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Should I buy a 3/4" or 1" impact wrench

kapster

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I'm in need of a impact wrench for occasional use on the farm. We recently purchased a tractor with bolt on duals that we need to take off occasionally. Don't know what size bolts but the wrench size is 32mm, about 10 of them holding each wheel on.

Also would use it on our straight truck, 1 1/2" lug nuts. Our biggest would be our disk axles, they have 1 5/8 nuts holding them together. We use a wrench and cheater pipes now, not fun.

I have a 1/2" aircat and its great but not big enough for this stuff. I've never used a bigger impact, so my question is would a 3/4 be big enough or should I go 1"? The 1" wouldn't be very handy getting into tight places but most of the time that wouldn't matter.

I really thinking about going with a harbor freight for this one unless you guys advise otherwise? Like I said it won't be used very often.

Edit: I should mention I have never tried my aircat on this big stuff as I don't have a big enough impact socket but I really have my doubts it would do anything.
 
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blacK20

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A decent 3/4" should do it. Keep in mind that you need good air volume at the tool in order for these big guys to work at their full potential.
 

billymade

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Allot of it depend on the type of work you are going to do:

3/4" drive impacts typically are the "gun" style; gets into tight spaces, lighter, more versatile, easier to handle, lug around, square drive sockets, etc.

1" impacts have the option of the extended anvil style, which you rest on your leg as you work (very heavy, gets old lugging it around); then the other is a larger "gun" of sorts. If you are doing full size tractor trucks and swapping wheels all day long (Budd style), the extended anivl styles are good for that... if you are doing a combination of things, the gun style with a extension probably would be more versatile. Also, consider the fact that many of the 1" stuff can be spline driven (as opposed to square drive); which can increase the cost of sockets as well (I've seen these mostly on the extended anvil units).

Performance: ultimately, whatever gun you get needs to be able to do what you want it to; think about the highest torque rating that your most intense job requires. As with most air tools; the specs are helpful but the only way to really know if it fits your needs is to try one out on your production environment. Used 3/4", 1" air tools seem to come up from time to time; as are the larger 3/4 ", 1" impact sockets.... if your lucky, can be bought very reasonably at flea markets etc.

Air needs: make sure your air source can produce the CFM the tool requires and you may need to have a separate larger hose, fittings for the 3/4", 1" guns for them to work well.

Bottom line: 3/4" gun style easier to use, more versatile, 1" more powerful extended anvil are nice for working with wheels, the gun type maybe more useful for a variety of work but realize, 1" gets pretty heavy with extended use (a nod to a 3/4" in that department)! Power needs; need to match the tool! Good luck! :)
 
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diesel research

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1"

a 1/2" will sometimes work. a 3/4 will often work, but a 1" extended anvil with d or chainsaw handle usually works.

there are times the 1" wont work. have to torch.

while the 1" is heavy, it's not THAT heavy. barely notice it once you've done a few and get your stance right. if you can pay extra for the IR 2190T6, you will rarely meet a lug you cant handle, and half the weight. used to use a 1" drive IR-TI while climbing/standing on ladder, and took off hundreds if not thousands of tires with a 285S-6 (spline drive 6 ex anvil). took off some budd nuts (1-1/2 & 13/16) with a harbor freight earthquake but it was a crapshoot if an extension was used or damaged threads.
 

durallymax

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We do all of the things you list with a 3/4" gun. The only thing it might not do is disk gangs. Even an 1" can struggle with those. I have been known to chisel them off with an air chisel.

3/4 is lighter and smaller. Nicer I think. All of our semis are mid nineties to 07 and get run enough to need tires every few years so none of the nuts really seize up tighter than the wrench can do. the tractors are all a piece of cake. Most of them a 500ft-lb tops as well.
 

diesel research

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the one downside of the 3/4 is it will require squatting, bending, or sitting uncomfortably, while the "d" handle will allow a more comfortable standing position.. having access to both, i can tell you, i much rather not use the ir261-3 (3/4 ex anvil), unless the 1" is broken.
 
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kapster

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Yea I saw first hand a 1" not work on a tire truck. Came to remove combine duals, a couple wouldn't go with the 3/4 so he pulled out the 1", nothing happened so I torched them.

