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Shop press

bradthefixer

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Nov 2, 2022
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29
Hello, I'm looking for a detailed part list to build a shop press that will utilizes a PORTA POWER ram as its hyd source, something 10-15 ton. I bought and returned a HF press due to sloppy China workmanship. I've seen a few nice home-built presses with porta power- rams on the net but seems never a material list or dimensions or any way to contact the person posting the pic. (Pinterest) I wish I would have taken the dimensions, material size, length etc. of the one I used in a shop some time ago. I have the porta power, steel from my neighbor's steel supply business, I have plasma, welders, torches, drill press etc. one plan I came up with but not sure of the thickness of metal to use and thought I would ask around to see what has worked out well for others. Please, if you have a design with using a PORTA- POWER RAM or know of someone who does please let me know. Let's keep HF presses out of the discussion please.
 
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Innovate1

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Jul 28, 2014
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Illinois near St. Louis, Missouri
HF 20 ton press + $170 20 ton air over hydraulic jack. I got those about 6-8 years ago and seems like they were half what they are now although I did catch them on a sale. Seems like a lot of work unless you already have the parts and just like to build.
 

sz0k30

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Feb 12, 2014
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SE Michigan
If you really just want to make your own, go to a Harbor Freight store with your cell phone and a tape measure, take a few pictures and do some measuring.
 
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bradthefixer

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Nov 2, 2022
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If you really just want to make your own, go to a Harbor Freight store with your cell phone and a tape measure, take a few pictures and do some measuring.
I don't want harbor freight design. Like I said porta-power hyd source.
 
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bradthefixer

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Nov 2, 2022
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HF 20 ton press + $170 20 ton air over hydraulic jack. I got those about 6-8 years ago and seems like they were half what they are now although I did catch them on a sale. Seems like a lot of work unless you already have the parts and just like to build.
At that price I would consider!
 

Firebrick43

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May 12, 2015
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West central Indiana
51MWuJHHVYL._AC_SY550_.jpg

OTC makes a small press that is porta power based.

Really nice little press. I am sorry but I don't work at the place that had a pair of them any more to take dimensions but it was pretty light weight.

Home shop machinist magazine has had several press designs published over the years, give me some time and I will see if I can find one for you
 

cannuck

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Nov 30, 2021
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Rural SK
I don't think my use of press is unique, and I actually manufactured a short run of one of my designs for a national account, but IMHO you really need open ends of the frame work. I find that I use my little 20 ton a lot to straighten shafts or bend tubing. All requires open ends once the part is (for me) over 24". My other advice is to take a while to decide what is important to you and spend the time and/or money to get it right. You are liable to be living and working with this tool for the rest of your life. After all, you would marry the first ********* you saw.....er....maybe don't answer that one.
 

Firebrick43

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West central Indiana
I don't think my use of press is unique, and I actually manufactured a short run of one of my designs for a national account, but IMHO you really need open ends of the frame work. I find that I use my little 20 ton a lot to straighten shafts or bend tubing. All requires open ends once the part is (for me) over 24". My other advice is to take a while to decide what is important to you and spend the time and/or money to get it right. You are liable to be living and working with this tool for the rest of your life. After all, you would marry the first ********* you saw.....er....maybe don't answer that one.
Requires open ends because of the design?

Or because its mounted solid and you hit the wall?

Have a picture?
 
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bradthefixer

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Nov 2, 2022
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29
I don't think my use of press is unique, and I actually manufactured a short run of one of my designs for a national account, but IMHO you really need open ends of the frame work. I find that I use my little 20 ton a lot to straighten shafts or bend tubing. All requires open ends once the part is (for me) over 24". My other advice is to take a while to decide what is important to you and spend the time and/or money to get it right. You are liable to be living and working with this tool for the rest of your life. After all, you would marry the first ********* you saw.....er....maybe don't answer that one.
That's what I'm looking for, what is/has worked out for you with a press. Good point "open sides" for support while straightening, that will be included in my build. I've used several different presses at different shops or friends that have a press and not a one of them had any type of deflection screen to stop a missile launch. All the support and set up can't guarantee you won't have a missile. I think an expanded metal easy on/off guard will be incorporated as well.
 

speed bump

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May 28, 2008
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Location
Butte Montana
This forum doesn't want to attach photos but looking at our 20 ton shop built press they used C6 channel with a 1/2x3 strap for a strong back for the columns. The top piece is a W8x13 gusseted where the ram mount is (I would skip this and just use C10x15 channel). The bed is c8x18.75

One thing I like is they welded cleats on to hold the bed versus drilling the c channel flanges.

You will need a cylinder mounting block and then I would mount that to a piece of 1"+ steel to mount the cylinder.
 

cannuck

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Rural SK
That's what I'm looking for, what is/has worked out for you with a press. Good point "open sides" for support while straightening, that will be included in my build. I've used several different presses at different shops or friends that have a press and not a one of them had any type of deflection screen to stop a missile launch. All the support and set up can't guarantee you won't have a missile. I think an expanded metal easy on/off guard will be incorporated as well.
I don't use protective screen on my 20 ton but absolutely all possible times with 100 ton.
 

