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Shelving as a workbench option?

LongW8

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Has anyone used these heavy duty shaving units as a workbench. I'm thinking Husky, Gladiator, etc.

My thought was to put two shelfs below the workbench shelf (the 3rd shelf from the bottom @36" high is the workbench surface) and one at the top of the unit. Line the workbench shelf surface with 3/4 MDF or plywood. Maybe close off the back with 1/2 plywood (shear strength) or just use a peg board. The ones I'm looking at are 24" deep x 77" wide x 78" high. I would put two of them next to one another for a 154" long workbench. These have shelf capacity ratings range from 1,800# (Cobalt) - 2,500# (Husky) depending on brand.

Sturdy enough? Good enough for mounting a vice?

Ive seen one picture of someone that did something similar but it looked like they used a more commercial pallet racking system.


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fteufert

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I did that with some commercial shelving. Mine was 4x8x10" tall

It was bolted to the garage structure and never moved when I was working on something.

I used to use the top cross bar to lift engines :)
 

FMB4

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I've been using shelving as light duty work benches since the early '90s (mostly 12v auto electrical). Have had no problems doing so, but I'll likely lag screw these to the walls for increased stability during heavier work.
 

cvairwerks

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I've got a desk and a test bench made out of those style racks. Best suggestion, if you need the workspace, is only put two shelves in each bay, and use the extras in between the upright sets to get three bays instead. I've got a couple hundred linear feet of shelving done that way over in my storage units. Two complete shelving units gives me three bays of storage, so I've down that down each wall.
 

niget2002

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I don't have a vise on mine, but I do rc and electronics work on a cheap shelf. I figure if it can hold the weight, it doesn't matter. Lower shelves make a good place to rest my feet when sitting on a stool.
 

Bucko

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They will get the job done and the idea above of using the 3rd shelf as a bridge either at bench height or overhead storage height (allowing tall items to fit in those areas) would be the best option.
I have always been more of a built in design to use the space best. That being said I am now into my 5th time doing that because of moving so there is something to be said about being able to take it with you. The built-in style can make for a nice selling feature but I'm sure don't really add any value. I know for a fact the last house I sold the guy ripped it all out to fit his cars in. The picture is from that house, its of the 1 car side I divided of the 3 car garage. My plan was for it to be built as inexpensive as possible and fit the most stuff as I was downsizing in space. I would not paint cabinets white again is one thing I learned from that build but with such a small area I wanted to keep it bright but it shows everything from dust to grease smudges on the doors so needs constant cleaning.
 

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BetterDays

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Please forgive the mess. Reorganizing, decluttering, and projects all at one time.

The workbench in the middle is the same shelf pictured, whereas the shelf next to it is a much lighter weight version. The mobile bench with the bucket in it is also the same lightweight racking (I have two other 8' long lightweight benches with the same units). I used the lightweight racking since we bought heavyweight racks for the basement (tote storage and another unit for gym equipment that is kept outside of the main gym area.)

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LongW8

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Please forgive the mess. Reorganizing, decluttering, and projects all at one time.

The workbench in the middle is the same shelf pictured, whereas the shelf next to it is a much lighter weight version. The mobile bench with the bucket in it is also the same lightweight racking (I have two other 8' long lightweight benches with the same units). I used the lightweight racking since we bought heavyweight racks for the basement (tote storage and another unit for gym equipment that is kept outside of the main gym area.)
Thats kind of what I was thinking only I would have two workbenches (like you show in the middle) next to one another.

The area would be used for motorcycle repair and maintenance. As well other things.

I was thinking about mounting them to the wall for additional stability when using a vice.
 

BetterDays

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Thats kind of what I was thinking only I would have two workbenches (like you show in the middle) next to one another.

The area would be used for motorcycle repair and maintenance. As well other things.

I was thinking about mounting them to the wall for additional stability when using a vice.
You should have no problems with stability if you bolt to the wall, esp once you add plywood over the wire mesh and see about securing that to the supports as well.. We have kettlebells on a shelf in the gym and have no concerns about strength.
 

BetterDays

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The rack is on sale for $169 currently at HD
I bought them on Black Friday a few years ago. Should have seen the workers's faces when my wife and I were loaded them on the cart instead of waiting for their team of people to load them.
 

ab0mination

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I did it, worked fine.

the gladiators are much nicer than the husky if you can find them.
 

niget2002

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It works. My setup was only meant to be temporary at the time, but then Covid hit and lumber went to the moon. I know it's come back down, but I've not got around to building a proper bench. I'm also not using the heavy duty racking and I put a layer of 5/8" (I think) OSB on top of the thin wood it came with (when OSB was still cheap).