I was hoping my father in law would get one but doubt he'll spend the money. I love buying tools but this is a pretty big purchase and I don't see using it on my stuff very often if ever.

Well the disk gangs aren't that big of a deal if we don't have an impact for them. We normally have more trouble keeping them tight but last year we double nutted most of them.

Is the 3/4 earthquake any good? I bought the 1/2 and took it back. Was reasonably powerful but my cordless impact had more power so it didn't do me any good.
 

bob15

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For farm use, a 3/4" is fine. Used a 3/4" for years on a 400 acre dairy farm without any issues. Make sure you get a 1/2" ID hose and larger full flow connectors and you'll be set to go.

As for the extended anvil, is can be nice to have, but it can also be a nuisance and get in the way at times. I would skip on the extended myself, but with that being said, they also make 1/2" and 3/4" impacts with extended anvils.
 

TooManyToys53

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It will all depend on the power of the specific gun you buy and the volume of air your compressor and lines can supply.

At our facility we used several 3/4 and 1 inch guns, mostly needed when we were testing commercial vehicles. The 1" guns were nicknamed Rambo. When we went out for fleet work if the shop did not have a large enough air line or strangled by small fittings, even Rambo would not pull off the dual wheel lugs.

Then our exiting 3/4" gun went bad so we had to get a new one. I bought an IR with the highest rating they had. We were able to use that in place of Rambos in most applications, and did not need the big air lines.

I don't care how big a hunk'in guy you are, those 1" guns are heavy.
 

sberry

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A 3/4 will work for most things, remember no dry bolt tightens. They stop turning. We use more penetrating spray on installation than removal. The disk gangs will stay tight with one nut, clean parts and spray threads, we used to use a big wrench and hammer and I built a socket for them.

If you have trouble on removal and staying tight, spray bolt BEFORE assembly. It is a rare day here a bolt is installed dry.
 

sberry

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A 3/4 will work for most things, remember no dry bolt tightens. They stop turning. We use more penetrating spray on installation than removal. The disk gangs will stay tight with one nut, clean parts and spray threads, we used to use a big wrench and hammer and I built a socket for them.

If you have trouble on removal and staying tight, spray bolt BEFORE assembly. It is a rare day here a bolt is installed dry.
 
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Heavy Metal Doctor

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I went with a 1". Yeah, it's a heavy SOB to work with, but it does everything I need to get done - usually in seconds. 1 1/4" on up to 4" or so. I don't do truck tires type of stuff where a 3/4 gun would probably be perfect, so I just skipped that.

I'll also second the idea of upping the air supply - big guns are air hogs and If you don't feed them enough volume, you may as well be attempting the work with a 3/8 gun - neither will work, but at least it's lighter to handle:lol_hitti
 
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kapster

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My compressor is a 60 gallon. When i set it up I went with a 50 ft 1/2" reel and milton high flow 3/8 couplers, is that big enough for a 3/4? I know my compressor won't keep up but we'll just have to wait for air to build back up. that might be a reason to get 3/4 over 1" since my compressor is on the small side.

I've never heard of spraying bolts on assembly but it makes sense. I'll have to try that.

Any recommendations on a 3/4? The harbor freight earthquake can be had Sunday for $172 with 25% coupon. Cheapest I've found the Aircat 1600th is $300.
 

Bikes&Bowties

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On the tractor... Just use the half inch gun. No need for any more that what a good half inch gun will lay down. And if you put them in with that gun it will take them out. If you have rust problems or will be letting it sit use antisieze
 

Heavy Metal Doctor

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50 ft 1/2" reel and milton high flow 3/8 couplers, is that big enough for a 3/4?

Check the specs on whatever you buy. They will likely have a "must use xxxxxx" statement regarding the air supply.
I use 1/2 hose connected right to the compressor tank (no reel w/ possible restricted flow swivel) 1/2 open center hydraulic couplers because I had them on hand.
 

durallymax

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On the tractor... Just use the half inch gun. No need for any more that what a good half inch gun will lay down. And if you put them in with that gun it will take them out. If you have rust problems or will be letting it sit use antisieze

My mg725 and the shops IR Titanium 1/2" guns both have some nuts, but they do not get tractor wheels tight enough.

