Zeke
Well-known member
Buy thick walled 2" and the 1 1/2" fits nicely.
Show us your welding projects
- Thread starter neonnblack
- Start date
Buy thick walled 2" and the 1 1/2" fits nicely.
Hot Chop shop
Well-known member
That turned out real nice!
joe49
Well-known member
It will fit, but you usually have to grind or wash the weld out of the inside of the receiver. If you make the receiver you do have 2 welds to do, but you can make a very close fit up. Which will leave little play when connected.
Hot Chop shop
Well-known member
So the latest up date on my welding table...
So let's just say welding and learning to manipulate metal is my new favorite hobby.... That being said I am very bad at it... Long story long I went and bought 20feet of what I thought was the right size receiver tube 1-3/4 x .120... I figured for the price of buying two already made ones at harbor freight I could make my own beefy version... Well the tube didn't fit so I grinded down a lot of the tube and then also grinded down a channel along the outer tube for the inner weld seem....(not sure what tool I would need to get the inner weld seem? Maybe really long file?) Then I was so exited to finish, I welded the plate on the the wrong side of the tubing... I know I'm suppose to tact weld first then check fitment but I get excited about laying down those beads... Anyways so this is how it turned out...
But hey it works great if I wanna bolt the grinder on it sideways ?
But the other lesson to learn is plan ahead... Because each opening hole I have on all 4 corners all having the inner weld channels going a different direction... So the attachment fits great in the back side of the table but that doesn't help if I have the table against the wall.
(Anyways I added the tension nut which keeps any size tube very tight so I did that right (after melting multiple nuts in the process )
And also added a place to store the extension cord...
As you can tell I painted it too soon
Thanks for looking and the help along the way gentlemen.
So let's just say welding and learning to manipulate metal is my new favorite hobby.... That being said I am very bad at it... Long story long I went and bought 20feet of what I thought was the right size receiver tube 1-3/4 x .120... I figured for the price of buying two already made ones at harbor freight I could make my own beefy version... Well the tube didn't fit so I grinded down a lot of the tube and then also grinded down a channel along the outer tube for the inner weld seem....(not sure what tool I would need to get the inner weld seem? Maybe really long file?) Then I was so exited to finish, I welded the plate on the the wrong side of the tubing... I know I'm suppose to tact weld first then check fitment but I get excited about laying down those beads... Anyways so this is how it turned out...
But hey it works great if I wanna bolt the grinder on it sideways ?
But the other lesson to learn is plan ahead... Because each opening hole I have on all 4 corners all having the inner weld channels going a different direction... So the attachment fits great in the back side of the table but that doesn't help if I have the table against the wall.
(Anyways I added the tension nut which keeps any size tube very tight so I did that right (after melting multiple nuts in the process )
And also added a place to store the extension cord...
As you can tell I painted it too soon
Thanks for looking and the help along the way gentlemen.
nonhog
Well-known member
MP&C has a post on that. Search his threads.
Vegaman_Dan
Well-known member
@HotChopShop
You can find 2" receiver tube at the metal suppliers / yards if you mention that's what you're looking for. It's meant for telescoping applications and doesn't have that weld seam inside that you're fighting.
I picked up a 36" piece of it that I've been chopping off in 6" sections for projects. I like being able to fab up a mounting plate for this or that tool that can then slip into the welding table for use.
You can find 2" receiver tube at the metal suppliers / yards if you mention that's what you're looking for. It's meant for telescoping applications and doesn't have that weld seam inside that you're fighting.
I picked up a 36" piece of it that I've been chopping off in 6" sections for projects. I like being able to fab up a mounting plate for this or that tool that can then slip into the welding table for use.
Hot Chop shop
Well-known member
Yeah I stalk his thread following the amazing metal panels repair he does on cars... I saw that great tool he made to extended a disc. Very impressive.
Hot Chop shop
Well-known member
What's funny is I asked my local metal place what they had and they sold me 20feet of the 1-3/8 inch I thought forsure it would fit... It's all part of the learning process for me... Now I have extra tubing for another project.
But that seems real smart to have extra at the right size to keep making new attachments.
Once I get the right kind of tube everything is going to have telescoping adjustments... Might add an inserting shelf for the cold cut saw, I plan on turning my table into a Swiss Army knife.
tornadocaster
Well-known member
Shelf for my jack stands with some discarded chain (I think it was discarded)
Then I put the jack stands in and realized the plan in my head didnt really work out.
