Shop layout plans?

[Sasquatch912]

Im trying to figure out how to have my 30x30 shop. I'll be using it for auto mechanic work and welding pretty much.

Im just trying to figure a good layout and how big of a workbench I would need.

Im also debating about putting a fan at the top to circulate air BUT I am planning to foam spray the walls.

The tall wall area..Im thinking about putting my workbench on..

Any suggestions or opinions are greatly appreciated.

Here are some pictures of the shop.

 

[Sasquatch912]

Well, I got my floor done with grinding and coating it with ghostsheild. I was thinking about painting it, but...nahh
.

Im going to start on a workbench. Thinking about making it long and fitting it between the two tall beams on the big wall.

Any good workbench plans?

Thinking about using 4x4s at the legs, 2x4s for the beams, and then plywood.

 

[NUTTSGT]

A few guys around here have incorporated a work bench in some pallet racketing.

 

[Lelandwelds]

Make them all 32", 24", or whatever is your perfect height. Long or wide can fit on multiple benches without fiddling with it.

I was happy with 2' x 4' on three legs. A recessed apron made it stiff but allowed clamping. Top was around 2" of assorted leftover plywood. Some had t nuts and carriage bolts. One was heavy duty. All were different but same height.

Metal ones were similiar.

The ones with dogs and whatnot I never used much.

 

[lis2323]

I made this bench over 35 years ago. Two 8'x2' sections of handy-angle bolted together to make a 16 footer. Doubled up 3/4" plywood top with 14 gauge galvanized steel top with formed front edge and backsplash.

EACH 8 foot section has a 3000# load capacity.

 

[Lelandwelds]

I made this bench over 35 years ago. Two 8'x2' sections of handy-angle bolted together to make a 16 footer. Doubled up 3/4" plywood top with 14 gauge galvanized steel top with formed front edge and backsplash.

EACH 8 foot section has a 3000# load capacity.

Are your walls OSB with a bit of wood slat board? Latex paint? You own an 8 ft brake and shear?

 

[Lelandwelds]

What I keep coming back to is heat. And sweat. One overhead and one man door and no windows? In Georgia?

Better get some fans and misters. Oh, wait. This is Georgia. I remember it being as humid and uncomfortable as Houston.

 

[larry_g]

Im also debating about putting a fan at the top to circulate air BUT I am planning to foam spray the walls.
.

Do a bit of research on sprayfoam directly on steel panels. Evidently it is a recipe for rust and failure. No personal experience, just what I've read.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[lis2323]

Lelandwelds: This room used to be one of the farm's 1500sq ft walk in coolers. The walls have 6" of insulation and are plywood clad with white low odor marine enamel. Slat wall yes.

I only have a 4' shear and a 3' brake. I had a sheet metal shop in town form the galv top for me.

 

[matt_i]

EACH 8 foot section has a 3000# load capacity.

Its a nice job but I think that's a bit optimistic. I have a bench I would put 3000 lbs on. But its 1" steel plate top with 2-1/2" heavy wall box tube-frame, fully welded. Handy angle is like 16ga thickness and full of voids, eh....

Back to the O.P. Ceiling fan is a must, maybe even two. The foam is good but imo you still need to circulate air to prevent surface-corrosion as humid air is "ingested" into a cool shop from opening the door. I have two ceiling fans that run 24x365 on low speed in my shop for same reasons.

As far as making a layout the easiest way is to pickup some quadrille graph paper and choose a scale that makes it as big as possible but remains convenient to think about. Then start drawing layouts. Draw another one a week from now, or even tomorrow. You will come up with different ideas.

 

[lis2323]

Its a nice job but I think that's a bit optimistic. I have a bench I would put 3000 lbs on. But its 1" steel plate top with 2-1/2" heavy wall box tube-frame, fully welded. Handy angle is like 16ga thickness and full of voids, eh....

Back to the O.P. Ceiling fan is a must, maybe even two. The foam is good but imo you still need to circulate air to prevent surface-corrosion as humid air is "ingested" into a cool shop from opening the door. I have two ceiling fans that run 24x365 on low speed in my shop for same reasons.

As far as making a layout the easiest way is to pickup some quadrille graph paper and choose a scale that makes it as big as possible but remains convenient to think about. Then start drawing layouts. Draw another one a week from now, or even tomorrow. You will come up with different ideas.

matt-- actually I was being conservative.

Configured the way it is, EACH FOUR FOOT section has a rated load capacity of 1600pounds (3200#/8ft). And the double 3/4" plywood, (glued and screwed) top adds an additional increased load capacity or safety margin.





Deceiving strong. [emoji3]

 

[Sasquatch912]

Here is a "blueprint" I drew of the shop.

