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Justanoldguy

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Jun 1, 2008
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Location
Atiamuri. Central North Island. New Zealand
Got this old timer given to me.
The guy who gave it to me is 75
and it was his fathers.

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softailgarage

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Apr 20, 2011
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5,153
Location
Bullhead City, Az.
Well, I didn't see this model yet, 1942 Craftsman bench 103.0308 w/ Dunlap motor. She's pretty beat up, chuck keeps falling off, table is pretty grooved up. I started to restore it but couldn't stand that blue color. When I finally do it will probably be gray. What I'm really waiting for is a power bronze 150 :drool::drool::drool:

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Outlawmws

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The Badlands
well here ya go first up 1970s delta Rockwell radial drill press.. number two was my grandpas 1947 craftsman mod 80 bench top..
and just picked this one up 50s mod Craftsman 100 floor model (need to find me a vintage motor for this one)..
and last and my fav so far is the first generation Delta 17" with foot feed and the rare cast belt guards and original repulsion induction motor just finished the restore on this one just makes me smile every time I fire her up.

Wow the delta is incredible!
 

Tim338

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Apr 6, 2013
Messages
91
Here is a couple of pics of my Excelsior 15" (sorry for the one sideways) I just picked up. It has already been restored so no work for me :thumbup:. I need to have the belts shortened as they do slip a little. It has been a long search looking for this style drill press. It payed off to be be picky. Anyone want to buy a Walker Turner?
 

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gilbo

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Feb 1, 2010
Messages
716
my new addition, just a delta 11-120

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markw365

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Aug 16, 2011
Messages
207
My neighbor has an old table top craftsman. I think the mfg is 103/King Sealy. It's newer than mine and the spindle doesn't center over the hole in the table. Mine's a 1943ish Atlas which is posted on page 9. Question, shouldn't the spindle center over the center hole on the table, or has someone in the past on this drill press swapped tables. The spindle is centered fore/aft at almost the back edge of the center hole.
 

zkling

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Jan 23, 2007
Messages
16,939
and last and my fav so far is the first generation Delta 17" with foot feed and the rare cast belt guards and original repulsion induction motor just finished the restore on this one just makes me smile every time I fire her up.

Beautiful machine, great restoration and YOU ****. I have the same machine, sans the rear belt guard. :sad: That is one sweet setup you have. All you need is the head crank and you would have the works out of the 1940 delta drill press lineup. :drool: Looks like you are missing your condom, be careful without it. :lol: :beer:
 
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Outlawmws

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My neighbor has an old table top craftsman. I think the mfg is 103/King Sealy. It's newer than mine and the spindle doesn't center over the hole in the table. Mine's a 1943ish Atlas which is posted on page 9. Question, shouldn't the spindle center over the center hole on the table, or has someone in the past on this drill press swapped tables. The spindle is centered fore/aft at almost the back edge of the center hole.

Almost certain the table has been swapped, that table belongs on something with about 1/2" - 1" more throat depth
 

jakemac

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May 21, 2013
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Location
New England
I was just scrolling through the 1945 Atlas catalog because, well, I was bored. On page 47 I found a nice cutaway picture of the spindle area on their DP's, and thought that I'd post it here for those of you who are tearing one apart to restore it. This will be helpful for other manufactures as well. Enjoy.

.
 

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nonhog

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Nov 6, 2007
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2,449
Location
Arizona (Tucson)
My Garage sale find. $50.00. My wife found it for me.:thumbup:
DPRESS.jpg

DP2.jpg

Last use it would not shut off. Needs a new switch. Pretty simple fix. Just haven't gotten around to it.
 

kythri

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Jan 3, 2007
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Location
Lebanon, OR
So, for a lot of these older drill presses, are covers for the belt/motor/rear pulley something that never existed from the factory, or are a lot of these just lost in time?
 

jakemac

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May 21, 2013
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New England
IIRC,

up through the mid 30's - no pulley cover, just spindle covers

sometime mid 30's -40's covers slowly became available as an accessory

1950's - up, covers were included.

Of course, this is a generalization, and it really depends on the mftr and model.
YMMV
 

the king crew

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May 16, 2011
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31
Location
SoCal
Here is my Buffalo 18. It is the one tool in the shop that I am completely happy with. The spindle bearings are noisy but it is rock solid and still runs straight and true. When I got it I filled the arc of shame with JB Weld and replaced the chuck with a Jacob's.
Lee
 

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kythri

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Alrighty, well, reason I was asking is, I just picked this up for $75.

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Figured I'd clean it up and what not for my dad to have a drill press.

