Shop ceiling

[Kismetfarmer]

I need a little advice. I am looking to finish the ceiling in my shop using 16 foot 1x10 pine boards nailed perpendicular to the joists that are set on 2 ft centers.

I am wondering if the boards will noticeably deflect or sag in between the joists.

I am considering 1x10 pine because it is free.

 

[pattenp]

You may have spots where the board edges don't line up with each other. It would be great if you have a router to tongue and groove the boards.

 

[Kismetfarmer]

You may have spots where the board edges don't line up with each other. It would be great if you have a router to tongue and groove the boards.

That would be about 1600 ft of tongue and 1600 ft of groove. I wonder what it would cost to have this done in a woodworking shop? Any estimates?

 

[nehog]

You may have spots where the board edges don't line up with each other. It would be great if you have a router to tongue and groove the boards.

You can also get a shaper to use in a table saw to do T&G on boards. I've one from Sears (bit old) and IIRC they still sell them.

 

[pattenp]

I've got one of those shaper blades for the table saw that has the changeable cutters. It's kinda scary to use. The thing I don't like about it is the slow cutter speed compared to a router.

You can also get a shaper to use in a table saw to do T&G on boards. I've one from Sears (bit old) and IIRC they still sell them.

 

[pattenp]

Use a biscuit joiner for spots centered between joist.

That would be about 1600 ft of tongue and 1600 ft of groove. I wonder what it would cost to have this done in a woodworking shop? Any estimates?

 

[1949 caddyman]

No, they will not sag.

 

[jkwilson]

They probably won't sag, but they may warp.

Tongue and groove would give you a much nicer looking ceiling. You can do it with a router pretty easily. Even if you don't T&G, you may need to run them through a jointer to get straight edges on them so they'll **** up against each other without gaps. They can look straight on the floor, but when you **** them they can look terrible. Some is just about how picky you are though.

If it is freshly cut, it would be a good idea to let it sit in a stack in the garage for 6 months or so to get some of the shrinking done before you nail it.

I'd also consider paint or polyurethane to help with moisture effects and to keep it cleaner.

 

[Kismetfarmer]

Use a biscuit joiner for spots centered between joist.

If my math is right that would be about 900 biscuits. I guess I better get to baking!

 

[bazzateer]

Must be easier and quicker to just cut the planks so they join/**** to the next one across a joist. No biccies required then.

 

[Kismetfarmer]

Must be easier and quicker to just cut the planks so they join/**** to the next one across a joist. No biccies required then.

Baz

It's not the ends of the boards that I am concerned with as they will meet at the joists. I'm worried what happens to the 22 1/2 inches between the joists.

 

[glmron]

Probably won't sag as long as you fasten them on each joist, I would use deck screws to fasten them, that way if you get one that does sag or warp you can replace it easier. I would also stagger them lengthwise. Install them with the "cup" side of the board up.

 

[jhasafety1]

How about running a groove on each edge with your table saw and cutting a spline that would go in each joint. you could apply the spline to each board as it goes up and the next groove would match up. Would be much less work than working them up with a traditional T&G.

 

[Cobra6]

That would be about 1600 ft of tongue and 1600 ft of groove. I wonder what it would cost to have this done in a woodworking shop? Any estimates?

If you have to pay someone to do that part, it will be cost prohibitive to do the ceiling with that wood.