Shop Air

[Cburg]

Hello everyone this is my first post but I have been in the shadows for awhile learning what I can.

I am starting to get my shop ready for my lift so I need to run power and lights first. That I can do. What I do need some help and ideas on is how to install my shop air lines. My 5hop compressor is located about 100ft from where my main work area is. I would like to install better that the 3/8" hoses I have connected together now. I would like to put in 3 drops and begin to use 1/2" hose from the drop to my tools. I am unsure what size and type of line to run back to the compressor.

What have you guys done?

Thanks in advance ...

Cburg

 

[TMcCay]

I used 2 of the 3/4" Rapid Air kits from Northern Tool. It was an easy install and I am very happy with it. It is also easy to add on to in the future if needed but I doubt that I will have to. My shop is a 40 x 40 and it has 2 reels along with 6 drops scattered about.

 

[cvairwerks]

Unless you are running a jack hammer or the like, 1/2" from the wall to the tool is nuclear overkill. Trying to drag that size hose around and control the tool will wear you out in minutes. Our reels at work are 3/8" and most guys hang a regular 1/4" hose from there to the tools.

 

[bad_idea]

1/2" threaded steel pipe (the black stuff at home depot) run from the compressor up along the ceiling. At each point you want a connection, use a tee point up w/ (2)90s to (2)45s to get it pointed down the wall. 90 at the bottom, pointed to the side to a dryer and an oiler, then a quick disconnect. That is the typical industrial setup. Simple but effective. Lots of pipe dope and crank the joints down.

You come out the top of the distribution line to keep the water from dropping down each leg.

 

[poppinjohnnies]

I used the 3/4 Rapid Air kit. There are some pictures of it on my build thread. Very easy to install, and it works great. I'll be ordering some more fittings to install extra air drops soon.

 

[zmotorsports]

I used the 1" AirCom system. I used 3 of their Pro Kits (100'/each) in my 40x50 shop from my 5HP/60-gallon compressor in the next bay. Great system and looks very professional. I am only using 3/8" air hoses though and save my 1/2" hose for when I am powering my 3/4" impact.

 

[sberry]

If you ae using steel pipe 1/2 is fine, if I was doing it again would likely use a 3/4 hose kit. As another note, use 3/4 hose to feed tools. 1/4 is for nailers.

 

[Stuart in MN]

If you go to the Rapidair website there are some design tools that may help you work out your sizing and layout, I would imagine other brands have similar information available as well. http://www.rapidairproducts.com/page/design-center

 

[matt_i]

Personally I like copper. I don't know how the price compares for 100' of it next to the other systems. The type M (thinner wall) is rated over 300psi. I would slope the pipe slightly over that run, let's just throw out 1/8" per foot if you can do it, but even 1/16" per foot would work if you use the air velocity to move it in the direction of flow. Then create a drip leg/drain point. I would use 3/4" OD copper for your 100' run. My preference is to solder with Sta-Brite #8 solder, has higher strength, no creep under high pressure, etc.

 

[albaran]

I installed a Rapidair system years ago and it has performed very well. It is economical and easier to install compared to metal systems. It is easier to make junctions with as well.

 

[BoostedOne]

I did 3/4" steel pipe in my shop. No complaints really. Yes, it was a pain in the ***, and yes I did end up renting a pipe threader from the rental yard, but that was now years ago and all i have is the benefits of doing it right the first time. Since I have two runs(down each side of the shop) I have run over 100 feet of pipe. Took a weekend.

 

[jfitz]

I also used the RapidAir 1/2 inch kit with 3 drops. One from the ceiling connected to my lift to run the air locks and the rolling air jack, 2nd halfway down the wall connected to a filter/regulated then a 3/8 reel, 3rd - straight off the compressor with 1/2 inch hose to use for filling tires or blow gun. Works great, easy to install. As usual, the 3/4 kit went on sale just after I bought/installed the 1/2 inch system!

 

[Streetbu]

3/4" pipe in what ever flavor (black iron, galvanized, aluminum, or copper) you want...drops at every outlet with the air coming out of the side, ball valves on the bottom for a quick easy drain. 3/8 hoses are plenty for what you're doing IMO...

 

[coljar]

Unless you are running a jack hammer or the like, 1/2" from the wall to the tool is nuclear overkill. Trying to drag that size hose around and control the tool will wear you out in minutes. Our reels at work are 3/8" and most guys hang a regular 1/4" hose from there to the tools.

I agree with all of this, but the part I put in bold is especially true. I have 3/4" black pipe with 1/2" drops and 3/8" and 1/4" hose reels.

 

[Dragfluid]

Obligatory post mentioning PCV in an airline thread.

 

[srr]

Personally I like copper. I don't know how the price compares for 100' of it next to the other systems. The type M (thinner wall) is rated over 300psi. I would slope the pipe slightly over that run, let's just throw out 1/8" per foot if you can do it, but even 1/16" per foot would work if you use the air velocity to move it in the direction of flow. Then create a drip leg/drain point. I would use 3/4" OD copper for your 100' run. My preference is to solder with Sta-Brite #8 solder, has higher strength, no creep under high pressure, etc.

Agree with this. Plus the fact that copper throws off heat much quicker and the water drops out sooner. Another benefit is it's easily modified, doesn't rust internally. I have a 30' run of 1" pipe from front to back with a 50' hose reel at each end, very convenient.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Obligatory post

The humor in that died years and years ago, I sure wish people would stop dredging it up.

 

[Sawdustmaker]

The July 2017 issue of Wood Magazine has a good article entitled "Plumb Your Shop for Air". They use 1/2" copper pipe and show all the necessary fitting and accessories. Also hints and dos and donts. Check it out.

 

[Cburg]

Hey, Thanks for all the input. I guess I am going to price some things out. I have a pipe threader, maybe I will look at black pipe first. I just want to know that my impact is not going to starve for air. There have been times when it has.

Thanks Again

Cburg

 

[RWorth]

Obligatory post mentioning PCV in an airline thread.

Hey Drag, does PVC hold the pressure, I thought about it but was skeptical. Did you use it in your shop?

 

[Stuart in MN]

Hey Drag, does PVC hold the pressure, I thought about it but was skeptical. Did you use it in your shop?

And this is why I hate when someone brings it up...the whole discussion gets derailed, and we have to start explaining for the umpteenth time that even though PVC has a pressure rating for use with water, it is not rated for use with compressed air.

 

[Rewind97]

What about a filter & regulator? Are the HF ones ok?

 

[BoostedOne]

I gave up on sh***y regulators.. seems like I get a year or two out of them and then they fail.
About 3 years ago I think I went with regulators from Coil Hose Pneumatics. I bought 4 of them. All still function like brand new, and have great flow. I have the 1/2" regulators and a 3/4" for what its worth.

 

[gungatim]

I did 1/2" copper, up to the ceiling with a main line running clear to the other end of the shop with drops every so often teeing off the main. all the pro's were mentioned, cooler, cheaper, no rust/flaking, easy to modify, etc. as far as moisture traps/drops, I don't really have them incorporated, if anything collects in the drops on the wall it just blows out when I first pressurize and blow out the line, but if you want just extend your stub with a Tee and add a drain valve below the quick connect...

also agree on the cheap regulators/filter setups. they leak, cups and seals blow out, etc. if you do go that route, buy a few of them for when you need to replace parts since you'll need them.

don't forget the rubber whip between compressor and solid line, most folks use a short hydraulic hose from the local farm store...

 

[Dragfluid]

Hey Drag, does PVC hold the pressure, I thought about it but was skeptical. Did you use it in your shop?

No, I used 1/2" black pipe. I was being a smart *** about the PVC, because it's been beat to death here. It's very unsafe for air.

Now hopefully if anyone else has any questions about that, there's a gazillion threads about it.

 

[Dragfluid]

I did 1/2" copper, up to the ceiling with a main line running clear to the other end of the shop with drops every so often teeing off the main. all the pro's were mentioned, cooler, cheaper, no rust/flaking, easy to modify, etc. as far as moisture traps/drops, I don't really have them incorporated, if anything collects in the drops on the wall it just blows out when I first pressurize and blow out the line, but if you want just extend your stub with a Tee and add a drain valve below the quick connect...

also agree on the cheap regulators/filter setups. they leak, cups and seals blow out, etc. if you do go that route, buy a few of them for when you need to replace parts since you'll need them.

don't forget the rubber whip between compressor and solid line, most folks use a short hydraulic hose from the local farm store...

A NAPA store can make one up for you too. Custom length.

 

[zmotorsports]

I gave up on sh***y regulators.. seems like I get a year or two out of them and then they fail.
About 3 years ago I think I went with regulators from Coil Hose Pneumatics. I bought 4 of them. All still function like brand new, and have great flow. I have the 1/2" regulators and a 3/4" for what its worth.

Another vote for Coil Hose brand. I installed a Coil Hose filer/regulator in my last shop about 8 years prior and it was still working perfectly when I sold the place in January. I installed the same thing in my new shop with high expectations that it would last as long if not longer than the last one.

 

[engineer2]

I vote for copper. BIP is OK, but gets rusty inside from the water. As you build your system consider water removal. Some here are fine with an aftercooler, but a refrigerated air dryer is the way to go unless you live in the desert.

