Should This Be Caulked?

[D45]

This spare bathroom was renovated right before we moved in, it is not used all that much......with the daughter getting older, we are slowly setting it up

I am wonder if this seam, where the bottom tub meets the wall section should have been sealed with caulk? Or is there a lip where the sections meets that allows for drainage?

Thanks!

 

[ddurrett896]

Yes.

 

[LXCam]

There is a lip, but yes it needs to be caulked.

 

[D45]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the fast response

 

[Kielpo]

Regularge caulk is water soluble, I would use silicone.

 

[James-W]

It won't hurt anything to caulk it with tub and tile caulk, but by all rights it really should not HAVE to be caulked. If installed correctly, the lip on the tub should prevent water from going up and over the lip. However, if you feel better about having it caulked, then by all means, do so.

 

[Viper98912]

If it was designed correctly, there's a lip that goes up behind the panel, so water doesn't go up and backward. Nonetheless, some shower/sink silicone will do the trick.

 

[Jake40]

No do not caulk it. The tub is made with a lip behind the walls, the crack needs left open for water to drain back in the tub. If you caulk it you will create mold issues. Mold will eventually start to grow on the caulk and will start growing inside the crack if moisture gets in there.

 

[Richard Cranium]

I have always seen them calked.

 

[couch67]

This thread has the makings for a great debate!

From the picture it looks like the gap between the tub and surround is small. Because of that, without caulking, the water will still likely sit in the gap because of surface tension. Enough so that the water cannot overcome the slight grade into the tub.

I've seen this on two occasions in different homes I've lived in. Not a huge deal, but the standing water (with soap) makes for a slimy mess after only a few weeks.

IF the gap was larger (say 1/4" or more) then the water will simply flow back into the tub (assuming it was installed correctly), it might be ok to not caulk.

But because the gap is small I would caulk it.

couch

 

[Jake40]

If you look at manufacturers instructions from companies like Lasco of Kohler they say no caulk.

 

[JRC3]

I silicone (caulk) all enclosures I install. Yes the base has a flange that extends up behind the wall. No water will not leak into the wall if it's not caulked, but water will wick into the drywall in front of the tub. It will also grow mold in the crack. Neither will cause any significant damage other than aesthetics. Caulking the gap makes it look more finished and one piece.

It gets "caulked" with silicone, period.

 

[CJ7VFR]

If you look at manufacturers instructions from companies like Lasco of Kohler they say no caulk.

I think they suggest no caulk so that you don't trap water/moisture behind where the pieces come together.

The two piece shower/bath tub surround that was installed in our house also says not to put any caulk were they join for that reason.

Check to see what the manufacturer of your shower/tub surround says, and follow those instructions. If you don't have the instructions since you moved into the house with the bathroom already finished, you can normally find them with a quick Google search.

Jim

 

[Keith_MN]

If the gap is small, I would caulk it because it would be hard to keep clean. But, I agree that it does not have to be caulked.

If you do caulk it, one tip is to fill the tub full of water first to weigh it down and possibly open the gap up just a little.

 

[ddawg16]

I'd be inclined to caulk

You don't know if they installed a vapor barrier behind the fiberglass walls. If they did, then the end of the vapor barrier should have been brought down so it's between the tub lip and fiberglass walls. This way, any moisture stopped by the vapor barrier goes into the tub.

The other issue, water can wick up.

Personally, I'd caulk using a colored silicon caulk and call it done. That is a one piece enclosure....water is not going to get past it.

 

[benjamintmiller]

Every tub I have ever installed has said to not caulk that seam.

You need to provide a path for water to drain into the tub, and why would you want a bunch of caulk that has to be maintained anyway?

 

[Redfish622]

Absolutely.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J320A using Tapatalk

 

[Tejay]

Unfortunately the water will come to the front of the tub and get behind your tile and into the drywall. I have had to deal with this issue multiple times and it is always the same - mushy drywall down the front face and a mouldy ugly mess. Generally the water needs to be directed back into the tub because you are going to be the only one who really cares what is going on. Silicone it all the way around and to the floor and across at the base . It will be an ongoing maintenance thing but the lesser of the evils

 

[redneckcharlie]

Imagine that. The experts here know better then the manufacturer. Wait till the op caulks it, time pass’s and it starts to look like xxht. Good luck restoring the cosmetic appearance it has now after that takes place. As for cleaning, the most basic of nylon brushes would clean the overlay easily if needed.

If you look at manufacturers instructions from companies like Lasco of Kohler they say no caulk.

