Shop Loft Questions

[SellersMachineCo]

I am going to build a loft in the back of my 30x50 shop. I’m planning on making it 8’ off of the shop floor, the full 30’ wide across the back, and 10’ deep. My side walls are 12’ tall and the peak is 16’, so this should give me decent headroom in the center of the loft and storage on either side.

As of now, I’m planing on running 2x10s along the side walls and screwing them into the metal posts with wood to metal self drilling screws (commonly called trailer deck screws). I’ll probably also put an angle iron brace under the 2x10s at each post, and attach them using rivet nuts and bolts. For the front beam, I’ll use sistered 2x10’s supported by (2) 6x6 posts so that each span is only 10’.

For the joists, I’m thinking 2x8s will be sufficient hung in metal joist hangers. 16” on center or maybe more if I can get away with it?

Am I on the right track? I’m not a general contractor or a framer, but I have done plenty of this type of work in the past. I just want to make sure this is all “correct” before I start the project.

 

[billconner]

I think you need to check with metal building manufacturer if the existing metal columns and take the additional load. Worst case you need to add a small wood post adjacent to metal.

By instinct I think 2x8 might work fine for joists - just check span tables.

I didn't calc double 2x10. Check that, but a shallower lvl might work also.

How thick is slab? I worry - little - about 6x6 concentrated loads. With a 50 sf tributary area, in the 1500 pound range. Probably fine. 4" slab spreads it out to about a square foot on base.

Definitely right track IMHO.

 

[SellersMachineCo]

I think you need to check with metal building manufacturer if the existing metal columns and take the additional load. Worst case you need to add a small wood post adjacent to metal.

By instinct I think 2x8 might work fine for joists - just check span tables.

I didn't calc double 2x10. Check that, but a shallower lvl might work also.

How thick is slab? I worry - little - about 6x6 concentrated loads. With a 50 sf tributary area, in the 1500 pound range. Probably fine. 4" slab spreads it out to about a square foot on base.

Definitely right track IMHO.

Great points! Thank you! The building manufacturer won’t speak to me anymore, so I may just have to find the answer about the metal posts on the internet haha.

The slab is supposed to be 4” thick but it’s 5-6” most places. All fiber reinforced concrete.

 

[Zeke]

If the building manufacturer "won't speak to you anymore..." I'd let others know who this is. The very least they can do is say they don't know and won't look into it. But to refuse communication is cause for exposure. I'm sure there are 2 sides and they can offer a rebuttal, if they care.

 

[SellersMachineCo]

If the building manufacturer "won't speak to you anymore..." I'd let others know who this is. The very least they can do is say they don't know and won't look into it. But to refuse communication is cause for exposure. I'm sure there are 2 sides and they can offer a rebuttal, if they care.

We had major issues with their concrete work on my slab. At first they refused to fix it and actually demanded I pay more money for the additional concrete they had to pour. It went back and forth for a couple weeks and I was about to get a lawyer involved when they finally agreed to move on with my building and not charge extra for the concrete. They never did offer to fix the issues with the concrete. The actual building went up fine and I’m happy with that work. I called back a few months ago to ask about some things and they won’t return my calls. So to be fair, the building is what it should’ve been but the concrete is not. Company was Vega Metal Structures out of Randleman, NC.

 

[Zeke]

Fair enough.

As for the loft, I think your plan is pretty good. Rather than running it by a garage forum, why not ask a local contractor that frames for some help? You can make it clear that you only want a consultant and he's not on the hook for anything. I think if you dangled a nice carrot in front of him you could get some help. There has to be a bunch of old retired guys like me that could use a spiff now and then. Unfortunately, framing was not my strong suit although I did a few buildings. That was a long time ago before I went into the door and window business. We were still using round washers on the plate then. Only a few had nail guns.

 

[SellersMachineCo]

Fair enough.

As for the loft, I think your plan is pretty good. Rather than running it by a garage forum, why not ask a local contractor that frames for some help? You can make it clear that you only want a consultant and he's not on the hook for anything. I think if you dangled a nice carrot in front of him you could get some help. There has to be a bunch of old retired guys like me that could use a spiff now and then. Unfortunately, framing was not my strong suit although I did a few buildings. That was a long time ago before I went into the door and window business. We were still using round washers on the plate then. Only a few had nail guns.

I figured someone on here has probably built a similar loft before, and as busy as everyone is I figured I’d try not to bug any contractors haha. I just called a friend of mine who is a GC, and he said it all sounds good. He suggested screwing 2x4s to the face of the metal posts below the 2x10s. That will act as an additional post, which sounds much better than screwing angle iron below them.

 

[misterfixit]

That's my wall when I built it. I made the inside and outside flush. Metal skin was flush all the way on the outside, and I put plywood on the inside:


The plywood is 8' tall and screwed directly to the metal frame. The walls are 12" tall at sides with about 4/12 pitch. the building is 30x40, you are looking at 30' right to left.
I then build interior walls and spanned them with 2x6 since the span was less than 10'.


This left me about 30x16 upper storage area. I have my central A/C unit up there as well as just 'junk' storage right now


The left room is a 'clean' room where I do assembly and electronic type stuff. I have a laser engraver in there. The center is the machine shop with a mill and lathe. The right side is the 'dirty' area, sanders, grinders and welders.

 

[billconner]

The 2x4 rather than angle sounds good - stiffens steel column and adds support. I just know they usually engineer as much steel out of these as possible.

 

[My Old Tools]

Looks like light weight steel framing. You may want to make it mostly free standing, you're almost there anyway.

 

[jack stand]

I can't speak factually about those carport "buildings" but their economy depends on materials sized (gauge) to just hold the the structure itself and no "what if" factor built in.
At minimum a 4x4 or a pair of 2x4 jacks at each post supporting your 2x10 would be very cheap insurance.

 

[SellersMachineCo]

I can't speak factually about those carport "buildings" but there economy depends on materials sized (gauge) to just hold the the structure itself and no "what if" factor built in.
At minimum a 4x4 or a pair of 2x4 jacks at each post supporting your 2x10 would be very cheap insurance.

This is pretty much what I’ve decided to go with. The front corners will be supported by a 4x6 butted against each wall. Each metal stud will be boxed out with 2x4’s as well. Should be way stronger than it needs to be!

 

[SellersMachineCo]

Well the hard part of buying the lumber is over, now the fun part of building it can begin!

 

[bluedog225]

I would probably block the two by eights halfway across. That’s just me.

 

[jack stand]

I think you mentioned that your not really loading it heavily, but to further isolate the load a little diagonal bracing on each of the 3 sides on the new "legs" would make a lot of sense.
Have fun!

 

[SellersMachineCo]

I would probably block the two by eights halfway across. That’s just me.

I’ll definitely do that. Cheap insurance!

 

[firebirdparts]

I figured someone on here has probably built a similar loft before, and as busy as everyone is I figured I’d try not to bug any contractors haha. I just called a friend of mine who is a GC, and he said it all sounds good. He suggested screwing 2x4s to the face of the metal posts below the 2x10s. That will act as an additional post, which sounds much better than screwing angle iron below them.

This is certainly what I would suggest. You don't really lose much space or cost, and you're not relying on that relatively thin walled stuff. A restrained 2 by 4 can hold up a lot of weight.