 

[RWorth]

And this is why I hate when someone brings it up...the whole discussion gets derailed, and we have to start explaining for the umpteenth time that even though PVC has a pressure rating for use with water, it is not rated for use with compressed air.

Sorry I disrupted your extremely busy day.

 

[tapered-pin]

Hey, Thanks for all the input. I guess I am going to price some things out. I have a pipe threader, maybe I will look at black pipe first. I just want to know that my impact is not going to starve for air. There have been times when it has.

Thanks Again

Cburg

go with 3/4", I've got an impact wrench that under-performs on 1/2". No sense in limiting yourself, especially if there may ever be a situation where two people are using tools at the same time. (especially since the cost difference is SO negligible...)

 

[Cairo94507]

Sawdustmaker - Thanks for the article reference in the Woodworking magazine. I will read that to assist in designing my air layout. I begin my garage remodel on November 5th! I was going conceal the airlines in the walls, but after looking at that article may run them on the outside- I think the copper lines will look clean - and if I need to add/modify, it will be easier.

 

[engineer2]

Found asome good blog articles on compressed air systems. It's geared towards industrial users, but there is some good advice for home shops too.
http://www.fluidairedynamics.com/category/blog/

 

[sberry]

This last post makes a good point. Not every idea someone sees at work or in a large plant is practical or will work well at home and are often in needed at best. One post above eluded to the fact that water may simply get blown along in a basic system which is as good a way to get rid of it as any.
I made a basic routing change in my system that was allowing some water to blow along, after that none and don't even have a drip leg before these 2 regs, the filter would be the catcher for any liquid that made it that far. The one place on a long system with multiple taps that I do want a valve is ahead of the reg. Pic 3 shows that.

 

[Richard Cranium]

Some great advise here.

 

[66HertzClone]

Sorry I disrupted your extremely busy day.

Here are several places that can answer your question, after the first couple I think you will see why you received the response you did. This subject here very precisely defines the term "beating a dead horse".

http://www.hoseandfittingsetc.com/o...pe-of-pipe-should-i-use-for-my-air-compressor

http://www.usplastic.com/knowledgebase/article.aspx?contentkey=787

http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/archive/index.php?t-10239.html

One from here:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60109

http://www.lni.wa.gov/safety/hazardalerts/902.asp

https://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html


The sad thing is that some despite all the evidence against using it still do.

 

[handymancanfixit]

I used 2 of the 3/4 RapidAir kits. They are in stock at my local Northern Tool. Use 3/4 and you know that most likely you will never have to worry about having enough volumetric flow capacity in your lines.

 

[4 FN 27]

Found asome good blog articles on compressed air systems. It's geared towards industrial users, but there is some good advice for home shops too.
http://www.fluidairedynamics.com/category/blog/

Great link!!! Lots of topics covered.

I am old school and ran everything in Copper. 1 inch Mains looped around the room(s) and 1/2 inch drops and drain legs.

Drops go up first and then down. Drains in the corners and on legs where moisture might be a problem based on volume (Sand Blaster/Plasma Cutter).

I like the copper because I can cut in anywhere and drop a line with minimal effort. Most of the Copper I used and all the fittings came from a Shop I demo'ed about 20 years ago. Glad I hung onto all that stuff. I still have stuff left.

 

[moparfreak]

For all those asking for the so-called evidence rather than taking someone for their word / advise from a message on a forum, I randomly came across this when I was looking at wooden sign ideas...fast forward to ~3:35.

I don't want to bring this topic back up or rehash any of it, but I think it's an important reference, and I would say any future questions about that particular topic of airline construction & materials should just be answered w/ this video and then close the thread.

 

[gungatim]

I've said before, pvc gets brittle with age. seen too many plumbing setups crack and fail just by looking at them. and that's just with 60psi of water...

also notice he wasn't wearing safety glasses...I don't always when I should, but air nailing hard aged pallet wood I've had many times where an air nail bounces or ricochet's or whatever failing to shoot through the wood. I always wear safety glasses when using an air nailer. he's lucky...

that is all.

 

[Lelandwelds]

I have a Rigid pipe threader. I have done and would use 3/4 black pipe for oxyfuel installs. No water and the copper/acetylene thing isnt worth any risk.

For compressed air, I am severely tempted by pex with the Milwaukee tool. I still want the loops around the shop, slope for lines, and hydraulic hose to flex from compressor. I think I would ditch the exit from the top of the loop for each drop. Water moves around. I think it best to get it out rather than hope to trap it in part of the system.

Let me say it again: drain it to a trap and dump it.