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Shelving Unit To Store Storage Bins

D45

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Mar 21, 2014
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I have way too many storage bins in my basement (half) and sorting through them is a PITA

I want to build a shelving unit on the entire back side of the garage

2x3 or 2x4 for the structure?

I am thinking OSB for the shelving bases.........but what thickness?

Most of these bins just have seasonable decor and misc nonsense items in them, so they aren't really heavy, at all

The bins are the typical 18 gallon size:
24"L x 18"W x 15-1/2"T

I have the entire back side of the garage to work with:

9'9" Tall
16'11" Wide

I have a corner section of the garage with is notched out, for the closet near the foyer. This notch area in the garage is 20-1/4" deep, so I would like to build the shelves to come out near flush with this notch, the 1/4" I am not worried about

So, basically the entire shelving unit will be build to be 20" deep/wide, which will nicely accommodate the bins beings 18" deep/wide
20-1/4" Deep
 
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kylefitz

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Jun 29, 2006
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218
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Kansas City, mo
You would get less waste if you mad the shelves 2 feet deep. I have some shelves build in the basement from the PO out of 2x4s on edge and they are super strong And span about 8 feet. You could easily get by with 2x3 as along as you put them on edge. Build a frame then rip what ever sheet goods you can get cheapest in half and call it good. Rough math you could fit them 6 high and 8 maybe 9 wide if you put them in long ways. Think file cabinet drawer. That way you can also pop the lid on one end and slide something it the right tote.
 
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Backpack Hunter

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Jun 15, 2014
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792
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NC
I have 18" deep, 2x4 shelving with 1/2" plywood running a 16' distance on one wall of my garage. Supports every 16". Works well, I see no reason it wouldn't work with an extra 2" of depth.
 

GirlnAgarage

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Jan 21, 2011
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4,668
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Texas
2x4 and 3/4" ply. Use the typical cross bracing on your frame and it'll be fine.

I built the standard ladder frame and attached to the front walls, ran the vertical corner legs. Ply for the shelves. I also went 24" depth. Just easier math/waste when cutting the ply.
 
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D45

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NW INDIANA
I could make them deeper or less-deep, but I really want them to be flush with the notched corner cutout in the garage.......for a smooth transition/look

I know cutting the OSB to 20" will leave me with leftovers, but not much for the burn pile

I am going to take down the current single shelf that's on this wall now, patch some drywall screw holes and paint the wall first.......hopefully done this week

I will take current pics and pics as the project progresses

I am "ok" with using 2x4s, not that much more money, at all

I think 3/4" it was overkill for what I need/want.....especially since the shelf will only be 20" deep, it will not sag even with 1/2"
 

Vegaman_Dan

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Location
Pacific, WA
The difference between 2x4 and 2x3 lumber won't be enough to deal with. The cost isn't that much different, and the hassle of not using standard dimensional lumber will bite you at some point. Stick with 2x4. Simple, cheap, bulk quantities.

For the shelves, I do them in simple 2x8 sections and use 1/2" to 5/8" OSB for the shelf surface.

I advise replacing what ever tubs you have with clear /translucent ones with flip tops. Labeling the ends is VERY helpful, and you can do it simply by taping a sheet protector to one end so you can slide in your own labels, or change them out later. Clear/translucent cases help with identifying the contents without having to go through 8 tubs before finding what you wanted.
 
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D45

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I already have 40+ bins.......not buying new ones

I will simply buy 100 adhesive labels for $5 and mark them accordingly

I will definitely stick with 2x4s for the "structure"

What's everyone think about this..........instead of using plywood for the shelf bases, use 2x4s? My neighbor has some built this way and swears by it
 

creativecars

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Nov 15, 2010
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Indiana- where horse and buggies still roam
I did a similar thing. I got lucky and found a pallet of shelves that a guy was clearing out. I think I gave $50 for 100 of them, they are 16"X 40" if I remember right. I built the 2x4 structures to acomodate the shelves and used angle iron from old bed frames for the work bench height area. I have some before and building pics that I can find.

Sorry for the mess, but this was done as we were moving in. I had to move the gas heater and water lines.:sad:
 

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LennyTheLizard

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Oct 25, 2010
Messages
325
Location
Southeast MO
I made a set 24" Deep.
2' x 8' 2x4 frames. Legs set inside corners, and 1/2" Plywood notched around legs.

I moved my shelves to form a small room in corner of my basement so everything would be hidden unless you walk into "room" My air compressor is also stored in there, and helps to dampen the noise some.

From outside the room, the wall has hinged doors so you can access from outside, but I found I have not used that much at all.

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jimgood

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Joined
Aug 4, 2014
Messages
2,394
Location
Marshall, VA
I have way too many storage bins in my basement (half) and sorting through them is a PITA

I want to build a shelving unit on the entire back side of the garage

2x3 or 2x4 for the structure?

I am thinking OSB for the shelving bases.........but what thickness?

