Shop Tool Set
- Thread starter Codejack
- Start date
I don't know how hard I plan on using it, it just seems like a decently long handle would be of great help. At least, that's what it seems like from using the little 7" model I got from HF.
I actually like the screwdrivers you get for $1 at Lowe's and places; no bolsters, but solid handles, and I had a pair that lasted almost 20 years before one broke while I was using it as a chisel
The Williams set looks good, though, so I will check them out.
You have them. Why not use them and tell us if they rate among the gems or the dreck?
I don't have expensive or name brand drivers at all but actually found some Asain imports I simply can't wear out. So I got more to have them in all kits.
You won't need a 57 pc screwdriver set. You will never use 30 of them and will only wear out two. Put the extra spending where it has better effect.
I used to buy bigger sets to sell off the odd ones so I got the two I wanted for free or with profits. Lol!
I don't have expensive or name brand drivers at all but actually found some Asain imports I simply can't wear out. So I got more to have them in all kits.
You won't need a 57 pc screwdriver set. You will never use 30 of them and will only wear out two. Put the extra spending where it has better effect.
I used to buy bigger sets to sell off the odd ones so I got the two I wanted for free or with profits. Lol!
I have what? I haven't bought any of this set except the 1/4" and 3/8" sockets and the oil filter pliers
Screwdrivers I have:
-Craftsman: Very old, strong, no bolsters, limited set.
-Stanley: New, decent, still no bolsters, fuller set.
-Generic parts/hardware store: Weird, often very good, but no bolsters and only one each of philips and flat head.
-Pittsburgh (Harbor Freight): Bleh. OK, I guess; magnetic tip versions aren't very magnetic, fit is not good, handles ****.
I don't need the hugest selection in the world, but at the very least I need #2 and #3 philips with bolsters and a few flat heads.
That being said, what does everyone think of this set?
Wera Screwdriver set and rack, 6-piece, $40.
You might consider getting a large cheap set of screwdrivers then a select few good ones depending on your needs. I would avoid the Cman standard screwdrivers. While I feel their sockets and wrenches are generally perfectly serviceable I've always hated the for of their screwdrivers in the screw. Conversely my cheap, generic set of drivers seems to work nicely.
williams is damn nice set and ideal for mechanics best set.
I quite like wera but don't think they best design for mechanics set .
Back to long 1/4 ratchet, I got into it with ezred extendable flexihead set, still use them but found even longer 1/4 would be good and compact so snapon it was mainly as knew I would push it hard and fact snappy dealer done a good price as I was tyre kicking over that purchase lol . Is very decent and better than the ezred similar design 72T version (same pawl layout as HF 72T) ezred has QR and could see me snapping drive square on an almost 11" 1/4 ratchet . ezred is cheap way test one out and see it's use to you .
I quite like wera but don't think they best design for mechanics set .
Back to long 1/4 ratchet, I got into it with ezred extendable flexihead set, still use them but found even longer 1/4 would be good and compact so snapon it was mainly as knew I would push it hard and fact snappy dealer done a good price as I was tyre kicking over that purchase lol . Is very decent and better than the ezred similar design 72T version (same pawl layout as HF 72T) ezred has QR and could see me snapping drive square on an almost 11" 1/4 ratchet . ezred is cheap way test one out and see it's use to you .
The Williams screwdriver set is definitely in contention. The thing I like about those Weras are the hammer caps on the end.
I found the EZred ratchet:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GDJ7B4K/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Really, I want the length less for torque and more for access and convenience; I've got the short HF 1/4" flex head, but a few extra inches of length would let it get to a few places much more easily.
And HF makes long 3/8" and 1/2" flex head ratchets, just not in 1/4", so I'll just grab those locally
I found the EZred ratchet:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GDJ7B4K/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Really, I want the length less for torque and more for access and convenience; I've got the short HF 1/4" flex head, but a few extra inches of length would let it get to a few places much more easily.
And HF makes long 3/8" and 1/2" flex head ratchets, just not in 1/4", so I'll just grab those locally
toptul do nice screwdriver set with caps .