I'm going to guess that the cover is homemade, not entirely sure why there's a plywood-and-2x6 spacer in there, but the thing works well, and is solid. Just needs de-rusted and polished up.

It obviously needs a few tweaks - the switch is broken, the switch actuator bar doesn't appear to be original, so it can either be removed or re-attached to a new switch. The quad-lever arm doesn't appear to be original. There's a bite out of a pulley, but, all in all, I'm not too heartbroken about the $75. For a functional drill press, it was well worth it.

Question, though. What's this thing here:

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It rocks back and forth a bit, and is pointy at the end where the blue arrow is pointing. Curious what function it serves.

Also, what's this:

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It appears broken, but it's two seperate pieces of something that rotate independently of each other.
 

zkling

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Jan 23, 2007
Messages
16,939
I'm going to guess that the cover is homemade, not entirely sure why there's a plywood-and-2x6 spacer in there, but the thing works well, and is solid. Just needs de-rusted and polished up.

Nice drill press for $75. :drool: That is an early Delta DP220, a basic, common, good quality 14" drill press. The front guard is original, the rear guard is homemade. Original rear (cast) guards for those presses are SUPER rare. Most of the time in factories there were either removed or destroyed over the years. That drill press is 65+ years old.

Question, though. What's this thing here:

It rocks back and forth a bit, and is pointy at the end where the blue arrow is pointing. Curious what function it serves.

That is a drilling depth indicator. There are or should be engraving marks on the quill like a ruler. That pointer tells you how far you have drilled into your material (quill movement). Basic but effective. :beer:

The wood spacer is probably because some lazy person didn't order or didn't want to order the proper length belt.
 
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454ragtop

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Mar 24, 2008
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Carver, MA
kythri. I noticed there is a lot of column showing above the head, usually the head is placed so it is even with the top of the column. That may explain the wood spacers, if for some reason they wanted the head lower than usual, they may have needed the motor further out so the belt didn't rub the column at the slowest speed.
Jim
 

kythri

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Good to know, thanks to both of you!

Out of curiosity, is this broken pulley a generic item? Because my casual digging at the moment is leading me to pulleys costing $200+ as a replacement.
 

bisley45

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Oct 30, 2012
Messages
347
Location
Rogers, Arkansas
Beautiful machine, great restoration and YOU ****. I have the same machine, sans the rear belt guard. :sad: That is one sweet setup you have. All you need is the head crank and you would have the works out of the 1940 delta drill press lineup. :drool: Looks like you are missing your condom, be careful without it. :lol: :beer:

Thanks man. I am going to turn a condom on my lathe one of these days.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2
 

454ragtop

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Carver, MA
Good to know, thanks to both of you!

Out of curiosity, is this broken pulley a generic item? Because my casual digging at the moment is leading me to pulleys costing $200+ as a replacement.

Might look over on OWWM, think the spindle pulley is a little easier to find than the motor pulley, and, no, it's not a generic item. Note also, it's the sheave for the highest speed. Don't think I've ever used the high speed on any of my drill presses.
HTH, Jim
 

zkling

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Jan 23, 2007
Messages
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Good to know, thanks to both of you!

Out of curiosity, is this broken pulley a generic item? Because my casual digging at the moment is leading me to pulleys costing $200+ as a replacement.

No it is not a generic pulley. They have a gear broached IIRC inside of them for engagement with the spindle drive. They aren't THAT rare or expensive ($<40). If it is just that one chip I'd leave it and live with it. I use to have one of those presses before I upgraded to my current 17" machine. What is the diameter of the bottom/large side of the spindle pulley? It looks like the low speed model, which IIRC would be ~400-2000 RPM. Good enough for what it was designed for (3/8" twist in steel, 1/2" CI).
 
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thundermug

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Sep 10, 2012
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usa
I'm on the lookout for an old bench top drill press. Between 1940s-1970s. When looking at an older drill press, how can I tell if it's incomplete or a "lemon".
I have a checklist when I look at an old vise. What should be on my drill press checklist to make sure I'm not buying a boat anchor?
 

zkling

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I'm on the lookout for an old bench top drill press. Between 1940s-1970s. When looking at an older drill press, how can I tell if it's incomplete or a "lemon".
I have a checklist when I look at an old vise. What should be on my drill press checklist to make sure I'm not buying a boat anchor?

If it is missing or has damaged critical parts I would consider it to be incomplete, then proceed on a case by case basis depending on parts and make/model.

Drill presses are probably the simplest powered tool that you can get into. Just a basic visual and noise check will get you pretty far. Any cracked castings, missing bits, spindle runout (when I buy a drill press I bring a dial indicator and mag base), any loud noises when it is running? Does the quill feed down smooth? bunch of extra holes in the table?

