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Shims & replacing rotted wood

cdottrot

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 21, 2008
Messages
96
Location
Oshawa, ON
Ok, figured I'd make this a two-part question:

Part1
I got my new man-door mounted last night, door swings, closes, shuts/opens just fine. I used a rather large amount of shims. Bad thing?

door-shims.jpg



Part2
In the process of replacing the man-door, I had to replace some of the rotten framing. I poked with a screwdriver until the wood seemed 'normal', then used the sawzall to cut out the bad bit. Replaced with 2x4 PT, white silicone caulk between concrete and PT. The bottom plates are not really secured by anything beyond pressure and on the right, the rusty anchor.

Question: Is the blocking I used to attach back into the framing okay?

I picked up some shells and nails for the ram-set, so I'll try and get some of those into the plates.

new-plate-right.jpg

new-plate-left.jpg
 
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Zeke

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
17,176
Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Looks like you know what you are doing. Normally around here, we have to tie splices together with nail straps.

On the shims, whatever works. I carry pieces of plywood around for shimming more than 3/8ths " Nail through each stack.
 
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C

cdottrot

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 21, 2008
Messages
96
Location
Oshawa, ON
Using deck screws for just about everything, same difference? I know nails have a higher shear point, but didn't think the door frame would have to deal with much shear.
 
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