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Shopping Concrete

orf

Active member
Joined
Mar 27, 2008
Messages
44
Location
The oh so exciting Midwest
What do I need to know when shopping concrete for a garage slab. Only requirement in my area is 4", but I'm hearing all this PSI talk lately. I want to make sure what I get holds up to some heavy 4x4 abuse.
Also, school me on the insulation deal. If in the budget I'd like to lay PEX in the floor for radiant later. Thanks.
 
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WNYflyer

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Joined
Sep 13, 2009
Messages
2,119
Location
Lockport, NY
orf,

First, what part of the country are you in ?

xxxx psi is the strength the concrete should have after setting up 28 days. Your concrete supplier will varie the amount of the basic concrete ingredients of sand, coarse aggregrate (stone), water and cement to get to the strength you want. Typically they have cut sheets/"recipes" of mixes that have already been lab tested for strength as well as field tested for ease of placement. You could probably call some of your local concrete suppliers and get a copy of their recommended mixes for your geographical area and area of use (garage floor).

For a something as simple as a garage floor the following should be looked at :

- your area of the country will have an affect on the recommend strength and "mix" due to such things as possible freeze-thaw cycles, road salt exposure, spalling, etc.

-you will gain strength in your slab quicker by thickening rather than increasing the concrete strength. Don't know the trade-off in cost of the thickness versus increased concrete mix strength though.

-And probably most important, in the long run the slab will only be as good as the base below it which is where many people skimp. Need well compacted good material under the slab.

For my area of Buffalo/Niagara I would be looking at a minimum 4000 psi "air-entrained" (for freeze-thaw,salt) concrete at probably a minimum of 5 inches thick for anything more than normal cars. Don't know what effect the presence of "pex" would have on the required thickness.

As far as heating the slab you might look for websites that show a cross section of the recommend construction/insulation. I bet your state building department has construction recommendations or contact your local building officials to see if they can help.

More than you wanted to know probably.
 
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pcmeiners

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Aug 13, 2009
Messages
7,908
Location
In the only town in Pennsylvania, Bloomsburg.
Concrete...
A really good mix is 4500PSI, which you most likely will get from the concrete supplier. As a foreman on buildings requiring large poures (years ago), a main issue is fighting the contractors as they want to add more water to the mix then should be added, for an easy pour (which is every time), which weakens the entire load. On days when concrete was poured, I had to remain at the trucks, to keep the contractors away from the drivers, situation was worse when a concrete pumper was involved.
 

A_Pmech

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2007
Messages
8,002
Location
IL
Orf,

The compressive rating of the concrete is meaningless without sufficient reinforcement in the concrete. This is because concrete has minimal tensile strength. For all practical purposes, the reinforcement takes all the tensile load within a concrete structure, including spreading the load of a slab-on-grade floor to the fill beneath. So, look to spend your money on more steel and better base before you spend it on higher spec. concrete.

Regardless, a pickup truck doesn't have sufficient wheel loading to test even a modest floor that has sufficiently packed fill. That's why so many housing developments get by with 4" unreinforced slabs, or slabs "reinforced" with chicken wire. The root cause of the cracking and breakup of slabs on grade isn't the vehicle load, but other dynamics

As previously mentioned, slump your mix before accepting it and don't let them water it down. That includes pumping it unnecessarily.

:thumbup:
 
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