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d.mcfarland

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Responses in red.
Again, I'm not a flat rate mechanic; if anyone knows a place that will hire a 40-year-old unemployed physicist with no formal automotive training as a line mechanic, please let me know, and I will seriously consider option #1.

Plot twist.

I am not buying the quality argument. What do mechanics in Taiwan do, exactly?

They don't buy the stuff they make for the American consumer, that's already been discussed.

Or, are some Taiwan tools absolutely good enough to get the job done? This is what I am looking for.

Yes, but you aren't listening to what people are recommending.
 
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SuitorsGarage

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Codejack,
For years I worked on vehicles and such for people at night and on weekends. I know what you are going thru trying to find the best bang for your buck. My day job paid the bills and anything extra we wanted or needed was earned at night. I had a lot of tools but not much top of the line. I used craftsman mostly because of the warranty if needed.
Reading your two threads, I'll give you my input. The shop tools should be something that you enjoy using. Using something that you think ***** makes the job ****. On the other hand, getting the job done with what you have is also rewarding and no profit was spend on tools. I would not have dedicated tools to work outside of your garage. My portable boxes were always kept empty and filled for the task that I needed to go do. Keep those jobs simple and do everything that you can at your garage. Concentrate on your garage even if it may not be permanent, you will always need a garage by the sound of what your long term goal is. Use the hand tools that you have and start saving for stuff like a good compressor, torches, welder...etc. Upgrade later.
 

Yarpo

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Starting this post from scratch, but I can tell you whats in our two work trucks, as far as boxes and tools and they're not all Snap on. We use these tools DAILY and have very rarely broken anything except our Craftsman Dead blow hammer, that thing is junk.

I know you dislike craftsman, but my boss uses a Snap on box with ALL craftsman tools, From sockets (1/4, 3/8 and 1/2) to ratchets, to pliers (USA) and prybars(USA) and the guy is one of the best mechanics I know. He has Snap on Snap ring pliers, and dewalt cordless tools. Everything else is craftsman including his wrenches and crescent wrenches. Screwdrivers and nut drivers are also craftsman, his craftsman screwdrivers are red/black and blue/black craftsman soft handle screwdrivers that I'd never seen before. Craftsman ball peen hammers and ridgid pipe wrenches.

The other tool box is a HF 56" with a mix of everything. Harbor freight impact sockets, GP impacts, Snap on 1/4" impacts, Snap on swivel sockets, craftsman chrome sockets. Snap on / craftsman ratchets. Craftsman full polished wrenches and gearwrench ratcheting wrenches and stubby ratcheting wrenches. Pliers are everything from Snap on to Channel lock. Also using craftsman ball peen hammers and prybars in this box. Snap on screwdrivers and torx drivers.

I like you wanted to maximize my money and went for a middle of the road approach and bought craftsman/HF/Gearwrench sockets. Snap on / GW ratchets, gearwrench wrenches and ratcheting wrenches. Craftsman prybars. I went with Craftsman screwdrivers but I'm upgrading those to snap on for my regular and torx screwdrivers, I'd find something in between if you want, but I really like the snap on screwdrivers. I have all Milwaukee cordless tools, and my pliers are Channel lock and other off brands. Mind you, my tools are NOT being used everyday because we're mobile and work out of the other two boxes so I can't comment on how they will hold up but being I did a bit o research and use those other tools religiously I had a good idea of what would and wouldn't work for me.

I see no problem in buying a decent set of tools and upgrading what breaks, but I cannot comment on how great or good most of those tools on your list are. Given most people have said what to change, they are probably onto something. I did buy Capri hex bits, but haven't used them but once. We're using craftsman in both boxes and they're "ok" but definitely not good. For what its worth, working out of the second box listed here is definitely better. I often get annoyed when using some of my bosses tools, but nothing that has stopped me from completing a job. Good on you for doing research tho, hopefully you'll avoid some suffering and find what works for you :D
 
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Codejack

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See, what am I supposed to take from the last 3 posts?