Hope that helps. :beer:
 

Outlawmws

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The Badlands
I was just scrolling through the 1945 Atlas catalog because, well, I was bored. On page 47 I found a nice cutaway picture of the spindle area on their DP's, and thought that I'd post it here for those of you who are tearing one apart to restore it. This will be helpful for other manufactures as well. Enjoy.

.

Cool page, - Thanks! Any other data on the '45 atlas stuff? :drool:
 

thundermug

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usa
zkilng - Thanks. I'm taking my time with this one. I'll probably buy one from a trusted member of GJ, if it's what I'm looking for.
 

kythri

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Lebanon, OR
Quick question for you - what do you suppose the model number of the drill press I posted is? I thought it was "DP 220" but apparently, that's just the part number of that cast piece.
 

zkling

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Quick question for you - what do you suppose the model number of the drill press I posted is? I thought it was "DP 220" but apparently, that's just the part number of that cast piece.

As I posted above it is called a DP220 a 14" machine. As for the catalog order number, you would have to build it, something like a 1289 "SLOFC". But all you need to say is DP220 when you look for parts.
 

kythri

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Gotcha.

Wasn't sure, as when I was digging around places like here:

http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=1141&tab=3&sort=1&th=false&fl=

and

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/2823.pdf

It seemed that the model numbers were more along the line of 14-007 or 14-207 (say, for example, in the 1947 listings). In the manual for those models, it indicated that DP-220 was the part number for the head casting (as opposed to say, DP-222 being the index pointer).

Was just curious if there was any way to specifically narrow it down to which actual model it was, and what year it might have been made.
 

zkling

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Jan 23, 2007
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Post the serial number and I will look into it. They were built in a multitude of configs tables speeds, spindles thus they had as built model numbers or more accurately catalog numbers.

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/DeltaSerialNumbers.ashx

EDIT, never mind, it looks like your machine is missing the serial number tag.
 
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kythri

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:(

Where would it have been located?

No big deal, I suppose.

So, there may have been a couple of different spindle pulleys? A low-speed pulley (like what I have, apparently - the bottom pulley/sheave is 7.5" while the top is 4.5") and perhaps a "high-speed" pulley with smaller sheaves?
 

zkling

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So, there may have been a couple of different spindle pulleys? A low-speed pulley (like what I have, apparently - the bottom pulley/sheave is 7.5" while the top is 4.5") and perhaps a "high-speed" pulley with smaller sheaves?

Read through this or at least the drill press section. It should answer alot of questions. :beer: Warning it is a good side PDF

Link
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=5741

Direct to PDF
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/5741.pdf
 

GenPatTuck

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Oct 18, 2013
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Hello! I am new to this forum. So my question is this....
I have a vintage craftsman dp and the chuck just came right off while doing some work. There isnt a set screw to keep it on, so what gives? This thing works like a charm but am having this issue and its keeping me from finishing some important projects.
 

Alchymist

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Hello! I am new to this forum. So my question is this....
I have a vintage craftsman dp and the chuck just came right off while doing some work. There isnt a set screw to keep it on, so what gives? This thing works like a charm but am having this issue and its keeping me from finishing some important projects.

Try this in Google: Host:garagejournal.com"morse taper".
 

zkling

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Try this in Google: Host:garagejournal.com"morse taper".

More than likely it is actually a Jacobs Taper like JT33

And I think the search modifier you are thinking of to put into google is....

"morse taper site:garagejournal.com" without the quotes that will return a site specific search.

Hello! I am new to this forum. So my question is this....
I have a vintage craftsman dp and the chuck just came right off while doing some work. There isnt a set screw to keep it on, so what gives? This thing works like a charm but am having this issue and its keeping me from finishing some important projects.

Hi, welcome to GJ. Your drill press more than likely has a JT33 taper for a 0-1/2" drill chuck. The chuck is held on by the taper only, which is sufficient enough to keep the chuck from spinning. What were you doing when the chuck came off? If the taper surfaces are in good condition and clean you should be able to just press the chuck back on by resting it on a block of wood and then putting down on the drill press handle. If it keeps coming off you more than likely have a burr or other issue on the taper mating surfaces.
 
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Alchymist

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More than likely it is actually a Jacobs Taper like JT33

And I think the search modifier you are thinking of to put into google is....

"morse taper site:garagejournal.com" without the quotes that will return a site specific search.

Yep, your search term is better......
As to the taper, depends where the chuck fell off. A lot of drill presses use a MT2 to JT33 adapter. Either way, the logic behind the tapers is the same, as is the cure - clean non-dinged surfaces.
 
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