Shop Build

[jurickk]

Hi guys, first post here, so go easy on me!
I have very quickly grown out of my 2-car garage/shop and have been working on a solution to this problem for the past 6 months or so. I've decided that I need to build in order to have room for all of the appliance type tools I have acquired (table saw, bandsaw, drill press, lathe, miter saw, router table, bench sanders, bench grinders, yada yada yada). Unfortunately, I have some pretty major constraints on my hands. Building permits are basically out of the question. I live in a flood plain and in order to just apply for a building permit I have about $500 in costs wrapped up. Given this, I cannot have a permanent foundation and I have to keep it under 300 sq ft. Anything else is fair game.
I've already designed my shop in sketchup, minus windows and doors. It will be 12x24 with 2x4 studs 16" OC, 2x10 floor joists 16" OC and 2x6 rafters 16" OC. I've ran into some design issues though that I would like input on.
First, I started modeling with the concrete deck piers that you can buy at HD. Initially these seemed great, but I am very concerned about settling over time.

So, I've been thinking about sinking Quikrete tubes 3 ft deep and using some wet set anchor brackets to hold everything firmly in place. The problem is that I cannot find any anchor brackets that are designed to hold a 2x10. So, this leads to my first question. Do they make 2x10 anchor brackets? Based on the assumption that they don't, should I modify my plan to double up the 2x10s on the outside edges and down the middle? Even if I were to do so, I would still be a half inch short for one of the 4x4 anchor brackets like the one shown below. So really just need thoughts on the best way to accomplish this.

On to the next issue. Hopefully this one is easier. After building my rafters, I'm left with a gap between the siding and roof. In the screenshot it is most notably seen on the far right. How is this normally filled? Just covered up with the sopheting(spelling?)?

Next, hopefully also very easy, I would like an opinion on the structural integrity of my rafter design. I built them this way to get me the most ceiling height possible. The grey part will be OSB and it goes on either side to prevent the rafter from failing outward. A 2x4 will run in between the sheets of OSB along the bottom, mostly so I have something to screw interior wall paneling to. Screenshots below.

For reference, this is where the shop will live when done (taken while groundhog hunting last spring, and yes I got him! ). If you can visualize it, it will run diagonal of the house (I'm on the roof of the house) facing the deck and the lake.

Here is the Google Drive link to the SketchUp drawing. Feel free to use for your own purposes! Just don't be a jerk and try to sell it.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6M7ZbHqWMBXSmNSaXlRUXcwY2M/view?usp=sharing

And here is a google drive link to a PDF of a Home Depot shopping cart of the items I think I am going to need.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6M7ZbHqWMBXbkdqb0k3Ti01dWs/view?usp=sharing

All in all I am hoping to keep my build under $3500, but we'll see what happens.
Thanks in advance for any opinions!

 

[jurickk]

Also, for the interior walls, I am considering expanding on this guys idea of using pallet wood. I think it would make for a pretty sweet look in a workshop. I have plenty of time to think about this though as my build will not even start until spring.

 

[jurickk]

To cover the plywood floor, I was thinking about seeing if I could source some used linoleum flooring from craigslist. I don't really need anything fancy, just to keep a smooth surface that is more resistant to wear than plywood. Thoughts? I know there is a whole flooring section of the forum, but this is on wood, so a little different.

 

[jurickk]

Bumping this to see if I can get some new eyes on it.

 

[Model A Fan]

I really like your idea for pallet walls. Is there an easy way to remove the boards from pallets without ripping each nail out? It looks like he stained the wall or something.

 

[havnfun]

I recently replaced the floor joists on my 8 X 12 storage building. The building was supported at the four corners by concrete blocks. The blocks were continually sinking and required re-leveling just about every year. I replaced the blocks with two 6x6-12 feet long. The soil under the building is clay. That was about 3 years ago and I have yet to re-level the building. The building is also easier to move. I understand that your building is larger but you may want to consider this method.
My personal preference would be to use 1/2 inch plywood instead of OSB to tie the 2x6s together. I would use glue and staples or nails. I am in Northern Michigan and have to contend with heavy snow loads. Good luck with your build.

 

[astroracer]

Before you sink your footings find out what the frost depth requirement is in Fort Wayne. I am near Flint and our requirement is at least 42". I usually go 46" just to be safe.
The opening at the top of your walls, under the roof is normal. Use that space to allow air circulation up through your rafters to the ridge vent.
I have an OSB floor in my machine shop. I painted it with as much gray floor enamel as it would absorb. 6 gallons I think. It's been like that since '92 with no appreciable wear.
You are using a marine grade plywood for the floor, right?
Mark

 

[diypolebarns]

We always design our buildings for the Fort Wayne area with footers set at 48" deep. On your size building the footer diameter could probably be as small as 8", but we always figure at 12".

