Show me motorcycle mechanic tools
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riceburner
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Are you planning on doing it as a career or as a hobby?
stopdroplol
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I do all the work on my own bikes as well as most of the work on my friend's. There's really not much you need. With a Basic socket set, screwdrivers, couple pliers and a dead blow you can do 90% of the work. That said there are 2 "Motorcycle" tools I own.
1) My overhead cam lifter. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WJHAT8/?tag=atomicindus08-20
It's just a crescent shaped tool (most common) that you is used to depress the shim buckets so you can pull out the shims when the lobe is rotated opposite. On one of my motorcycle I have to do this every 2,000 miles. Each manufacture has there own style so make sure you get the right one (my Honda one is like the one above). If your bike doesn't have the shim type buckets you wont even need these. But you probably need something else.
Also for the shims (if you have them). If you're like me and have a bike with 16 valves and a maintenance check every 2,000 miles this can get expensive. What you can do though is try swapping them around with each other. Just involves some simple math and if you can prove they all remain in clearance on paper go ahead and move them around. If you need a new size though you can try exchanging a spare shim for a new one. I've heard of some shops doing this but I've called around and none around me would.
2) My Carburetor Adjuster. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1441&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
This tool just makes it a breeze to adjust the mixture screws on the bottom of a carburetor. You can do it without one of these but its a real pita and will take you 3x as long. I prefer this type the flex shaft driver tools. You only need the tool, not the set. You can just use driver bits in a 1/4 socket (that's what I do and I have the set).
3) Shop manual / FSM. This should be self explanatory but i'll include it anyways. You really can't do anything without it. My friend learned this the hard way when he thought he could just listen to somebody else on his motorcycle's board. He ended up using the wrong procedure to time his cams and bent everyone of his exhaust valves.
Other small items that you "may" end up needing include:
Solder iron or bumper/fairing repair kit (epoxy + mesh). If your have a sportbike chances are your gonna crack the plastic at some point. Two most common fix it methods are with a soldering iron (poor man's plastic welder) or a fairing kit. I prefer using the iron but on some things they don't work (like narrow/skinny support tabs). If you end up breaking a "button" or "tab" on a fairing you can take a mold of a good one somewhere else on the fairing and solder/weld it in. If you don't have a good source you could cut up and shape some scrap plastic/fiberglass, it's ugly but it works.
An assortment of prying tools. Sportbikes have a subframe that supports the instrument panel and fairings. These subframe's are very easy to bend if you drop the bike. Sometimes it's just a simple bend and can be pryed back into position. Other times the peice is really complex and would be a nightmare (though still possible if you had the patience). In cases involving the latter I would just buy a new assembly off ebay. My favorite "prying tools" are my 28" snapon screwdriver that fell off the back of a truck (no really), 14" crescent, and jack handle.
Tire irons / Tire stand. If you race it you'll probably want these. If you wont be replacing tires often it's easier to just let the shop handle it (some will do it free if you buy the tires from them). Personally I think removing a tire is the biggest PITA I could imagine so I just let the shops do it. Balancing is pretty simple but I don't think it has a large effect (I've heard some mechanics say you don't even need to do it). But simple to do (or free) so why not?
1) My overhead cam lifter. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WJHAT8/?tag=atomicindus08-20
It's just a crescent shaped tool (most common) that you is used to depress the shim buckets so you can pull out the shims when the lobe is rotated opposite. On one of my motorcycle I have to do this every 2,000 miles. Each manufacture has there own style so make sure you get the right one (my Honda one is like the one above). If your bike doesn't have the shim type buckets you wont even need these. But you probably need something else.
Also for the shims (if you have them). If you're like me and have a bike with 16 valves and a maintenance check every 2,000 miles this can get expensive. What you can do though is try swapping them around with each other. Just involves some simple math and if you can prove they all remain in clearance on paper go ahead and move them around. If you need a new size though you can try exchanging a spare shim for a new one. I've heard of some shops doing this but I've called around and none around me would.