I am guessing you never torque yours if you can still buzz them off with a 1/2". Most hub mount wheels are 400-500ft-lbs. We have lost wheels before from people using only the impact with no torque wrench. They all get torqued now.

We spend a lot of time doing high speed transport with our tractors. Over half of the ones used daily are 35mph tractors, we don't need issues at those speeds.
 
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kapster

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Yea I can't see 1/2" cutting it, so I need to buy a torque wrench now to? Ouch.

I'm not sure if I want to mess with used, guess it would be ok. The 1" harbor freight impacts would be cheap power if I went that way, $90 to 116 with coupon Sunday. They look like a pain to use.
 

cundifc

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Yea I can't see 1/2" cutting it, so I need to buy a torque wrench now to? Ouch.

I'm not sure if I want to mess with used, guess it would be ok. The 1" harbor freight impacts would be cheap power if I went that way, $90 to 116 with coupon Sunday. They look like a pain to use.

Our 3/4 drive snappy torque wrench we use for just this was $800 bucks and change
 

diesel research

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I don't care how big a hunk'in guy you are, those 1" guns are heavy.


aint no big guy myself. 170ish. nothing special in strength dept either.

the deal is, by being able to stand comfortably, and with leg supporting most of the weight, 30lbs is a lot more comfortable than bending over squatting holding 15lbs with one arm fully extended out.

a lot of people just werent shown a good stance. good stance allows comfort and speed. gun held sideways. right thigh/knee pushing gun into lug, left foot spinning holding bottom of tire, left hand on d handle to prevent counter-rotation, right hand pulling trigger.

personally prefer to hit lugs between 10-2 o'clock position, so left foot is rotating wheel. the lower ones require bending over too much for me.

old bar trick i would demonstrate using it no-handed, just finger for trigger. truth was, the lugnut itself is holding up most of the weight.

70 yr old coworker was doing them just fine....
 

durallymax

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aint no big guy myself. 170ish. nothing special in strength dept either.

the deal is, by being able to stand comfortably, and with leg supporting most of the weight, 30lbs is a lot more comfortable than bending over squatting holding 15lbs with one arm fully extended out.

a lot of people just werent shown a good stance. good stance allows comfort and speed. gun held sideways. right thigh/knee pushing gun into lug, left foot spinning holding bottom of tire, left hand on d handle to prevent counter-rotation, right hand pulling trigger.

personally prefer to hit lugs between 10-2 o'clock position, so left foot is rotating wheel. the lower ones require bending over too much for me.

old bar trick i would demonstrate using it no-handed, just finger for trigger. truth was, the lugnut itself is holding up most of the weight.

70 yr old coworker was doing them just fine....

Good posture is everything. I worked at a tire dealer that did Ag, Cars and trucks. Also an implement dealer. We didn't have any 1" guns. Too bulky. You just need to hold a 3/4" right.

Extended anvil helps. Kneel down on one knee, hold the gun at 90* using preferred hand to run trigger while the other supports the nose, this balances everything. Work your way around or spin the tire with your non-kneeling toe.

I can't see myself wanting to be standing up hunched over far enough to do truck tires, let along swinging a heavy 1" impact around.

Its the same reason I use my Flex rotary buffer for metal polishing versus getting a big heavy variable speed sander. Sure I can only run 8" instead of 10" and sure I can only turn 2200rpm versus the 3200RPM the pad is rated for, but throwing around a 5lb polisher with just as much oomph as the big heavy 10-15lb 9-10" sanders is so much nicer at the end of the day, even though it does take a little bit longer.

Yea I can't see 1/2" cutting it, so I need to buy a torque wrench now to? Ouch.

I'm not sure if I want to mess with used, guess it would be ok. The 1" harbor freight impacts would be cheap power if I went that way, $90 to 116 with coupon Sunday. They look like a pain to use.

That is up to you. We run a lot of equipment, semis, etc and spend a lot of time on the road. The money you invest in a torque wrench will be minimal compared to the potential damage and/or lawsuits that could follow from loosing a wheel.

We have 600ft-lb one that was just under $600 IIRC.
 
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kapster

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Diesel, I saw your review on the aircat 1600th, still working? Still like it?

Oh for whoever asked, my cordless impact is a bosch 21618. 350 ft lbs
 
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