Show us your VFD conversions/installations

[nine4gmc]

I've tried reading the parameters five times now and still no comprehension.

I also tried running the VFD at 100hz and was able to stop it with my hand still. So... from 50hz, 60hz and 100hz I can sto pit by hand. I set the freq to 200hz and it was clearly not good for my motor by the sounds and barely moving.

There's no mention of a motor tune feature that I can find for this model.

The good news is, I no longer have to spin-start the spindle, it slowly spins up by itself now. Still easy to stop by hand though.

I may test the spare motor tomorrow.

 

[Davefr]

My Teco/Westinghouse VFD came today and I was able to get it installed on my Delta DP 220 Drill Press. I had already put a 1 HP- 3 phase Baldor motor on it and went with the Teco L510 120 v input- 230 volt, 3 phase output - rated at 1 HP.
So the motor is (Nameplate Rated) 1725 rpm at 60 hz, I am curious as to what the chuck is spinning (my belts are on the middle pulleys) I would like to know so I can make adjustments for drilling metal or wood?

(The default frequency for this drive is 5 hz, which I changed to 60hz, the range is 0-599 hz)
I will put external remote start/stop/Pot on later

The Teco L510 has a parameter you can set that will give you spindle speed from the digital readout. (instead of Hz). You'll just need to set it based on your pulley ratios. The manual describes how to do it.

I have my pulleys set for highest speed and the VFD will give me a useful range of about 200 to 3000 RPM. I haven't had a problem with torque at the low speed since my motor is 1.5 HP. If low end torque becomes a problem just gear down pulley ratios however you'll sacrifice top end speed. It just takes some experimenting to find the sweet spot for your drilling preferences.

I'd also suggest doing an autotune. That will fine tune the VFD to the actual motor vs some pre-programmed look up table.

P.S. You might also be able to overclock your motor to gain even more speed range. I was advised that 1.5X for a 1750 motor is pretty safe but after that it may become iffy. However you shouldn't overclock a 3450 RPM motor.

 

[dw1]

Thanks Dave. I will check all that out. I have the frequency set on 60 hz right now, spindle speed sounds like a good parameter. I will autotune the motor, just haven't had much time this week. Thanks Again

 

[foghorn1966]

Nines, from what you were last describing I think you have a motor issue with the mill motor.
A three phase motor with one phase lost will behave like you are describing.

 

[laser3kw]

If your "spare motor" winds up and has pull and your mill motor does not act the same, your assumption about the mill motor is right.

Here is a link on how to check a 3 phase motor with an ohm meter.

checking out a 3 phase motor link

In a nut shell:
(with the vfd output disconnected from the motor)
any lead to case ground should be "infinite" / open / does not show an electrical path
All readings between any two (of the three) motor connection leads should be the same ohm reading.
motor winding leads x-y-z = xy, xz, yz readings

 

[nine4gmc]

Do I need to separate the 3 pairs of wires and ohm out all 6 individual wires? If I can leave them in pairs as they were connected to the power source, then I have the results.

I ohmed out 3 pairs, like above and got:

x-y= 8.2 ohms
x-z= 5.4 ohms <------ Is this one leaking voltage?
y-z= 8.2 ohms

 

[laser3kw]

if it has the six wires tied together in groups of two, do not separate them. The link explains why this is. It is so the motor can be configured for different supply schemes (voltage). Is the a tag on the motor showing the different configurations? Is this a genuine Bridgeport motor? Do any of the pairs show continuity to ground / case?
From what you posted it may have a bad winding. Only a motor shop can confirm.

 

[nine4gmc]

Yes, the motor tag shows 220/440 dual voltage and the bands on the wires indicate it is wired for 220. This is a genuine BP motor, it's even "Asbestos Protected" None of the pairs show continuity to ground, the only issue I can find is the one leg with lower resistance to the other leg.

 

[bsaint]

here is a old craftsman band saw that i bought with no motor and a broken step pulley a friend told me about vfd. drives and i was hooked! no step pulleys needed just adjust the speed on the vfd.

That VFD has zero IP rating. Are you sure you want to mount it there?

 

[dw1]

The Teco L510 has a parameter you can set that will give you spindle speed from the digital readout. (instead of Hz). You'll just need to set it based on your pulley ratios. The manual describes how to do it.

I have my pulleys set for highest speed and the VFD will give me a useful range of about 200 to 3000 RPM. I haven't had a problem with torque at the low speed since my motor is 1.5 HP. If low end torque becomes a problem just gear down pulley ratios however you'll sacrifice top end speed. It just takes some experimenting to find the sweet spot for your drilling preferences.