So far I am going to build a 16' workbench on the tall wall to the left (like youre walking in from the roll up door).

I was planning to put the sink in the corner on the lower wall up near the personnel door (since the water line is outside on that side of the building).

Where should I put the air compressor? Should it go near the electric breaker box in the corner?

I am also planning to build a metal workbench on wheels so I might put it to the right of the workbench by the electric breaker box.

I am going to build a shelving unit; cant find any office shelving units near me on Craigslist. Im wondering where I should put it?


So basically my questions all together are
-Where should I put the air compressor?
-Where should I put the metal workbench?
-Where should I put the wooden shelve at?
-Going to get a wood burning stove. Should I put it in the middle wall (right across in front of roll up door)?




I would never figure it would be this aggervating figuring out where to put stuff at.

Thanks for the help guys!!

 

[Sasquatch912]

What I keep coming back to is heat. And sweat. One overhead and one man door and no windows? In Georgia?

Better get some fans and misters. Oh, wait. This is Georgia. I remember it being as humid and uncomfortable as Houston.

That I am. Didnt want a window where someone can easily break into.

I MAY add a fan to the peak of the tall wall. There is a vent along the roof where the roof peaks at.

 

[Sasquatch912]

Ive started on the work bench. Got the 4x4s cut to 40". Going to make the bench around 30"-32" depth.

Got a utility sink as well. Debating about how to put it in the corner..you can see it in the corner on the below pictures.

That one work bench I made thats standing..I probably will move it to the wood shop once I get the wood shop added on.

Still debating about a wood stove and a small 2nd floor area about the sink area..

 

[astroracer]

I would build the bench to the left of the man door. Doesn't make sense to have to walk the full length of the shop to get to the bench.
It doesn't matter where you put the compressor BUT putting it close to the service will save on wire.
Hard plumb it later for drops where you do most of your work.
Shelf location depends on the use. If they are just for storage put them in the back, out of the way. If you will be working off them, parts and tool storage, etc. keep them close to the work area.
My advice is to put everything you can on casters. Then it doesn't matter where you "put it". You can roll it out to work on it whenever you need to and roll it back into storage when it's not being used. I put my hydraulic press on casters as well as my stomp shear. I have 5 work benches on casters as well and they just go where I need them to. Makes for easy cleaning also.
Mark

 

[Sasquatch912]

I would build the bench to the left of the man door. Doesn't make sense to have to walk the full length of the shop to get to the bench.
It doesn't matter where you put the compressor BUT putting it close to the service will save on wire.
Hard plumb it later for drops where you do most of your work.
Shelf location depends on the use. If they are just for storage put them in the back, out of the way. If you will be working off them, parts and tool storage, etc. keep them close to the work area.
My advice is to put everything you can on casters. Then it doesn't matter where you "put it". You can roll it out to work on it whenever you need to and roll it back into storage when it's not being used. I put my hydraulic press on casters as well as my stomp shear. I have 5 work benches on casters as well and they just go where I need them to. Makes for easy cleaning also.
Mark

I have the bench on the big wall cause it is going to be 16' long.

I may do the casters on the bench...if it will work for a 16' bench.

Thanks man!

 

[astroracer]

I have the bench on the big wall cause it is going to be 16' long.

I may do the casters on the bench...if it will work for a 16' bench.

Thanks man!

And it will be how long if it's on the man door wall? 14'? Not a difference I would worry about. The walk will get old after a while, especially once you get a couple of vehicles and equipment in there you have to walk around.
A 16' bench on casters is not going to be very maneuverable, again, once you get the shop filled up it will go nowhere...
You need to have at least one solid mounted bench for the heavy work and the big vise.
I have one solid bench in my shop. it is 9' long and I use about 2' of it normally where the vise is mounted.
I have 7 rolling work stations made out of old reclaimed kitchen and bath cabinets, Reinforced and with casters they make excellent work benches. Lots of storage in the drawers and, with metal tops they make good grinding and welding stations also.
Don't get caught up in building a huge bench. It will turn into a clutter collector very quickly. An 8' bench will serve you well. Concentrate on finding a some old remodel throw out cabinets and build a couple of rolling work stations.
Mark

 

[Sasquatch912]

Are you meaning build the bench up on the wall where the sink is at in the middle of the shop?

 

[astroracer]

Are you meaning build the bench up on the wall where the sink is at in the middle of the shop?

On the same wall as the man door, either left or right as you come into the shop thru the door. Put the bench on the side opposite the door swing. If the door opens in to the left, put the bench on the right and vice-versa.
Mark

 

[Sasquatch912]

On the same wall as the man door, either left or right as you come into the shop thru the door. Put the bench on the side opposite the door swing. If the door opens in to the left, put the bench on the right and vice-versa.
Mark

Hmm...I see what youre talking about.

