Short ******* - Internal Pipe Wrench

[mobiledynamics]

What is the correct tool for this.

Having never used a internal pipe wrench, those look like it's meant for -ezout- where the teeth engage on the inside in order to spin it out

When working with finished or just brass ******* from RO inside a wall to a showered, showered, etc, any fixture - where you need to put a ****** into the female fitting, what is the proper tool to use (when you have to wrench it tight so the dang thing) is the ****** sticks out the wall like 1/2, tc

 

[Yankeefarmer]

I’m not sure if you are asking a question or making a statement. When I installed the ******* for the body sprays in our new shower, internal pipe wrenches were the perfect tool for the job. I don’t know how else you would do it.

 

[65ranchero]

Some thing like this?

Armour Line Internal Pipe Wrench, Steel, 1/2 in. RP77362 - The Home Depot

Avoid crushing rusted galvanized pipes and ******* by using this amazingly strong Armour Line Internal Pipe Wrench. Expandable knurled cam.

www.homedepot.com

 

[nadogail]

Internal pipe wrenches can be tried when you need to remove a broken ****** from a fitting, I have had mixed results.

Sometimes I have had to cut the inside diameter of the ****** as much as I can and then take my chances with a sharp chisel and a hammer.

 

[billconner]

I used that same set to both install and remove 1/2 inch stainless steel *******. Worked fine. Tight quarters so used a ratchet socket wrench till final tightening.

 

[FMB4]

The finale male ****** should be a finished (chrome, nickle, etc) shower head extension. Such SH extensions are almost always more than long enough for you to grip them enough by hand, with padded pliers, or a strap wrench, to tighten them.

 

[mobiledynamics]

What tool is used to -tighten- stub ups. Aka, you have your Rough Ins in the wall. Drop Ell with a Long ******/Cap.

Time to finish the project. You use a brass ****** or chrome (depending on fixture) for you tie-ins to the new hardware you are connecting them to. Normally, you could also use the 2-3-4" ****** and connect it to the hardware and then figure out a way to -tighten the hardware with ******- to the drop ell fitting inside the wall.

And or you connect the ****** 1st and then deal with the hardware later. But if the ****** only sticks out 1/2" outside the finished wall, etc.....I'm thinking internal pipe wrench. Never have used it, but it looks more like it's meant to be used for reverse mainly and not to -tighten- per se

 

[mobiledynamics]

Tub Spouts, Some Shower Hardware etc - it's only needing the 1/2+ or so of thread engagement that sticks out on the finished wal

 

[Hobby_Man22]

*******?

 

[mobiledynamics]

I picked out a easy out style just to see - I guess the way the thread pitch is cut, it's only meant 1 way -
Any recommendations ?

I'll be using this more for tighten on finished setups. Not for broken threads

 

[highland_hunter]

*******?

This was what I was expecting the discussion to be...

 

[vavet]

I came in here to make a weird comment about *******, but then I learned there's something called an internal pipe wrench. I don't own one. I must buy one...or two now.

 

[Copymutt]

Home Depot is out of the pink ones, don’t know when they will be back in stock.

 

[mobiledynamics]

LOL. I expected this from half the responses .....u boys are a bunch of ***** old men

 

[FMB4]

Sorry OP, but your question makes no sense whatsoever.

 

[rburke65]

I thought they usually came in pairs….