Show me your conduit runs
- Thread starter icecactus
- Start date
IONH
Well-known member
How is the pricing of flexible conduit versus solid? Also, how does the pricing of the couplers compare to the solid?
In some ways I could see flexible being more forgiving to uneven surface mounts (e.g. across strapping). But in others, it may sag if there are not enough straps holding it up.
In some ways I could see flexible being more forgiving to uneven surface mounts (e.g. across strapping). But in others, it may sag if there are not enough straps holding it up.
Falcon67
Well-known member
I was going to use rigid for placing outlet boxes around the walls, but 100' of 12-2 MC cable and some clamps looks to be way cheaper and just as flexible for mounting and re-tooling if needed. Rigid is mo-pretty for sure.
Here is where i am planning on running my conduit and why i want ideas on how to make it look nice.
Sub panel mounting location. To the right is where my 50 amp RV plug is located and where i am going to pull power from.
I am planning on running 2 220V circuits. 1 for my table saw and another for the dust collector up in the upper left corner. I also want to run 2 120V circuits. All circuits will be going to the left of the sub panel to the end of the wall for now.
I am debating on running the conduit along the floor and then up to each outlet, or just straight across. Thats why i am hoping to see how some of you guys did yours.
Sub panel mounting location. To the right is where my 50 amp RV plug is located and where i am going to pull power from.
I am planning on running 2 220V circuits. 1 for my table saw and another for the dust collector up in the upper left corner. I also want to run 2 120V circuits. All circuits will be going to the left of the sub panel to the end of the wall for now.
I am debating on running the conduit along the floor and then up to each outlet, or just straight across. Thats why i am hoping to see how some of you guys did yours.
buzz4041
Well-known member
EMT get's my vote any day over sealtight for runs. Sealtight is for making a rigid connection to a tie in point. Just my preference I guess. Plus EMT is way easier to pull wire through and it gives a professional look when done right.
Attachments
Are you using 1/2" or 3/4" EMT?
rkevins
Well-known member
if you use conduit no matter what you use have a good plan in in you r head or on paper before you run any. Trust me things will go much better, faster and look a lot better.
Aceman
Well-known member
You guys spend a lot of time and money making your garages look pretty but then I've seen several of you buy aluminum bussed panels......yukk.
Going around the wall straight box to box, will be WAY faster and use a lot less wire. Plus, you'll be able to pull through several boxes at once. If you have different circuits in one conduit it makes it much easier to pull these circuits through the boxes that aren't using them. Use 3/4.
Going around the wall straight box to box, will be WAY faster and use a lot less wire. Plus, you'll be able to pull through several boxes at once. If you have different circuits in one conduit it makes it much easier to pull these circuits through the boxes that aren't using them. Use 3/4.
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
Mine is a just a simple run, split from the ceiling to two walls, down then horizontal front to back.
buzz4041
Well-known member
I used 1/2" and 3/4" both. Majority of runs for lighting and receptacles was done in 1/2". I did my welding machine outlets in 3/4" due to wire size that I pulled.
DSLTRK
Well-known member
Here is where i am planning on running my conduit and why i want ideas on how to make it look nice.
Sub panel mounting location. To the right is where my 50 amp RV plug is located and where i am going to pull power from.
I am planning on running 2 220V circuits. 1 for my table saw and another for the dust collector up in the upper left corner. I also want to run 2 120V circuits. All circuits will be going to the left of the sub panel to the end of the wall for now.
I am debating on running the conduit along the floor and then up to each outlet, or just straight across. Thats why i am hoping to see how some of you guys did yours.
Buy a flush mount and fish flex thru the attic/ceiling.
Wish i could. I have more experience doing that and its cleaner IMO. Problem is, the 16 foot high walls are made of 2 8' sections. So there is a 2x6 board that blocks the 2 sections. Not sure what you call that board, but it would make it very difficult to fish the wire down. Otherwise i would have for sure done it that way since i can get easy access to the wall to drop it down.
My garage has a 50 AMP RV plug. Thats where the RV plug was at. Its got 6 ga coming from the main panel. So I am going to use that as the feed into the sub panel. Then install another 50 am RV off the sub panel.
GN4WHLN
Well-known member
Not a great picture as I was taking a picture of the cabinets, however, you can see some overhead runs that feed my lighting. I have switch for the single fixture over the washer and drier, one for perimiter lighting, and one for the floor so I can light as needed. These are 1/2 conduit running 14 ga.
Highbeam
Well-known member
Cut out the sheetrock in that bay and recess the panel. Use the opened bay to run all your circuits up into the attic. You'll just bore holes through that center 2x6 board and of course the top plate. Sheetrock repair is way easier than all of the conduit runs that you'll have to surface mount.
Wouldnt i have to cut the sheetrock half way up the wall every place i wanted a plug in order to drill the 2x6?
cderalow
Well-known member
Yes.
But as stated, it's easier for a novice to patch drywall with a quick patch and some joint compound than it is for a novice to bend conduit.
Probably a bit less expensive too because you can run romex and use the cheap plastic boxes.
DSLTRK
Well-known member
Oh, you have fire blocks. I wish I could help, cause I have a long flexible "snake" drill bit to get thru 'em. If you can do patch work, I guess you could find the block with a stud finder and cut a section of drywall out to cut it. ,or if you have space in the attic, drill a hole thru top plate and use a pipe/sledge to knock the block down.
DSLTRK
Well-known member
Okay, that works, get rid of the 4S box and cut in a flush mount sub. but keep in mind you can only have around 55 amps of capacity before you pop the breaker at the main. If your conduit is big enough, you can fish some heavier gauge wire for more amperage. As always, length of the run, those hot AZ temps. and local codes influence the maximum amps the 6gauge run can handle.
Last edited: