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Shop Radio problem

homebuilt burner

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Dec 8, 2014
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My father built a new shop about 10 years ago. And 3 years ago when his employer of 50 years closed he started working full time in his shop(tractor repair). At that time I installed a cell phone booster, as we were always dropping calls inside the metal building, and an exterior FM antenea. Everything worked great, great phone and radio reception. Then about a year ago we started replaceing the 8ft flourescent light bulbs and balast. Now we have crappy FM reception when the lights are on. Been to Radio Shack no help there. Anybody have a cure??
 
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laser3kw

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northen IL
common problem.
there are many similar posts over in electrical forum addressing this issue.

Then about a year ago we started replaceing the 8ft flourescent light bulbs and balast.

Usually, it is the quality of the ballast. But don't rule out the obvious like wiring issues such as loose connections or dicey grounding. I wouldn't rely solely on conduit connections as grounding. If you have a noise issue, I would have a dedicated ground wire, single wire, pig tail to each fixture (there usually is a spot provided) and ran back to the panel. That is how I did mine I have no FM noise issues.
 
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joelowrider

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Owensboro, KY
I am not sure but it sounds like the electronic ballast are giving off noise you had magnetic ballast before

Try to run sheilded cable out to your antenna might help
 

Hugh in NC

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In my recliner, NC
I had the same problem when I switched to T8 lights and fixtures. Search for previous topics in the lighting and electrical forum, it has been beat to death. I ended up just getting sat. radio, best thing I have ever done for listening pleasure.

Hugh
 

joelowrider

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The FIB

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Residential rated ballasts are designed to put out a lot less rf noise, you probably installed the commercial type ballast.
 
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H

homebuilt burner

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I'll have to check on the ballast. I knew it had something to do with that but did not know there was a difference. As far as the iphone app and sat. radio, dad is still using the jitterbug phone so not really an option. lol it kills me when it rings. the light fixtures are fully grounded not just to the conduit ther is a ground wire back to the panel. Thanks for all the ideas.
 

SALIV8

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chicago and s/w michigan
try this also,

I ran a stranded copper wire (14ga i think) from the end of the radio antenna, to a couple loops around the emt nearest to the radio. I only stripped the ends of the wire and it works like a charm.

worth a shot at least. its cheaper than swapping ballasts.
 
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bookman51

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Kearney, Nebraska
I had the same problem when I had t-5 lights installed in my shop. I had asked the wholesaler ahead of time and they said no problem....but they were wrong.

One solution would be to take out commercial ballast lights and put in residential.

What I did was put a shield coaxial cable to a remote antenna and bought a used surround system and receiver via craiglists. Now I have better sound in my shop than I do in my house. I got the antenna (regular TV antenna) from local tv outfit. A plastic piece on it had been broken, and the manufacture would not replace it. So I got the antenna cheap and I fabricated an other piece for the one that was broken. Also, I trenched and buried the cable to the remote antenna about 75 feet away from my shop. I live out in the country so no problem. In town you might have a problem with a remote antenna.
 

83c10submariner

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Nova Scotia
Run coax cable to the antenna from the radio. Strip a piece of the coax cable near the radio. Connect the braided part of coax to ground using copper wire. This will fix your problem garented. Coax cable is the same as cable to your tv it's cheep.
 
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homebuilt burner

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central Wisconsin
The FM antenna is mounted on the outside of the building and the coax is run through the wall. The antenna is the crossbar style from radio shack. I will try grounding the coax. What is shielded cable, I am not fimilar with that term? I was just wondering if I could ground the coax through an outlet( on the ground terminal).
 

Labradorian

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Pembroke, ON
The FM antenna is mounted on the outside of the building and the coax is run through the wall. The antenna is the crossbar style from radio shack. I will try grounding the coax. What is shielded cable, I am not fimilar with that term? I was just wondering if I could ground the coax through an outlet( on the ground terminal).

Shielded Cable?....... Copied from Wikipedia...

A shielded cable is an electrical cable of one or more insulated conductors enclosed by a common conductive layer. The shield may be composed of braided strands of copper (or other metal, such as aluminium), a non-braided spiral winding of copper tape, or a layer of conducting polymer. Usually this shield is covered with a jacket. The shield acts as a Faraday cage to reduce electrical noise from affecting the signals, and to reduce electromagnetic radiation that may interfere with other devices. (For more, see electromagnetic interference). The shield minimizes capacitively coupled noise from other electrical sources. The shield must be applied across cable splices.

In shielded signal cables the shield may act as the return path for the signal, or may act as screening only.

High voltage power cables with solid insulation are shielded to protect the cable insulation, people and equipment.
 

OJ Bartley

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Toronto, ON
homebuilt burner, this is one of my big fears for my garage too. I've read a lot of the threads here, and elsewhere, and it seems likely that your new ballasts are causing the issue. As has been mentioned above, "residential use" ballasts, while more expensive, emit less RFI and shouldn't cause any noise in your reception.

The funny thing is, nobody seems to know about them. I've talked to everyone from the random workers at Home Depot to a large electrical/lighting supplier who has been in the business for years, and everyone insists that there is no difference, that "residential" ballasts don't exist, or they've never heard of them.

There are a few good threads on here, where people mention the exact ballasts they have used with good results. IIRC, there is a certain code or suffix to look for in the ballast model number that will specify it is for residential use.

Edit: Just looked it up... FCC part 15 compliance is what you want. From this thread:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=257381
 

NUTTSGT

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they don't make magnetic ballast anymore they are only making electronic ballast

Honestly, I don't the exact "going ons" inside a ballast but I know some of the ones I bought have a different ballast than the others, which is why I had to move my radio in my garage.

I guess the ballasts are either commercial or residential, with the latter giving off less RFI noise.
 

Rod N

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Keswick, Ontario
I had the same problem and the only way to fix it is replace the ballasts.
Call the manufacturer and they will tell you which one to use.
You are just wasting your time doing anything else.
 

404

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Mass
Try some Ferrite Beads or Cores on the power at each light. These can be chopped of the power cord inside TVs as well as bought from Ebay or Digikey etc.
 

rick carpenter

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Jan 20, 2011
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Huntsville, East Texas
Re shielded cable... not recommending this, not not recommending this, just telling the story. Many years ago in the office at work I had a Mac and a PC. I only wanted one monitor and one keyboard in front of me so we bought a switchbox. Big, expensive, relatively low-tech clunker of a unit. Anyhow, I kept getting ghosting on my monitor. I read up on it, asked questions to I/T, etc. No store-bought solutions available that weren't gawdofful expensive. Budget-approvers would not OK anything else for me because I was done, right? One monitor and one keyboard. No more purchases.

I ended up making my own shielded cable. I applied something to make the shield stand off the cable, then I wrapped it with tinfoil -- once? a few times? I don't remember. Then I attached a ground wire to the tinfoil at the plug end which attached to the center screw at the outlet. Then I wrapped the cable with tape. About the fugliest thing you've ever seen. It either worked well enough or I put so much effort into it that I forced myself to think it did! Anyhow, I lived with it for a good while. Later prices came down for better, smaller, factory-made compatible components all around. This was a long time ago.
 
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