Most of these bins just have seasonable decor and misc nonsense items in them, so they aren't really heavy, at all

The bins are the typical 18 gallon size:
24"L x 18"W x 15-1/2"T

I have the entire back side of the garage to work with:

9'9" Tall
16'11" Wide

I have a corner section of the garage with is notched out, for the closet near the foyer. This notch area in the garage is 20-1/4" deep, so I would like to build the shelves to come out near flush with this notch, the 1/4" I am not worried about

So, basically the entire shelving unit will be build to be 20" deep/wide, which will nicely accommodate the bins beings 18" deep/wide
20-1/4" Deep
Are you thinking a single shelf up high (suspended from ceiling) or floor to ceiling with multiple shelves?
 

legenddc

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Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
1,071
I already have 40+ bins.......not buying new ones

I will simply buy 100 adhesive labels for $5 and mark them accordingly

I will definitely stick with 2x4s for the "structure"

What's everyone think about this..........instead of using plywood for the shelf bases, use 2x4s? My neighbor has some built this way and swears by it

If you switch what's in the bins get some dry erase duct tape. I use that for the 9 bin shelves I built in our basement.

Just did 2x4s and some industrial flooring I got for free. I imagine 1/2 plywood should be fine if you add a 2x4 brace in the middle
 

bczygan

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Joined
Nov 4, 2009
Messages
22,002
Location
DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
Your FIRST task is to sorth through those bins and toss all the junk and stuff you don't use. Your second sort is for things you can sell.

What's left should fit in a lot less bins.

What you are describing is a lean to shed addition on the back of the garage.

Build it just like the garage, with 4" conc. slab, 2x4 framing and matching roofing and siding.

Make it 4' deep x a module of 2' or 4' wide.

Install sliding or bi-fold doors to open almost the entire face of it.

If the things you are storing aren't worth this level of construction, then they aren't worth keeping.

Bill
 
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D45

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Joined
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Location
NW INDIANA
Are you thinking a single shelf up high (suspended from ceiling) or floor to ceiling with multiple shelves?

I currently only have one single shelf, horrible waste of space and not too practical

The entire wall will have shelves, floor to ceiling.....the bottom shelf will start off higher off the ground, maybe 2 feet and go up from there

I should be able to get 6 shelves
 
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D45

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Messages
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Location
NW INDIANA
Thankfully I have a 1000 square foot second garage, so this main garage area can be used for long time storage

Starting pics:

IMG_20160321_210428821_zpsri8rbycs.jpg



IMG_20160321_210413504_zps2rbveupl.jpg



The "notch" area

IMG_20160321_210440887_zps24lsihha.jpg



I have over 4 feet of room behind the SUV, no concern for room when the 20" deep shelves are built

I emptied off the shelves and took all the brackets down last night

This week I will patch all the holes and get the back wall painted
 
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bczygan

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Messages
22,002
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DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
I have way too many storage bins in my basement (half) and sorting through them is a PITA

I want to build a shelving unit on the entire back side of the garage

2x3 or 2x4 for the structure?

I am thinking OSB for the shelving bases.........but what thickness?

Most of these bins just have seasonable decor and misc nonsense items in them, so they aren't really heavy, at all

The bins are the typical 18 gallon size:
24"L x 18"W x 15-1/2"T

I have the entire back side of the garage to work with:

9'9" Tall
16'11" Wide

I have a corner section of the garage with is notched out, for the closet near the foyer. This notch area in the garage is 20-1/4" deep, so I would like to build the shelves to come out near flush with this notch, the 1/4" I am not worried about

So, basically the entire shelving unit will be build to be 20" deep/wide, which will nicely accommodate the bins beings 18" deep/wide
20-1/4" Deep

OK,
I misunderstood.

There are heavy duty steel shelving units that can be had, that are used for warehouses. They are like your typical homeowner open steel shelving unit, but much heavier duty. Just find ones that are the right size.

Another option is standards and brackets. They make heavy duty ones with long enough brackets to accommodate deeper shelves like that. Properly anchored to the studs, the standards will accept reasonable weights.

But the cheapest and easiest solution will be a plywood grid made from 1/2" (5/8 or 3/4 for heavy loads or for the vertical dividers) plywood (NOT OSB or particle board or MDF).

Cut sheets of 1/2" plywood into 20" wide pieces for vertical dividers and for shelving. Place vertical dividers 30" on center and space shelves 18"apart. You could also use standards and shelf supports so all the shelves are adjustable.

Or like this, only bigger:
Building-the-laundry-unit-05-Seesaws-and-Sawhorses-on-Remodelaholic.jpg


Or make some of these, out of 1x4's, but with 1x2 cleats on both sides to support the shelves.
lowes_basementshelves_04.jpg


Or:
garageshelves_thumb.jpg


Get it?

Bill
 
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CNGsaves

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Sep 26, 2012
Messages
13,233
Location
KS and OK
OP . . . you could probably use several long sticks of Uni-Strut with threaded rods into rafters for basic setup . . . BUT . . . strengthen with vertical Uni-Struts or 2x4's underneath going down to ground.

I like Uni-Strut for all the options hanging stuff with all the attachment holes.

Do NOT use OSB . . . it fill fall apart over time. Go with 1/2" plywood.
 