Overall I have no complaints. It's a place to work. I was able to mount a vise. It's mostly sturdy, but doesn't see hard use. I even have a HF tool box fully loaded with minimal bowing, although that too was supposed to only be temporary.

Hopefully going to remedy all these temporary things soon.
Looks just like the one I was talking about. Only I used 3/4" plywood for the top shelves.
 

soloz2

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I have a couple workbenches using some cheaper shelving units. Just use half and they work. I've added a second piece of plywood on the top so the wood rises above the metal uprights. Functional, even to bang on pretty good, but realistically more of a temporary setup IMHO.
 
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LongW8

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I did it, worked fine.

the gladiators are much nicer than the husky if you can find them.
The Gladiator claims a 2,000 pound shelf capacity and is $250. 72" high
The Husky claims a 2,500 pound shelf capacity and is $300. 78" high

I was thinking that, with a shelf in the upper most position, it might be a head banger at only 72" high. I was leaning towards the Husky for the extra height as well as the claimed shelf capacity.

Why do you feel the Gladiator is nicer?
 

ab0mination

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I think the Gladiator finish is a lot nicer, and while the Husky require minimal tools to assemble, the Gladiator require none. I can't speak to the shelf capacity, but the Gladiator feel more rigid and I'd bet they're lighter.

The head clearance argument makes sense. I've owned several of both, I don't think you'll be disappointed either way.
 

ab0mination

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also consider if you buy two, you can link them together with a single shelf for your workbench and potentially not need to have a shelf up top…obvious a no go if you don’t have a lot of room or want a continuous top shelf.
 
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BetterDays

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also consider if you buy two, you can link them together with a single shelf for your workbench and potentially not need to have a shelf up top…obvious a no go if you don’t have a lot of room or want a continuous top shelf.
This is what I did. The blue is the cheaper, rivet shelf. The green is the remnants of our basement project, where we used extra shelves in our basement project (4 units total in the basement).

Also, with the gladiator, you can share an upright between shelves based on the design (which is why we had extra uprights to use)
 

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rayra

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It will work but you'll lose half of the heavy shelving brackets if you want any headroom or footroom on the 'workbench'. The layout could be very similar to my old hobby / reloading bench at our previous house. Full depth 'shelves' as work surface and high storage, half depth as lower shelving so I could sit at the workbench on a stool
 

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finn

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That’s pretty much what I did in the garage, and I am considering it for the shop to replace the old kitchen cabinet lowere along one wall.

The uprights get in the way if you use the six foot uprights., so I have probably twenty feet of the short uprights along two walls, probably 36” tall. Works fine with a bench vice. I just have ply for a top, but the upper metal rail is exposed along the edge. Easy to fix if that’s a problem for you, with a second layer of plywood.

In another section, I used some old kitchen countertops to make a 6’ work top. Works fine between the uprights, but not suitable for a vice because of the posts. That gives overhead storage, but limits the bench to small workpieces.

Mine is the older Menards Gorilla rack, but there are several vendors with similar shelving.

All in, I probably have at least forty lineal feet of the Menards shelving, some six or eight feet high, and the rest three or so, and open on top.
 

BetterDays

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You can do the same with the Husky.
Mine may actually be a Husky, but I have two different versions.

Here is the heavy duty one I have.

HuskyBlack 4-Tier Heavy Duty Industrial Welded Steel Garage Shelving Unit (77 in. W x 78 in. H x 24 in. D)
SKU# 310651468

I don't believe you can share an upright on the lighter, rivet version.
 

BetterDays

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Adding to note it is same shelf shown above.
You might be able to cut an upright to make the longer bench if needed
 

BetterDays

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The rack is on sale for $169 currently at HD
I bought them on Black Friday a few years ago. Should have seen the workers's faces when my wife and I were loaded them on the cart instead of waiting for their team of people to load them.
I lied on the price... It was a different rack.
 

48windsor

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Olympia ,Wa.
Has anyone used these heavy duty shaving units as a workbench. I'm thinking Husky, Gladiator, etc.

My thought was to put two shelfs below the workbench shelf (the 3rd shelf from the bottom @36" high is the workbench surface) and one at the top of the unit. Line the workbench shelf surface with 3/4 MDF or plywood. Maybe close off the back with 1/2 plywood (shear strength) or just use a peg board. The ones I'm looking at are 24" deep x 77" wide x 78" high. I would put two of them next to one another for a 154" long workbench. These have shelf capacity ratings range from 1,800# (Cobalt) - 2,500# (Husky) depending on brand.

Sturdy enough? Good enough for mounting a vice?

Ive seen one picture of someone that did something similar but it looked like they used a more commercial pallet racking system.


