Shop framing hanging off slab end..pics..thoughts?

[getbent4x4]

Okay, framing near door is hanging off slab. Other than sliding some plate steel under this section, any other fixes or ideas? I'm going to talk to the crew tomorrow.

closeup of right door post

left door post

closeup of left door post

thoughts? Concrete under those front door posts concern me the most.

 

[Junkman]

Something is out of square... either the slab or the steel work. Was the slab checked for square after it was poured? If not, then you need to dig down and pour additional footings. If the building inspector sees this, he will in all probability issue a stop work order until it is properly fixed. I ran into the same thing with my home foundation. They poured additional footings to fix the problem, and tied them into the original footing. then they were allowed to continue to set forms and pour the walls. A mistake like this can haunt you forever, if the building is out of square. Remember, the people erecting the building will be gone when it is finished, but you will have to live with the problem for years to come. Insist that it be properly fixed now, before they go any further. If they balk, then call the inspectors and they will force the contractor to make it right.

 

[nehog]

There's more WTF in those pictures than I've seen in a long time. The entire slab looks like it was done by the three stooges. Poor finish on the cement work, poor forming of the slab, failure to square things, and in the third picture, am I looking at the bolts sitting in some kind of cut-out in the slab?

The only think I see that is not a complete CF is the strap to square the steel--that's common to do. Once all the framing is up, then the strap can come off and you can sheet it.

There is no way I'd accept this job.

 

[lotsoftools]

Let's hope the crew just got to where they needed to quit for the day and are going to come back and fix it right tomorrow.

 

[getbent4x4]

The cut out would be where the slab flows into the parking pad. Rebar was tied in, no crack control joint..lol. Good or not I dunno.

 

[cj7365]

Looks like to me that the anchor bolts are off, if you look at the door frames on your photo looks like the top is closer than the bottom.

I would definitely bring this up in the morning

the crew that is erecting the steel bldg. are they the same crew (company) that did the concrete work.

Before they poured my slab for my steel bldg. I was out there measuring every single anchor bolt position.

 

[ADSR]

Fill it up with some expanding grout and call it a day.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

The gap at the top of the frame is, in my limited metal building experience, fairly normal. Pulling the building with a strap is quite normal. You assemble a metal building frame loose, you don't tighten it, then, you use straps, chains, come-a-longs, etc. to pull the building till the columns are vertical. After that, some will tighten the frame up then sheet, some will sheet and then tighten. Sheeting adds much strength to the building, if it doesn't have any X bracing rods or cables, its known as a diaphragm braced building and the sheetmetal is essential to the building's strength.

Fill it up with some expanding grout and call it a day.

is pretty good advise if you ask me.

The columns not fitting at the taper for the door way, well, thats poor cement work, but mine was the opposite of that, the taper doesn't reach back to the frame and it makes the door hit at the ends first and the middle last or not at all.

Charles

 

[rsanter]

Brasher the building, the opening, and the slab for square and that they are to design dimensions.
If all is good then install grout in that gap to help support the steel and for a kore finished look.

If something is off and or really out of square then start talking to the people about how they will fix it. You haven't paid them all their money have you?

Bob

 

[HAY YOU]

Instead of commenting on who does or doesn’t speak English, after all you hired them. I’d say it was the difference between a union & non-union job. Get out there with a whiskey stick & see if it’s plumb. If it is I’d use grout to take care of it.

 

[readhead]

The concrete work isn't the best. I am suprised that they poured the apron with the floor. As long as the dimensions check out I would use nonshrink grout under the posts. Most steel is fabed with a 1/2" gap standard per AISC. Do you know if the slab was shot for level? Where are you located?

 

[HAY YOU]

So you're saying a team of overpaid alcoholics could pour a better slab?

No this is what I said.

Instead of commenting on who does or doesn’t speak English, after all you hired them. I’d say it was the difference between a union & non-union job. Get out there with a whiskey stick & see if it’s plumb. If it is I’d use grout to take care of it.

 

[Steve83]

It looks like the cement finisher wasn't paying close attention to the detail around those anchor bolts, but it's nothing serious. As has been said already, a little mortar will take care of it, and that's standard practice on all steel buildings anyway. All that matters right now is that the door opening is SQUARE. Both jambs should be perfectly plumb (sight along the outer edge of one and make sure the other is parallel), and they should have within 1/2" the same measurement across the door opening anywhere you check.