2) My Carburetor Adjuster. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1441&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
This tool just makes it a breeze to adjust the mixture screws on the bottom of a carburetor. You can do it without one of these but its a real pita and will take you 3x as long. I prefer this type the flex shaft driver tools. You only need the tool, not the set. You can just use driver bits in a 1/4 socket (that's what I do and I have the set).
3) Shop manual / FSM. This should be self explanatory but i'll include it anyways. You really can't do anything without it. My friend learned this the hard way when he thought he could just listen to somebody else on his motorcycle's board. He ended up using the wrong procedure to time his cams and bent everyone of his exhaust valves.
Other small items that you "may" end up needing include:
Solder iron or bumper/fairing repair kit (epoxy + mesh). If your have a sportbike chances are your gonna crack the plastic at some point. Two most common fix it methods are with a soldering iron (poor man's plastic welder) or a fairing kit. I prefer using the iron but on some things they don't work (like narrow/skinny support tabs). If you end up breaking a "button" or "tab" on a fairing you can take a mold of a good one somewhere else on the fairing and solder/weld it in. If you don't have a good source you could cut up and shape some scrap plastic/fiberglass, it's ugly but it works.
An assortment of prying tools. Sportbikes have a subframe that supports the instrument panel and fairings. These subframe's are very easy to bend if you drop the bike. Sometimes it's just a simple bend and can be pryed back into position. Other times the peice is really complex and would be a nightmare (though still possible if you had the patience). In cases involving the latter I would just buy a new assembly off ebay. My favorite "prying tools" are my 28" snapon screwdriver that fell off the back of a truck (no really), 14" crescent, and jack handle.
Tire irons / Tire stand. If you race it you'll probably want these. If you wont be replacing tires often it's easier to just let the shop handle it (some will do it free if you buy the tires from them). Personally I think removing a tire is the biggest PITA I could imagine so I just let the shops do it. Balancing is pretty simple but I don't think it has a large effect (I've heard some mechanics say you don't even need to do it). But simple to do (or free) so why not?
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Swan
Well-known member
What make model and type of bikes? Modern or vintage?
ibedayank
Well-known member
pre 1975 british bikes....
your going to need whitorth tools
jap...metric
hardley ableson metric and standard
soviet block... metric
more special tools than i can list
your going to need whitorth tools
jap...metric
hardley ableson metric and standard
soviet block... metric
more special tools than i can list
I am looking to work on bikes 2000 & up. Sport and dirt bikes. I wanted to know what tools an entry to midlevel motorcycle tech would need. I am looking to build up my tool collection up to par with getting a job.
I currently have a full selection of sae/mm stubby and long wrenches, 3/8 drive deep & shallow mm/sae set. Some pry bars, dead blow, screwdrivers etc. All I've ever really needed to do maintenance on my and friends vehicles.
I love and ride bikes. I want to get into the game and off the bench. I am preparing to invest in some tools to hopefully get me started. I was wanting to hear from motorcycle mechanics on tools they find indispensable to the job. Like some T handles or specialty pliers or sockets? Do they prefer air or hand tools? and in what sizes?
Thanks in advance for your advise.
I currently have a full selection of sae/mm stubby and long wrenches, 3/8 drive deep & shallow mm/sae set. Some pry bars, dead blow, screwdrivers etc. All I've ever really needed to do maintenance on my and friends vehicles.
I love and ride bikes. I want to get into the game and off the bench. I am preparing to invest in some tools to hopefully get me started. I was wanting to hear from motorcycle mechanics on tools they find indispensable to the job. Like some T handles or specialty pliers or sockets? Do they prefer air or hand tools? and in what sizes?
Thanks in advance for your advise.
JAKE-THE-TOOL-MAN
Well-known member
0-100ft/lb torque wrench, T handle sockets, T handle hex, feeler gauges, spark tester, multiple variations of pullers, chain breaker. These are just some of the specialty tools used for dirt bikes
BloodySinner
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- Jul 1, 2011
- Messages
- 169
Metric tools.
