Any thoughts on sharpening the pruning shears?
Bypass pruning shears need sharpening of the blade much more frequently than the hook. I'll touch both up with a small knife steel, and then if necessary, sharpen the blade with a fine flat file.
If I'm trying to revive something badly abused and start an edge from scratch, I'll take it apart and work on each half separately while clamped in a vise. I'll use a fine round file on the hook to get it just right, and the same fine flat file on the blade. I try to avoid separating the halves unless things are really bad though, because then you need to reset the tension.
One note, bypass shears require a SLIGHT back bevel on the blade, so that the blade does not dig into the hook. Felco recommends a 23 degree front bevel, and a 5 degree back bevel. DO NOT use a file on the back bevel. This MUST be stoned, and very gently at that. Don't overdo it. 4 out of 5 sharpenings of the front bevel will not remove enough metal to require more than just steeling the back.
https://www.cutco.com/products/product.jsp?item=super-shears
There is nothing these can't cut. They have videos of them cutting penny's in half. They work great on hard shell lobsters!
I own a pair of Cutco shears. Yes, they will cut a penny, though the pair I own that cut a penny during a salesperson's demonstration was damaged by that maneuver. I had to steel out the nick to get them smooth again. But at over $100 retail, it seems nuts that so will a $2 pair of EMT shears.
For kitchen shears, the Cutco shears are the best I've seen. The way they split for cleaning is second to none, their serrated edge makes for easy cutting of things that would slide out of other shears, like poultry bones, and if you can nick a pair for well under $50 on eBay, you're doing ok.
But I would not suggest them as shop shears.