 

[Dustball]

Installation instructions for one manufacturer's 2-piece assembly-

https://hw.menardc.com/main/items/media/MAAXM001/Install_Instruct/10024491_2014-10-21.pdf

Per page 12, figure 12- there should be a bead of silicone caulk between the two halves.

 

[LXCam]

Imagine that. The experts here know better then the manufacturer. Wait till the op caulks it, time pass’s and it starts to look like xxht. Good luck restoring the cosmetic appearance it has now after that takes place. As for cleaning, the most basic of nylon brushes would clean the overlay easily if needed.

Ya imagine that. Or maybe imagine that some of us have a little bit of experience with these damn things over time getting dirt and debris build up within the uncleanable gap that promotes mold growth let alone water wicking into the area. I'll take my version of common sense over the manufacturers in this situation any day.

 

[D45]

My concern currently is this: When my daughter takes a bath, I used the hand wand and hose everything down. A good armount of dirt and debris comes out of this gap.......why?

Yes, the gap is pretty small.......like 1/4" or less

 

[JRC3]

Ya imagine that. Or maybe imagine that some of us have a little bit of experience with these damn things over time getting dirt and debris build up within the uncleanable gap that promotes mold growth let alone water wicking into the area. I'll take my version of common sense over the manufacturers in this situation any day.

Yep, I've been doing this since I was 20 years old. That was 1990.

Manufactures usually don't tell you to set a shower or tub base in mortar. Guess what I do with every time?

I believe they write directions sometimes for homeowners that do their own install and keep it as simple as possible. Caulking and mortar beds will scare them off to the brand that doesn't have it in their directions.

 

[1953mercury]

Set your phaser to Stun++. While mind melding with the manufacturers directions sheet, work your way around the tub/wall interface a @ 15 SFM. The result will be a hermetically sealed unit. It can't hurt to have a hot, blue, alien babe in the tub while doing this.http://project-nerd.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/****-blue-alien-cosplay-06.jpg Mike

 

[T_R]

I would caulk it. How else can you be sure water won't wick up over the lip of the tub and get in the walls.

 

[manwithtools]

My concern currently is this: When my daughter takes a bath, I used the hand wand and hose everything down. A good armount of dirt and debris comes out of this gap.......why?

Because you are letting your daughter play in the dirt pile in the yard too much?



I'm on the fence on this one, as I've seen it done both ways and I've seen different results. Sometimes the caulked joints looks like **** a few months / years down the road. If you are going to caulk, don't scrimp, get the best you can find and be sure the surfaces are clean and dry before applying the caulk.

 

[Hawk]

My concern currently is this: When my daughter takes a bath, I used the hand wand and hose everything down. A good armount of dirt and debris comes out of this gap.......why?

Yes, the gap is pretty small.......like 1/4" or less

I always fill the tub as much as possible, make sure the gap is dry and caulk. Let it cure, drain the tub and move on with life.

 

[ford33]

Call the manufacturer's support line and ask them.

Too many opinions here to decided on any of them.

 

[scarrylarry]

Just went through something similar. Moved into a house that had plastic of some sort walls that were not seamless that are over top of drywall surrounding the fiberglass tub.

Re siliconed the walls where they butted together . Then siliconed the gap were they meet. Used GE Silcone 2 7 year mold free warranty .

Also installed plastic Splash Guards ( Amazon) where the tub meets the wall so the water that gets past the shower curtain does not go down the wall and onto the floor.

I used the same silicone to attach the splash guards to the tub and wall not the stuff they sent with the splash guards .
scarrylarry

 

[kctyphoon]

Yes there is a lip that should go up BEHIND the shower walls, every tub I've ever seen has one.. No, water should not be going up through it going against gravity, but yes it is a good idea to seal the joint and prevent any possibility anyway. Even though water cannot flow up, moisture can. Regardless of what's behind the shower wall, more than likely its a place where mold can grow and thrive and you do not want to provide a pathway for it to go. The safe bet is to seal everything, especially since it's not an area that can be accessed.

The better question is this - will sealing that joint lead to any negative effect? The answer is no. Worst case every few years you peel it out and replace it when it gets nasty looking. But better to replace the caulk or silicone then to have a larger problem forming that you cannot see. Essentially there is no difference between there being a fiberglass enclosure or a tile wall, and you won't find any tile bathrooms without that joint t being sealed. YES - a tile wall will either have green board or should have cement board behind it that can wick moisture up, but if your admitting that MOISTURE is a potential problem, then you admit that moisture can make it up behind the wall.

