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Shop lifting questions

Runum

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 4, 2005
Messages
182
Location
DFW
Actually I need help on lifting a shop. My shop is 28x32 wood frame built on a level slab. It was built about 20 years ago and it has rotted sill plates at the bottoms of some of the walls. My plan is to lift the walls up and replace the sill plates. I also want to lay a row of brick or cinder blocks to get the walls up off of the slab. Anyone with any suggetions on how to lift the shop safely? Anyone with experience in this?

Greg
 
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Wardrum

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Joined
Jan 31, 2006
Messages
243
Location
Wisconsin
Any house mover should be able to lift it for you, block it there and then lower it again after you do your remodeling.
 

HighOctane

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Joined
May 10, 2006
Messages
178
Ya maybe a Construction Company would do it for you call up some of the local ones and ask if they will.
 

bmwpower

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Staff member
Joined
Apr 24, 2005
Messages
12,578
Location
NJ
I just saw an episode of Dirty Jobs on Discovery last night. They lifted an entire house (60 tons) and moved it down the street. Pretty amazing. I would think lifting a garage would be cake for someone like this. Try your yellow pages.
 

SuperKid

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Joined
Jan 9, 2006
Messages
382
Location
Indiana
If you were closer, I could come over and hold it up while you work on it. :lol_hitti Seriously though, as other have said, there are companies that do this sort of thing for a living. Try and find one near you. It may cost you a little more, but if anything were to happen, they'd have to foot the bill and not you. Good luck.:thumbup:
 
OP
R

Runum

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 4, 2005
Messages
182
Location
DFW
Thanks for the info guys. Really good ideas. I got the interior walls and insulation removed. I also began removing the exterior siding of one wall planned expansion. Well now I know why I have rotted sill plates. I have termites. :mad: They have eaten the lap board the was beneath the siding. I am sure that moisture contributed to the sill plate damage but these little buggers have really eaten the walls. :( I am considering burning the shop to the ground and putting up a metal building.:headscrat Thanks again for your help.

Greg
 
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bmwpower

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Apr 24, 2005
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12,578
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NJ
Damn. What a shame.

If you rebuild, get the building off the ground by putting in 2-3 course of block above ground, THEN start framing. And use PT wood for the sills, obviously. I never really understood why more garages aren't built off the ground instead of directly on slab.

Or, as you said, build a metal one.
 

AgentZ

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 9, 2006
Messages
222
Location
Christchurch, New Zealand
Get a big puffy jacket, sun glasses, and........oh wait wrong type of shop lifting! Really probably the what the guys have already said is what would be best.
 

krooser

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2005
Messages
2,377
Location
Waupaca, Wisconsin
I've seen garages raised by tieing the sidewalls together wth 2X4's...then putting 4X4's under those cross-tied 2X4's and liftng the walls with high-lift mechancal farm/equipment jacks.

Tuff to describe...ez to do.
 

wrigh003

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Joined
Mar 27, 2006
Messages
783
Location
Birmingham, AL
AgentZ said:
Get a big puffy jacket, sun glasses, and........oh wait wrong type of shop lifting! Really probably the what the guys have already said is what would be best.

heeheehee...

:bounce:
 

73GRAND

Active member
Joined
Apr 7, 2005
Messages
25
Location
NIAGARA FALLS
Alright, I have run into this quite a few times. You actually don't need lift your building up at all. If your sill is rotted , chances are your studs are rotted also. You fix this prblem forever by going with the following procedure.

1. Double up 2x6 to make a temporary header.
2. Support header using 4x4's cut to the correct length in order to put 4x4's on the floor and the header under your ceiling joists. Connect the 4x4's to the header using galvanized deck brackets for 4x4's.
3. You already have the sideing removed, once the temp header is in place about 18" from the side wall you can cut off the bottoms of the studs.
4. Calculate the height of a block (8") + a pressure treated plate that you can bolt into the new anchor bolts that you will cast into the block (1 1/2") + another plate that you will toe nail your new sistered in stud ends to and you know how much to cut off your existing studs. I'd cut off about 18".
5. Your sistered on stud ends will be about 18" a piece and screwed to the existing stud. Use pressure treated lumber and good deck screws.

6.
 
Joined
Apr 8, 2006
Messages
12
Runum said:
Actually I need help on lifting a shop. My shop is 28x32 wood frame built on a level slab. It was built about 20 years ago and it has rotted sill plates at the bottoms of some of the walls. My plan is to lift the walls up and replace the sill plates. I also want to lay a row of brick or cinder blocks to get the walls up off of the slab. Anyone with any suggetions on how to lift the shop safely? Anyone with experience in this?

Greg

I lifted my barn a couple years ago. The footers had been only dug a foot deep and had cracked and broken. It's an old barn built post & beam style with board & batten. I didn't want the frame to pull apart as I was raising it up so my first job was to screw 2 x 6s to the inside of the frame. I put them on a diagonal, from the bottom corners up to the center of the wall and then put additional pieces in to form a "W" inside the first two corner pieces. You carpenters will recognize that I built a Fink truss. I did this on all three walls, the front is a 18 foot door opening. I braced that and tied the first 3 roof trusses to the wall with 2 x 4s.

I used a variey of jacks, mainly really big bottle jacks and a couple of old mechanical barn jacks. When I got the whole thing up in the air, I bridged across the footer trenches with very large timbers and let the barn down on them. The plates stood off maybe 4 inches above the tops of the blocks.

I then demolished the existed block wall, broke up the footer and began to hand dig a trench around the three walls. I was kind of crouched over but it got better the deeper I went. I went down 4 feet, laid a lattice-work of reo and called the concrete guys. I tend to overdo things and didn't want the next guy to undo my efforts, so ordered 4000 psi concrete. After the pour and a week or so to stiffen up the footers, I started laying block. I brought it up as high under the sills as I could to keep the wood from getting wet. I gained about 3 inches in over all height. In the last course I set J-hooks under the sills and then filled those cores with mortar.

Put down a layer of foam and lowered the barn. Bolted down the sills and coated the outside of the blocks and footer with tar. Back fill with gravel to grade and a couple feet out so I don't have to mow right up to the barn.

It might have been easier to have a fire and then build a new barn, but this one has character and I'm usually too bull-headed to take the easy road.
 
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