I'd also suggest doing an autotune. That will fine tune the VFD to the actual motor vs some pre-programmed look up table.

I was adjusting some parameters today, I turned the "Autotune" parameter to 1 and it started running, is that all to it? I have never used that before!!

 

[Davefr]

I was adjusting some parameters today, I turned the "Autotune" parameter to 1 and it started running, is that all to it? I have never used that before!!

The first step is to set 00-00 to 1. That selects sensorless vector mode (SLV).

Now enter all your motor nameplate data into 02-01 and 02-03 thru 06.

The next step is to perform the actual autotune by setting 02-07 = 1. The VFD will automatically take some motor winding measurements, enter some parameters into 02-7, 8 and then display END and set 02-07 back to 0 since to procedure has been completed.

That's all there is to it.

 

[dw1]

The first step is to set 00-00 to 1. That selects sensorless vector mode (SLV).

Now enter all your motor nameplate data into 02-01 and 02-03 thru 06.

The next step is to perform the actual autotune by setting 02-07 = 1. The VFD will automatically take some motor winding measurements, enter some parameters into 02-7, 8 and then display END and set 02-07 back to 0 since to procedure has been completed.

That's all there is to it.

Well, thank you very much Dave , I might ride back over after dinner and try it out.

 

[dw1]

Set everything up and did the auto tune, it worked great. Thanks again.

 

[bsaint]

Converted from wye delta start to DOL to ultimately VFD.

Before

After I removed the XYZ and wye contactors. Added some terminal blocks and a relay. The wiring is still somewhat messy I tried to tidy it up as much as I could. The wire ducts were missing covers before I even got to it.

Oversized drive on back. Hitachi is a very nice drive to work with. Id recommend these over Teco.

 

[nine4gmc]

This model VFD, how would I hook up a normal light switch as the remote power on/off? Also, for a remote speed control do I just hook up a 10k pot to the terminals shown on the link below?

VFD= HY01D523B

 

[laser3kw]

use a double throw switch for a three way light circuit. Hook the common DCM to the common / center terminal on the switch. Hook FOR to the top side terminal. Hook the REV to the lower terminal. Now you have forward / reverse function.
You may have to adjust parameters.
Then you hook you pot to analog VR / VI / ACM as shown for speed control. The center wiper of the pot goes to VI

edit:
in the above switch operation there would be no "off" position. Add a switch between DCM and that will give you on / off

edit 2:
or (better yet) get a single pole / double throw / center off switch. it would wire the same accept when you in the center position, the drive would be in a no run mode.
The VFD will not be "off" as in de-energized / no lights. If you want to kill power total, then you would wire one of these to the 240v single phase supply side:
Levitron DPDT 240 switch link
With these switches, you wire each leg of your 240v single phase feed to the appropriate terminals and then to the VFD. It then will cut power by disconnecting both legs at the same time..

Good time to note: do not cycle the 240v power on and off repeatedly. This may blow the power caps inside the VFD. If you turn the main power off to the VFD, wait a couple of minutes to turn it back on. If you were planning on this method to control motor power, don't. Use the terminal strip For / Rev connections to run the motor.

 

[nine4gmc]

I'm using the VFD on a band saw so I don't need reverse, it would be plugged in all the time but used occasionally. I want a switch to turn on the VFD, from there I can set speed and run/stop. It would not be cycled. I have a Legrand 15/20-Amp Double Pole White Indoor Toggle Light Switch That I planned to put on the power line input between the wall plug and VFD.

 

[laser3kw]

all this time I thought you were putting it on a Bridgeport mill!
Doh!
SO - sorry for "to much information"
Ok so, from here, Yes the the Legrand switch wired to the 240 (L1, L2) will kill power when you are not using it. From there you could run the motor from the key pad or wire a remote "run" switch by using the "FOR" and "DCM".
That would be a little handier when the switch is in a convenient spot. You also use the 10k pot to adjust speed with VR, VI and ACM.

 

[nine4gmc]

yeah sorry, my ADHD kicked in and I went full spray bomb resto on the bandsaw while I work out what to do with the motor on the mill. Thank you for all the help and suggestions, I may add the run and speed pot closer to the operator.


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[nine4gmc]

Okay, I figured out half my vfd issues. It's funny, I always say "you gotta be smarter than what you're working on" and though I'm not smarter than the vfd, I am learning to use it now. All the programming had me procrastinating on going through it, I finally decided to give that a try and it only took about two minutes, now the thing works perfect every time.

 

[millsrv]

My VFD installed on my Rockwell Drill Press. It is not completely enclosed but it is protected on top and in front. Works great and I added a Hall Effect Tachometer $15 on Amazon.

