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Show us your BENT stuff!

Keyblazer

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Jul 30, 2009
Messages
1,471
Location
Irvine, CA
Just recently got myself a used Hossfeld #2 Bender.
Never used this, or any other bender, so I thought this would be good thread to show us stuff you bent using a Hossfeld, JD, or other benders.

Lets see those Roll Cages, tubing, bar stock, ornamental stuff... whatever you are bending!
Lets see your tooling, setups, home brew trick and hydraulic conversions!

Go!
 
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sanddan

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Joined
Jul 7, 2005
Messages
708
Location
Oregon
I had some 1/4" acrylic sheets I got free from work and made a storage rack for my 5C collets. I used a heat gun to do the bends.

tray6.jpg

tray1b.jpg
 
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Keyblazer

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Jul 30, 2009
Messages
1,471
Location
Irvine, CA
I was thinking about metal, so that was a surprise!
Very cool!
Bent plastic, wood and whatever else done with bending tools, is all good!
 

Jack Olsen

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Los Angeles
I have a Hossfeld #1, but I haven't used it yet. I've done some bending with a cheap Harbor Freight roll bender, though.

My first stab was the horizontal piece for the bench in my garage.

outside-bench.jpg


Then I tried using it to make a shade structure for my patio.

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I liked that so much, I made a steel pergola over a deck I made for the back yard.

candles04.jpg


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I was able to do some tight bends for the gate. I also used the roll bender for the candle thing back on the wall.

bent.jpg


gater01.jpg


Most recently, I made a little stage for my kids' school.

sqvKtz.jpg


082opM.jpg
 
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Keyblazer

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Jul 30, 2009
Messages
1,471
Location
Irvine, CA
I found posts from you, Jack when researching the Hossfeld.
Beautiful work!

You too, Larry!

Please keep them coming, as they are enlightening, and inspirational!

Not done anything with my Hossfeld yet, as I am trying to learn how it works, and what it is capability of.
I have now pretty much got it all cleaned up, and have a basic idea of what I have. I am missing one important pin(19b4 Upin, with lug), and the manual handle, but I plan to convert it to Hydraulic, and am assebling a cutting list for the hardware to start with.

Before, and the tooling... turned out some of the stuff in the box was unrelated...:wtf:






After cleaning off rust, and a lick of satin black, and silver to protect it.



I made a huge step forward by ordering the manual, and it is enlightening..

 

f150skidoo

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Joined
Dec 29, 2012
Messages
1,206
Location
Ontario, Canada
Some neat stuff you guys bent up, Some time next week my 3' press brake is showing up to go in a 50 ton press i'm building.
 

56rpm

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Joined
Apr 19, 2012
Messages
354
Location
Bakersfield, Ca
JD3 Model 3. Added air/hydraulic ram which is well worth it.
Engine cross member 1-1/2"x .156, 4130.
1-1/8x.120 round tube 4130, Front upper control arms for my 69 Mustang.



 

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skipnay

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Joined
Dec 11, 2014
Messages
600
Location
PA
I have a Hossfeld #1, but I haven't used it yet. I've done some bending with a cheap Harbor Freight roll bender, though.

My first stab was the horizontal piece for the bench in my garage.

outside-bench.jpg


Then I tried using it to make a shade structure for my patio.

I liked that so much, I made a steel pergola over a deck I made for the back yard.


I was able to do some tight bends for the gate. I also used the roll bender for the candle thing back on the wall.


Most recently, I made a little stage for my kids' school.
Jack what all size material have you bent with that tubing bender? Any 2x2 square tubing or close to it? How well did it bend it? Been thinking about getting the Hulk from swag but might just do all the upgrades on the harbor freight piece!
 

Mike W.

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Joined
Sep 30, 2015
Messages
178
681bfd35b0d99cc9e9cddd04d6f134d4.jpg

Portable bandsaw stand. Built with Harbor Freight pipe bender out of 1/2" pipe. TIG welded together.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

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tlmartin84

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Joined
Apr 23, 2012
Messages
1,085
Location
West Virginia
Ground the paint off, grinded the crack out, heated the back of the plate and used a rather large hammer to persuade it back into position. Then I welded the gap shut and ground it down. It handled the 1x1x.125" just fine. prior to doing anything heavier I am going to plate it just to be sure.............
 

2oolhound

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Dec 18, 2010
Messages
5,918
Location
BC Canada
Hi guys, I thought I'd post some shots of what you can do if you were foolish enough to have agreed to hand your pay check over to your wife every payday or otherwise have found yourself in the poorhouse for what ever reason and little budget for tools.

I'm bending some 16 - 18 gage for a drawer by sandwiching it between 2 - 1/2"x5"x5' pieces of cold rolled and tapping it over with a hammer inch by inch a little at a time.




I'm making a belt guard for my compressor by bending some heavy sheet over a suitably sized piece of round stock clamped in the vise.




When I ran out of space on my wall board to hang some newly acquired hammers I needed to come up with something. I have an Italian accented shop with large pillars against the walls. There is a ton of dead space up high so I made a Hammer Rotisserie that fitted up high around one of the columns.

