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Shop Press Build

f150skidoo

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So my old HF 20 ton press was handy as hell but I out grew its capabilities. Basically all I use a press for is bending sheet goods or using dimple dies. I sold my old press for what I payed for it:beer:, so I'm now was in the market for a new one. I looked in to the Princess Auto 50 ton (same as Harbor Freight) but the frame looked a little light for the tonnage it can produce. The PA /HF press was narrower then I wanted between the uprights and was a manual pump with Air. Since the press will live out in the back shed where theirs no compressed air it would be a lot of pumping by hand. So I was looking at a 50 ton press that has a electric power unit which are very expensive to buy new and are rare to show up in the classifieds. I ended up deciding to build my own press.


The press will have a 50 ton dual action cylinder that has a 6" bore and 10" stroke. The power unit is a 2hp motor with a 2 stage pump and a 5 gallon reservoir. The press will be 42" between the uprights and stands 77" tall, I figure it will weigh in around 1200 lbs. The frame consists of 3/4"x4" flat bar for the uprights and 12"x20.7 lb/ft channel for the top beam and table. Since this is made from some heavy chunks of steel the gantry crane is a life saver so I don't have to lift anything manually. The parts of the frame would be a PITA to put on the table of my small mill so bringing the drill to the work piece was the easiest thing to do.
 

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f150skidoo

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Next was to transfer the bolt holes from the uprights to the C channel and then mag drill the holes. I bolted together the frame with six 3/4"x10" grade 5 bolts, The six bolts shear capacity is double of what the cylinder can push.
 

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f150skidoo

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Sorry guys I'm not sure why some of the pictures are sideways, their the right way up on my computer but only show side ways when I upload them here.
 
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f150skidoo

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So old Santa was pretty good to me today. Got the La Gesse La Square with a 2" wide base, and a SWAG 40" press brake kit which is the only reason for this press build. I figure I should be able to bend 3' of 1/4" plate to 90 degrees.
 

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ishiboo

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So old Santa was pretty good to me today. Got the La Gesse La Square with a 2" wide base, and a SWAG 40" press brake kit which is the only reason for this press build. I figure I should be able to bend 3' of 1/4" plate to 90 degrees.

36" of 1/4" is a lot to bend. I would plan on reinforcing the top of the SWAG kit, or better yet go with two smaller cylinders instead of one big one.
 

scarydriver

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This is great, as I'm currently gathering the parts to build a very similar press, and already have a ram of nearly identical specs. Can you provide a link to the 2 stage pump that you're using? Also, if you've figured out which valve you're using, I'd like to know which one as well.

Excited to follow along with your build! :thumbup:
 

Know Wosad

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Mines a comin' ! Updates in the next few days. The build will revolve around the Swag 40" finger brake kit with 50 tons of oooomph.
15 cents a lb.
I hope to be able to 90 some 1/4 x 24 if I need to. We'll see
Something along these lines
100%20TON%20X%2048%20IN.%20SHOP%20PRESS.JPG
 

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f150skidoo

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I plan on reinforcing the swag kit so I don't destroy it. Bending 36" of 1/4" plate will take A lot of force but the brake has a 2.25" lower die width, at that die width it will take 13.5 tons per foot to bend 1/4" plate, so at 3 feet it will take a bit over 40 tons of force.

I plan on using a log splitter detent valve. Here's a link to the pump I'm using, I bought the pump when it was 20% off earlier this month, I'm not using the provided tank but a larger 5 gallon tank.


http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/2-hp-ac-2-stage-multifunction-hydraulic-power-unit/A-p8677239e
 

NUTTSGT

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Another great build. I always enjoy your build threads. I do have a question though, do you have another garage/shop that you use ? While I know you do amazing stuff in that little space but if that is all you have, you sir need more room.
 
