Shingle Underlayment options

[Doubled33]

I know there are Pro’s for staying with the Same manufacturer thus the below question.

Due to HOA regulations I need to use a Malarkey Shingle.

The local supply house has the Legacy shingles in stock but they have the lowest tier of underlayment. This is the secure start SG.

They however do have certainteed Diamond deck and roof runner.

I am in Hawaii so not many options.

Warranty aside which underlayment would you that are in the know choose for this?

Thanks

 

[geneg]

I know there are Pro’s for staying with the Same manufacturer thus the below question.

Due to HOA regulations I need to use a Malarkey Shingle.

The local supply house has the Legacy shingles in stock but they have the lowest tier of underlayment. This is the secure start SG.

They however do have certainteed Diamond deck and roof runner.

I am in Hawaii so not many options.

Warranty aside which underlayment would you that are in the know choose for this?

Thanks

Certainteen Diamond deck is a very good product. Look at the length of time it can be exposed vs the time for the cheaper brands. I'm assuming you don't need ice shield..

 

[The Cobbler]

Due to HOA regulations I need to use a Malarkey Shingle.

well, aint that just a hole lot of malarkey...

 

[firebirdparts]

Some roofing pros may do a better job on this, but in the old way, with tar paper, the underlayment didn't really do anything. You could omit it and the roof performed about the same. That's what I think. I would not worry about it very much if it was me. I would do whatever I could, I guess, to get the shingle guarantee to happen. That said, i have no plans personally to collect on a shingle guarantee. When my roof looks crappy, I'll just put on a new one.

Some houses have a "difficult" spot here and there due to fancy roof design. You may not have that problem. Obviously your weather in Hawaii is pretty consistent and again, not difficult.

 

[bcc0983]

Some roofing pros may do a better job on this, but in the old way, with tar paper, the underlayment didn't really do anything. You could omit it and the roof performed about the same. That's what I think. I would not worry about it very much if it was me. I would do whatever I could, I guess, to get the shingle guarantee to happen.

I am in the roofing business (in Texas) and the underlayment does do something. It is a vapor barrier to help protect the decking. It is not waterproof but it is necessary if you want your shingles to be under warranty with the manufacturer. If you omit tar paper or another type of underlayment under the shingles, it will be deemed an incorrect installation and won't be covered by their warranty. All bundles of shingles state the underlayment is required.

To the OP, I like the Malarkey shingles and I wouldn't have a problem using the Secure Start SG. It's a synthetic material (which I prefer) and it's tear resistant unlike the normal tar paper. Do make sure that you or the guys keep it pulled tight when nailing it down. I don't know your building codes out there but if you are wanting peace of mind besides the info you asked for, buy some GAF Storm Guard (or another ice/water shield) and install a strip along each eave and rake edge before installing your starter shingles and also in any valleys, around chimneys, pipe jacks, turtle vents, wind turbines, etc.... We also install it against any walls where the wall and roof touch. We apply it 6" up the wall and 6" on to the roof, then the synthetic felt, then step flashing as you are laying the shingles. It will probably cost you $300-$400 more by adding that step but it's waaaaay cheaper than having water damage (inside and outside) and having to get it repaired. If you don't add the Stormguard step but everything else is installed correctly, you should be fine. I just don't like call backs and it comes out of my profit on each job if the customer doesn't want to pay for that option and I'm ok with paying for it because it beats me having to go back later on for a leak. Good luck!

 

[Doubled33]

I am in the roofing business (in Texas) and the underlayment does do something. It is a vapor barrier to help protect the decking. It is not waterproof but it is necessary if you want your shingles to be under warranty with the manufacturer. If you omit tar paper or another type of underlayment under the shingles, it will be deemed an incorrect installation and won't be covered by their warranty. All bundles of shingles state the underlayment is required.

To the OP, I like the Malarkey shingles and I wouldn't have a problem using the Secure Start SG. It's a synthetic material (which I prefer) and it's tear resistant unlike the normal tar paper. Do make sure that you or the guys keep it pulled tight when nailing it down. I don't know your building codes out there but if you are wanting peace of mind besides the info you asked for, buy some GAF Storm Guard (or another ice/water shield) and install a strip along each eave and rake edge before installing your starter shingles and also in any valleys, around chimneys, pipe jacks, turtle vents, wind turbines, etc.... We also install it against any walls where the wall and roof touch. We apply it 6" up the wall and 6" on to the roof, then the synthetic felt, then step flashing as you are laying the shingles. It will probably cost you $300-$400 more by adding that step but it's waaaaay cheaper than having water damage (inside and outside) and having to get it repaired. If you don't add the Stormguard step but everything else is installed correctly, you should be fine. I just don't like call backs and it comes out of my profit on each job if the customer doesn't want to pay for that option and I'm ok with paying for it because it beats me having to go back later on for a leak. Good luck!

Thanks for the reply. Full disclosure I dabbled in this industry about 30 years ago and I know a lot has changed and am humbled to listen to replies here from those with current boots on the ground experience.

I have been toying with the ice and water at the edges as we don’t have snow but a lot of wind driven rain. I remember Grace Ultra was the good stuff to use but not sure anymore these days. Seems GAF is rare as hens teeth around here.

I do have multi story and some hips, valleys, etc…

The eves here are about 30” of overhang as my guess is they were built that way to shield the windows from getting water in the house while open while raining. A late 80’s house.

FWIW I am not a fan of the 1 1/2” drip edge that is readily available either. I had metal made for my CA house. I think I can find 3” and to your point that with GAF would be the ticket.

Thanks again.

 

[bcc0983]

Thanks for the reply. Full disclosure I dabbled in this industry about 30 years ago and I know a lot has changed and am humbled to listen to replies here from those with current boots on the ground experience.

I have been toying with the ice and water at the edges as we don’t have snow but a lot of wind driven rain. I remember Grace Ultra was the good stuff to use but not sure anymore these days. Seems GAF is rare as hens teeth around here.

I do have multi story and some hips, valleys, etc…

The eves here are about 30” of overhang as my guess is they were built that way to shield the windows from getting water in the house while open while raining. A late 80’s house.

FWIW I am not a fan of the 1 1/2” drip edge that is readily available either. I had metal made for my CA house. I think I can find 3” and to your point that with GAF would be the ticket.

Thanks again.

haha yes, some things have changed but Grace is still a good product. I've just always had good luck with GAF Stormguard but as long as you aren't using the old school "roll roofing" that is super thin, you will be fine. For the wind driven rains, the stormguard (or equivalent) is a no brainer. It's well worth it. And to your point about the 1.5" drip edge, I hate it too lol. I always use the 2" true size drip since it is 2x2 and not 1.5x1.5. If the house that I'm doing that day doesn't work with the 2" true size drip, I just have my gutter guy fab me what I need so that it looks and functions like it should. But you sound like you know more than the average person and you should be good to go.

Oh, one other thing. Depending on the pitch of your roof, if any part is under 2/12 and you are using shingles, you have to install stormguard (or equivalent) under the shingles since it is a low slope. If you don't want to do that then you will have to install modified bitumen (stick back, not torch down) for that area instead of shingles. The Secure Start SG can be installed on any pitch but normal 15# felt is used for slopes 3/12 - 6/12. If the slope is 7/12+, you need to use 30# felt or a synthetic felt like Secure Start SG. Again, I prefer the synthetics nowadays because 1 roll = 10 squares. 1 roll of 15# = 4 squares and 1 roll of 30# = 2 squares. Good luck on your project!

 

[mike93lx]

Ice and water along edges and on valleys is a good idea no matter how cold it gets. In areas that get real snow, you just go higher up.