I get point on more access than leverage on 1/4 but I find tend be pushing it hard when on sizes over 12mm, other plus with snapon is it more rigid thus more usable in tight swing areas . Pretty sure you'll find ezred under 30bucks if hunt around . about same quality as the HF pitts pro in my opinion .
I get point on more access than leverage on 1/4 but I find tend be pushing it hard when on sizes over 12mm, other plus with snapon is it more rigid thus more usable in tight swing areas . Pretty sure you'll find ezred under 30bucks if hunt around . about same quality as the HF pitts pro in my opinion .
powertrip
Well-known member
Everyone is leaving out the gray handled Craftsman diamond tip screwdrivers. Extremely happy with my set. Easy to warranty and they do sell singles on their web site. Screwdrivers are a wear item. Get what's affordable, comfortable and easiest to warranty.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-6-pi...lerId=Sears&prdNo=10&blockNo=10&blockType=G10
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-6-pi...lerId=Sears&prdNo=10&blockNo=10&blockType=G10
Ole Slewfoot
Well-known member
Aside from having all the handles look the same, I don't see much reason for new screwdrivers. Pick up a few for $.50~1.00 at a yard sale or in a bucket o tools, and you have them coming out your ears. I probably haven't bought a new one in 10 years, when one gets wore out it goes to punch/pry duty, and I get a fresh one out of the screwdriver bin. The low grade ones are tossed or given away. Orange and black Stanleys have been good for me lately.
No bolsters, and I hate that style of handle; I am also no fan of Craftsman quality.
I want a solid handle bolster set in at least #2 and #3 philips and a couple of flat heads. Hard caps would be nice. I don't really need a matched set, but at the same time, I would like some decent ones, and to get all the features that I want....
My stanleys are yellow/black, still pretty good, but I've only got a few. I've got several $1 drivers from parts and hardware stores, though. None of them are bolstered, though, leaving me trying to use vise grips on the handle.
Ole Slewfoot
Well-known member
I mostly use my cordless impact where vice grips would come into play.
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cherrybomb
Well-known member
Buy the hard handle Williams screw drivers as your go to driver.Pound,pry scrape,fasten to your cheap stuff.You can't abuse tools,even the high dollar ones.Even those will eventually let you down.Take your time wrenching and buying tools,it will probably be more enjoyable IMO.What do you think?
Oooh, there we go; thanks!
Absolutely; I may try those toptul first, especially since I can buy them as singles, but I need them for a specific purpose, not as general beater screwdrivers.
Specifically, having a bolstered driver with a hammer cap lets you spray lube on a rusty screw, put the driver on it, tap it a couple of times, then press and turn with a wrench. I do this for brake rotor screws, for example, since I don't have an impact driver, but I also do this on a lot of frame screws on lawn equipment, where an impact driver wouldn't work.
Even an air impact won't help that; you would just strip the screw, and I'm generally replacing it, but I'm not generally drilling the mangled remnants out
Right now, I'm using cheap drivers and visegrips, but it is not an optimal solution.
Now, a sliding T-handle and a bit driver... but I can't find a decent 1/4" sliding t-handle, at all.
Don't you have a manual impact driver on your list? That'll cover what you want to do with the capped and bolstered screwdrivers and do a much better job too. It's much easier to just smack the driver than to worry about smacking the driver with a wrench balanced in your fingers.
slow_mow
Well-known member
Dude, you must be a master mechanic. I think Playskool is the brand for you!
Lol, I have been using Craftsman, so that would be an upgrade
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"Master Mechanic"
25 years, I've been working on cars, now. I've rebuilt engines (not many, and not recently...), swapped transmissions, fabricated turbo piping, etc. I would not call myself a "Master" mechanic, but generally the only things that I cannot accomplish are due to lack of tools, not skill.