Then I put the jack stands in and realized the plan in my head didnt really work out.
brian lee
Well-known member
that shelf is badass
sent thru smoke signals directly out the top of my teepee!!!
sent thru smoke signals directly out the top of my teepee!!!
alpinewhite
Well-known member
Motorcycle chain? I suppose the could be bicycle chains if those were miniature jack stands.Shelf for my jack stands with some discarded chain (I think it was discarded)
PCO6
Well-known member
Great idea!
pepi
Well-known member
When our station was remodeled back in '88-89, they tore out the old wood floor and poured concrete. They formed up drains in the floor but they are wider than the grates that were made for them. Occasionally, the grates fall in. In an attempt to fix the issue (cheap) I welded some 1/2" bolts to the edge to try to keep them from falling in.
I also fabbed up a few more heavy hangers for drying turn out gear. When turn out gear is wet, it's gets too heavy for a regular hanger. I came up with this idea several years ago.
Some ugly *** green paint to help ensure that they don't sprout legs.
Also, back in post #1707 I showed some ladder brackets that I had made. Here they are in use.
Some ugly *** green paint to help ensure that they don't sprout legs.
Also, back in post #1707 I showed some ladder brackets that I had made. Here they are in use.
muddinguy
Well-known member
Atv carrier for my pickup
https://scontent-a-lga.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1383412_10100485352866161_304803015_n.jpg
https://scontent-a-lga.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1383412_10100485352866161_304803015_n.jpg
aka Larry
Well-known member
I fabricated a transmission crossmember for my friends 5.0 V8 powered Miata project. It bolts between the frame rails and had provisions for the future dual exhaust as well. I finished it off with Krylon Wrinkle piant. A few pics:
[/quote]
I've been working on custom patio railings for our front and back patios. The top and bottom rails are 1x3 tubing. The balusters are 1.5" square tubing, and the posts are 3x3 tubing. I found some decorative caps online and am going to have everything powder coated white. I plan on using stainless steel anchor bolts that I will epoxy into the concrete.
Attachments
raddksn
Well-known member
tornadocaster
Well-known member
Damn I love that simple design for a shelf!
Thank you
Gio
Thank you
Gio
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I waited until I turned 65 to buy a welder. My wife asked what I wanted for my birthday and I said a welder. She said fine, as long as it was less than $100. It wasn't much, an $89 Harbor Freight wire welder. First attempt was header adapter pipes for my big block Corvette.
Sent them off to Jet-Hot for coating to match the coated ****** headers. I would have liked to do them in stainless but I heard that flux-coated stainless wasn't a reasonable option.
Sent them off to Jet-Hot for coating to match the coated ****** headers. I would have liked to do them in stainless but I heard that flux-coated stainless wasn't a reasonable option.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I think the stance of a car is important. I decided not to just cut the coils on the front of the Corvette and hope for the right stance. Solution was to install a semi-coilover setup.
It has one minor flaw: the bottom of the coil spring is no longer riding in the large pocket in the lower control arm. The entire weight of the front end is supported by the two shock mounting bolts. The bolts are larger so the shock mounting holes have to be enlarged, making the mounting area rather weak.
I decided to reinforce the mount with a piece of square tubing.
A little welding and a little paint and the problem is hopefully solved.
It has one minor flaw: the bottom of the coil spring is no longer riding in the large pocket in the lower control arm. The entire weight of the front end is supported by the two shock mounting bolts. The bolts are larger so the shock mounting holes have to be enlarged, making the mounting area rather weak.
I decided to reinforce the mount with a piece of square tubing.
A little welding and a little paint and the problem is hopefully solved.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
After three years of playing with the flux wire welder, I decided I needed a MIG welder with shielding gas. A local shop convinced me I needed to invest in a better welder when I bought a 3" stainless turbo downpipe for the PT Cruiser. It didn’t have a catalytic converter included so I bought a high-flow cat and did some cutting and fitting and then took the pieces to a local welder.
He estimated it would cost me north of $200 just to weld the pieces back together. That was if they did the job in the shop. I needed to be able to fit the partially assembled unit on the car to determine the angle joining the two sections and then tack weld the two big sections together.
I decided I needed to be able to weld stainless steel on future projects so I bought an Eastwood 175 for $500, which gave me aluminum welding capability as well. After spending another couple of hundred on tanks and materials, I was able to get the two sections welded together. I was even able to extend the 3” pipe and replace the double neck-down end of the pipe. The original pipe was advertised to be a 2-1/2” outlet but it turned out to be 2-1/4” (matching the original exhaust and the necked-down Borla system). I bought the larger adapter and welded it on as well.
[FONT="]
[/FONT]The stock exhaust setup has two O2 sensors, one before and one after the cat. The third O2 bung is for the wideband sensor connected to the Air/Fuel Ratio gauge. When it goes in the car, I'll be able to cut the necked-down section of the Borla exhaust pipe and have a freer flowing exhaust (and gauges so I can play with the boost without blowing the engine up).
