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Should this power tool be saved?

cloyd

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Joined
Jan 31, 2019
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W DES MOINES
Hi guys!

Just wondering if I could get some input on restoring my Grandfather's/Dad's old grinder. It would be nice to have a second grinder dedicated for wire wheels.

The switch says that this is a 20 amp, 240 volt machine. I think, typically, that is what is used in Europe, right? The kicker is, my dad used the grinder here in the U.S.

I am planning to replace the capacitor, bearings, and maybe the switch. I would like to restore it for the experience and because it is was used by family. But I am not married to the idea!

I know there are grinders out there of similar quality that would cost as much or less than restoring this one. Chicago Industrial is no Milwaukee! but it may be of better quality than a new HF.

Is this thing going to cause more problems than it is worth? :confused:

Thank you for your input!

cloyd
 

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Zrxrunner

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Jan 14, 2018
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I'm a sucker for the restorations too! Why not, you could probably do a basic blast and paint in a few hours and with a little electrical work, have a pretty nice grinder. Always like seeing more midwest/iowa members logging on too!
 

Farmer J.

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That's well worth restoring and is likely to give you years of good service. I used to have one just like it and it ran for decades until it was overworked on the wire wheel and some smoke leaked out of the motor before it died. I sat it in an outside shed ready to take for repair and someone stole it..
Mine ran on the 240 volt single phase supply with a 13 amp fuse in the plug.
I have since been told by electrical gurus that grinder motors aren't made for wire wheels so when using one don't load the motor too much.
 

Stadger

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Nov 19, 2016
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483
Plug it in. If it works, use it. Restoration of an old cheap Asian grinder is not worth the time IMHO.
 

GrayFlattop

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Chicago
I have mixed feelings. That is a ****-ton of work for an import grinder...

But, I would do almost anything to have some of my grandfathers tools...

I'm with you on this... On one hand it was probably never a great grinder. I'd say Taiwan from the late 70's to the early 80's if I had to guess.

On the other hand, the personal history of an item like this is where the true value lies.
 

bubinga

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Bridgeport Ohio. (Across River From Wheeling WV)
I'm with you on this... On one hand it was probably never a great grinder. I'd say Taiwan from the late 70's to the early 80's if I had to guess.

On the other hand, the personal history of an item like this is where the true value lies.
Not going to need all that much work. Put some bearings in it and maybe some wheels, and a quick knock down with sandpaper and a quick paint job. You don't need to get crazy with the detail, it e'll still look good.

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Asport

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I would restore it as long as you can get it functioning properly with bearings etc. The aluminum on/off badge should polish up nice. Are the end cap housing's aluminum? If so, they would look great polished as well with the middle painted. It's up to you how far you want to take it.
 
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cloyd

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No, sorry, I didn't see it. I am having quite the time figuring out how to see replies to posts; maybe there weren't any at the time???
 
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cloyd

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I have decided to go ahead and try to give this bench grinder a second life. It will be good practice on something of no real value. I plugged it in and it does run but one bearing is bad so I have ordered new ones.

There was a fan inside it that flew apart and partly melted long ago. I have found replacement fans for other brands but I can't find the specs for them. I need a 3/4" bore on a directional fan. (I think.) Any ideas where to find one?

Thank you!

cloyd
 

Handyfarmer

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in the high plains of Colorado
the tag says 60 hz thus USA, and the voltage is either 110 or 220 depending on the internal wiring, and the RPM is 3600, if it was over seas it would be 50hz and 3000 rpm.

so one can wire it to run on 120 or 240 your choice,

if the shaft is not bent, use it, most likely a better grinder than what most can buy today,
 

6PTsocket

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Mar 12, 2014
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What it said on the switch is the max. rating of the switch. The motor picture you supplied says it is a 1/2 hp motor that runs on 110/220 volts at 4/2 amps. 60hz, not European.

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cloyd

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Jan 31, 2019
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I love the switch on this old grinder and I have seen it on many different brands: Amash, NAPCO, TestRite and Cummins. My switch is broken and I might be able to repair it so it works, but I would be interested in finding a donor grinder for parts, especially the switch.

SO, if you have an old bench grinder from Taiwan that is in your scrap pile, please let me know! I am also still looking for the fan (although I should get one from Dewalt tomorrow to try out) Good news! The fan from Dewalt will work. I would love to have the eye shield assemblies and tool rests too.

I know that this grinder isn't worth the effort that I am putting into it, but if I hadn't tried to restore it I wouldn't have learned as much as I have about motors, restoration methods and power tools.

BTW, if you aren't supposed to run wire wheels on grinders, what do you run them on???

Thank you!

cloyd

I have included images that I stole off of the internet and GarageJournal of the different brands and components that I need.
 

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Last edited:
Joined
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left coast
there is another site, owwm.com, that is for people who restore vintage machinery - you will find a lot of info there on, and pictures of, restored grinders. That looks like a very nice grinder and you have history with it, you most assuredly should fix it up. if you have 220 in your garage, I'd use that for the grinder, it reduces the asymmetric electrical load that starting the grinder would have if you wire it for 115.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Location
left coast
BTW, if you aren't supposed to run wire wheels on grinders, what do you run them on???

Thank you!

cloyd


usually on a buffer, so you have more working space, and also so the work doesn't get trapped between the wheel and the tool rest, yanked out of your hand, whirled around the interior of the wheel guard and either flung out the back through the vent or hard against the shield (or worse, into your face if you don't have the shield).
 
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cloyd

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W DES MOINES
there is another site, owwm.com, that is for people who restore vintage machinery - you will find a lot of info there on, and pictures of, restored grinders.

Thank you for the tip! I looked at the site and there are loads of nicely restored grinders. Unfortunately for me, the site specifies USA and UK manufacturers only--that leaves out Taiwan.

cloyd
 

Farmer J.

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The switch broke on mine just the same as yours, whilst the grinder was still quite new. I was unable to find a replacement switch so joined the wires together behind it using a connector block, screwed a plate over the hole, and switched it on and off at the wall socket.
 
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cloyd

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Location
W DES MOINES
The switch broke on mine just the same as yours, whilst the grinder was still quite new. I was unable to find a replacement switch so joined the wires together behind it using a connector block, screwed a plate over the hole, and switched it on and off at the wall socket.

OK, so maybe a replacement isn't a good idea if they are fragile. I found a nearly identical switch #3030-9001 on Wholesale Tools. It would be $30 including shipping. I guess I don't like it that much!

cloyd
 
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JoCoSawdust

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I applaud you for refurbishing your Grandpa's grinder. Regardless of where it was made, it was your Grandpa's grinder and in my book that makes it priceless. For what it's worth, I've been running wire wheels on grinders for 40+ years and never had an issue.
 
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