shop lights, flush mountable?

[timtaylor]

i have some t12 lights that were purchased about 5 years ago. they're running well with occasional use.
these are the ones: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25e...0053&langId=-1&keyword=lithonia&storeId=10051

they come with the chain to hang them and also a cord to be plugged in.
i was looking to add another fixture in to the garage and also hardwiring them all to operate by one switch.

question: because they come with a hanging chain, are they able to be flush mounted to the ceiling?
i planned to hardwire them also and removing the existing plug. any negative consequences?
should i get a new t8 instead of another t12 to match the existing three?
am i asking to be

thanks

 

[Falcon67]

I would not because the mag ballasts get pretty hot. When I ran T-12, I used a small 3/4" spacer block at both ends to allow for air to flow across the top of the fixture. My T8 units are mounted directly to the ceiling as the ballasts are much smaller and run cooler. If you are going to the effort to mount and hardwire it all in, I would urge you to update them all to T8. Better light, more selection in bulbs,

 

[timtaylor]

I would not because the mag ballasts get pretty hot. When I ran T-12, I used a small 3/4" spacer block at both ends to allow for air to flow across the top of the fixture. My T8 units are mounted directly to the ceiling as the ballasts are much smaller and run cooler. If you are going to the effort to mount and hardwire it all in, I would urge you to update them all to T8. Better light, more selection in bulbs,

makes sense. i saw some T8's with the hanging chain for $13 at the big orange. safe to say i can flush mount those and remove the plug and hardwire it? i don't mind the spacer idea for my t12's, 3/4" is much better than a hanging chain.

 

[JimVonBaden]

makes sense. i saw some T8's with the hanging chain for $13 at the big orange. safe to say i can flush mount those and remove the plug and hardwire it? i don't mind the spacer idea for my t12's, 3/4" is much better than a hanging chain.

I did mine that way, no issues!

Jim

 

[Charles (in GA)]

You need to read everything about the lights carefully. Just because they are T8's does not mean they can be surface mounted. Many lights, especially cheaper ones, must be suspended or otherwise mounted with a specified clearance.

Charles

 

[Steevo]

I am always amused by the "recommendations" provided by individuals who have installed their (lights/compressor/etc.) "that way" and have had "no problems".

The only problem that matters is whether your insurance company pays off in the event of a fire/disaster.

Just because your lights are flush mounted and seem to work OK doesn't guarantee that. Especially if they are connected by a rats nest of plug-in power cords, which will look like a toasty wire tangle to an insurance adjuster, who will certainly question the installation.

If the light fixture isn't specifically listed as surface-mountable, it probably isn't! And this little "discussion point" will be non-negotiable when your adjuster isn't provided with vendor documentation stating that the way you installed the fixture is within the manufacturers recommended safe installation parameters.

 

[curlyws6]

I was advised by an electrician friend of mine to suspend all my lights from chains and to put receptacles in the ceiling. The main reason was that you could pull them down to the floor for ballast changes in the case of a failure. He also didn't recommend mounting them directly to teh ceiling due to heat concerns. I figured he had been an electrician long enough to know what he was talking about (he was in his late 60's at the time).

 

[JimVonBaden]

I was advised by an electrician friend of mine to suspend all my lights from chains and to put receptacles in the ceiling. The main reason was that you could pull them down to the floor for ballast changes in the case of a failure. He also didn't recommend mounting them directly to teh ceiling due to heat concerns. I figured he had been an electrician long enough to know what he was talking about (he was in his late 60's at the time).

Not to dis a lot of experience, but he might be more familiar with the old style lights than the new. My T8 fixtures do not get very warm. Flush mounting is not an issue.

Jim

 

[pipsters]

I bought T8 shop lights. They came with chains. You aren't suppose to flush mount them - but a lot of people do. What I did was use about a 3/4" section of PVC where the screws go up and into the ceiling. Not nearly as much room as a chain but it looks better, and I was willing to take the risk, albeit small.

You're *not supposed* to flush mount them, I would at least put a little bit of space in between them, but I think most people do without issue. I believe a big part of the issue is if the ballast fails - it could overheat causing a fire - and mounting below will reduce the chance of the fire spreading.

 

[timtaylor]

thanks for the input all, great advice.

 

[pipsters]

thanks for the input all, great advice.

Also just noticed you linked to the cheapie lights. Spend the $8 more and get the T8 fixtures. MUCH better cold starting, brighter, and lower energy consumption.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...d=-1&keyword=shop+light&storeId=10051#reviews

That picture posted in the review is of my lights when I installed them.

 

[JimVonBaden]

Definitely get the T8. They run cooler.

Mine are LOA lights from Walmart, $9.99 each, and work great! No pull chain switch, but I have mine hooked to my light switch anyhow.

Jim

 

[timtaylor]

Also just noticed you linked to the cheapie lights. Spend the $8 more and get the T8 fixtures. MUCH better cold starting, brighter, and lower energy consumption.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...d=-1&keyword=shop+light&storeId=10051#reviews

That picture posted in the review is of my lights when I installed them.

the T8 and T12 are the same price (both without pull chains)
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...ogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=t8&storeId=10051

HD had them both wired and on display, I couldn't tell a difference in terms of light output, I'll have to take your word for the ballast issue.

 

[jstonesue]

Thanks all for the great input.

What about LED 4 ft shop light for 'near' flush mount? I felt the store display, it was lightly warm, but not hot, so I know some airspace is important?

Just purchased from Sam's-on sale $25.

I am conferring with other sources as well.

I was actually surprised that the LED had warmth at all?

 

[Platonic Solid]

Dang, this thread is 5 years old! A lot has changed in lighting since then.

Generated heat and efficiency go hand-in-hand. Less efficiency = more heat. The Sam's shop light is less efficient than many fluorescent strip lights. It probably won't burn your house down to surface mount it (no guarantees), but don't be surprised if it experiences premature failure due to not being able to efficiently dissipate generated heat.

 

[Gmonkee]

I have installed 20+ of the bulb type LED lights and several of the printed circuit board type.

The bulb type do generate a lot of heat in use. Less than incandescent but still warm to the touch. The card type when given open air flow stay a lot cooler.

I have not used the tube type yet but the ones in the stores do get a bit warm too.

The future of my home goes with the cooler running stuff where possible.

As far as flush mounting cheaper units goes don't take risks going for an image.
Give them that air space and if possible give the garage lighting its own breaker.
Saving money is good but trusting the low price leader in electrics isn't always the best idea. Some can be lightweight in the wiring.

 

[Falcon67]

Thanks all for the great input.

What about LED 4 ft shop light for 'near' flush mount? I felt the store display, it was lightly warm, but not hot, so I know some airspace is important?

Just purchased from Sam's-on sale $25.

I am conferring with other sources as well.

I was actually surprised that the LED had warmth at all?

The Sams LED shop lights - and probably many others - use a solid piece of aluminum extrusion for the body. It does not come apart. The only heat would be from the LEDs on the bottom, well away from any surface on the rear. The plug end has a little circuit board that controls the lights. To surface mount, you'd need to drill straight through the central body of the fixture from the bulb side and far enough in from the ends - 8~12" - to miss the PCB. Then take one end off to let the chaff out.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I mounted my T8 strips lights on some 3/4" blocking and they are basically flush mount other than that...no hanging from a chain. My concern was the ballast generating some heat but I have switched them over to T8 LED and still have no issue.

As far as I'm concerned, a little air gap with any electrical product probably isn't a bad thing.