If Craftsman is "good enough," then the stuff I have spec'd out is overkill.

I have both Cman and Channellock tools, and they are garbage. Regular Stanley sockets and pliers are better.

Maybe I should just buy all Stanley from Walmart.
 
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Codejack

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you aren't listening to what people are recommending.

No, I'm not listening to what YOU are recommending, because you have not responded to any of my questions or points with specific arguments ; you have called my list cheap, questioned my intellect, and are now being rude because I'm taking other people's suggestions but not yours.

Well, I can't take everyone's advice. Make a better argument.
 

Yarpo

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See, what am I supposed to take from the last 3 posts?

If Craftsman is "good enough," then the stuff I have spec'd out is overkill.

I have both Cman and Channellock tools, and they are garbage. Regular Stanley sockets and pliers are better.

Maybe I should just buy all Stanley from Walmart.

All the Craftsman tools in my bosses box are Craftsman USA and almost certainly good enough. Im not sure how you broke a bunch of stuff but I've used these tools for 3 years since working here and no idea how long he had them previously. The Craftsman china stuff I've bought is indeed junk, but I like their USA stuff. I still would choose gearwrench sockets over the Craftsman, but can't comment on how good tekton really is.

I can't comment on the work you will do, so maybe you will abuse these more than us (Emergency Vehicle technician)
 
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Codejack

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Yea, all my Cman stuff was USA, as are my Channelocks. I broke the sockets and wrenches on my old Honda Accord, and at least one on my 84 Volvo.

For that matter, my Kobalt/Williams set is USA made, and while it's much better than my Cman stuff, I broke a few of its sockets.

I need better, so I'm buying GW impact sockets.

Wrenches, pliers and screwdrivers are trickier, hence the argument.
 

d.mcfarland

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No, I'm not listening to what YOU are recommending

Well, I can't take everyone's advice. Make a better argument.

I have both Cman and Channellock tools, and they are garbage. Regular Stanley sockets and pliers are better.

Maybe I should just buy all Stanley from Walmart.

Point made. You are not changing your views no matter what anyone says.

Good luck with your search.
 
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Codejack

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Well, I'm not paying a premium for inferior tools just because they say, "USA" on the side of them, that's for damned sure.

Again, make an argument, or don't comment; don't come over all passive aggressive.
 

Mr_B

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wrenches are trickier, screwdrivers not so tricky it just finding ones that meets quality and design you want. pliers are bit tricky but an ideal area for a mix, proper good side cutters will be from elite brands, anything you want hard biting teeth and good jaw alignment will be elite brands, fill in rest with what a good buy and takes your fancy.
I see daily wrenchers using pitts pro 11" long plier and hose sets without no bother, I expanded my long pliers with unbranded and they been fine for 5yrs daily use so far, sure they flex more and teeth not as hard but they good enough and 20x cheaper than truck option .
I'm also quite happy self warranty cheaper tools as it that much cheaper you could buy 10 in your lifetime and still spent half of what snapon trucker would of charged .
I like tools that will work for me, I don't like work to pay a ridiculous tool credit.
Amount of guys I seen wiped out due to tool debt is shocking, amount of used boxes I had at cash deals is due to this mainly or obsession of upgrading for no real reason .
Lot of people love USA craftsman raised panel wrenches you don't, lot of people love snapon wrenches i don't . doesn't mean they junk just not right for our usage and preferences . Just balance preference with advice and good old gumption and you can't go far wrong ...
 
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Codejack

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OK, just to update/list basically everything currently in my mechanic's tool sets:

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Some of those pictures are old, and things have been moved, i.e. ratchet wrenches, screwdrivers, etc.
 
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crewchief888

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Codejack,
I know what you are going thru trying to find the best bang for your buck.

Reading your two threads, I'll give you my input I would not have dedicated tools to work outside of your garage.

My portable boxes were always kept empty and filled for the task that I needed to go do. Keep those jobs simple and do everything that you can at your garage.

