference at all.

Huh? Pegboard needs to be at least 3/4" thick. Remember that you need clearance for the pegs behind the board.

At the very least, you MUST have something solid behind the shelf bracket, or else the shelf bracket will crush the empty space under it.
 

rlitman

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X2 on longer lag bolts to make up for the added pegboard.
I would replace the lag bolts with construction screws.

Well, Spax and GRK make some fantastic screws that are far stronger than old lags, and which are also less likely to split wood. They've made old lags obsolete for new work.

However, since the old holes will already be opened up from the old lags, switching horses here might not be the best idea.
 

Lynden

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When inserting a lag (or any screw) into an existing hole I always rotate the screw counterclockwise with my fingers until I feel the existing threads. If strength matters, try to avoid cutting new threads.
 

MOTODOJO

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Tejas
When inserting in a new hole or old... check the head of the lag periodically while installing. If it gets fairly warm, let it cool before continuing to twist. You can break heads off pretty easily. Lags, even with pilot holes can encounter quite a bit of friction.

Regarding re-using the holes... pack in some cotton and wood glue.
 

rlitman

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As far as I've ever known, pegboard only comes in 2 thicknesses: 1/8 & 1/4.

Metal pegboard aside, that 1/8" pegboard isn't going to be useful as a pegboard if it's mounted flat on the wall. Now if you're going for a sound stage aesthetic, then ok, but I'm assuming you're going to want to put pegs into it.
 

Jinks

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As far as I've ever known, pegboard only comes in 2 thicknesses: 1/8 & 1/4.

Almost all peg board is 1/4" THICK. The 1/8 & 1/4 option refers to the size of the PEG.

For mounting peg board on an existing wall you should have at least 1/2", & preferably 3/4" space between the peg board & the sheet rock. Using the existing holes won't be a problem (as long as you can line them up) but you will need lag screws long enough to make up for any spacer you use between the sheet rock & the peg board.
 

nadogail

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The same size bolt in the same size hole should told the same load.

If the penetration changes, the equations variables will cause a different result.

You might want to consider a longer deeper penetrating Lag Bolt.
 
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