Monza Harry

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Dec 29, 2018
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Location
Windsor ON
I never worry about somebody else's designs I figure it out as I go. However with the stored energy that can be generated by an "H" frame press, copying a known design isn't a bad plan at all [actually a great idea]. So find a retailer, or wholesalers with something on the sales floor to gauge x by y and wallstock material sizes by "that (?")" span. HF always has a few to start you out but Torin, Sunnex, OTC etc. all make a variety of presses to fuel your build/imagination. Expecting someone to have a ready made design of exactly your dream is a "BIG" ask. There are literally dozens of builds here to adapt to your needs/tastes. Your main concerns from my seat here across the net are uprights, cross members [span specific per tonnage critical] overall height less so (not necessarily insignificant). Then you need a mount that is upto your rams strength. Most here that aren't engineers or savvy to charts listing strengths will look at a commercially built one and "overbuild" theirs from there. As for a safety screen as stated expanded wire screen as well as cookie racks barbecue racks etc. can be bought, used or modified to suit. [I purchased some barbecue racks years ago made from ~5/16" wire with about 1" spacing, those would be adequate for many jobs, so just watch and think outside the box so to speak. My other advice is to make your openings as large as possible ie: HF press is ~20" between the uprights my Torin is 24½" still I can see some jobs of my own design that will not fit in it. I like the pressure gauge idea mentioned above, and I wish the sliding ram wouldn't require a near complete rebuild of my press. I also plan to add the boat winch idea on this forum for the table height adjustment, thre are a few things I am saying you should consider or make provisions to add later. The world (or presses) wasn't built in "a" day! Harry
 
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bigcreek

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May 11, 2013
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387
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Idaho
Mine is an OTC brand. I realize it is alot bigger than what you are wanting to make but throwing a picture on here wont hurt. This has 44" between uprights and I still find projects sometimes that wont fit but the majority do. As you can see there is not a safety screen which can be a little hairy if pressing a smallish part that could possibly fly, so when pressure is applied I move to the side and keep a leg of the press between me and part and hope for the best. :) IMG_6220.JPG
 
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bradthefixer

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Joined
Nov 2, 2022
Messages
29
I never worry about somebody else's designs I figure it out as I go. However with the stored energy that can be generated by an "H" frame press, copying a known design isn't a bad plan at all [actually a great idea]. So find a retailer, or wholesalers with something on the sales floor to gauge x by y and wallstock material sizes by "that (?")" span. HF always has a few to start you out but Torin, Sunnex, OTC etc. all make a variety of presses to fuel your build/imagination. Expecting someone to have a ready made design of exactly your dream is a "BIG" ask. There are literally dozens of builds here to adapt to your needs/tastes. Your main concerns from my seat here across the net are uprights, cross members [span specific per tonnage critical] overall height less so (not necessarily insignificant). Then you need a mount that is upto your rams strength. Most here that aren't engineers or savvy to charts listing strengths will look at a commercially built one and "overbuild" theirs from there. As for a safety screen as stated expanded wire screen as well as cookie racks barbecue racks etc. can be bought, used or modified to suit. [I purchased some barbecue racks years ago made from ~5/16" wire with about 1" spacing, those would be adequate for many jobs, so just watch and think outside the box so to speak. My other advice is to make your openings as large as possible ie: HF press is ~20" between the uprights my Torin is 24½" still I can see some jobs of my own design that will not fit in it. I like the pressure gauge idea mentioned above, and I wish the sliding ram wouldn't require a near complete rebuild of my press. I also plan to add the boat winch idea on this forum for the table height adjustment, thre are a few things I am saying you should consider or make provisions to add later. The world (or presses) wasn't built in "a" day! Harry
Thanks Harry, I have read some good ideas here since posting. I have looked at and measured retail presses and that's when I decided to ask if anyone has the ultimate home press design already figured out, but that is all about personal perveance I know. Its just kinda fun to read what others have done or the changes to an existing press. Awesome cleaver people here!
 

sparkness

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Nov 29, 2013
Messages
131
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Long Island, NY
here is what I built using c channel and cold rolled flat bar, I also did not want the HF -too flimsy
 

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bradthefixer

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Nov 2, 2022
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here is what I built using c channel and cold rolled flat bar, I also did not want the HF -too flimsy
Flat bar pass through side supports and sliding ram, outstand build! Thanks for sharing I'll put your pic with a few others.
 

All

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Mar 28, 2013
Messages
606
when I drilled the holes I welded all 4 pieces of flat together and used a annular cutter.

In a drill press?
With a mag drill?
Or by ?

Also, what is the diameter of the holes for the pins?

Did hole diameter influence pin material selection?

Fantastic looking press you built there.
 

sparkness

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Nov 29, 2013
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Location
Long Island, NY
I drilled in a milling machine 7/8" and I used 4140 Pre-Hard Cold Roll for the pins , I set the pump up to put out 3200 PSI which gives 20 ton on a 4" cylinder
 
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All

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Mar 28, 2013
Messages
606
Thanks @sparkness

How thick were the flat bars you used for the uprights?

And for anyone who has additional thoughts...

What is the rule of thumb for distributed purchase area of the pins on the thickness of the holes in the uprights to prevent wallowing of the holes?

I have a so called 50T press where the uprights are 1/4" material, and I see evidence of hole distortion at 6 o'clock of each hole that was heavily used by the prior owner.

While the adage of as beefy as possible is always a safe fall back position, the cost of material, new and used, encourages one to try and calculate what is necessary for the highest expected pressure, and build to that, plus a reasonable safety margin, but no more... to save on material cost and weight whenever having to move the thing around.

I am considering adding material to the uprights of the press that I have, and thus am curious what additional thickness would withstand the pressure applied presuming a 7/8" diameter press pin, and how that might change if the press pin were say, 1.125" in diameter instead.
 

sparkness

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Nov 29, 2013
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Long Island, NY
My uprights are 3 x 1/2" 1018 cold rolled and the holes are 7/8" and the pins are 7/8" I had to hone the holes with a flap wheel. I have no distortion on these holes. the 3" uprights with 7/8 holes have a yield strength of 140 tons
 
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