Use the hand tools that you have

i occasionally work away from my house/garage. it may be running new brake lines, or minor fab work that cant be brought to my garage.
depending on the "job" at hand, all the tools i need may fit in a medium size bag, a cantilever box or the old CM 3 drawer i have stashed away in the basement.

i sure as hell aint loading up and hauling 1/2 my garage to do a simple fix.
if i did that, i'd need another service truck to haul it all....

from what ive seen of your posts, i'm not sure how you manage to break so many tools, or how tools that have been used (and spoken highly of) for years by professional and weekend wrenchers ( channellocks? really?) you claim to be absolute garbage..

i really cant recommend any one brand of tool to anyone... no matter what level of experience...
i know whats worked for me for over 30 years...

everything from HF to CM, SK, truck and industrial brands all have a place in both my service truck, and home garage...

:beer:
 
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Codejack

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i occasionally work away from my house/garage. it may be running new brake lines, or minor fab work that cant be brought to my garage.
depending on the "job" at hand, all the tools i need may fit in a medium size bag, a cantilever box or the old CM 3 drawer i have stashed away in the basement.

i sure as hell aint loading up and hauling 1/2 my garage to do a simple fix.
if i did that, i'd need another service truck to haul it all....

I've got a couple of boxes like that; I had to change a coolant hose the other day, so I just loaded up pliers and the couple of sockets that I knew I needed, along with new clamps.

The day before, though, I had to change an alternator, and I had no idea what size bolts or what obstructions I would run into; I grabbed my black and red boxes, a jack, a stand, a wheel chock, and my impact wrench. 5 minutes, and I'm out the door.

The big red box isn't going anywhere :eek:


from what ive seen of your posts, i'm not sure how you manage to break so many tools, or how tools that have been used (and spoken highly of) for years by professional and weekend wrenchers ( channellocks? really?) you claim to be absolute garbage..

I don't really break that many, especially any more.

That being said, I broke a few Williams sockets; I was abusing them, though. The Craftsman sockets kept breaking when I wasn't abusing them.

The Channellocks; again, I don't know the background. My grandad might have been using them in his photography or paint work and exposed them to acid for some reason, which has rusted, loosened and dulled them. The ones I have are not great, and I don't like the handles.


i really cant recommend any one brand of tool to anyone... no matter what level of experience...
i know whats worked for me for over 30 years...

everything from HF to CM, SK, truck and industrial brands all have a place in both my service truck, and home garage...

:beer:

That seems to be the majority opinion; different brands for different stuff, and to some extent, I've just got to see what works.

The other thing we all need to bear in mind is, "Things change."
 

WittHay

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A few years back I got to know a mobile auto mechanic. He didn't have his own garage/shop. he kept all his tools in a older mini-van. If i remember right, he had a large 12-drawer top chest and a smaller 6-drawer. There was room for jacks, jack stands, test equipment, etc

The point is he just had one set of tools. He didn't have a mobile kit, a home garage set and a set at a shop. To me there seems to be a lot of overlap if you have too many sets and not enough money for special tools
 
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Codejack

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A few years back I got to know a mobile auto mechanic. He didn't have his own garage/shop. he kept all his tools in a older mini-van. If i remember right, he had a large 12-drawer top chest and a smaller 6-drawer. There was room for jacks, jack stands, test equipment, etc

The point is he just had one set of tools. He didn't have a mobile kit, a home garage set and a set at a shop. To me there seems to be a lot of overlap if you have too many sets and not enough money for special tools

Absolutely, the specialty tools come first, but I expect to have a shop job where I will want to leave tools on site, and I will still want some at home; beyond that, I have 3 teenage children who will be needing tool sets as they grow up and move out, so "spares" will be put to good use :)
 
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Codejack

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Where do you work now and what would the tire/oil/lube job be for?

Jobs that came up on my search, recently:

Auto Technician
XXXX AUTO SERVICE - Chattanooga, TN 37416
$31,000 - $45,000 a year

XXXX Auto Service Centers are currently seeking qualified auto technicians to join our team.

we have 7 locations in the Chattanooga area and one locations in Fort Oglethorpe Ga.