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yes bought a 6ft shelfunit cut it in half . Had to be sturdy for a piece 3/16 steel to sit on top,so it doubled as a workbench shelving unit.
I have to have movable shelves ! Never know when a new tool will arrive or just change ideas
 

Fatboy148

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I have a bunch of the Gladiator shelving at the house and IMO, it is the nicest of what's available at the box stores. One issue I would see is the depth, the Gladiator and Husky I have is either 18" or 24" deep and IMO, after you get some stuff on it, that wouldn't be deep enough for a work bench. The area I made in my shop, I used Penco pallet rack, the HD 48" deep stuff. The open area is 10' wide. I even mounted a 6" vise to an upright using a Harbor Freight hitch receiver. I just cut and planed a piece of 2"x to fill the U shaped cavity so it wouldn't crush when I through bolted the hitch mount to it. Then I just slide my vise or grinder into the receiver when I want to use it. To date, it's been very solid and haven't even felt the need to Tapcon the foot plate at the bottom of the upright to the concrete slab. I do have quite a bit of weight upon the shelf that attaches to the upright and spans over the open area though.
 

ab0mination

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I just set up a new Husky 77" in my dad's garage. The design has slightly changed since my last purchase (within the last 3-4 years). No longer strictly requires tools (before you had a nut and bolt to tighten on the short shelf supports, but now they're more similar to Gladiator), but they do come with a plastic pins that probably require a rubber mallet to fully seat.

Interestingly, the longer shelf supports are now stamped Edsal. Finish seems ever so slightly nicer, but that could just be a reflection of age/wear.
 

mike93lx

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I had this in my last garage. Worked OK. Had three metal cabinets mounted on the back panel that just barely fit between the uprights. The plywood sides ensured nothing would roll off and get lost
 

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BombShelter

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I feel sorry for you guys that don't have a Menards close by. You can buy prosumer racking a-la-carte with dozens of options including desks, cabinets, drawers and more important height. Personally I like the kind with clips that slide in the post holes. Shelve supports will need a wrench.

If you can find boxed racking with similar bracket holes, there's a good chance you can add it to your existing set-up, I did that with mine, they might be made in USA by Edsel?

I've bought a ton of both boxed and Menards a-la-carte over the last six years, Menards always has the best pricing right around this time of year. The other racks I like a lot is the DeWalt Yellow Stuff, I get it at Fleet Farm. This is much more finished and really nice looking. I've got two small units with the black shelves, one's holding super-heavy 70's monster receivers and the other is holding printer and other heavy office equipment. I've got these in my office, they look that good. DeWalt also has work space options and you can stack the small shelves if you need height.
 

finn

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Isthe shelving Menards sells now interchangeable with the old stuff they sold under, I think, The Gorilla Rack brand name? It’s the same tan color, and the same general construction, but for some reason they changed the name.

If it’s the same, i will pick some up to do some reconfiguration, especially some of the doors to make things a little neater.

As to the depth, one can always cut the top to overhang in the front and even the back. I am using surplus kitchen counter top for a portion of the lower racking. Makes a smooth, hard top for general use. Not great for hammering or welding, obviously.
 

RoninB4

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Just a suggestion here. I have several wooden work benches from 3" thick white oak but wanted something that wouldn't absorb liquids. Find someone that's remodeling the kitchen or stop by a contractor that remodels kitchens. The counter tops are usually a bit nicked up from knife work but they're free. Semi soft top that's great for greasy/oily disassembly, wipes clean, and is thick enough to stand up to pounding. Cut to size/shape and make a stand. Not for everybody but I'd made shelving with them too. Hope this helps someone.
 

tanke92113

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Oct 18, 2021
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San Diego
If you are in no hurry look around for some industrial pallet racking you might be able to get it cheap or possibly even free. This one was originally 12ft high but i cut it down to 8ft. It is 24" deep and 8 feet wide
D2D6F5AA-39A7-44FC-ABB9-E06CD1709F17.jpeg
 

nadogail

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My present workbench was free for hauling it away. It is a Hallowell (so?) that a young officer saw and as he saw it; he almost shouted “get that thing out of here”. I said, Yes Sir, and I volunteered to drive it away in my own pickup.
That bench, with a flipped over top and a good coat of paint has served me well since 1976 and will be in my will.
The composite top is 2.5” thick and the welded legs are braced with a heavy steel shelf with a 2” lip up at the back. The bench has survived being moved between 5 houses and the next move will be after I can no longer use it.
As a minimum I would recommend you get an old Solid Core door and put a frame under it. If it won’t hold the weight of an engine and you can’t beat something on it; it is not a workbench, it is Furniture.
 
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