Having a shower wand to clean the shower is s huge time saver, but that can also push water up through the joint. Just seal it up and you won't have to worry about anything. You can use clear silicone or try to color match if you want. Painters tape and a fingertip dipped into soapy water to smooth out the silicone is a great way to make yourself a nice clean joint. Just make sure you push the silicone INTO the joint and fill it, instead of just trying to cover the outside edge with a bead. This is a common mistake that will guarantee the seal to fail once the silicone starts to expand and contract. If it's a really deep seam, you can buy some of that thin rope foam insulation to take up some of the space, but I don't think that's something you'll need for this. also, the thicker the joint the more easy it will be to remove if that time comes.. a multi tool with a smooth "spatchula" type blade is a great tool for removing that seem, and I believe Goo gone just released a silicone removing product too. It might take an hour to remove and replace that silicone seem if you ever want to do it. I think I've done mine about every 5 or 6 years, and I'm due for another one. It's really not a big deal at all despite what people may make it seem like.

 

[bczygan]

CAULK!............NO CAULK!

Bill

 

[rburke65]

Not required to caulk. The walls overlap the tub and will not wick water.

 

[kctyphoon]

Can I just make a point - ceilings don't "wick" up water either, but how many times have you seen mold begin to form in the ceilings on a bathroom. Now - I don't care to hear about ventilation or anything like that. Point is, you DONT need direct contact with water. It's the humidity and excess moisture in the air that can be a problem. That's why indoor pools and hot tubs aren't installed in spare living rooms. Lastly, it's probably a one inch tall lip behind that wall on the tub itself. So for all the "no caulk" people - please explain how the pressurized water being used to clean the tub somehow magically knows to not go up into that seam.

 

[wssix99]

If you look at manufacturers instructions from companies like Lasco of Kohler they say no caulk.

Look at the instructions???

 

[ripperd]

No do not caulk it. The tub is made with a lip behind the walls, the crack needs left open for water to drain back in the tub. If you caulk it you will create mold issues. Mold will eventually start to grow on the caulk and will start growing inside the crack if moisture gets in there.

That is what our builder told me on our tour of our new house. But the shower in question for us had a 3 piece surround with vertical seams, not a one piece. With a one piece it probably isn't so critical to leave it open, since there is no path for water to get behind the panels. The top of the panels are siliconed to the walls right?

 

[JRC3]

If you look at manufacturers instructions from companies like Lasco of Kohler they say no caulk.

Sterling (Kohler) Ensemble instructions.

Note: Cellulose or other soft insulation
may drop down into the water channel.
This could result in the wicking of
water from the channel into the
insulation, which could induce mold,
mildew, or leakage. Condensation on
the valve and piping could also
contribute to this problem. Cover or
seal any loose material that could enter
the water channel. If the water channel
cannot be kept free of debris, it is
recommended that all vertical and
horizontal seams of the module be
sealed with silicone sealant.

http://helptopics.us.kohler.com/lin...369/Sterling-Ensemble-Installation-Assistance

Attached pic is from American Standard Saver direct to stud installation instructions. http://pdf.lowes.com/installationguides/033056852606_install.pdf

Second attached pic is from Delta direct to stud installation instructions. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Delta-C...-Surround-in-High-Gloss-White-40044/204342302


These are the only three I looked at. I bet I could find more. I'm mad that I had to look at instructions. LOL

 

[D45]

Call the manufacturer's support line and ask them.

Too many opinions here to decided on any of them.

I can't find any markings or info on the tub or the surround

 

[ddawg16]

When in doubt, caulk

 

[Boomer343]

I like to do those seams in two stages with good silicone caulk/sealer.

First bead I use to fill and press in deep. Smooth it out and let it set up. Depending on the flex in the walls/tub I have done as previously suggested and put water in the tub.

Second bead I can concentrate on being smooth and don't have to be as concerned about shrinkage if trying to do the seam in one pass.

 

[PassnThru]

My two piece shower surround had the requisite lip where the pieces joined. Problem was, it had fasteners to join the two halves together - like those serrated pins that join plastic pieces together on cars. I didn't caulk initially - I think I read not to in the instructions. My underlayment got wet because water wasn't going over the lip - but through the holes. Took some drywall removal to figure that out. If the pieces are joined by fasteners - then caulk. Run something thin through the joint and see if it hangs up anywhere. Otherwise, your choice. Caulk can start looking bad in a few years - maybe worse than what collects in the joint. Damned if you do - damned if you don't from my experience.