 

[nine4gmc]

Nice job Millsrv!

 

[Bill Vise]

This VFD installation on a Clausing 20" was pretty simple and worked out very well. The VFD and 4" power switch box are both mounted on a piece of angle iron. The VFD is within easy reach so no remote switch or speed control was needed. With a 1200 rpm motor and VFD overspeed, I was able to get a very nice speed range with good torque.

View media item 69229

 

[laser3kw]

^^^
I hope the switch is breaking the incoming 240v to the VFD and not the VFD output to the motor.
(see other replies posted previous)

 

[nine4gmc]

I finished the trim plate for the VFD in the band saw, it's two pieces of 3mm pvc board cut, shaped, glued and sanded then painted to match the vfd.









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[Duker]

Nice clean install there Nines! Looks good.


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[laser3kw]

that does finish it nicely.

 

[nine4gmc]

Thanks guys! Just ordered two more VFDs for my mill and other band saw, I'll be posting them when I get started on them. Thanks for taking time to answer all my newb questions and putting up with all my nonsense.

 

[nine4gmc]

On to the next one... I have another 20" Band Saw but this one came with a 3ph motor so all I need to do is figure out how to wire the VFD in to it. There's this box on the side full of who knows what, then there's the oem On/Off switch I want to use but it's momentary contact.


The input wire has been disconnected before I got it. The wires coming through the hole on the left looking at it go to the motor inside and the ones on the right go to the momentary switch.


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[laser3kw]

Easiest? Strip it and wire it like your other one.

 

[nine4gmc]

After posting, I searched out the box and found that it is a magnetic starter. Will I be okay without the starter on this motor?

 

[slodat]

You can use the starter to switch the line side power to the VFD. This would allow you to keep the push button. Use one of the contacts to seal in the ON push button. Put the normally closed OFF push button in series with it. Directly connect the VFD output to the motor. Remove the overloads from the contactor because the VFD takes care of motor protection.

 

[454ragtop]

After posting, I searched out the box and found that it is a magnetic starter. Will I be okay without the starter on this motor?

Ditch the starter, and you can more than likely use the momentary switches to control the VFD thru the low voltage control circuit. You'll need to study the instructions to your VFD to know for sure.

 

[slodat]

In this situation, I use the starter contractor, without overloads, to switch the line power to the VFD..


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[nine4gmc]

This is going to take some more studying, thanks!

 

[laser3kw]

Will I be okay without the starter on this motor?

yes
I would remove all the existing wiring and start fresh. Run the wires from the motor to your new vfd and install the dpdt switch on the input side of the vfd. Exactly like your other install. And if need to, install a on / off switch and a speed control pot on a handy switch panel.

 

[mattygee]

Okay, I figured out half my vfd issues. It's funny, I always say "you gotta be smarter than what you're working on" and though I'm not smarter than the vfd, I am learning to use it now. All the programming had me procrastinating on going through it, I finally decided to give that a try and it only took about two minutes, now the thing works perfect every time.

I set up a lathe with the same VFD you have... I agree programming was a total PITA. Worst Chinglish ever, and not even using consistent terms for freqs, volts etc. But yeah, between Youtube and translating as you go, its possible.

 

[Goldhawg]

I'm interested in doing this to my Delta Rockwell DP 15-665. I currently have a 1/2hp motor. What would be a good motor to replace it with? I'd like a baldor 1.5hp if that's a good choice. Is there any particular 3ph motor to look for? Does it matter the RPM since you're going VFD?

 

[454ragtop]

I'm interested in doing this to my Delta Rockwell DP 15-665. I currently have a 1/2hp motor. What would be a good motor to replace it with? I'd like a baldor 1.5hp if that's a good choice. Is there any particular 3ph motor to look for? Does it matter the RPM since you're going VFD?

I think a 1.5 HP motor is a tad overkill for a 15" drill press, I use either 3/4 or 1 HP for my larger Delta Rockwell 17's with no issues. Check your motor shaft size, a lot of this older Delta stuff uses 3/4" shaft motors, which are somewhat of an oddball these days, though they are around. I mostly use Delta Rockwell motors on these, less headaches. Also, if you go 1 HP or less, you can use a 115 volt input VFD, usually more convenient than a 230 volt input, and smaller drives are usually less expensive as well. I'm including a couple pics of an install I'm right in the middle of right now. As to RPM, best is a 1750 RPM motor, or an 1140 Rpm if you stumble across one. I'd avoid a 3450 RPM motor, less torque, and I'd be leary of over speeding one with a VFD very much.

 

[laser3kw]

454ragtop
is that toggle switch in the middle forward / reverse or just forward?
nice panel and good location