Show us your cool, "old" drill press

[Drill]

Thanks Guys
I searched around on vintagemachinery. It appears to be a 1920 or at least I found a Hamilton 20 in a 1920 catalog over there. I believe it was a lineshaft machine you can see the lower pulleys are hanging by someones invention, not setting on the base of the drill where they should be. The motor is currently bolted down there. I would like to restore it back to the original configuration and place the electric motor to the side. I've seen several like this and not only does it look more correct, Its probably safer not to have all that weight just hanging there

 

[toddmp]

Picked this up for $70 last weekend at a garage sale. it is in beautiful condition. Need some suggestions to get rid of the ugly switch though. anything more period correct out there? Hate how it messes with the lines on this classic press.

 

[Bill Ramsey]

Picked this up for $70 last weekend at a garage sale. it is in beautiful condition. Need some suggestions to get rid of the ugly switch though. anything more period correct out there? Hate how it messes with the lines on this classic press.

That's a beaut. I have it's floor-model cousin. Mine came with a similar improvised switch box (obviously not "factory"), attached to the motor bracket. I wonder if these came with a factory switch at all? What kind of hole or holes were drilled in the side of your head stock, to mount that switch box? Mine (and I think all of these Craftsman presses) does not have any factory holes in that spot, but if a PO drilled one hole there, you might be able to mount a suitable toggle switch there without further modification.

 

[tombell572]

Drill, that's the first Hamilton camelback that I've seen. The motor set-up may not be too far off from original--in later hears, camelbacks were offered with an electric motor option. Check the base of the drill to see if that gives any indication of a factory mount or a later conversion.

I believe Hamilton was best known for their line of precision small high-speed sensitive drills with chucks taking sizes from 1/8" down to size 80.

A nice machine you've got.

Tom B.

 

[Drill]

Thanks Tom
As you can see by the close ups the mount for the lower pulleys is pretty cobbled together out of 1/8" plate and Ubolts. Not factory for sure. I haven't taken the motor off it yet but it appears that the lower base is where the lower pulleys go. The oil cups for that shaft have been replace with grease zerks because they now point at the floor. This makes me think that the pulleys are upside down.
I've found very little mention of it also, lots of info on those sesitive drills though. I'll keep searching

 

[Drill]

Here's a crappy picture of the brass dealer tag

 

[tombell572]

Yes, I can see that now--clearly a retrofit and not real pretty. The bottom cone would have sat upright on the base as you noted. Weather that cone pully shaft runs in bronze sleeve bearings or babbit, it should be lubed with oil as originally intended rather than grease. I love those old dealer's tags.

Tom B.

 

[CalsXS2]

Picked this up for $70 last weekend at a garage sale. it is in beautiful condition. Need some suggestions to get rid of the ugly switch though. anything more period correct out there? Hate how it messes with the lines on this classic press.

I have the earlier 1954 version model 100. The switch is built into the motor base.

As far as what to do with the hole? I have a hole in my 1936 Walker Turner that I made a light for and mounted in the hole.

Didn't Bill Murry say in Caddy Shack... "It's in the hole".

 

[Drill]

I've got that same awesome switch mounted on mine accept they used a deco light switch. I'm looking for an old red/black on off machine switch for mine

 

[crguy]

Yes, I can see that now--clearly a retrofit and not real pretty. The bottom cone would have sat upright on the base as you noted. Weather that cone pully shaft runs in bronze sleeve bearings or babbit, it should be lubed with oil as originally intended rather than grease. I love those old dealer's tags.

Tom B.

Actually, grease works just fine for those, and if there is normal wear it will stay in the bearing better.
Hit & Miss gas engines have babbitt bearings with grease lube, and they run faster than that drill press will.

 

[Drill]

Actually, grease works just fine for those, and if there is normal wear it will stay in the bearing better.
Hit & Miss gas engines have babbitt bearings with grease lube, and they run faster than that drill press will.