Bending some 1" sq. tubing over a 1/2 round block I'd cut with a jig saw.









This coil was cut into 1/2 circles. Blocks were tacked on the ends then drilled and tapped to join them back into full circles around the column.

Rectangular brackets were cut from some very light gauge channel and the radius was bent on the same jig so they could be welded to the rings.





The rotisserie will hold 28 hammers.




The contraption has no bearings but rotates quite easily by grabbing a hammer on the front and tugging it around to get the one you want.



I'm subscribing to this thread so I can figure out what bending gear to buy.

Awesome work here guys!
 

Jack Olsen

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Mar 22, 2009
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Los Angeles
Jack what all size material have you bent with that tubing bender? Any 2x2 square tubing or close to it? How well did it bend it? Been thinking about getting the Hulk from swag but might just do all the upgrades on the harbor freight piece!

I've done up to 2" so far, even though I don't have the dies for it. But with square tubing, a flat (or 1/2", in this case) die will work okay. But that cross piece is thinner-walled than the rest of the bench. The straight pieces are 1/8 and the piece I bent is 16ga. I don't doubt I could do 1/8" with the HF bender -- I have the HF pipe threader to turn the wheel -- but it didn't seem necessary for the bench.
 

Cue

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Joined
Jul 25, 2013
Messages
291
Location
Zebulon, NC
I've done up to 2" so far, even though I don't have the dies for it. But with square tubing, a flat (or 1/2", in this case) die will work okay. But that cross piece is thinner-walled than the rest of the bench. The straight pieces are 1/8 and the piece I bent is 16ga. I don't doubt I could do 1/8" with the HF bender -- I have the HF pipe threader to turn the wheel -- but it didn't seem necessary for the bench.

Those look great! How did you attach the Canvas? to the framework?
 
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Roberts210

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Dec 21, 2015
Messages
3,177
Location
Missouri
I bent lots of wood when building my house. I also bent lots of PVC brickmold.
This all started years ago when I lived in L.A. and realized I’d never be able to buy a nice house in the area where I lived. So I thought, “Well what CAN I do?”
I realized I could build some windows and at least I could put all that desire and energy into something tangible, and build my own house at a later date.

Here is one of the smallest windows. I built 20 windows--11 were arch-tops--all from clear Doug Fir. The screen frame is a cold-bent, lamination (I used the window frame as a form) but the window and frame are not. All glue joints were done with 100% waterproof structural glue.

130752663.jpg


Here’s the front. The square things are pegs.

130752239.jpg


Here you can see another size of window I built, and the yellow pine spacer I needed to make to fit between the window frame and the brickmold.
The Y.P. spacer is cold laminated while the brickmold—PVC—I bent by heating it till it was pliable as wet spaghetti and fitting it to a form.
That’s Stripey my helper who is a steely-eyed mouse-assassin in his own right.

153172711.jpg


Each lamination is about 1/8th inch thick, the piece is 3/4" thick. I cut all the laminations on my ’65 Unisaw and then ran them through my Rockwell planer. Each size of window required two different bending forms--one for the Y.P. spacer and one for the brickmold. I made 3 different sizes, so had to make 6 bending forms.

153172712.jpg


Here’s how I bent the PVC brickmold after heating it over a hotplate and using a heat gun.

153172717.jpg


I also made a round window for the bathroom, and needed a piece of round brickmold for it. Once heated limp, I had about 8 seconds to get it position before it started to harden.

153172719.jpg


153172720.jpg


Here are some views of the house with windows installed:

157926256.jpg



157926270.jpg


157926268.jpg
 
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Roberts210

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Dec 21, 2015
Messages
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Location
Missouri
I also built storm windows for each window. You can see them in some of the pictures. The stucco doesn't have the color coat on yet.
 
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TheEquineFencer

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Joined
Jan 15, 2009
Messages
9,278
Location
Farmville, NC 27828
Just recently got myself a used Hossfeld #2 Bender.
Never used this, or any other bender, so I thought this would be good thread to show us stuff you bent using a Hossfeld, JD, or other benders.

Lets see those Roll Cages, tubing, bar stock, ornamental stuff... whatever you are bending!
Lets see your tooling, setups, home brew trick and hydraulic conversions!

Go!

Congratulations on the bender. I have one also. I've just replaced my old one with a new one. I'm making my own hydraulic conversion attachment.
 
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Jack Olsen

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Those look great! How did you attach the Canvas? to the framework?

The frame of the cover for both the deck and the stage is 1-1/4" square tubing. I use hand clamps to position the fabric, and then put a length of 1/2" square tubing over that, sandwiching the fabric between them -- and drilling holes for little stainless-steel screws to compress the sandwich. Then (and I think this is key), I run a bead of adhesive, so that the edge of the fabric (which I've trimmed off) is 'globbed up' with enough adhesive that it would be just about impossible to pull the fabric through the gap. This picture is from the deck, but the implementation is the same for both it and the stage.

tSebIp.jpg


The smaller tubing is always on the non-visible side. The deck shade structure has endured the weather and the wind for almost four years now.
 

stsmytherie

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Joined
Dec 16, 2005
Messages
176
Location
VT
@Roberts210 Those windows are amazing and it makes the house totally unique. Strong work!
 