PrecisionTools
Well-known member
A good hoist, cable oiler, universal clutch holding tools, most common T handles - 8mm & 10mm & hex/Allen, electrical diagnostic - good meter, Coil tester?, torque wrench, micrometer and feeler gauges for shims, flywheel pullers, chain breakers/riveter, brake bleeder...you will find out as you go along I guess!
As stated by a poster above...find a good source for factory service manuals - indispensable. Maybe a small notebook in your box for the PDF manuals. I have a heap of Yamaha stuff in PDF if anyone is interested.
This guy sells some relevant stuff...
http://mototechdiagnostics.com.au/index.php
As stated by a poster above...find a good source for factory service manuals - indispensable. Maybe a small notebook in your box for the PDF manuals. I have a heap of Yamaha stuff in PDF if anyone is interested.
This guy sells some relevant stuff...
http://mototechdiagnostics.com.au/index.php
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BWS
Well-known member
All good advice above..........if you stay with the trade,keep an eye out for some machine shop equip.No,its not absolutely mandatory......but it comes in very handy.
>Lathe w/metric threading capability
>BP style mill
>H-frame press
>And welding equip comes into play frequently enough to be thinking that way as well.Tig much more than Mig.
Not saying to run out and snag all the above.But keep it in mind as a general direction.Theres a tremendous amt of special tooling required on bikes that just isn't stocked on a Snap-On truck.You'd go broke if you had to "buy" all the stuff needed just for suspension work,with a lathe and a welder its pretty much all downhill from there.
Look into taking some welding classes at a CC.Start with OA and then take a Tig class.It'll run about 150 per class.Would say take a machineshop course if you can,but they're usually filled with guys there just for the equip.
We recently repaired(3 busted teeth on a back gear,plus some busted handles N stuff)a nice late 60's Clausing lathe for a M/C mechanic.His first,bought it for 375$,and the cpl hundred he payed us.........its well within the M/C repair shop budget.Just sayin,BW
>Lathe w/metric threading capability
>BP style mill
>H-frame press
>And welding equip comes into play frequently enough to be thinking that way as well.Tig much more than Mig.
Not saying to run out and snag all the above.But keep it in mind as a general direction.Theres a tremendous amt of special tooling required on bikes that just isn't stocked on a Snap-On truck.You'd go broke if you had to "buy" all the stuff needed just for suspension work,with a lathe and a welder its pretty much all downhill from there.
Look into taking some welding classes at a CC.Start with OA and then take a Tig class.It'll run about 150 per class.Would say take a machineshop course if you can,but they're usually filled with guys there just for the equip.
We recently repaired(3 busted teeth on a back gear,plus some busted handles N stuff)a nice late 60's Clausing lathe for a M/C mechanic.His first,bought it for 375$,and the cpl hundred he payed us.........its well within the M/C repair shop budget.Just sayin,BW
bestatv
Well-known member
You must get a set of T handles.8,10.12,14,17 for Honda.Plus #1 and #2 phillips.
hilld
Well-known member
If you are working on Harley's, I would suggest a good drip pan. All kidding aside, the biggest thing that you find on bikes and not on cars are multi carb setups, so a carb balancer tool comes to mind, I use a twin max as I am only working on 2 cyl boxer engines but you might have to find a 4 or even 6 carb balancer. All the other tools are standard hand tools, not too much use for power tools other than maybe an air ratchet. I don't use my impact on my bike.
wafrederick
Well-known member
With some of these newer motorcycles,a scan tool is required and Harley Davidson is one that switch to electronic fuel injection doing away with carburetors..My father's 2006 Ultra Classic is fuel injected and has no carburetor.You don't have to buy a tire machine just for motorcycle tires,there are automotive tire machines that can you can do motorcycle tire changes on.