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f150skidoo

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Yep thats all I have for shop space, but the press is going to live out in the back shed beside my snowmobile

Sent from my LG-K210 using Tapatalk
 

MJD1

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I plan on reinforcing the swag kit so I don't destroy it. Bending 36" of 1/4" plate will take A lot of force but the brake has a 2.25" lower die width, at that die width it will take 13.5 tons per foot to bend 1/4" plate, so at 3 feet it will take a bit over 40 tons of force.

I plan on using a log splitter detent valve. Here's a link to the pump I'm using, I bought the pump when it was 20% off earlier this month, I'm not using the provided tank but a larger 5 gallon tank.


http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/2-hp-ac-2-stage-multifunction-hydraulic-power-unit/A-p8677239e
2.25 die opening is awful tight for 1/4" . 3" opening would be a lot less stress, and still give a decent bend radius.
 

62blue

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f150skidoo Do you plan on raising and lowering the bed by hydraulic or by cable and pulley system as that would be a man killer to lift up. We had a 50 ton at work and the bed was lifted by cable and pulley system.
62blue
Don
 
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f150skidoo

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Had a bit of time today to get some work done on the press. I wasn't sure were I would mount the hydraulic valve, the places were it was most comfortable would have the hydraulic line interfere with the table height positions. I ended up machining a slot through the 3/4"x4" flat bar so the valve body is hidden from the front. I also assembled the 5 gallon tank to the 2hp power unit, and I'm going to mount it at the bottom between the uprights.
 

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Yarz

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Tarentum PA
Will you add some sort of protection from falling objects to the power unit/tank? I only ask because I've dropped several things (mostly smaller, I'll admit) right into that space.

For example, when I pressed wheel studs out of my truck's drum, a few required the full 20 tons plus some hammer taps for vibration, and when they popped out, that is right where they went.
 

Bib Overalls

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My friend Barry has converted several old industrial sized press brakes from kinetic (spinning weights) to hydraulic with great success. They go for cheap at auction but they are only a deal if they come with dies. And of course the tend to be big and are useless if you want to press bearings off of axles.
 
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NUTTSGT

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Will you add some sort of protection from falling objects to the power unit/tank? I only ask because I've dropped several things (mostly smaller, I'll admit) right into that space.



I was going to mention something similar as a word of caution too. I've also pressed a couple of long things and needed that space too. One of them being the column of a drill press.
 
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f150skidoo

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After plowing snow most of the morning I got around to starting to fabricating the lower cross member/power unit mount. I thought about a piece of tube with a plate welded to it to hold the power unit. But whats in the fun of doing something the easy way, plus this mount is for more aesthetics then anything. So its made from 11 gauge hot rolled and its a outside corner joint, this part was the first time running the 210 MP on 115V with .025 wire and I was pretty pleased with the result.
 

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f150skidoo

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Got the the power unit support attached to the frame. Next was to make the table, I'm using smaller channel as a divider between the 12" channel. In the smaller channel I machined a chain keyhole so I can lengthen/shorten the chain for moving the table.
 

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f150skidoo

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Kind of running out of things to do on the press until the 2" plate arrives for the cylinder mount, since that part is holding up several things like boxing in a part of the top channels. So in the mean time I finished the 40" swag brake by adding some stiffeners to the top die. I machined a 1"x3/4" slot in some 2" cold rolled round bar to fit on the 1" wide top die. Then added some 3/8" plate on both sides of the round bar. I also cut the piece of 1/4" plate to box in the channel which will hold the power units on/off switch.
 

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Iroc-Z

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Any chance I could get info on the pump, motor, and ram set up? I would like to convert my 50 ton to electric at some point but I am not a pro at sizing up this stuff.
 
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f150skidoo

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Here's the link to the cylinder, power unit, and larger tank. Converting a press to fully hydraulic one won't be cheap. I figure by the time I buy the power unit, cylinder, valve, hoses, oil, power switch, and wiring ill probably be over $1500.