That's not all that I do, though; I work on lawn equipment a lot, and it's just a little different. The impact driver, for example, would not work on a rusty lawnmower frame screw: It would bend or break something, and not the screw
And maybe that's why my responses seem kind of weird: Some stuff I absolutely know that I want, because I use it or a workaround frequently (bolstered screwdrivers); some stuff I am not sure about, because I don't use it that often (brake caliper tools); and I'm not necessarily using this stuff for the same things as everyone else.
Please, make recommendations, but don't take it personally if I don't take it
d.mcfarland
Well-known member
Post a picture of your "junk" Craftsman stuff. I'm curious because many here use it and don't have trouble. So let's see what you're comparing some of these other items to.
I agree that the quality of these tools makes me cringe. I think if you have a need for cheap tools OP you just bought a mobile set at that level.
For your shop tools, follow the advice of some others here. Buy better stuff--just don't pay more. The focus on "new" chineese stuff is wrong.
Since you are not paying rent and not being killed by an office job (I assume--as if you were, you'd be in good $$$ position), take your time. Shop flea-bay and ad-hoc sales on CL, gj classifieds, etc.
That, and simply cut back on your "needs". Buy what you can afford, and only as you need it. But don't buy tools you will likely want to upgrade. That is a very expensive interest rate when you replace tools within say 5 years.
Nothing here has a lot of resale value, so unless its 5-10% of the better stuff cost, its all a write off and redundant **** you need to store.
Just some comments:
1) screwdrivers. biggest wast of money ever. $25-30 for german and be done.
2) multimeters. used fluke mil-spec is cheaper that $75
3) wrenches. buy used. tool truck or proto, whatever floats your boat. 7-19mm combo should be hard steel --hrc>40+, and not be junk. lower quality else where is OK to save costs (sae and large wrenches). grade 8 and 12.9 bolts can be upper 30s hrc.
4) diag pliers. buy the knipex upfront, same $$ as channelock. stanley or vise grip pliers are 8-10/ea at wall mart. knipex are 20 at sears on sale.
5) bit sockets. VIM master kit is barely more money than the generic brands. buy the bits from zephyr via apex for <$1/each. best value for non-junk bits.
these are just a couple of small things. I can tell you not having diagonals and screwdrivers you want to immediately replace will save you way more sanity and frustration (not to mention trashed hardware) than the extra $15-20 upfront.
Oh, you will also need budget torque control and drill bits...and all kinds of other things. Seriously consider a beam troque wrench at your budget level. Never needs calibration and sanity checks your disposable clickers.
For your shop tools, follow the advice of some others here. Buy better stuff--just don't pay more. The focus on "new" chineese stuff is wrong.
Since you are not paying rent and not being killed by an office job (I assume--as if you were, you'd be in good $$$ position), take your time. Shop flea-bay and ad-hoc sales on CL, gj classifieds, etc.
That, and simply cut back on your "needs". Buy what you can afford, and only as you need it. But don't buy tools you will likely want to upgrade. That is a very expensive interest rate when you replace tools within say 5 years.
Nothing here has a lot of resale value, so unless its 5-10% of the better stuff cost, its all a write off and redundant **** you need to store.
Just some comments:
1) screwdrivers. biggest wast of money ever. $25-30 for german and be done.
2) multimeters. used fluke mil-spec is cheaper that $75
3) wrenches. buy used. tool truck or proto, whatever floats your boat. 7-19mm combo should be hard steel --hrc>40+, and not be junk. lower quality else where is OK to save costs (sae and large wrenches). grade 8 and 12.9 bolts can be upper 30s hrc.
4) diag pliers. buy the knipex upfront, same $$ as channelock. stanley or vise grip pliers are 8-10/ea at wall mart. knipex are 20 at sears on sale.
5) bit sockets. VIM master kit is barely more money than the generic brands. buy the bits from zephyr via apex for <$1/each. best value for non-junk bits.
these are just a couple of small things. I can tell you not having diagonals and screwdrivers you want to immediately replace will save you way more sanity and frustration (not to mention trashed hardware) than the extra $15-20 upfront.