ZRX61
Well-known member
ibedayank
Well-known member
& a selection of LARGE hammers...
dont forget floordry and latex gloves
Freeborn John
Well-known member
A chain breaker/riveter of the serious sort, the ordinary ones struggle with any decent quality chain and a few heavy duty soft links will see them off.
PrecisionTools
Well-known member
& a selection of LARGE hammers...
Can someone confirm that this is the HD tool-kit that comes with the bike?
Tim Cowan
Well-known member
I had dirt bikes 35 years ago and I too had a lot of trouble changing tires n' tubes on the AL rims. I guess they are still a PITA.
Damian
Well-known member
I worked on bikes for a few years back when I was riding, mainly fixing buddies bikes and my own. The single most used tools I remember using were T-handles. As others have said in this thread, T-handle stuff is an absolute must.
G1GRANDEUR
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- Joined
- Aug 22, 2009
- Messages
- 2,094
Long hex bit sockets. Round head and normal.
Hex T-Handles.
19mm and up hex sockets for axle nuts.
And such......
Hex T-Handles.
19mm and up hex sockets for axle nuts.
And such......
T-handle nut drivers
Decent quality socket set with extensions
Good quality mini pick set
Magnetic pick up tool
18" breaker bar
Decent set of feeler gauges
2 lb dead blow hammer
Nice set of offset box ends
Nice set of open ends
Flexible shaft bit driver and bits in hex, phillips and flat
Mini dykes
6-8" needle nose
Basic circuit tester
Battery Tender
Gallon of blue loctite
quart of red loctite
couple of tubes of marine grease
good torque wrench
ratcheting box end set
utility knife/mini hack saw
8" c-clamp
magnetic tray
Other misc stuff, but the above will cover many/most of the stuff you run into on a Jap bike or KTM
Decent quality socket set with extensions
Good quality mini pick set
Magnetic pick up tool
18" breaker bar
Decent set of feeler gauges
2 lb dead blow hammer
Nice set of offset box ends
Nice set of open ends
Flexible shaft bit driver and bits in hex, phillips and flat
Mini dykes
6-8" needle nose
Basic circuit tester
Battery Tender
Gallon of blue loctite
quart of red loctite
couple of tubes of marine grease
good torque wrench
ratcheting box end set
utility knife/mini hack saw
8" c-clamp
magnetic tray
Other misc stuff, but the above will cover many/most of the stuff you run into on a Jap bike or KTM
X1 Mike
Well-known member
If you are working on Harley's, I would suggest a good drip pan./QUOTE]
& a selection of LARGE hammers...
Can someone confirm that this is the HD tool-kit that comes with the bike?
Every once in a while I start to wonder if the anti-Harley crowd is as douchey as I remember.
Confirmed..........
If you are working on Harley's, I would suggest a good drip pan./QUOTE]
Every once in a while I start to wonder if the anti-Harley crowd is as douchey as I remember.
Confirmed..........
Yup. They are generally FAR bigger douchebags than the riders they constantly insult.
And I don't even like H-Ds; I'm a Duc kind of guy
BWS
Well-known member
+2 X1 Mike........and thats comin from a kneedragin sportbike'r.BW
PrecisionTools
Well-known member
2fat2fly
Well-known member
Allen head sockets,Allen head T-handles,Allen wrenches......
orangefury
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2011
- Messages
- 41
I would categorize the tools you will need by the type of type of job you are going to do. I have only work on KTM's since the '89 model and in last five years I've only done suspension and Top ends as my friend does the botom end jobs.
For example I would say these tools would be specialized, every thing else you should have t-handles, pliers, sockets and the like.
Top End:
Crows's feet (torque cylinder bolts)
wrist pin puller
pen magnet (to hold cam chain and prevent it from falling into the engine)
Bottom End:
Case splitter
Clutch/flywheel holding tool
Flywheel puller
Suspension:
Fork seal drivers
Spring compressors
Fork Cap wrench
Speciality sockets for removing the compression bolt on shocks.
