Should I move all my electrical outlets up higher?

[Dave88LX]

I was reading somewhere that it's a good idea to have your outlets ~4 feet off the floor, so that if you have things on the floor along the wall, most all the outlets are still accessible. It would be a little work, but it shouldn't really be much if any material, just moving things up higher. I'd want to do it before I drywall of course.

Think it would be a smart idea?

 

[MustangRick]

I have two support poles between stalls with outlets on them. I find my self using them more then any of the wall outlets. My wall outlets are about 4' off the ground, if they were lower, they would almost always be covered.

I like your lighting setup, it appears that you have quite a few switches to segregate them too.

 

[Dave88LX]

Thank you. It was installed by the previous owner. I only have lighting down the middle of the garage, he never finished the 2 outside rows. But, each row has a switch. The other two are for outside lights.

 

[5wndwcpe]

I'd move them up. You never know where you'll want to put a workbench. While you're at it, put a few up high for clocks, neon signs or reel cord drop lights.

 

[Dave88LX]

Great idea! How many outlets should I have per breaker? Doing typical automotive stuff. 15A or 20A outlets? Assuming I don't have to change out too much. I know that I can have them all on one breaker theoretically if I'm not overloading them, but I didn't know if there was a max I shouldn't go over.

 

[Uncle Buck]

Great idea! How many outlets should I have per breaker? Doing typical automotive stuff. 15A or 20A outlets? Assuming I don't have to change out too much. I know that I can have them all on one breaker theoretically if I'm not overloading them, but I didn't know if there was a max I shouldn't go over.

You can put as many as you like on a breaker, the real question is how many will be putting a load on the breaker at the same time, or how much stuff will be plugged in and running at the same time. If that amount exceeds the ampacity of the breaker you have too much stuff being fed through the breaker. Sorry for the dumb guy answer, I lay no claim to being an electrician!

 

[Charles (in GA)]

You can put as many as you like on a breaker, the real question is how many will be putting a load on the breaker at the same time, or how much stuff will be plugged in and running at the same time. If that amount exceeds the ampacity of the breaker you have too much stuff being fed through the breaker. Sorry for the dumb guy answer, I lay no claim to being an electrician!

NEC 220.14 says you need to calculate the number of receptacles per circuit using 180 Volt/amps per YOKE. Thus on a 20 amp breaker, the limit would be 13 YOKES and on a 15 amp breaker, the limit would be 10 YOKES.

Thats 120 volts times 20 amp breaker equals 2400 watts or volt/amps divided by the code requirement of 180 per yoke equals 13 yokes.

Charles

 

[thefairlaneman]

I would go ahead and put in at least one overhead outlet to give the option of using a drop light (retractable) . As far as a later table why not leave the outlets where they are and use a plug bar for the table. At least thats the cheapest way I would solve it.

 

[Bib Overalls]

I'd move them up. If you are going to drywall move them to a height/location that will not be in a seam when the boards go up.

 

[oldgoat]

On mine they started having them down low, but when I said something about it they moved them back up to 4ft which would be the min that I would have. In fact considering the plywood and drywall I would make it so that the bottom of the cover would be above 4ft. This weekend I found out that if you hae the outlet at above 5ft that you don't need a GFI outlet.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

This weekend I found out that if you hae the outlet at above 5ft that you don't need a GFI outlet.

Not true. Dedicated single outlets in basements and garages for use by freezers and fridges, fire alarms, and certain other not readily movable devices are exempt from the requirement for GFCI. Beyond that, the outlet has to be considered "not readily accessible" by the code to be exempt from the GFCI requirement. That is generally accepted to be above 7 ft.

210.8(A)(2) has a list of exceptions to the GFCI requirement.

Charles

 

[sdurgala]

I say move them up. When I did my garage, I put my outlets 3' up and 4' up where my benches are going.

I would also suggest some gang boxes (about one ft higher then yourself, for example, I'm 6ft so I put mine in 7ft up) for speakers and run speaker wire. You'll have a nice sound system to listen to, while you work on your toys....