I'm still going to flip it over proper some day and put oil cups back in. The poor things has been hanging upside down for too long I'm sure. Besides it ugly upside down. I'm sure it was done to save space, Keeping everything in the foot print of the drill. For now it functions but one day it will get put back proper

 

[Vette10R]

I picked up this old Buffalo Forge last night, I would like to find some original parts for it if anyone has a source please PM me. Thanks

 

[bubinga]

toddmp,
You can drill a hole in that head easy, and install a Toggle.
IMO, that box/switch don't look bad, if you tidy up the wires.
But yes, these are easy to drill. I drilled mine, I had two switches,
on/off, and hi/low. It was a 2 speed motor.
start with say a 1/4" , then a 3/8" then a 7/16" and a 1/2" etc, and bigger if you need.
Nice score BTY!!

As far as what to do with the hole?
they have those black plastic or rubber caps or plugs, you can fill the hole with.
would look like it belonged there.
Or even one of those chrome caps/Plugs.
if you don't end up putting a light in it.

 

[Outlawmws]

Todd, first get the box off and see what hole(s) are already drilled. If an electrician mounted it, they may have used a box coupler.

 

[crguy]

Picked this up for $70 last weekend at a garage sale. it is in beautiful condition. Need some suggestions to get rid of the ugly switch though. anything more period correct out there? Hate how it messes with the lines on this classic press.

You could mount that box to the side of the motor mount plate. That way it wouldn't stick out on the main casting like a sore thumb, but would still be handy.

 

[toddmp]

Thanks everyone for the great ideas. I'll report back.

 

[NUTTSGT]

You could mount that box to the side of the motor mount plate. That way it wouldn't stick out on the main casting like a sore thumb, but would still be handy.

That's what I did with the drill press that I posted a page or two ago. I also painted it black to subdue it a bit rather than the bright out of place galvanized look.

 

[Drill]

Making chips in slo-mo with a dull 1 1/4' bit. Although its not an auto feed the handle is heavy enough that it act as an auto feed

Click on the picture for video!!

 

[crguy]

Making chips in slo-mo with a dull 1 1/4' bit. Although its not an auto feed the handle is heavy enough that it act as an auto feed

With auto feed you would be making curls instead of chips, and the bit wouldn't be jumping around like that.

 

[Drill]

I figured it was because the bit needs sharpening

 

[zkling]

You need more down feed pressure; as drill bit diameter increases, speed decreases but feed pressure needed to properly cut increases. A sharpening and checking of equal length on the cutting edges is a good idea as well.

 

[Drill]

You rock dude!! Thanks for the tip. That's the biggest drill bit I have ever used at 1 1/4" it came with the drill

You need more down feed pressure; as drill bit diameter increases, speed decreases but feed pressure needed to properly cut increases. A sharpening and checking of equal length on the cutting edges is a good idea as well.

 

[nine4gmc]

That's a model 80 Chilang, looks to be missing the table.

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[exmaxima1]

Picked this Older Craftsman up for $50 with the home made stand.

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I noticed that the motor pulley is upside down from normal, unless that press has the optional slow speed third pulley. If so, you **** at that price!

 

[jakemac]

I don't see evidence of a third pulley there. It would be inserted in the top of the post.
IIRC, the model 80 had a smaller dia. post than the 100 or 150. So make sure you're aware of this and ask questions before buying a table off the internet so that it will fit.

 

[bawb]

And of course a couple more of my old Craftsman 150 with the treadmill motor conversion

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That looks pretty good, do you have a writeup on how you did the treadmill motor conversion?
Or do you have any links to a good how to do it?
I've already got the treadmill but need to figure out what else I can use from it besides the motor, and what I need to buy.

 

[bubinga]

Re: Show us your cool, "old" drill press

No I never did a write-up I would search around on the hobby Machinist website and you should find some help over there actually everything I needed came off the treadmill with the exception of the box I got that somewhere else you can get a little hobby box at Radio Shack if you can still find them. I used the control board and the wiring everything off the treadmill as long as it has a potentiometer type think that's the easiest.