>hourly pay $ 18.00 to $ 20.00 for qualified technicians

>38 hour work week paid for 40 (we close at 3 on Saturday)

>100 % paid uniforms

> performance based bonuses

>scan tools and diagnostic equipment provided

> diagnostic repair information provided i.e. alldata , identifix, etc

> 1 week paid vacation

> 6 paid holidays

> health insurance ( eligible after 90 days)

job responsibilities include repair and maintenance of passenger cars and light duty trucks,ASE certifications are a plus but not required,2 years of experience at least.

must have a valid drivers liscence,and your own tool ASE reimbursement and technical training availible

Job Type: Full-time

Salary: $31,000.00 to $45,000.00 /year

Job Location:

Chattanooga, TN 37416

Service Technician
XXXXXX Auto Service LLC - Chattanooga, TN 37405
$30,000 - $75,000 a year

Auto Technician position available, wheel alignment abilities is a plus.

Looking for honest, motivated and competent ASE Certified service technician with a positive work ethic and interest in long-standing employment.

Common service and repairs include:

Timing belts, brakes, scheduled maintenance, suspension repair, heating and a/c

Work includes:

Standard service and repair on foreign and domestic autos and Lt trucks along with check engine light and electrical diagnostics.

Closed both Saturday and Sunday:

We are a busy, friendly shop that takes pride in providing good quality service to our customers.

.Apply in person or by mail: 245 Signal Mountain Road Chattanooga, TN. 37405 Across from Baylor

** PAY BASED ON SKILLSET

**5 DAY WORK WEEK

**401K

**INSURANCE

**PAID VACATION

**PAID HOLIDAYS

Job Type: Full-time

Salary: $30,000.00 to $75,000.00 /year

Just about every place in town is hiring.
 
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d.mcfarland

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You're not ASE certified. I know one says it's not needed, but you will be looking at the bottom of the pay scale.

From what I understand, and I hope someone who knows more than me jumps in, but the turnover is very high at shops you're looking at. That's likely why they are hiring.
 

Yarpo

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You're not ASE certified. I know one says it's not needed, but you will be looking at the bottom of the pay scale.

From what I understand, and I hope someone who knows more than me jumps in, but the turnover is very high at shops you're looking at. That's likely why they are hiring.

The turnover at all auto shops seems very high, even dealerships. The place that offered me a job has relisted their position about 6 times since I declined. It really makes ya wonder what type of places they are lol.
 
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Codejack

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No, I'm not ASE certified, but I took the practice tests, and did well on all but the auto transmission one.

And of course I'm looking at the bottom of the pay scale! That's still more than I am being offered to be a lab tech or a junior college professor, and close to what I was making as an IT road warrior (more, per hour...).

I know one of those shops well; I buy tires there sometimes. They have 3 guys who have been there forever, and 1 or 2 who seem to turnover yearly.

As Yarpo said, though, that seems to be pretty common everywhere.
 
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Codejack

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I went by and applied at the first place today; "ASE reimbursement and technical training availible." Sounds promising, doesn't it?

They were covered up, so the guy asked a few questions and said he would get back to me. Mostly it was about check engine lights, timing belts, etc, but also pulling transmissions and engines. I feel pretty good about that stuff.

"Do you have your own tools?"

What is the correct answer to this?

