Has anyone used it or had any experience with it at all? My local Sherwin Williams store tells me it's a very durable industrial finish and that the factories use it around here on their plant floors. I'd like to use it if possible since it's available locally but I want to find out a little more about it before I do. Here's their product information sheet on it: http://www.captiveaire.com/MANUALS/MAKEUPAIR/SUPPLYFANTRAINING/SWP/DP-B60VZ0070.pdf
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Sherwin Williams Tile-Clad High Solids
- Thread starter jcs_in_ky
- Start date
AlphaGarage
Well-known member
Note that it's only 56% solids. So if you want a 10 mil coat after the additives evap off you need to apply it at about 18 mils wet.
WolverineCoatings
Well-known member
Fred,
You would also have to apply that in 3 coats since the maximum film thickness per coat is 7 mils on that product! One of the drawback with applying multiple thin coats versus one thick coat (other than the obvious... more work) is that the thinner coats will just follow the pits and spalls in the concrete. The thicker coat will do a better job of filling those imperfections to give you a smoother and better looking floor! You'll want to be careful NOT to fill spalls and nicks with solventborne materials like this as the solvent can not evaporate fast enough and will get trapped in the coating!
You would also have to apply that in 3 coats since the maximum film thickness per coat is 7 mils on that product! One of the drawback with applying multiple thin coats versus one thick coat (other than the obvious... more work) is that the thinner coats will just follow the pits and spalls in the concrete. The thicker coat will do a better job of filling those imperfections to give you a smoother and better looking floor! You'll want to be careful NOT to fill spalls and nicks with solventborne materials like this as the solvent can not evaporate fast enough and will get trapped in the coating!
The guys that poured my slab didn't do the best job in the world and it's got more pits and spalls than it should have. Maybe I should try a different coating. Any recommendations on something that won't break the bank? It's a garage I work in, not just park cars in so it will have floor jacks, and things of that nature rolling across it. I also park my compact tractor in there from time to time and I was told by some people that the traction tires on the tractor are really hard on some finishes so I'll need it to hold up to that as well. Part of the building was originally done in a clear sealer (Black Bull) but it didn't hold up well at all, after two years some parts look like they were never coated. I'm going to make sure all of that is removed before going with a new finish.
WolverineCoatings
Well-known member
Hi jcs,
I know where you are coming from... BUT... (did you sense the 'BUT' was coming...lol)... You're going to get what you pay for in your garage. If anyone wants a 'cheap' solution then they have to expect 'cheap' results. Sealers like 'Black Bull' are very cheap... but (as you already know)... they don't last. Of course, everyone has a different idea of what 'breaks the bank'.
It sounds like your floor is going to take more abuse than the average garage floor. If you want it to last then you have to plan to use an above average coating system. It sounds like you're going to need a good 100% solids coating system. You will probably want to do 'above average' prep to ensure the best results.
In all, I think that if you want a floor that you don't have to re-do every couple of years that you may want to consider higher-end products that will give you a more resiliant solution.
I know where you are coming from... BUT... (did you sense the 'BUT' was coming...lol)... You're going to get what you pay for in your garage. If anyone wants a 'cheap' solution then they have to expect 'cheap' results. Sealers like 'Black Bull' are very cheap... but (as you already know)... they don't last. Of course, everyone has a different idea of what 'breaks the bank'.
It sounds like your floor is going to take more abuse than the average garage floor. If you want it to last then you have to plan to use an above average coating system. It sounds like you're going to need a good 100% solids coating system. You will probably want to do 'above average' prep to ensure the best results.
In all, I think that if you want a floor that you don't have to re-do every couple of years that you may want to consider higher-end products that will give you a more resiliant solution.
I've had some experience with cheap sealers or paints. The Black Bull was a waste of time for me and didn't even turn out to be economical because it took about 5 or 6 coats to get a decent finish and it was worn bad after one year. I used it on the advice of a local concrete guy that told me it was great stuff. I've also used some of the Behr Home Depot finishes. I did a concrete porch with the Behr stuff, after three years it's not showing any wear at all but I used the stuff for garage floors and all it has is light foot traffic on it. I know if I did my shop with that stuff it wouldn't last me long. I don't want to spend more than I have to, it's a working shop so I'm more concerned with protecting the floor than I am looks. I just want something that I won't be having to refinish every couple of years. The Sherwin Williams dealer was telling me they thought this Tile-Clad would probably hold up for 8 - 10 years for my uses but now after reading about it I don't think it will. I'm doing a fairly big shop, 2400 square feet. What's a good product that will be durable and work for my needs? What do you think I can plan on spending to do the job?
timgr
Well-known member
... I don't want to spend more than I have to, it's a working shop so I'm more concerned with protecting the floor than I am looks. I just want something that I won't be having to refinish every couple of years. ...
I'm pretty much in the same boat - I'd go with a solid color and some kind of anti-slip I suppose, though I haven't really decided on a supplier. My floor is pretty ugly now, and porous. I was considering the Devoe product with Shark Grip, but would go with Epoxy-Coat or Wolverine if I could justify either by cost, performance or ease-of-installation.