Lot of special tools too many to list (some you will make).
in/lb torque wrench (I prefer my dial wrench over my click type wrench).
A vise is a must when doing suspension work.
Stay away from the impact you don't really need it except to remove the clutch basket on dirt bikes.
Brass drifts.
Motion Pro is probably the leader when comes to Motorcycle tools.
RaceTech is the leader when is comes to suspension tools.
I recently pick up some Cal-Van T-Handle speed sticks and like 'em better than my motion pro T-Handles.
For example I would say these tools would be specialized, every thing else you should have t-handles, pliers, sockets and the like.
Top End:
Crows's feet (torque cylinder bolts)
wrist pin puller
pen magnet (to hold cam chain and prevent it from falling into the engine)
Bottom End:
Case splitter
Clutch/flywheel holding tool
Flywheel puller
Suspension:
Fork seal drivers
Spring compressors
Fork Cap wrench
Speciality sockets for removing the compression bolt on shocks.
Lot of special tools too many to list (some you will make).
in/lb torque wrench (I prefer my dial wrench over my click type wrench).
A vise is a must when doing suspension work.
Stay away from the impact you don't really need it except to remove the clutch basket on dirt bikes.
Brass drifts.
Motion Pro is probably the leader when comes to Motorcycle tools.
RaceTech is the leader when is comes to suspension tools.
I recently pick up some Cal-Van T-Handle speed sticks and like 'em better than my motion pro T-Handles.
T-handles are awesome, but you still need the proper socket/hex to torque to spec.
My Koken t-handles are sweet, like them a lot more than MotionPro's.
Air tools are rarely needed unless you are tearing down the motor or pulling the swing arm.
My Koken t-handles are sweet, like them a lot more than MotionPro's.
Air tools are rarely needed unless you are tearing down the motor or pulling the swing arm.
ibedayank
Well-known member
If you are working on Harley's, I would suggest a good drip pan./QUOTE]
Every once in a while I start to wonder if the anti-Harley crowd is as douchey as I remember.
Confirmed..........
there are harley RIDERS and then there are weekend posers with to many credit cards that have NEVER turned on bolt on a bike. you know the type that ride in a tanktop flip flops and shorts with all the ride to live live to ride **** including the hats with the fake ponytails.
there are more brands of bikes to own then just harleys...lol
Being that i DO work for a pre 1975 BRITISH bike shop. I get to see and work on bikes that many of you have never even seen.
Ever heard of a SILK? or a Scott
ibedayank
Well-known member
you forget axlenuts.... sprockets and many other things that get done faster with airtools.... most used in our shop on bikes is a 3/8s butterfly impact
ZRX61
Well-known member
I guess it depends on what kind of bike you're working on... Better have a helicoil kit handy if you start blasting away on aluminum. Steel bolt + aluminum= stripped threads
ibedayank
Well-known member
I guess it depends on what kind of bike you're working on... Better have a helicoil kit handy if you start blasting away on aluminum. Steel bolt + aluminum= stripped threads
impact will take out more bolts with less damage than brute force alone.
Some of the stuff I strip for the parts has not been touched for 20 or more years left in the shed/barn/feild rusted and corroded.
add antisize to said bolts before you put it back togather for next time
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ibedayank
Well-known member
why you use a impact driver on said Jap bikes
ibedayank
Well-known member
Yup. They are generally FAR bigger douchebags than the riders they constantly insult.
And I don't even like H-Ds; I'm a Duc kind of guy
and what do you call the bmw crowd that has to go get all dressed up to ride around the block... Me grab helmet glasses and gloves...go ride
Maybe the case for British bikes, but for an American V-Twin or a large displacement single cylinder Japanese dirt bike loctite, is your friend NOT anti-seize. Have fun getting stuck in the middle of no where, cuz an important bolt/nut vibrated it self off.
PB Blaster and gradual controlled force will not damage a fastener as bad as an airtool. If needed, a hand held impact driver will provide a finer level of control than an impact gun or air ratchet.