I've got a lot, but then, there's a lot I don't have. Here's a basic list that I just put together, culled from a few websites and what I know that I need myself:

Torx Bits, Tamper Proof Torx Bits (Screwdriver or Sockets)


Files with Handles

Flat 10" Mill
Round 8" - 10"
Three Cornered


Hammers

16oz Ball Peen
Hand Drilling 3 to 4 lb.
Dead Blow


Punch and Chisel Set


Pry Bars

Rolling Head 16"
Straight 16"
Assortment


Brake Service Tools

Brake Spring Pliers
Hold Down Tool
Caliper Wind Back Tool Set


Electrical Tools

Remote Starter Switch
Insulation piercing test probes



Small Tools

A/C, fuel line disconnect set
Inspection Mirror
Spark Plug Feeler Gauge (gap tool)
Flexible Magnetic Pick Up Tool
Tape Measure 12"
Hack Saw
Tubing Cutter
Gasket/Carbon Scraper (putty knife)
Hook & Pick set
Magnetic parts trays (3 or 4)
Masking tape and marker (to mark parts)



Air Tools

3/8" Impact Wrench
1/2" Impact Gun
Air Chisel and Bits
Air Blow Gun



Spark and Fuel Injector Test Kit
Fuel Pressure Test Kit
Compression test kit
Torque Wrenches
Rechargeable Drill and Flashlight Combo
Fender cover
Harmonic Balancer puller
Slide Hammer Set
Screw Extractor Set
Sensor and Sending Socket Set
Spark plug sockets
Hose pinch off pliers
Bearing separator set
Ball joint service set
Locking wheel nut master set

---------------------------------

I've bolded the things that seem like they might be urgently necessary for some of this work, and I think that I can get it all together for about $1000, including the tool chest.

Is there anything that I am overlooking? (I know, tough without knowing what all I have, but it's laid out on the other page or in my sig)

Is any of the non-bolded stuff more important than I think?

-------------------------------

Also, thanks everyone for sticking with it; I know a bunch of you are sick of it, but I'm sure that it will be over when I can no longer hold a tool in my mangled, arthritic fingers :)
 
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JazzBlueRT

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I went by and applied at the first place today; "ASE reimbursement and technical training availible." Sounds promising, doesn't it?

They were covered up, so the guy asked a few questions and said he would get back to me. Mostly it was about check engine lights, timing belts, etc, but also pulling transmissions and engines. I feel pretty good about that stuff.

"Do you have your own tools?"

What is the correct answer to this?



Magnetic parts trays (3 or 4) - Free at HF

Caliper Wind Back Tool Set AKA reverse brake pad and C-Clamp.
 
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Codejack

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Magnetic parts trays (3 or 4) - Free at HF

One is free; 3 or 4 means 3 or 4 trips of not using another coupon, and I almost always get more than $7 off :)

Especially if I'm going to be buying that Yukon box...!


Caliper Wind Back Tool Set AKA reverse brake pad and C-Clamp.

That doesn't work on some calipers; I ran into that on... something a while back, you have to screw the piston back into the caliper, hence all those weird hole patterns.

I've actually got a proper brake piston compressor... that looks like a brake pad and a c-clamp :)
 

Yarpo

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"Do you have your own tools?"

What is the correct answer to this?

I've got a lot, but then, there's a lot I don't have. Here's a basic list that I just put together, culled from a few websites and what I know that I need myself:



---------------------------------

I've bolded the things that seem like they might be urgently necessary for some of this work, and I think that I can get it all together for about $1000, including the tool chest.

Is there anything that I am overlooking? (I know, tough without knowing what all I have, but it's laid out on the other page or in my sig)

Is any of the non-bolded stuff more important than I think?

-------------------------------

Also, thanks everyone for sticking with it; I know a bunch of you are sick of it, but I'm sure that it will be over when I can no longer hold a tool in my mangled, arthritic fingers :)

How did you answer the question? I answered with yes (because I do) but said I had no problem picking up anything I was missing. He asked about air tools, basic metric socket sets and good ratchets, pliers and pry bars. Mind you this was for a Mercedes Position as a Light Duty technician (Level 2 tech, ahead of only the basic lube guys) I would say answering no to a question about owning tools as a mechanic would be weird. You can't fix anything without tools, and If you've turned a wrench, you would have acquired and owned tools at some point.

I mean no disrespect but I highly doubt they will have you doing engine swaps, trans pulling and rebuilding, head gaskets and so fourth to start out. Without ASE certs and as you said, no verifiable experience that would be... questionable by them in my opinion. Remember, these are customer cars, even if you know you can do it they're going to want to see you turn a wrench first.

