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Shop Floor Options w/ Moisture Problem

J

Jayhawk_Aviator

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 2, 2015
Messages
123
Hi All,

My first post....I am new to this forum and really loving it.

My questions is this. I bought a new home that has a shop (40x50 pole barn with 6" concrete slab) that I want to fix up. It was built around 2000, and I'm fairly certain it did not have a vapor barrier under the concrete. It also looks like it has a sealer of some type on the concrete.

I think I have a bit of a problem with moisture coming through the slab. I'd like to:
1) Seal the slab so no more moisture comes through. I've heard that they have epoxy vapor barriers now that you can apply to the top to do this? I searched and found Rustoleum Topside Vapor Barrier (TVB) that is supposedly for this purpose. That said, I talked to Sherwin Williams about their "Aqua Armor". They told me you really can't have an epoxy moisture barrier because the moisture would come up through the slab, carry salts in the concerte to the top, get stopped by the epoxy, then bubble it or chip off. Does anyone know if these work, and if so, do you know of one that works?
2) For prep work, I assume I need to rent a diamond grinder to grind the floor. What do people do around the edges or hard to reach spots where the big machine can't get?
3) Assuming a vapor barrier works, I assume I can apply an epoxy coatin on top of that? I want something that is high gloss....hopefully easy to wipe off. I don't like the speckled look, as that seems to easy to lose screws.
4) Depending on what epoxy used, do I need a separate high gloss sealer?

I have 2000 square feet, so I am looking for something affordable that is durable and looks good.

Thanks,
Scott
 
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L

LegacyIndustrial

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Jun 7, 2010
Messages
7,995
Location
deerfield, IL
Scott:
What makes you think you have a moisture problem?
Yes, these products if installed correctly have a tenacious grip to the concrete and will hold back much more than epoxy on it's own.

Yes, it is imperative that you diamond grind. Use a diamabrush hand tool for the corners.

You can follow-up this initial priming coat with 100% solids epoxy and then a topcoat of pigmented aliphatic urethane for a high-gloss floor. The urethane gives you a high gloss that lasts far longer than the epoxy on it's own.

Lastly, source all your materials from one vendor for best results.
 
OP
J

Jayhawk_Aviator

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 2, 2015
Messages
123
Is the primer the same as a moisture vapor barrier? Can you point me to specific products to use?

I've seen some really poor floors that had moisture problems. Main reason I want a moisture barrier is that I don;t want to risk spending a lot of time / money on an epoxy floor then to have it ruined by moisutre. Seems like a moisture barrier is cheap insurance.
 
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G

Garage Flooring

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Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
Jayhawk_Aviator said:
Hi All,

My first post....I am new to this forum and really loving it.

My questions is this. I bought a new home that has a shop (40x50 pole barn with 6" concrete slab) that I want to fix up. It was built around 2000, and I'm fairly certain it did not have a vapor barrier under the concrete. It also looks like it has a sealer of some type on the concrete.

I think I have a bit of a problem with moisture coming through the slab. I'd like to:
1) Seal the slab so no more moisture comes through. I've heard that they have epoxy vapor barriers now that you can apply to the top to do this? I searched and found Rustoleum Topside Vapor Barrier (TVB) that is supposedly for this purpose. That said, I talked to Sherwin Williams about their "Aqua Armor". They told me you really can't have an epoxy moisture barrier because the moisture would come up through the slab, carry salts in the concerte to the top, get stopped by the epoxy, then bubble it or chip off. Does anyone know if these work, and if so, do you know of one that works?
2) For prep work, I assume I need to rent a diamond grinder to grind the floor. What do people do around the edges or hard to reach spots where the big machine can't get?
3) Assuming a vapor barrier works, I assume I can apply an epoxy coatin on top of that? I want something that is high gloss....hopefully easy to wipe off. I don't like the speckled look, as that seems to easy to lose screws.
4) Depending on what epoxy used, do I need a separate high gloss sealer?

I have 2000 square feet, so I am looking for something affordable that is durable and looks good.

Thanks,
Scott
Click to expand...

Good Morning!

Moisture problems are frustrating! What is more frustrating is the fix is not always as easy as you would like -- but often it is. I have seen a lot of people throw good money after bad with epoxy vapor barriers based on overstated claims.

Regardless of who you buy your vapor barrier from, I would like to see you do a few things first. Have a look at all the details here: http://www.garageflooringllc.com/vapor-barrier/ . You MUST get these details on whatever product you buy.

Second, you stated that you 'think' you have a moisture problem. Not my favorite test, but just for starters, tape 3 or 4 12" squares of poly to the floor using duct tape. Check and see if you have any condensation on the inside after 24 hours. No condensation is certainly not conclusive, but if there is condensation, hire a professional to do a moisture test and see if your project falls within the limits of the moisture barrier you are considering. On the plastic test note if the condensation is on top or inside the plastic.

Don't jump at anything yet. Take some time, find out exactly what you are up against and get it fixed right.
 
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