The door opens up outside (in the part that I will be making a woodshop, but opens to the side toward the roll up door.

I have the sink in that one corner because the water line is on that side as well as the ditch where I can drain the water. Unless I move the sink somewhere else along that wall. I was also planning to put a small refrigerator near the sink as well.


I was planning to build a metal welding table w/ casters maybe 4'x4' with a vise. I guess I can have it over near the breaker box and have two 220v plugs there. One for the welder and one for the compressor. I can make a 220v extension cord.

I was figuring a 16' workbench so I could have a spot to put another vise (though the metal table vise might would be good enough), and I was planning to get a chop saw as well but I can always move it on the metal welding table (or possibly have a shelf under the table to store the chop saw and other metal working things).

So, visually I can see 16' being too long and most not being used for nothing.

I was going to buy those little plastic boxes to store electrical **** connectors, BUT I was planning to have cabinets and shelves above the bench SO I could store stuff like that there and keep the bench clean.

I was planning to get a blast cabinet, standing drill press, parts washer, band saw...so that will take up room by itself so a smaller bench would be more suitable PLUS i will get a tool chest.

Thanks man..this is making me think deeper.

 

[astroracer]

And that's what I want you to do, think about it.
I've been in my shop now for 32 years and the best thing I did was putting everything I could on casters.
ALL of my storage cabinets are on casters.
Both bandsaws are on casters.
My blasting cabinet is on casters.
My 3 in 1 is on casters.
Do you see a theme here? With all of the equipment on casters it doesn't matter where you put it. It is mobile and you can rearrange your shop every day if that is what you want to do.
Pick up some filing cabinets at yard sales. 5 or 10 dollars and there is a ton of dirt and dust free storage in them. Put them on casters and roll them around.
Mark

 

[astroracer]

Here are a few pics of some of my storage and work cabinets.

 

[Sasquatch912]

Sounds good. I may just do a 9'-10'Lx32"Wx40"H workbench and cabinets/shelf above it.

But everything else will be on casters and moveable.

Where should I put the bench grinder? On the metal working bench?

Never really thought about cabinets being used as a bench because I figured most of it was OSB and ready to fall apart

 

[astroracer]

My grinders are on a mobile cart. My chop saw and 12" wood saw are on another small cabinet. You need to get out of the mind set of "where I put a piece of equipment is where it will be forever".
My 2 stage 7.5 horse air compressor is on casters...
I can empty my entire shop in about 10 minutes. Except for the mill. That is not on casters... yet.
Mark

 

[Sasquatch912]

My grinders are on a mobile cart. My chop saw and 12" wood saw are on another small cabinet. You need to get out of the mind set of "where I put a piece of equipment is where it will be forever".
My 2 stage 7.5 horse air compressor is on casters...
I can empty my entire shop in about 10 minutes. Except for the mill. That is not on casters... yet.
Mark

Yeah, I will keep the metal working tools with each other. The chop saw can go under the metal working table.

The grinder and vise can be on one side of the table or across from each other.

So the workbench can be basically empty for most of the time.

An air compressor on casters? Does it not vibrate and make it move any?

 

[astroracer]

The casters under the air compressor are 5" dia. rubber. They actually isolate the compressor from the floor and keep it from vibrating. It hasn't moved a bit in the 17 years it's been on them.

 

[Sasquatch912]

Started on the 10' workbench. Should fit in any corner.

Im going to add some legs in the middle for support.

 

[Lotek]

Just a thought, but 2x6's would be much stronger than 2x4's for the beams.

 

[AntiqueVises]

The casters under the air compressor are 5" dia. rubber. They actually isolate the compressor from the floor and keep it from vibrating. It hasn't moved a bit in the 17 years it's been on them.

do you keep the wheels locked? that's not a bad idea. almost killed myself trying to move mine

 

[astroracer]

do you keep the wheels locked? that's not a bad idea. almost killed myself trying to move mine

I'll have to look. I don't remember if the casters locked or not. I'll get some pics.
Yea, this thing is a monster, 7.5 HP/80gal vertical and it was a biotch to move around before the caster addition.
Mark

 

[Sasquatch912]

Just a thought, but 2x6's would be much stronger than 2x4's for the beams.

Yeah, I was thinking that.

 

[astroracer]

Yeah, I was thinking that.

Put another set of legs in the middle and you will be good with the 2 x 4's. You aren't going to be setting a car on the bench so it doesn't have to be built that way. A transmission will set on the 2 x 4 bench with no issues.
Down the road, if you need something stouter, build it then.
Mark