Oh, you will also need budget torque control and drill bits...and all kinds of other things. Seriously consider a beam troque wrench at your budget level. Never needs calibration and sanity checks your disposable clickers.
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The remnants of my Craftsman combo wrench set my Dad bought me ~1992:
Here's the 17mm:
And here's the open end:
They are heavy and soft; that damage isn't from abuse. Most of the missing ones broke, and I just threw them away rather than waste time replacing them. Generally, they broke at the joint between the head and the raised panel, but at least one cracked the box end.
The socket set from the same era (1993-94) was even worse; I went through several ratchets in less than a year, and finally tossed it when I broke and replaced the same socket 3 times on the same bolt. The Husky set I replaced it with took that bolt off without a problem.
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I recently replaced that set with these:
On sale, they were $14; they are lighter, stronger and harder than the Craftsman set above.
They aren't great: The finish has some issues, some rough patches on the edges of the chrome, and they are shorter than the Cman set, but the fit is solid and they are strong enough, so far.
Then I grabbed this set:
These aren't very good, at all; I have some wear marks on the 24mm already after pretty light use.
On the other hand, the long handled 17mm and 19mm have been awesome for oil drain plugs, even the sticky Honda ones (although the Miata one was actually on tighter...) and the fit is good. Bad finish, again, but for a $20 set of wrenches....
And they are still better than Craftsman.
This is exactly why you never buy combo wrenches that are not properly hardened.
They need to be well over 40 hrc to be well-above the high-grade bolts. otherwised, the bolts dent the wrenches. other wrenches will spread before they dent, too. or just be so **** they will smear the bolt hardware. this is oddly most problematic on small hardware (of which there is alot). A hard wrench and a soft hardware is much better. Soft of soft is trashed hw. Soft on hard is dented wrench...ect. Too much chrome = soft as well...same issues.
To some extent this is not a money or COO issue. Its a brand issue and knowing what you want/need and are getting from a given brand. I have some nice hardness taiwan tools. Its just the grade of spec from the OEM that counts.
They need to be well over 40 hrc to be well-above the high-grade bolts. otherwised, the bolts dent the wrenches. other wrenches will spread before they dent, too. or just be so **** they will smear the bolt hardware. this is oddly most problematic on small hardware (of which there is alot). A hard wrench and a soft hardware is much better. Soft of soft is trashed hw. Soft on hard is dented wrench...ect. Too much chrome = soft as well...same issues.
To some extent this is not a money or COO issue. Its a brand issue and knowing what you want/need and are getting from a given brand. I have some nice hardness taiwan tools. Its just the grade of spec from the OEM that counts.
Lol, have you seen my mobile set?
From what I'm seeing, the focus on USA-made stuff isn't necessarily any kind of benefit...
I am, I have, and I will continue to, but when I can get equivalent stuff new for less money than that used stuff, e.g. HF ratchets vs GearWrench vs Snap On.
Well, yes and no; paying more for a level of "quality" that I don't need is wasteful, as well. I'm trying to thread that needle, so to speak.
If it's functional, I'll pay 50%; that's the best you'll get for used stuff. A lot of it is closer to 10%, though.
OK, any suggestions? Mr. B turned me on to Toptul, which I can put a pretty nice set together from.
Sure, but it won't do the stuff that one will do, and the Fluke unit that will if $600; if I just need a basic ohm/volt/ammeter, a $10 analog unit will work just fine. This isn't component-level electronic troubleshooting, here.
How do you feel about Wright?
I can get those sets for $440, goes up to 1-1/4" and 24mm.
I don't like Channellock, at all, partially because of the handles, which the Knipex are similar to. I like my Stanleys, and I'm looking at the new Fatmax series they just came out with.
I'm looking at a Gearwrench set:
$60, but they're supposed to be good. The best I can find VIM for is twice that for an equivalent set.
Oh, yea. I've got a second list with kits for ball joints, steering links, bearing pullers, slider hammer, sensor & sending socket set, locking wheel nut sockets, vacuum set, screw extractors... and then it gets into stuff like anvils and
The beam wrench is a good idea, although I can always check the click-style with a tape measure and a set of weights
This is exactly why you never buy combo wrenches that are not properly hardened.
They need to be well over 40 hrc to be well-above the high-grade bolts. otherwised, the bolts dent the wrenches. other wrenches will spread before they dent, too. or just be so **** they will smear the bolt hardware. this is oddly most problematic on small hardware (of which there is alot). A hard wrench and a soft hardware is much better. Soft of soft is trashed hw. Soft on hard is dented wrench...ect. Too much chrome = soft as well...same issues.
To some extent this is not a money or COO issue. Its a brand issue and knowing what you want/need and are getting from a given brand. I have some nice hardness taiwan tools. Its just the grade of spec from the OEM that counts.
Well, I've got a large GearWrench set spec'd out ($160) that ought to do for a while, and then a not-quite-so-large Wright set ($440) that I'll have to save up for.
In the meantime, I'm trying to get a part-time job doing oil changes, batteries and tires, and I think the set I have now ought to be fine for that much.
Is there a list or spec sheet to find hard wrenches? Or do I need to buy samples from each brand and put them through a Rockwell test? I have access to such equipment, so theoretically....
I used and owned a lot of wrenches from many makes and periods.
My favourite is stahlwille, the things are hard with unique plating and not stupidly priced, own wrightgrip set and like them . current Mac not bad, taiwan made same as facom and pretty decent . Don't rate snapon wrenches high with exception to flare nut sets .
I would be inclined skip gearwrench wrenches and go for building up decent set as budget allows, if need infill sizes quick go cheap or used and they'll be rough use/abuse/loaners once quality set completed .
Good pliers are good money, cheap side cutters are never good, CK and knipex been great for me, got old CK 6" cutters I had off a truck 2 decades ago and they still good today . jaw tooth hardness, bite and allignment on cheap pliers never that impressive but you certainly don't need every plier top quality, I got some cheap ones such as unbranded 11" long nose sets and circlip plier sets and not broke or struggled due to them yet .
Don't buy to much stuff on infill basis as just upping cost too much and slowing down purchase of stuff best buying first time round.
Don't really see much harm in your fat max plier set though, if don't do as expected easy enough grow plier range and replace what find most used useful plier with something better .
Toptul screwdrivers seem sensible option to me and should fill your criteria and far from waste of money (snapon would be a waste), have a look in the current vise grip thread as member who US dealer is posting in that thread .
My favourite is stahlwille, the things are hard with unique plating and not stupidly priced, own wrightgrip set and like them . current Mac not bad, taiwan made same as facom and pretty decent . Don't rate snapon wrenches high with exception to flare nut sets .
I would be inclined skip gearwrench wrenches and go for building up decent set as budget allows, if need infill sizes quick go cheap or used and they'll be rough use/abuse/loaners once quality set completed .
Good pliers are good money, cheap side cutters are never good, CK and knipex been great for me, got old CK 6" cutters I had off a truck 2 decades ago and they still good today . jaw tooth hardness, bite and allignment on cheap pliers never that impressive but you certainly don't need every plier top quality, I got some cheap ones such as unbranded 11" long nose sets and circlip plier sets and not broke or struggled due to them yet .
Don't buy to much stuff on infill basis as just upping cost too much and slowing down purchase of stuff best buying first time round.
Don't really see much harm in your fat max plier set though, if don't do as expected easy enough grow plier range and replace what find most used useful plier with something better .
Toptul screwdrivers seem sensible option to me and should fill your criteria and far from waste of money (snapon would be a waste), have a look in the current vise grip thread as member who US dealer is posting in that thread .
d.mcfarland
Well-known member
Where do you work now and what would the tire/oil/lube job be for?
What's your purpose of this set of tools? Because if I could pick between used truck brand tools or brand new Harbor Freight, I'm not going to pick Horror Freight, and I have and use HF stuff. Nothing wrong with their items for light use, but I'm not going to try and make money daily with it.