[FONT="]
[/FONT]
He estimated it would cost me north of $200 just to weld the pieces back together. That was if they did the job in the shop. I needed to be able to fit the partially assembled unit on the car to determine the angle joining the two sections and then tack weld the two big sections together.
I decided I needed to be able to weld stainless steel on future projects so I bought an Eastwood 175 for $500, which gave me aluminum welding capability as well. After spending another couple of hundred on tanks and materials, I was able to get the two sections welded together. I was even able to extend the 3” pipe and replace the double neck-down end of the pipe. The original pipe was advertised to be a 2-1/2” outlet but it turned out to be 2-1/4” (matching the original exhaust and the necked-down Borla system). I bought the larger adapter and welded it on as well.
[FONT="]
[/FONT]The stock exhaust setup has two O2 sensors, one before and one after the cat. The third O2 bung is for the wideband sensor connected to the Air/Fuel Ratio gauge. When it goes in the car, I'll be able to cut the necked-down section of the Borla exhaust pipe and have a freer flowing exhaust (and gauges so I can play with the boost without blowing the engine up).
[FONT="]
[/FONT]
We ordered some new squeegees and brooms at the fire house but it tended to make the closet full. They are stuffed in there along with snow shovels and barricades. My Lt suggested I make some brackets to get them hung up.
I used the same design that I used at home and are hanging in the garage shed.
A coat of black POR15 and they are going to get put to use. They will get tap conned to the wall.
I used the same design that I used at home and are hanging in the garage shed.
A coat of black POR15 and they are going to get put to use. They will get tap conned to the wall.
I welded up another floor grate yesterday too. This one is a little different since it goes in the middle of the floor and crosses two different floor pours. I added some extensions to both sides.
While the welder was out, I picked up some spacers and a couple of cheap wrenches. These are going to be new handles on my wall locker and bunk at the fire hose.
While the welder was out, I picked up some spacers and a couple of cheap wrenches. These are going to be new handles on my wall locker and bunk at the fire hose.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I liked this idea so much I copied it.Here's a few of my projects. I've always enjoyed building practical stuff that would make life easier in the shop. And just about everything is better with casters!
Torch bottle rack and grease gun rack:
I use quite a few solvents in the garage and dealing with gallon cans is a pain. So I bought some 8-oz. squeeze bottles from US Plastics for around 75-cents each that are made from high density polyethylene, which is a solvent-resistant plastic. Made a rack for the bottles from some 2.25” exhaust pipe and a couple of pieces of flat stock. A can of red primer/paint covers up most of the ugly.
I am trying to learn to TIG weld one-handed so I put the rack together without filler rod – just torch heat.
I mounted it on my bodywork and painting cart but it could also go on the wall.
I mounted it on my bodywork and painting cart but it could also go on the wall.
I like this idea.
raskal
Well-known member
exhaust pipe is galvanized isn't it? I don't see any grinding marks, hope you're ok
W_A_Watson_II
Well-known member
A lot of it these days is Aluminized Steel, not Galvanized.
nonhog
Well-known member
I like this idea.
X2 I'm going to copy your (Bob Heine) copy!
Earlier exhaust stuff looked real good too!
Last edited:
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Years ago I cut up two sets of stock rear bumpers for my 72 Corvette and had someone else weld them up (it was suggested that one-armed cross-eyed people couldn’t or shouldn’t be using a welder). I copied this design from 61-2 Corvettes.
Once welded, I prepped them for chrome by hand filing the welds, and then hand sanding them smooth.
When I discovered welding could be done one-handed I had one of my brain farts. I was working on the exhaust and like more modern Corvettes I was installing mufflers with quad exhaust outlets. Mine are on the outside corners and the new ones are in the center under the license plate. After a little Photoshop work, I decided I liked the center outlet look. It would require moving the license plate housing 2.5” higher but that’s just fiberglass work and this is all about welding.
I wanted to retain the stainless steel exhaust bezels I bought for the stock setup so I cut and welded the two together. I ended up with one bezel that is the same width as the chrome license plate surround.
Using stainless wire and 98% Argon/2% CO2 shielding gas in my Eastwood MIG 175, I managed to weld the two pieces together. I was pretty excited with the welding, right up to the last half-inch, when I cleared the copper backing plate and blew a hole in the bezel. Instead of quitting, letting it cool and rearranging the copper backing plate, I just kept heating the area with more wire. I’m not thrilled with the result but it was my first attempt at stainless welding and only the front edge of the bezel will be visible,
At first I thought I could just aim and mount the two mufflers and be done. Unfortunately the tips won’t line up so I went for plan B.
Magnaflow makes dual inlet/dual outlet stainless mufflers in various sizes so I decided to transfer the tips from the original pair to the single muffler. Problem is the four tips won't line up with the muffler outlets so some scrap pieces of stainless exhaust (leftover from the header to exhaust pipe project). This is the balancing act that resulted from some quality time with a Portaband saw.