Also, what place was this? That may dictate what you need just as much as the position. That said basic hand tools are going to be obviously a must. Metric in all three drive sizes, ratchets in all three drive sizes, a flex ratchet or two, wrenches, pliers, pry bars. In bold, I think you should focus on the Air impact, spark plug sockets, air blow gun, and the caliper wind back set.
 
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Codejack

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How did you answer the question? I answered with yes (because I do) but said I had no problem picking up anything I was missing.

That's what I said, but he didn't ask about anything specific. I think he just meant basic hand tools.


I would say answering no to a question about owning tools as a mechanic would be weird. You can't fix anything without tools, and If you've turned a wrench, you would have acquired and owned tools at some point.

I would think so, too, but then, I've worked at places where they provided the tools.


I mean no disrespect but I highly doubt they will have you doing engine swaps, trans pulling and rebuilding, head gaskets and so fourth to start out. Without ASE certs and as you said, no verifiable experience that would be... questionable by them in my opinion. Remember, these are customer cars, even if you know you can do it they're going to want to see you turn a wrench first.

I would imagine! I also won't be offended if he comes back with less than the minimum he was advertising for as a starting rate, to evaluate my abilities, and sticking me on the smallest jobs he has, at first. Of course, he also advertised technical training and ASE reimbursement, so how much was he expecting, exactly?

Note that he didn't say anything about engine or trans rebuilding or head work; around here, most people just drop a junkyard unit in, especially for transmissions. For import engines, JDM :)


Also, what place was this? That may dictate what you need just as much as the position. That said basic hand tools are going to be obviously a must. Metric in all three drive sizes, ratchets in all three drive sizes, a flex ratchet or two, wrenches, pliers, pry bars. In bold, I think you should focus on the Air impact, spark plug sockets, air blow gun, and the caliper wind back set.

I guess it can't hurt; this is the local Maxi franchise chain. "Maxi Muffler" was the old name, now they advertise "general auto service" or similar. They seem to focus on emissions work, as we have annual emission testing around here, so you can't have a CEL on, muffler and catalytic converter have to be good, etc. That's work that can't wait, either, or you can't drive the car, so people have to get it fixed. I would imagine that timing belts are still a common job, too, even if they are becoming more rare (thankfully!).

The spark plug sockets, air blow gun and caliper wind back set are so cheap that those are easy purchases. Same with the pry bar set (I think I'm going to try the Cman, wish me luck!).

The air impact... they make cheap ones, and I've got the corded electric. That's not going to fly, though, is it? Worse, I'm probably going to have to buy locally. Northern Tool has an Aircat unit for $94:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200655834_200655834

Is there any reason to buy anything else?

Add in the box, and I'm right around $500, probably a little over unless I can hit some real sales. That's doable, but that's about all I could manage right now.
 
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Yarpo

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I guess it can't hurt; this is the local Maxi franchise chain. "Maxi Muffler" was the old name, now they advertise "general auto service" or similar. They seem to focus on emissions work, as we have annual emission testing around here, so you can't have a CEL on, muffler and catalytic converter have to be good, etc. That's work that can't wait, either, or you can't drive the car, so people have to get it fixed. I would imagine that timing belts are still a common job, too, even if they are becoming more rare (thankfully!).

Hey I don't judge, hopefully you get the job. Sounds like it could be a good place. I'm not a neat freak, but I do need a clean shop. Hopefully it's up to your standards!

The spark plug sockets, air blow gun and caliper wind back set are so cheap that those are easy purchases. Same with the pry bar set (I think I'm going to try the Cman, wish me luck!).

The air impact... they make cheap ones, and I've got the corded electric. That's not going to fly, though, is it? Worse, I'm probably going to have to buy locally. Northern Tool has an Aircat unit for $94:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200655834_200655834

Is there any reason to buy anything else?