What's your purpose of this set of tools? Because if I could pick between used truck brand tools or brand new Harbor Freight, I'm not going to pick Horror Freight, and I have and use HF stuff. Nothing wrong with their items for light use, but I'm not going to try and make money daily with it.
I fix and flip cars and lawn equipment out of my house; the part time job is to fund that
This set is meant to be a general service set to make me money while I save up for my own shop/lot, at which point I can start worrying about the brand and country of origin of my tools. I am currently working out of a one car garage/shop with tools I've gathered over 25 years, that I am trying to upgrade to decent until I can afford a $200/week tool truck payment.
My HF ratchets are amazing; the sockets are good, but limited. Most other things, not so great, which is why I am agonizing over them.
That, and I'm dirt poor and the world's biggest cheapskate
The idea is that this stuff will either work and last or be upgraded, and I am betting that enough of it will be serviceable enough that I will come out cheaper than buying everything in top quality in the first place.
d.mcfarland
Well-known member
I fix and flip cars and lawn equipment out of my house; the part time job is to fund that
This set is meant to be a general service set to make me money while I save up for my own shop/lot, at which point I can start worrying about the brand and country of origin of my tools. I am currently working out of a one car garage/shop with tools I've gathered over 25 years, that I am trying to upgrade to decent until I can afford a $200/week tool truck payment.
In another thread of yours you talk about having multiple tool boxes full of tools working out of multiple locations.
You upgraded from "bad" Craftsman to Harbor Freight and called them your first "pro tools".
This story doesn't add up.
I'm going to bow out because I can lead a horse to water but can't make them drink it.
Well, sorry.
Yes, I work in multiple places; I have a one car garage that I can use, if the car isn't too big. The trucks I was flipping over the summer were too big, so I worked at my parents or my brothers places.
I have multiple boxes: A chest/seat/stool with pliers, screwdrivers, hammers, etc; a 3-drawer box with sockets, ratchets and wrenches; and a bag with impact driver, breaker bar, and whatever else I need to drag around, e.g. this week I will be using the angle grinder and sander at my parents house. I have posted pictures of most of it.
The Cman tools were garbage; they broke without accomplishing the task. Personally, I think that I bought them during a particularly bad period in their production, and others have supported the contention, but I have no interest in throwing more money down that particular hole.
The HF ratchets are 90% as good as Snap On; I should know, I have a SO GF80. On GearWrench impact sockets, they qualify as "pro." I couldn't get decent wrenches in budget, so I punted. Better ones are high on this list.
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D., you asked about my old Cman tools, so I posted pictures of them, and you ignored it; you called my list "cheap," but when I asked for alternative suggestions, the only thing you came up with were Williams over SK screwdrivers, which I am still considering, but I like those Toptul drivers better.
I can go get $10,000 worth of tools on credit and have everything that I need (which there are a dozen threads and videos telling me NOT to do); I can slowly piece things together used and go without until I find them for half the price; or I can spend $1,500 out of pocket and another $3,500 upgrading and replacing things as they break or fail, have most of the things that I need sooner, and wind up with good enough quality new stuff for the same price as used.
I am not a flat rate mechanic.
If I get halfway into a job and a tool breaks or fails to perform, it's not the end of the world. Inconvenient, yes, mostly because I live in the boonies and it's a 20 minute drive to a parts store (in any of 3 different directions; the only thing close is an Ace Hardware), but that just means that I will be working late that night.
And that rarely happened even with my old tools; I am pretty good at workarounds, but I'm trying to build up enough of a set that I don't need workarounds, and I'll upgrade from there.
Please, explain, in words that a 5-year-old can understand, what is the issue with this plan?
Yes, I work in multiple places; I have a one car garage that I can use, if the car isn't too big. The trucks I was flipping over the summer were too big, so I worked at my parents or my brothers places.
I have multiple boxes: A chest/seat/stool with pliers, screwdrivers, hammers, etc; a 3-drawer box with sockets, ratchets and wrenches; and a bag with impact driver, breaker bar, and whatever else I need to drag around, e.g. this week I will be using the angle grinder and sander at my parents house. I have posted pictures of most of it.