 

[jurickk]

I really like your idea for pallet walls. Is there an easy way to remove the boards from pallets without ripping each nail out? It looks like he stained the wall or something.

This will be the difficult part. I'm thinking I will use the sawzall to cut the nails at the joint and hopefully then I can drive them out with a hammer and a nail set from the bottom. He did stain his and I will likely do the same.

I recently replaced the floor joists on my 8 X 12 storage building. The building was supported at the four corners by concrete blocks. The blocks were continually sinking and required re-leveling just about every year. I replaced the blocks with two 6x6-12 feet long. The soil under the building is clay. That was about 3 years ago and I have yet to re-level the building. The building is also easier to move. I understand that your building is larger but you may want to consider this method.
My personal preference would be to use 1/2 inch plywood instead of OSB to tie the 2x6s together. I would use glue and staples or nails. I am in Northern Michigan and have to contend with heavy snow loads. Good luck with your build.

Thanks. I'm on very sandy soil so I am nervous about this approach. With the size of the building, I have to do it right the first time because there won't be much going back when I am done.

Before you sink your footings find out what the frost depth requirement is in Fort Wayne. I am near Flint and our requirement is at least 42". I usually go 46" just to be safe.
The opening at the top of your walls, under the roof is normal. Use that space to allow air circulation up through your rafters to the ridge vent.
I have an OSB floor in my machine shop. I painted it with as much gray floor enamel as it would absorb. 6 gallons I think. It's been like that since '92 with no appreciable wear.
You are using a marine grade plywood for the floor, right?
Mark

That is kind of what I thought the space would be used for. So I plan to run my ceiling paneling up to where the rafters go flat on the underside and I want to insulate the ceiling. So I guess I should put a base ceiling down, then insulation, and then my actual ceiling? Hard to explain in text, I will try to draw it up. Based on other comments, I will probably go for 48".

We always design our buildings for the Fort Wayne area with footers set at 48" deep. On your size building the footer diameter could probably be as small as 8", but we always figure at 12".

Ok, easy enough to go another foot to my original plan. How about my current spacing? Think the number of supports are appropriate for the building size? I have no architectural training so I'm kind of shooting from the hip and doing everything based on what seems normal

 

[astroracer]

There are foam panels at the box stores you can use to maintain the roof circulation with bat insulation under those. They are cheap and will work fine for your application.
Less then 2 bucks at Home Depot.

 

[venturesomerite]

The easiest way I have found to reuse pallet wood is to use a circ saw to rip just inside of the two outside nail lines, and just a pry bar to wiggle it loose in the middle, then you just have to bump out two nails. Much easier than trying to get them all out.

 

[jurickk]

There are foam panels at the box stores you can use to maintain the roof circulation with bat insulation under those. They are cheap and will work fine for your application.
Less then 2 bucks at Home Depot.

Yep, that solves my problem exactly! It's a nice reassurance that you are planning properly when a product exists to solve a problem you are working on. I also like your earlier idea about the floor enamel and I was planning on using pressure treated ply for the floor.

The easiest way I have found to reuse pallet wood is to use a circ saw to rip just inside of the two outside nail lines, and just a pry bar to wiggle it loose in the middle, then you just have to bump out two nails. Much easier than trying to get them all out.

Not a bad idea, will likely need to cut the 2 inches on the edge off anyway. Then I might just cut the center nails with the sawzall and call it good enough with the nail heads left in the plank.

 

[rburke65]

Interior walls as pictured above would be really nice looking. I would worry about pounding out the cut off nails. Just leave the nail heads there for the rustic look.

 

[DC73]

I built a building very similar to the one you are planning many years ago at another house. To place the building where I needed it to be, required that I build it as a portable structure.

I built the building on three skids comprised of 3 2x10's for each skid. Laid them on three rows of concrete blocks leveled and set in sand after compacting the soil. We have a clay soil and I never had any issues with settling. I framed the floor on top of the skids. This put the floor up a bit higher so I used the concrete piers you show to build a small deck with a ramp up to a landing in front of the door.

The skids, all floor and deck framing were done with pressure treated lumber.

For the roof I went with a Gambrel roof. This barn style roof gave me much more attic space for storage and the trusses were very easy to build. I insulated under the roof using vent channels, a continuous ridge vent and soffit vents to keep air flowing just under the roof. This gave me insulated attic storage that was dust free after I paneled the attic area with OSB.

The building was still in great shape when I sold the house 20 years or so later.

If you double up your 2x10s for the 4x4 brackets, sandwich a piece of 1/2" pressure treated plywood between them so you'll end up with the same dimension as a normal 4x4.

Here's a pic of the building I built:

DC

 

[Handyfarmer]

I would recommend a concrete slab for a floor, unless there a major problem with concrete, (few weight concerns and not a fire danger),