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D45

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Tear down began.........I love the old hand-made welded shelf supports the PO homeowner made. Will definitely re-use them in my shop


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CNGsaves

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KS and OK
Before you get too far . . . . I see no Electrical Outlets ????? :dunno:

I'd cut a 4" strip all the way across over to Subpanel and put in bunch of outlets. Then patch up the sheetrock, and THEN do your painting !! ;)
 
OP
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D45

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There are outlets on the South wall and the North wall, no need to add any

No work gets done in this garage, just serves for parking and storage
 

snowman3

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Aug 12, 2014
Messages
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Location
Arizona
Stick with 2x4. Simple, cheap, bulk quantities.

I mostly agree, but built one once w/ 2x3 to give bigger openings on the shelf face. The 2x4 is 1" taller and the cross member across the front blocks the access from the front of the shelves. The space behind that front cross member is kind of dead space. Going w/ 2x3 gained another 1" of access and I was able to add one more row of shelves.

but yeah, the 2x3 was more hassle and not as strogn.
 

gnpenning

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I have more questions than answers.
Have you thought of tapering the shelves down to met the bump out? Making it a gradual taper with the rest being 24" to match your totes. Or you can have it 24" till 4' from the bump and drop to 20". If you want to get fancy you could even make a curved sweep 24" to 20". Be creative with it and have fun doing it.

I did mine with 2x4 and supports every 16". Cleat on the back and end walls with vertical supports every 8' Works great.
 

Empty Pockets

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Rural New York
Being naturally lazy, and at the time in the interest of time, I bought a number of plastic storage shelves. They are easy to take down and move, if needed, and are amply strong to hold up totes of the type you speak of.

Mine have holiday decorations, plumbing & electrical supplies as well as misc duplicate hand tools. The wife had home canned foods stored on two, as well.

As an added plus, they clean up easily
 

gahrajmahal

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Dec 12, 2008
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Cincinnati, Ohio
My son built a set just like Lenny the Lizard's corner unit. This he lived with for several years but found that stuff piled up in front of the L so he built an additional set forming a U shape. He left enough room to carry a tote out and room for both arms, so pretty narrow. He ended up with more usable shelf space, less tendency to fill up the isle way. One suggestion is after constructing the shelves on the floor and tipping it up into position, his basement floor had 3 inches of slope making the shelf all catywompus. So he went to the hardware store and bought 1/2" x 4 " carriage bolts, 1/2" nuts and 1/2" fender washers. Then using a 1/2" spade bit bore into the bottoms of the 2 x 4 legs. Run the nuts all the way to the head of the carriage bolt, slide on a washer, then slip it into the hole. Now when he tipped it up he could level it out by threading the nut out. Worked pretty slick and didn't cost too much. After he was all done he attached the tops of the legs to the floor joists above to keep them from tipping over should someone climb on them.
 

over40pirate

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Aug 31, 2012
Messages
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I put 3, 4' light rack shelves from Sam's Club, on wall of our garage. 18" wide.They were about $70 each. I liked, being able to change shelf heights if needed.
After that I found 24" wide ones on Craigs list, that were heavier built. Got 6, 8' sets, with shelving for $300.

In the picture against the far wall, next to elec. panel, are the 3, 4', 18" ones.
Then an isle, with 2, 8', 24" ones back to back, with a 4' 18" one on the end. The white bookcase, card table, and saw horses are usually not there.

There is a 2' open area, between the garage door and back to back shelves.
Car lives on other side of garage.

One thing nice with the lighter, 18" ones is they have 6 shelves.

The other hd, 8' ones are in the barn.

All the shelves are great to have.
 

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D45

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Just another reason I do not want the store bought, pre-made shelving units.........I do not want them sitting on the ground or close to the ground

Spackling and sanding starts today.........might even get in a coat or two of paint
 
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D45

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All patched and two coats of paint, turned out VERY well

Time to get some lumber and start construction next weekend

I also decided to re-spray the metal home fabbed shelf brackets, so I can reuse them in my other garage

Pics coming shortly
 

ford33

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Feb 26, 2011
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Chicago, IL. USA
I am designing something similar and looking forward to your build. If you wish to hide the bins from others and make the wall look nicer, I suggest hanging some sliding doors in front of the bins.
 
OP
D

D45

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I was able to get the two upper shelves done today

4" screws going into the studs and 3" screws connecting the 2x4s

The lower two shelves will hopefully be done tomorrow, and then I can start cutting plywood
 

Victorymike18

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Oct 1, 2010
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North NJ
Looking good so-far.

I did something similar a few years ago, with the main shelf being for a few tool chests. 2x4 turned vertically is nice and strong for the shelf supports, but you could certainly get away with 2x3 if you put ample vertical supports. I have a setup in the basement for lighter items and I used pallet wood (but with about 18" spans and it is solid enough that I could climb it.

 
OP
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D45

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All done......ended up putting 27 bins, three coolers and a bunch of misc stuff on the shelves

Even fabbed up a three tier side rack for smaller items near the door

4 sheets of over-sized 4x10, so there is only one "Seam" per shelf

I just used an air nailer with 2" finishing nails to speed up the process


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