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Dick in Wisconsin

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 3, 2012
Messages
3,048
Location
Shawano, Wisconsin
Good question! Yesterday we finished the ceiling of my 1000sf race shop.

I used "Dura Panel" white steel panels from Menards. This is my second project using white steel from Menards.

First project: Ceiling of the attached garage. Used "Pro-Rib" panels that are 0.0165" thick. The really heavy stuff from Menards is 0.18" thick. The existing trusses were 24" on center. Because the first four or five feet of the garage was already sheet rocked, taped, and sprayed to meet fire-code the 16' in-stock panel actually fit perfectly. They were heavy, not easy to cut, but only 16' long. We put a 1" white screw with gasket in on every truss in the center of every panel. There was unfaced batt insulation between the trusses being held up with chicken wire. NOT ME! That is the way we bought the house. Looks very nice. Picture posted below.

Second project: Ceiling of the 1000sf race shop. My contractor for the shop, another neighbor, texted me and said that Menards had the steel on sale. So I went to Menards and it was the 0.014" thick "Dura-Panel". Same design, colors, cut to 1" lengths, etc. at the "Pro-Rib" ... only thinner which means LIGHTER which means easier to put up 19' and 22' pieces and also less expensive! The contractor had used this in the past on some projects. He put in the 1" screws on every other truss (24" on center), which made me scratch my head a little bit ... but he said, "if you think it sags we can put more screws in". When done, I think it looks fine.

I have a 10' ceiling and half the shop has scissor trusses for a possible, potential, future lift. (If I was doing this all over again, I would have gone with a 9' ceiling.) Used two 10' ladders and a section of scaffolding with a 6" ladder on top of it. It took three of us to get the panels up ... contractor and his #1 guy each took an end and I held up the middle. On the flat portion of the ceiling there is an opening for an attic ladder so two of the pieces had to have a section cut out weakening the respective panels. So they called in a fourth guy to help with that, otherwise we might have kinked one or both of those panels.

It took a day and half to get all the J-channel up, the ceiling up, cutouts around the gas line and two PVC piles for the boiler, cutouts for the attic ladder, ends trimmed to fit (Menards cuts only to 1" increments), and the last piece cut to fit.

I like it. Looks very nice. Probably much cheaper and less work than say drywall. Would do it again.
 

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djb25

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2009
Messages
54
Location
North Central PA
Im currently putting up 2" foil faced rigid foam panels for the ceiling in my detached garage. They're rated at something like R-13. What's really great about them is the fact that you end up with a continuous thermal break for the trusses. It really reduces the thermal bridging from the trusses, which is great in a cold climate.

My attached garage has 1.5" foam boards faced with some sort of fiberglass on each side. I actually prefer that material to the foil faced panels, as it is stronger. The foil is fairly easy to poke holes into. The fiberglass material is quite a bit sturdier.

I intend to add blown insulation in both garages this year, but honestly, even the 1.5" panels in the attached garage have been excellent insulation. They're rated around R-9, but the continuous layer of insulation really ends up doing much more than r-9 fiberglass ever would.

I've even been considering putting a continuous layer of foam board on the inside walls, over R-19 fiberglass batts, then covering everything with OSB.
 
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