M35A2

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Jun 4, 2014
Messages
833
Location
Coos Bay, Oregon
Some pretty cool stuff here, for me, it's gotta have a motor. I use a JD2 model 3 with air over hydraulic. This was my second sandrail build, first one was a 4 seater with an LS1 in it. This build I went with a small 2 seater for our Oregon Dunes powered by a N/A Honda 3.5.
 

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M35A2

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Coos Bay, Oregon
Here are the pics back from powdercoating and some action shots.
 

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NUTTSGT

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Northern Central Ohio
Bending some 1" sq. tubing over a 1/2 round block I'd cut with a jig saw.






I'm subscribing to this thread so I can figure out what bending gear to buy.

Awesome work here guys!

Thanks for the idea 2oolhound, you have just given me an idea on the project I'm working on, LP tank bracket. I didn't think of cutting the block in half and sticking it in the vise.




 

bbcc

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Joined
Aug 1, 2012
Messages
39
Location
Edmonton
Awesome work all around guys! (eh eh see what i did there? All around...posts about bending...okay I'll stop). Some very creative work being done. Threads like this are my absolute favorites so keep the pics coming! I don't have much to add right now but that should change in the next week or so:3gears:
 
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Keyblazer

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Irvine, CA
I second that.
Thinking this will become an epic thread, with awesome ideas, and projects shared!

I found online, plans for the parts needed to add a Hydraulic setup to the Hossfeld.

The cutting list is mostly 3/8", 1/2" "Bar Stock" and 3/4" "Plate".

I am not super knowledgeable about steel, so was wondering if "Hot Rolled" stock is ok, or should I go with Cold Rolled?
 

2oolhound

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Thanks for the kind words Eric, we all have to start from somewhere so I figured a little stone age technology wouldn't hurt.

Keyblaser, I'm no steel expert either but I've been studying up on it. While cold rolled is better it is a small factor in the big scheme as the specific alloys used in steel making will determine it's main attributes. Most various types of alloys can be cold rolled. In my limited experience I've found cold rolled to be flatter, less scale or a smoother surface with sharper edges. I'd think it would be a better choice where holes are drilled for continuous pivoting actions or high stress areas like bearing bosses where precise positioning must be maintained throughout the life of the equipment.

Here is some condensed notes I've taken from a text book that should shed some light on the subject.

Any metal in solid form and shaped by force is wrought. Steel can be shaped hot or cold. Hot shaping is done above Critical Temp (temp at which some change occurs in the metal). Hot softens and leaves it stress free. Cold hardens and increases strength but sets up stress. Metal is often worked hot then cold, then annealed followed by more cold shaping to prevent fracture and relieve stresses. Most products are wrought by rolling, forging, drawing (wire), piercing or extruding (tubing).

Hot Rolling - Hot ingots pass through rollers increasing length and decreasing diameter. Ingots go from 20” to 6” in 14 passes in 5 minutes. Makes it finer grained and tougher.
Hot ingots are rolled on 4 sides to form blooms, billets or slabs, then onto finishing, reheated and rolled to the final form.
Blooms - are square or rectangular with a cross section of 36” sq. in or more. Used for I beams, channel, angle and rails
Billets - Also square or rectangular but less than 36” sq. Used for rods, pipes, tubes, slabs, wider and thinner plate, sheet and strip.
Hot rolling’s primary reason is shaping the steel but secondary is improving it.

Cold Rolling - Follows hot rolling
1 - Shapes into more complex shapes or precise dimensions.
2 - Improves the internal structure and external surface
 

VoodooCLD

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Joined
Sep 12, 2014
Messages
412
The frame of the cover for both the deck and the stage is 1-1/4" square tubing. I use hand clamps to position the fabric, and then put a length of 1/2" square tubing over that, sandwiching the fabric between them -- and drilling holes for little stainless-steel screws to compress the sandwich. Then (and I think this is key), I run a bead of adhesive, so that the edge of the fabric (which I've trimmed off) is 'globbed up' with enough adhesive that it would be just about impossible to pull the fabric through the gap. This picture is from the deck, but the implementation is the same for both it and the stage.

tSebIp.jpg


The smaller tubing is always on the non-visible side. The deck shade structure has endured the weather and the wind for almost four years now.

Jack, what material did you use for the canopy? Where did you buy it at? Looks great, and if you say it holds up well i'd like to build one for my backyard.
 

Jack Olsen

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Thanks. It's Coolaroo shade fabric, which I got from Amazon. It's made of polypropylene, which is a just-about-indestructable plastic.
 

C_F

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Joined
Jan 21, 2005
Messages
9,675
Location
Utah...SNOW BLOWS!
Jack, your deck cover looks like a work of art...very nice!:beer:

I bent lots of wood when building my house. I also bent lots of PVC brickmold...

Man, I'll say you sure did! Thanks for sharing your photos with us, that's some amazing work on the windows!!:bowdown:
 

Slate Concepts 4x4

New member
Joined
May 3, 2016
Messages
4
Just running a Rogue Fab tube bender.
 

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