jives
Well-known member
Pole barn.
I know, not helpful, but this is an engineering area where pole barns shine.
Shop wall bowing out
- Thread starter BigBri
- Start date
Pole barn.
I know, not helpful, but this is an engineering area where pole barns shine.
RocketScott
Well-known member
Pretty much. It might not be the entire solution but it's the starting point to determine what is pushing the gable out.
The OP stated that the top of the gable is good. He also stated that where the top of the vault is attaches to the gable is good.
That would mean that the gable is bowing out ward between the top of the vault and the top plate. That's a lot of force to get a gable to cup that much and I find it hard to believe.
If anything the gable needs to have strongbacks on the middle uprights and a midpoint brace back to the ridge line.
There should be a packet of truss specs that came with the trusses. There will be a detail for the gable bracing within. The OP should review those, even better if he could post them up for us to look at.
There are thousands of buildings out there with trusses designed like this that did not need to resort to extreme measures to keep the gable plumb.
But by all means, go ahead and reinvent the wheel.
firebirdparts
Well-known member
Well, let's face it, framing is easy and fun. Wood is a fabulous material to work with. You just have to think about it from the wood's perspective. You build a hinged wall, that hinge might move.
Anyway, I hope it's not worrying anybody. It's not really difficult to fix. I have no idea why the framers didn't fix it, or quit, or what's wrong with the contractor.
I guess what I am saying is there's no such thing as an "extreme measure" when it comes to framing lumber. For $5 you can brace something enough to stop a hurricane. Every building in the world has end walls.
My guess is the end wall top plate was crooked to start with, but I don't suppose we are starting a pool or anything like that.
Anyway, I hope it's not worrying anybody. It's not really difficult to fix. I have no idea why the framers didn't fix it, or quit, or what's wrong with the contractor.
I guess what I am saying is there's no such thing as an "extreme measure" when it comes to framing lumber. For $5 you can brace something enough to stop a hurricane. Every building in the world has end walls.
My guess is the end wall top plate was crooked to start with, but I don't suppose we are starting a pool or anything like that.
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firebirdparts
Well-known member
I don't know if you are interested in any more advice, but I would certainly put stiffeners in the wall by sistering and I would not at all get into any more discussions here with anybody about how much stick lumber to use or how big. You can decide when you get it solid enough.
that is one heck of a big building. It's going to be great.
that is one heck of a big building. It's going to be great.
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tapered-pin
Well-known member
lakeroadster is right..
you're going to have issues that telegraph to the exterior veneer if you dont fix this problem first.
you're going to have issues that telegraph to the exterior veneer if you dont fix this problem first.
Ok guys sorry I've been busy with work. Want to thank everyone for their advice on my problem.
There was also a question about the other side of the shop.
The other side has a loft on the inside so it is tied into it. Also on the out side there is a bathroom that takes up 30% of the wall. I believe the other wall will be fine.
After reading through the post, and reading the link provided I chose my course of action.
I cut the top plate and ran 2x4 from the base plate to the bottom of the truss and nails them to the existing studs.
This took some time, my whole Sunday but it worked perfectly. After releasing my ratchet strap the wall did not move at all. All is good and am now looking for a brick mason.
On a side note I bought an oscillating tool to cut out what the skill saw couldn't reach.... what an amazing tool. If you don't have one I guarantee you will find a use for it.
There was also a question about the other side of the shop.
The other side has a loft on the inside so it is tied into it. Also on the out side there is a bathroom that takes up 30% of the wall. I believe the other wall will be fine.
After reading through the post, and reading the link provided I chose my course of action.
I cut the top plate and ran 2x4 from the base plate to the bottom of the truss and nails them to the existing studs.
This took some time, my whole Sunday but it worked perfectly. After releasing my ratchet strap the wall did not move at all. All is good and am now looking for a brick mason.
On a side note I bought an oscillating tool to cut out what the skill saw couldn't reach.... what an amazing tool. If you don't have one I guarantee you will find a use for it.
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mrobins297aaa
Well-known member
glad it worked out for you, how many places did you add the 2x4's?
I came in about 5’ from the corners and started, 18 studs in total. The worst part was going up and down the scaffolding. I had to buy 2x8x18 and 2x8x20 and rip them as my local lumber yard only had 16’ 2x4’s. I am also going to sheet the wall with 1/2 plywood so I think that will also help tie everything together. And the ceiling will be mini ribbed sheet metal.
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mrobins297aaa
Well-known member
looks like you did a first class job
lakeroadster
Well-known member
A doubled 2×4 is only half as strong in flexure as a single-2×6.
Seems like using 2 x 6's would have been the logical approach, even though you would have lost 1-1/2" of space.
It's a lot better, but could have easily have been twice as strong. And for a brick veneered wall, that would be preferred.
In any event, thanks for sharing this with us.
Seems like using 2 x 6's would have been the logical approach, even though you would have lost 1-1/2" of space.
It's a lot better, but could have easily have been twice as strong. And for a brick veneered wall, that would be preferred.
In any event, thanks for sharing this with us.
If you're going to sheath the wall with plywood, I'd get back on the scaffolding and add some more blocking above the "double top plate." Of course, depending on how you lay the sheets out.
Since you already had problems with the wall, I'd probably go the extra mile and use some adhesive before putting the sheets up, maybe some PL375. The only regret would be having to remove the sheathing some time in the future.
Since you already had problems with the wall, I'd probably go the extra mile and use some adhesive before putting the sheets up, maybe some PL375. The only regret would be having to remove the sheathing some time in the future.
Nowater
Well-known member
You could come close to this strength increase by gluing and nailing a 2 x 4 flat on the inside of your wall on top of your new studs. On top, meaning on the inside and turned ninety degrees to what you added and spanning to the old studs. You will lose the inch and a half on the inside. The extra stud would be a lot easier than all the work you did with cutting and notching, now that it is done.
Sorry, but my idea does not eliminate climbing up and down a ladder or scaffold.