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/6-in-bore-x-10-in-stroke-hydraulic-press-cylinder/A-p8649675e

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/2-hp-ac-2-stage-multifunction-hydraulic-power-unit/A-p8677239e

http://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...r-unit-reservoir-with-level-gauge/A-p8478182e
 

Cue

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Nice build :) Look forward to seeing the Cylinder mounting.

Couple of questions, the pump you listed says its a 3000psi pump, the ram has a 6" bore, using the calculator from my other thread that calculates to 84823 pounds or 42.4115 tons unless I am missing something?

Also, whats the benefit of having the larger oil tank? I assume the included one wouldn't hold enough oil to extend the cylinder to full length?
 
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f150skidoo

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Nice build :) Look forward to seeing the Cylinder mounting.

Couple of questions, the pump you listed says its a 3000psi pump, the ram has a 6" bore, using the calculator from my other thread that calculates to 84823 pounds or 42.4115 tons unless I am missing something?

Also, whats the benefit of having the larger oil tank? I assume the included one wouldn't hold enough oil to extend the cylinder to full length?

Nope your not missing anything, its not a true 50 ton press. Im just calling it a 50 ton since 42.4 ton sounds odd. The reason for the bigger tank is the cylinder/lines hold the same volume as the original tank.

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f150skidoo

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So I'm still waiting for my 2" plate but They told me today that it will be in Monday or Tuesday. So I've been messing around finishing up all the odds and ends that I can on the press. So one of the tasks was to cut off the pin on mount from the cylinder base and prep it for welding the 2" plate. Also here's a couple pictures for scale of its size.
 

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f150skidoo

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Some of the other thing I had to do was plasma cut the hole in the web of the upper channel for the pressure gauge, Getting the upper boxed in area prepped so I just have to weld it in. Reinforcing the web of the channel on the table. Mag drilling holes for routing of the power wire & making a ground screw for the switch.
 

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C_F

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Don't know how I missed your thread until now.:headscrat That's a great looking press so far, very stout! It looks just like my 20 ton, only 100 times stronger. :lol:

Looking forward to your continued updates.
 

skipnay

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I can't wait to see updates also. If I ever and I probably will some day need a bigger press I will be here duplicating this monster!!!
 
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f150skidoo

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So the plate finally arrived late last week so I'm back to posting progress on the build. I'm pretty impressed with the cut quality on this 2" thick plate, I had to us the mag drill to drill the ten 1/2" holes. Next was to transfer the bolt holes onto the channels flange. Since the inside of structural channels are tapered I had to make bevel washers so the nuts sit flat. I welded the nuts and bevel washers to the 12" channel since their will be no access due to the boxing in of the channel.
 

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f150skidoo

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Next was to weld the base plate to the cylinder, I made sure that I tripled checked that the plate was perfectly centered to the cylinder and square to the oil ports. Before welding I fully extended the rod so the seals were as far away from the heat possible. Also left the oil ports open for venting of heat and smoke. I did a 250F preheat before doing 3 passes at the highest heat setting on my welder. With the 2" plate welded on to the cylinder it now weighs 200 lbs so a lifting point is a necessity. Now I can finally weld on the the stiffeners to box in the top channels, I only stitch welded the 1/4" plate so it can flex if it wants to.
 

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matt_i

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This is really great fabrication, I have a structural question about drilling all the holes in the top flange of the upper channel...as that's where the max tensile bending stress will be.

Just went out and looked at my 30t press, much smaller of course :) It has no holes in either channel, the square plate is attached to the rod-gland end of the cylinder, then tie-rods go up to another set of straps so it can be loosened and moved within the frame. However the plate is pushing on the compression-side of the channel.

Anyway not trying to be negative, just curious how you are designing.
 
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f150skidoo

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I didnt want to weld the plate to the gland end of the cylinder in case the heat screwed up the bore. But on the base were I welded it won't efect the cylinders bore. Ive seen several production 50T have a plate welded to the top of the channel then the cylinder mounted below. Since i had to weld the plate to the cylinder i didn't want to then weld it to the channel in case i needed to remove the cylinder.

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