The Cman tools were garbage; they broke without accomplishing the task. Personally, I think that I bought them during a particularly bad period in their production, and others have supported the contention, but I have no interest in throwing more money down that particular hole.
The HF ratchets are 90% as good as Snap On; I should know, I have a SO GF80. On GearWrench impact sockets, they qualify as "pro." I couldn't get decent wrenches in budget, so I punted. Better ones are high on this list.
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D., you asked about my old Cman tools, so I posted pictures of them, and you ignored it; you called my list "cheap," but when I asked for alternative suggestions, the only thing you came up with were Williams over SK screwdrivers, which I am still considering, but I like those Toptul drivers better.
I can go get $10,000 worth of tools on credit and have everything that I need (which there are a dozen threads and videos telling me NOT to do); I can slowly piece things together used and go without until I find them for half the price; or I can spend $1,500 out of pocket and another $3,500 upgrading and replacing things as they break or fail, have most of the things that I need sooner, and wind up with good enough quality new stuff for the same price as used.
I am not a flat rate mechanic.
If I get halfway into a job and a tool breaks or fails to perform, it's not the end of the world. Inconvenient, yes, mostly because I live in the boonies and it's a 20 minute drive to a parts store (in any of 3 different directions; the only thing close is an Ace Hardware), but that just means that I will be working late that night.
And that rarely happened even with my old tools; I am pretty good at workarounds, but I'm trying to build up enough of a set that I don't need workarounds, and I'll upgrade from there.
Please, explain, in words that a 5-year-old can understand, what is the issue with this plan?
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d.mcfarland
Well-known member
The problem is your logic is irrational. You're saying that the Craftsman are junk and you hate them. Then you replace them with 2 different sets from Harbor Freight and now are looking to replace them again with a $400 set of Wright wrenches.
I'm so confused, your only job is flipping cars/equipment and you don't have the intellect to just buy the quality items the first time around?
My best advice would be to read the many many threads on tool recommended tools to buy on this website. You will find the information that will lead you right to the best deals/value/quality/etc.
cherrybomb
Well-known member
I'm from the old school,I fail to see how you are ahead in buying cheaper GW and later upgrading to Wright.160.00 new,then you will be extremely lucky to get 50.00 for them used.50.00 plus over 400.00, Do the math 400.00 plus 110.00 actual cost.Unless you need the GW for another site,buy the Wrights,they won't fail you,spend the 110.00 towards another quality product,this upgrade style of tool buying actually costs you.The resale value of tools is not always what you hope.Learn to research and buy quality in your most used and critical tools.You are trying to make money,I commend you for that.Turning tools over by upgrades,IMO doesn't focus you on the big picture,your career. Good luck.
The Craftsman didn't get the job done; the HF ones do, but they aren't great; the GWs are supposed to be pretty good, but if they don't last, Wright is on the list.
How is that irrational?
The "intellect" to throw away thousands of dollars on a level of quality tools that I won't need for 75% of them?
But then you want me to ignore all of the ones that tell me to do it the way that I am doing it.
To me, that sounds "irrational."
Well, bomb, I don't have the $400 to blow on wrenches right now, not to mention everything else on the list, so here are my options as I see them:
1. I can buy everything off the tool truck on credit, but the sheer number of videos and threads telling me not to do this is staggering.
2. I can go without and deal with the damage and lost time not having the right tools results in, while I waste more time scouring want ads and pawn shops for "good" tools (although there doesn't seem to be any agreement as to what exactly this means or which brands qualify) for half price.
3. I can buy reasonably priced 2nd-tier stuff, and upgrade what breaks or doesn't work as it happens, until I have everything in "good enough" quality, and I'm betting that I come out for far less money.
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Again, I'm not a flat rate mechanic; if anyone knows a place that will hire a 40-year-old unemployed physicist with no formal automotive training as a line mechanic, please let me know, and I will seriously consider option #1.