Add in the box, and I'm right around $500, probably a little over unless I can hit some real sales. That's doable, but that's about all I could manage right now.

I think you'll find the craftsman pry bars are fine. Using them in my home box and both work trucks. Besides, its a huge stick of metal, what can go wrong ;)

I wouldn't buy anything else until you know more about what you're doing. Ask a bit about any "Specialty tools" you should have your first day -> week. I'm sure they'll let you know if you'll need a ball joint service set right away.

Aircats good, we use all IR at work but tons of people like/use Aircat. I don't have any personal experience with their offerings so maybe someone else will fill you in. That said, how come you need to buy local? Amazon sells everything!
 
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Codejack

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Hey I don't judge, hopefully you get the job. Sounds like it could be a good place. I'm not a neat freak, but I do need a clean shop. Hopefully it's up to your standards!

I'm weird; my tools are gleaming and arranged; my house... :willy_nil



I think you'll find the craftsman pry bars are fine. Using them in my home box and both work trucks. Besides, its a huge stick of metal, what can go wrong ;)

That's what I said about their wrenches :p

Fair enough, though; they are on sale for $20 for the set. That's not much more expensive than the HF set, which doesn't have caps.


I wouldn't buy anything else until you know more about what you're doing. Ask a bit about any "Specialty tools" you should have your first day -> week. I'm sure they'll let you know if you'll need a ball joint service set right away.

From the looks of things, I may wind up needing everything but engine building tools :)


Aircats good, we use all IR at work but tons of people like/use Aircat. I don't have any personal experience with their offerings so maybe someone else will fill you in. That said, how come you need to buy local? Amazon sells everything!

I may need it sooner than Amazon would deliver it unless I pay for expedited shipping, which negates the cost savings; last time I ordered something, it was in the local warehouse, so they waited a week to ship it so it wouldn't be early!

I may not need it immediately, though, in which case, I will still look elsewhere first :)
 

Tonyuk

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Your sets looking good and getting there,

I was in the same boat as you when i started out in a professional dealership, there was no way i was shelling out thousands on snap-on tools over here (more expensive than the USA) so i bought reasonable quality tools up front and upgraded as stuff wore out. Granted there was some kit that i had to buy on credit but i done this through a low interest credit card rather than the tool truck high interest account. Stuff like decent ratchets, spanners and electric tools i buy either facom or dewalt, both have good warranties and are easy to find. Sockets and the like i've only bought cheaper sets, never more than £30. Socket bits are either Wera or a few Mac bits here and there.

Hammers and so on are either a cheap bergen brand or a few estwings. Torque wrenches are Norbar, thankfully the shop i'm in pays to have them calibrated each year (bulk discount i guess) Pliers are basic knipex, a few USA tekton and i'm thinking of adding some of the german Irwins, when i started out though most were irwin or stanley.

I try to find the best tool for the lowest price and get that, stuff like oil filter pliers are simple to make, so not much point spending a load on them when you can get a cheaper set that'll last just as long. However i wouldn't cheap out on budget garbage just because you'll only use it now and then, always go with the mid-level brand for stuff like that.
 
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Codejack

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Your sets looking good and getting there,

I was in the same boat as you when i started out in a professional dealership, there was no way i was shelling out thousands on snap-on tools over here (more expensive than the USA) so i bought reasonable quality tools up front and upgraded as stuff wore out. Granted there was some kit that i had to buy on credit but i done this through a low interest credit card rather than the tool truck high interest account. Stuff like decent ratchets, spanners and electric tools i buy either facom or dewalt, both have good warranties and are easy to find. Sockets and the like i've only bought cheaper sets, never more than £30. Socket bits are either Wera or a few Mac bits here and there.

Hammers and so on are either a cheap bergen brand or a few estwings. Torque wrenches are Norbar, thankfully the shop i'm in pays to have them calibrated each year (bulk discount i guess) Pliers are basic knipex, a few USA tekton and i'm thinking of adding some of the german Irwins, when i started out though most were irwin or stanley.