 

[bmwpower]

I's say move them up AFTER you have a layout of what is going where. Don't move anything until you have that set. Otherwise, one outlet in the wrong place could screw up your layout.

Planning, planning, planning...

 

[the dude]

I would move them up as well. I have ours so that the bottom of the cover is at 4' This way you can stack plywood or whatever up against the wall and still have access to the plug.

The only low plug I planned for was for the bar fridge that is beside the desk.

Looks to be a great start to a garage!

 

[1320stang]

Move them up to where the bottom of the box is at 4' above the bottom of the bottom plate. Also, you might consider having two circuits for the outlets by alternating every other outlet on the same circuit. Chances are less that you'll overload a circuit working in one area. Also, consider putting 4 way boxes at your bench area.

 

[5wndwcpe]

I say move them up. When I did my garage, I put my outlets 3' up and 4' up where my benches are going.

I would also suggest some gang boxes (about one ft higher then yourself, for example, I'm 6ft so I put mine in 7ft up) for speakers and run speaker wire. You'll have a nice sound system to listen to, while you work on your toys....

That was my next suggestion. One in each corner.

 

[Steve V.]

I'd move them up. I'd also put an attic ladder in and deck

part of that attic (if you do, don't forget an attic light).

Steve

 

[sjsfire]

I'd move them up to at least 4ft. I also ran wire a switch and boxes for mounting ceiling fans. The fans really help with these 80-90 degree days.

 

[boiler7904]

I wouldn't move them until I did a few things:

1. Draw a layout of every workbench, stationary piece of equipment, portable piece of equipment, refrigerator, sign, battery charger, TV, stereo, computer, etc. and anything else that needs power.
2. Figure out the mounting height and power requirement (including plug type - NEMA configuration) for each item.
3. Make a list of anything you know you want in the future and allow space for it.

I've found that running a piece of plugmold across the front of a bench is the most effective way to have accessible power without constantly fighting cords across the work surface.

48" to the center of most outlets should be ok unless you want to be able to stand a sheet of plywood or sheetrock on the floor in front of them. I'd go with 54".

Common sense says to make everything that is not hardwired into the garage a GFCI circuit either by device or breaker. It's a garage - things get wet.

One thing to add to what Steve said. Include at least one receptacle in the attic.

Don't know if the garage is attached to the house or not from what you've said, but I'd consider adding a few to the outside near the soffit if you put up Christmas lights.

I'd also make sure there was at least one receptacle near the driveway.

 

[z28toz06]

i put the tops of all of mine just at 4 feet.

 

[oldgoat]

All I know is what the electrician that added another 110 outlet and a 220 outlet said. The 110 is mainly just for the TV, Stereo and VCR though.
As far as drawing everything out I would say that is good for now, but I know with mine things change and you either move something or add something and the best laid plans get screwed up. So I would still go with the outlets at least 4ft up.
All my lights are plugged into outlets in the ceiling. I have three rows with each row on its own switch. I prefer that way to hardwired so that I can move the lights if I find out later that where I have them doesn't work good.
The outlet in the attic is good also although I didn't put one in mine since I don't have a access hole for getting up there and with the truss design would be a pain to get around in anyway. My uncle wired in lights and outlets in his attic of the house, but since the breaker box was by the access hole he just used the breaker to turn it on when needed. Said it was one of his better ideas. No more dragging extension cords for tools and lights and then having them come unplugged. Also the soffit outlets sounds good for the lights, but might also add a couple of outlets so you can plug in lights or tools if you are outside. I kind of wish I had a outlet on the back of the garage so I wouldn't have to drag a long extension cord all the way around it.

 

[V-10 Killer]

It's always good to leave a few down low. You never know when you're going to put something on the ground like a mini fridge or something. I agree with above that you should plan out where your workbench will go, and move those outlets up.
I personally like having outlets low unless there is a specific purpose for elevating them. I don't run a woodshop so I rarely have 4x8 sheets of anything against the walls to cover the plugs.

 

[markb1]

Don't move them splice into the existing recpt. and run wire up to a new recpt in the desired location.