Should i re-do the electrical wiring?

[varotene]

I want to add a few sockets and upgrade the lights to LED(tube or flat panel). The current wiring is inside this conduits(two types of materials as you can see in the picture). Should I redo them and using what materials(conduits)? Or this looks OK and I just continue to use one of the conduits(which one is better)? Should I drill the a hole through the panels or route around the panels like i have it now?

It has 220V and 380V(for dryers). It's a 2-car garage and located in North California.

I am adding rockwool insulation to roof and walls. I might plan to add drywall/OSB in the future but not decided. I guess the insulation probably can be done before the wiring?

Appreciate any suggestions!

 

[Norcal]

California does not have 220V or 380V those voltages are common to 3rd world countries & is 50 hertz. Some may argue CA is a 3rd world country but that is another subject. In Northern & central CA the primary utility is PG&E and for residential the supplied voltages are 120/240V, they do not offer the option of 220 volts. To answer the other question, the armored cable (BX) looks like it's been there for a long time & it's very rare that a old electrical system is not in need of upgrades or replacement, the insulation in older armored cable does not age well.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

It has 220V and 380V(for dryers).

fellow californian here. where are you getting 220v and 380v? those are not voltages supplied to any service in california and they arent compatible with 60hz supply.

 

[readhead]

If you plan on some kind of finished wall covering you may want to install the boxes and wire within the wall and ceiling framing. The other option would be to run everything on the surface after the walls are finished. Either way everything will be replaced.
If you install the wiring in the walls you will generally rough in the wire, insulate and install the wall finish.

 

[acer66]

California does not have 220V or 380V those voltages are common to 3rd world countries & is 50 hertz. Some may argue CA is a 3rd world country but that is another subject. In Northern & central CA the primary utility is PG&E and for residential the supplied voltages are 120/240V, they do not offer the option of 220 volts. To answer the other question, the armored cable (BX) looks like it's been there for a long time & it's very rare that a old electrical system is not in need of upgrades or replacement, the insulation in older armored cable does not age well.

So why do you keep bringing it up then?

 

[75gmck25]

The junction boxes look relatively new (60's?), but it's difficult to assess the old armored cable without opening up the boxes and examining the conductors. Older versions of this flexible metal-clad cable used fabric insulation on the conductors, and when it gets old the insulation dries out and breaks up. Any cable with the fabric insulation on conductors should be replaced ASAP.

They also may have used the metal jacket for a ground conductor, which is no longer acceptable unless the cable is specifically rated for that use. I'm almost positive this flexible cable does not meet current grounding requirements.

Since the flexible cable is so easily accessible, I would plan to replace all of it before adding any insulation. It's just common sense to bring it up to current code when the job will be so easy. The conductors used in the EMT rigid conduit may be fine, but should also be evaluated.

 

[varotene]

The junction boxes look relatively new (60's?), but it's difficult to assess the old armored cable without opening up the boxes and examining the conductors. Older versions of this flexible metal-clad cable used fabric insulation on the conductors, and when it gets old the insulation dries out and breaks up. Any cable with the fabric insulation on conductors should be replaced ASAP.

They also may have used the metal jacket for a ground conductor, which is no longer acceptable unless the cable is specifically rated for that use. I'm almost positive this flexible cable does not meet current grounding requirements.

Since the flexible cable is so easily acceptable, I would plan to replace all of it before adding any insulation. It's just common sense to bring it up to current code when the job will be so easy. The conductors used in the EMT rigid conduit may be fine, but should also be evaluated.

Thanks for such a through suggestion.