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[bubinga]

No I never did a write-up I will search around on the hobby Machinist website and he should find some help over there actually everything I need it came off the treadmill with the exception of the box I'm not at it and I find that somewhere else you can get a little hobby box at Radio Shack if you can still find them I used to control board in the wiring everything off the treadmill as long as it has a potentiometer type think that's the easiest

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Basically you have A/C power into the board, DC power out, and Three wires
out to the Pot.
M/C 60 treadmill board is often used, and they caution you NOT to ground the chassis on them, supposed to burn the unit up if you do.
the one I used, was grounded, as the board chassis was bolted to the tread mill frame, and the ground wire was bolted to the frame, So I grounded that one.
KBIC-120 is said to be a good board too.
I have a few on the classifieds for sale if you need one.

 

[bubinga]

Basically you have A/C power into the board, DC power out, and Three wires
out to the Pot.
M/C 60 treadmill board is often used, and they caution you NOT to ground the chassis on them, supposed to burn the unit up if you do.
the one I used, was grounded, as the board chassis was bolted to the tread mill frame, and the ground wire was bolted to the frame, So I grounded that one.
KBIC-120 is said to be a good board too.
I have a few on the classifieds for sale if you need one.

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[Tedley]

My latest bench top...


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[bubinga]

NICE

 

[Tedley]

That looks pretty good, do you have a writeup on how you did the treadmill motor conversion?
Or do you have any links to a good how to do it?
I've already got the treadmill but need to figure out what else I can use from it besides the motor, and what I need to buy.

I salvaged a treadmill motor and control board... Figured I could use some of the steel tubing but haven't. Have repurposed some rubber bumpers and stuff but mine had two steel rollers(ball bearing) approx 20-22" ? Wide for some sort of in/out-feed roller someday. I've yet to use the motor and need more confidence before I wire up a different user interface? to control it with. Tools probably look kinda funny with a treadmill control panel strapped on.

Basically you have A/C power into the board, DC power out, and Three wires
out to the Pot.
M/C 60 treadmill board is often used, and they caution you NOT to ground the chassis on them, supposed to burn the unit up if you do.
the one I used, was grounded, as the board chassis was bolted to the tread mill frame, and the ground wire was bolted to the frame, So I grounded that one.
KBIC-120 is said to be a good board too.
I have a few on the classifieds for sale if you need one.

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[Rick M]

I've used 2 treadmill motors and on both I was able to ditch the original control panel and wire up a potentiometer. Here is the schematic:
http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/2014/11/how-to-get-variable-speed-on-cheap.html



And this should be helpful
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=289922

 

[Outlawmws]

Tedley here is my TM conversion: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=159224

 

[aircommuter]

This is my Superior drill press made in Kokomo IN. when it was an industrial city,
this one is from 1899. It works great, power down feed as slow as .003" per revolution and has auto stop.

 

[Rick M]

That Superior is a beautiful piece of engineering.

 

[Tonellin]

Can anyone give me some info on this old craftsman?

 

[nine4gmc]

There is a member doing a restoration on one right now for a charity auction, there may be info in that thread on the model specifics. Search "Craftsman Drill Press" and see if you see it.

 

[Tonellin]

There is a member doing a restoration on one right now for a charity auction, there may be info in that thread on the model specifics. Search "Craftsman Drill Press" and see if you see it.

Thanks!

Found this thread. Tons of good info - looks like it might predate the 50's era 100 but will have to do more research. Almost as much info in this thread as the block grinder one haha

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=227480&highlight=Craftsman+Drill+Press

Edit: Getting closer!

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=326136

 

[nine4gmc]

I was referring to the second link but yes, Frank Lee's thread should be a sticky, it's extremely infomative! Glad you found them, maybe post in either one of those if no one jumps in here.

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