Same for the apparent gap in the structure (NBD), and the ratchet strap staying the structure until the wall sheeting goes on. It's just a precaution against high winds damaging the slab by pulling the beams like levers.

I hope you're not out there strutting around like a nervous hen while these guys are trying to work - it's a surefire way to end up with a substandard job & pissed off workers. Take all the pics you want when they're not around, and maybe a FEW when they are, but just assume they know what they're doing, like you did when you hired them.

And if you didn't pay for full insulation, you SHOULD. Including the foam fillers along the tops of the wall sheets, and where the roof sheets rest on the gutter purlins.

I assume they're gonna make the control cuts in the slab with a saw later.

 

[Twiggss]

No this is what I said.

Instead of commenting on who does or doesn’t speak English, after all you hired them. I’d say it was the difference between a union & non-union job. Get out there with a whiskey stick & see if it’s plumb. If it is I’d use grout to take care of it.

So the drunk union guys did this cluster f*ck of a job?

Nah couldn't be, if it was they would still be in the picture being held up by shovels while the 1 apprentice did the whole job.

 

[HAY YOU]

To help with the confusion a whiskey stick is a level. There is a very small percentage of Union workers in the America work force, yet it upsets people. Instead of getting mad about someone else’s wages, benefits & conditions do something to help your families & prosper.

 

[getbent4x4]

So far everything is coming out straight, sides and roof are on. Steel supply yard that did the job now wants me to go 50/50 with him on the permit ($100) and ($280) two loads of sand for slab base.

This isn't his first building, I think someone is **** hurt construction costs went up since original quote in February.

 

[IHI]

So far everything is coming out straight, sides and roof are on. Steel supply yard that did the job now wants me to go 50/50 with him on the permit ($100) and ($280) two loads of sand for slab base.

This isn't his first building, I think someone is **** hurt construction costs went up since original quote in February.

This is his fault for not talking to you first before starting and assuming you were going to make up the difference. We dealt with this early in my business and I immediately took steps to protect myself there after.

Bid good for 30 days
Due to market fluctuations any job bid over 30 days will be rebid

This hit soo many roofers hard, and homeowners too back when the oil inflation and price of everything with petrolieum in it skyrocketed. We used to buy roofing materials at $45/sq...and literally in one day my cost went to $90. If you think I'm eating the difference to do work on your home due to things outside of my control, your crazy. Would be like the company you work for saying hey, we're going to cut your wages in half because we have a certain profit margin we need to stay in business and due to materials we buy doubling in price, the only way to keep our PM% is to cut your wages in half.

Nobody ever thinks about it like that, only how bad they can try to screw a guy trying to make a living out of money.

 

[getbent4x4]

I'm left with a cut out and a man door frame slid in, but water can roll right down the side of the sheeting in around the door. Only thing I can think of is a lot of caulk?

Not sure if this is typical? Guess I might need pics.

 

[Scott K]

So you're saying a team of overpaid alcoholics could pour a better slab?

They could if they had enough laborers to watch, and some shovels to lean on.

 

[captaindiode]

You need some type of flashing to slip up behind the siding and then turn out over the door frame and back down - look up "Z" flashing. Then the "J" trim fits on top of that to recieve the bottom of the siding. The "J" goes down the sides of the door frame as well.

 

[Rentawrench]

Instead of commenting on who does or doesn’t speak English, after all you hired them. I’d say it was the difference between a union & non-union job. Get out there with a whiskey stick & see if it’s plumb. If it is I’d use grout to take care of it.

The concrete work isn't the best. I am suprised that they poured the apron with the floor. As long as the dimensions check out I would use nonshrink grout under the posts. Most steel is fabed with a 1/2" gap standard per AISC. Do you know if the slab was shot for level? Where are you located?

Donot use caulk Fill it in with grout ,it will need it for strenght on the pillers, an some flashing as "Captain" said

 

[getbent4x4]

You need some type of flashing to slip up behind the siding and then turn out over the door frame and back down - look up "Z" flashing. Then the "J" trim fits on top of that to recieve the bottom of the siding. The "J" goes down the sides of the door frame as well.

Nice guys. I'll have to bring this up with the steel yard that did the job.

edit he says the door trim goes up 3-4" to seal it off. I'll test it out with the water hose and a ladder and see.

 

[Orange65]

As has been mentioned, the concrete issue can be fixed using some grout. Normally in industrial equipment that requires foundation work, a space will be built in for levelling the equipment and then back filled with grout. That will work fine in this application. Just make the building guy do it.