Option #2 is happening right now, and is ongoing; I'm not finding the stuff I need/want, though. The local pawn shops are a ripoff, ebay's prices on this stuff isn't great, and I'm in a small market so CL doesn't have much, either.
That leaves option #3, which came out of exactly the process you recommend:
"Learn to research and buy quality in your most used and critical tools"
Please, take a few minutes to go back and read this thread and the linked thread in the OP; I have been researching and agonizing over this stuff for months, already, and it's not going to end until I actually have the money to buy all Snap On if I wanted.
I don't want, though.
Maybe this is the issue: I do not care what the name or COO on my tools is; I would rather it be USA-made, but only because that means a job for someone closer to me.
I am not buying the quality argument. What do mechanics in Taiwan do, exactly?
Are they ordering Matco and Stahlwille wrenches? On their salaries?! Not a chance.
Are they only working on small vehicles with low torque parts that don't require high quality tools? Absurd; they have trucks and construction vehicles if nothing else.
Or, are some Taiwan tools absolutely good enough to get the job done? This is what I am looking for.
Lol lot of matco stuff will be taiwan . Same with mac and facom .
Bottom line is a lot of taiwan stuff will be good enough and some of it equal to current tool truck offerings.
ratchets, socketry, some pliers, screwdrivers all good enough if selective on taiwan options. I don't rate gearwrench wrenches too high and only taiwan wrenches I really like are mac and facom but stahlwille better for my personal preference and same if not cheaper price. My opinion on wrenches was same in your mobile kit thread, no cheaper wrenches any good for pro. pitts pro socketry and ratchets do well and with current warranty not waste of funds as you get complete new tool easily, quickly, locally 7 days a week if breaks.
I also not had huge luck on used hand tools, had few bits over last 25yrs but no way could of built up requirements via mainly used quality brands, Done well on used truck boxes though and flipped few of them to fund tool purchases .
Not everything can be cheap, buy once cry once is cheaper and buying mid range brands when is a good enough tool for your use is cheaper also.
In your wrench scenario I would work out if metric or sae more useful and buy that set first and make use of what cheap ones you already got till earned enough finish a quality full wrench upgrade .
I started out mixing cheaper brands when not wanting tool debt and still have lot of cheaper brand tools working just fine. Many mechanics the same and for example will see a range of plier brands from chinese junk to USA and Europe perfection and they all usable if took some care on selection. Just be selective and buy at best deals/promo prices and buy more likely warranty item with usable friendly/convenient warranty .
At end of day it your money and your usage, money going dictate a lot but be patient and hold out for some tools as will save money and time in the long picture.
Bottom line is a lot of taiwan stuff will be good enough and some of it equal to current tool truck offerings.
ratchets, socketry, some pliers, screwdrivers all good enough if selective on taiwan options. I don't rate gearwrench wrenches too high and only taiwan wrenches I really like are mac and facom but stahlwille better for my personal preference and same if not cheaper price. My opinion on wrenches was same in your mobile kit thread, no cheaper wrenches any good for pro. pitts pro socketry and ratchets do well and with current warranty not waste of funds as you get complete new tool easily, quickly, locally 7 days a week if breaks.
I also not had huge luck on used hand tools, had few bits over last 25yrs but no way could of built up requirements via mainly used quality brands, Done well on used truck boxes though and flipped few of them to fund tool purchases .
Not everything can be cheap, buy once cry once is cheaper and buying mid range brands when is a good enough tool for your use is cheaper also.
In your wrench scenario I would work out if metric or sae more useful and buy that set first and make use of what cheap ones you already got till earned enough finish a quality full wrench upgrade .
I started out mixing cheaper brands when not wanting tool debt and still have lot of cheaper brand tools working just fine. Many mechanics the same and for example will see a range of plier brands from chinese junk to USA and Europe perfection and they all usable if took some care on selection. Just be selective and buy at best deals/promo prices and buy more likely warranty item with usable friendly/convenient warranty .
At end of day it your money and your usage, money going dictate a lot but be patient and hold out for some tools as will save money and time in the long picture.
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