I try to find the best tool for the lowest price and get that, stuff like oil filter pliers are simple to make, so not much point spending a load on them when you can get a cheaper set that'll last just as long. However i wouldn't cheap out on budget garbage just because you'll only use it now and then, always go with the mid-level brand for stuff like that.

Absolutely.

Harbor Freight ratchets and sockets are actually pretty good; the problem is the skipped sizes, the standard 3/8" drive are all 12-point, stuff like that. I'm using GearWrench impact sockets, instead. Wera look nice, but no SAE kind of kills them as far as I am concerned :)

DeWalt is high on my list, although since my old tools are basically obsolete (20-year-old 18V stuff), there's no headache if I choose to switch to Milwaukee or Makita.

I've got some Ironton hammers picked out because they have the wrap around the head, which is nice to help avoid scratching cars on accident, and then a Stanley drilling hammer.

I'm starting out with the cheap HF torque wrenches; they have pretty good reviews, and I'll calibrate them against someone else's so if they are off, I will know roughly how much to compensate. If they don't work out, I'll grab a beam-type until I can afford a better one.

Pliers; I have big hands, so I really like the cushion grips; Knipex are out of my price range, anyway. Stanley Fatmax or Irwins, the German NWS if I can find them on sale.

I really want to like Channellock; blue is even my favorite color, but everywhere I go, I see the same sets of complaints about them: Poor quality control (a picture of some needlenose pliers with a big gap between most of the arms showed up on Reddit today), improper heat treating so the cutting edges get dull, they rust too easily, and the joints get loose. I might get one of their oil filter wrenches, though; as you point out, they don't have to be super quality :)

"Best tool for the lowest price" is kind of subjective; it depends on how much you weigh quality against cost, doesn't it? I'm trying to hit "Sufficient tool for as low a price as possible."

-------------------------------------------------------

In 5 years, when I'm looking at opening up my own shop and can afford it, maybe then I will buy top end stuff in everything; it may be worth it just to convince potential employees that I am a serious mechanic.

Starting out, as the low man on the totem pole, anyone who gives me **** about my tools, unless they aren't getting the job done, is just being a *****, IMO :)
 

d.mcfarland

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I really want to like Channellock; blue is even my favorite color, but everywhere I go, I see the same sets of complaints about them: Poor quality control (a picture of some needlenose pliers with a big gap between most of the arms showed up on Reddit today), improper heat treating so the cutting edges get dull, they rust too easily, and the joints get loose. I might get one of their oil filter wrenches, though; as you point out, they don't have to be super quality :)

Still amazed you are basing your opinion on your old worn out abused hand me down pliers.

Not very scientific for a scientist...
 

Mr_B

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Codejack

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What I would consider is the Astro nano maxx to start with as kick bit more grunt so more midrange power gun in small package and add to that with the nano 3/8 later down road.
Not saying aircat junk but my money low cost would be on Astro nano .
Best one is the facom NS.1600F but not best for starter budget .

OK, well, I guess it will depend on how quickly I need it; if it can wait a few days, I'll order the Astro; if I need it the day after I get the call, I'll grab an Aircat or IR.
 

bbrins

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Dec 25, 2012
Messages
302
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MD
That Aircat is a great little stubby impact, but you might be better off starting with a full sized one. If they put you on a bunch of tire changes, it will probably knock them all loose, but it won't hold up long doing that kind of work. Good luck.

Sent from my SGP712 using Tapatalk
 

mcmtech

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Feb 12, 2014
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449
Location
New Orleans, La
I agree with bbrins, for a first impact get a full size one. I have both the nano and aircat minis, and while great tools, for just one I'd want a full size, add a mini later. Those cman red handle pry bars should hold up fine, I've beaten on them professionally for nearly a year and they've held up great, bought them as a backup set to my cornwell ones and have ended up using them more, my corn wells don't have striker caps. Also I'd think of adding some cable type spring clamp pliers, wouldn't be without mine. Astro ones a great to start with.
 
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