Some tacking, more cutting, more tacking and a really crude clamp brought me to this.
A little more grinding and fitting and I have a custom muffler with quad tips tacked on.
Since I took this picture I’ve managed to fill the gaps at the muffler and then a trial fit. I’ve acquired an Eastwood 200 TIG (DC only) and plan to fill the voids and improve the looks of this project. To lessen the visual impact of moving the license frame higher, I added a sectioned Camaro spoiler but I plan to take a little off the top of it. This is the real (not Photoshopped) end result.
My welding requires way too much grinding to cover my mistakes but I figure it won't get better unless I keep welding.
Once welded, I prepped them for chrome by hand filing the welds, and then hand sanding them smooth.
When I discovered welding could be done one-handed I had one of my brain farts. I was working on the exhaust and like more modern Corvettes I was installing mufflers with quad exhaust outlets. Mine are on the outside corners and the new ones are in the center under the license plate. After a little Photoshop work, I decided I liked the center outlet look. It would require moving the license plate housing 2.5” higher but that’s just fiberglass work and this is all about welding.
I wanted to retain the stainless steel exhaust bezels I bought for the stock setup so I cut and welded the two together. I ended up with one bezel that is the same width as the chrome license plate surround.
Using stainless wire and 98% Argon/2% CO2 shielding gas in my Eastwood MIG 175, I managed to weld the two pieces together. I was pretty excited with the welding, right up to the last half-inch, when I cleared the copper backing plate and blew a hole in the bezel. Instead of quitting, letting it cool and rearranging the copper backing plate, I just kept heating the area with more wire. I’m not thrilled with the result but it was my first attempt at stainless welding and only the front edge of the bezel will be visible,
At first I thought I could just aim and mount the two mufflers and be done. Unfortunately the tips won’t line up so I went for plan B.
Magnaflow makes dual inlet/dual outlet stainless mufflers in various sizes so I decided to transfer the tips from the original pair to the single muffler. Problem is the four tips won't line up with the muffler outlets so some scrap pieces of stainless exhaust (leftover from the header to exhaust pipe project). This is the balancing act that resulted from some quality time with a Portaband saw.
Some tacking, more cutting, more tacking and a really crude clamp brought me to this.
A little more grinding and fitting and I have a custom muffler with quad tips tacked on.
Since I took this picture I’ve managed to fill the gaps at the muffler and then a trial fit. I’ve acquired an Eastwood 200 TIG (DC only) and plan to fill the voids and improve the looks of this project. To lessen the visual impact of moving the license frame higher, I added a sectioned Camaro spoiler but I plan to take a little off the top of it. This is the real (not Photoshopped) end result.
My welding requires way too much grinding to cover my mistakes but I figure it won't get better unless I keep welding.
pmason0
Well-known member
Just finished my latest project, tire rack to move a couple of sets of tires into and out of the trailer.
xXSanderXx
Active member
@Bob, you can fill the gabs for sure!
aka Larry
Well-known member
I was back to work on my friends V8-powered Miata this past weekend. My task was to fabricate mounts for the new aluminum radiator. The concept was to build two "cups" to support it at the bottom corners. To start, I measured and made a cardboard template to form a flat layout. I then transferred the flat layout onto the 16ga sheet metal:
Next I used the grinder to cut-out the sheet metal:
I scored the bend lines with the grinder and then bent the sides progressively to form the shape:
Once I had the sides in place, I welded all the seams:
Here is one side as it fits the bottom of the radiator:
The opposite side had to be coped for the outlet hose:
Next I glued the rubber padding into place:
To design the support brackets that will hold the cups, we taped the cups to the radiator and temporarily raised it into position:
To attach the cups to the frame rails I bent some 1/8" thk x 3" wide flat bar using a similar technique the welded it all together. Some primer and Dupli-color bedliner and they are done:
https://scontent-b-iad.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1441590_10201110769596699_254159280_n.jpg
Next I used the grinder to cut-out the sheet metal:
I scored the bend lines with the grinder and then bent the sides progressively to form the shape:
Once I had the sides in place, I welded all the seams:
Here is one side as it fits the bottom of the radiator:
The opposite side had to be coped for the outlet hose:
Next I glued the rubber padding into place:
To design the support brackets that will hold the cups, we taped the cups to the radiator and temporarily raised it into position:
To attach the cups to the frame rails I bent some 1/8" thk x 3" wide flat bar using a similar technique the welded it all together. Some primer and Dupli-color bedliner and they are done:
https://scontent-b-iad.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1441590_10201110769596699_254159280_n.jpg
Hot Chop shop
Well-known member
Finished a stool/box-jumps/step thingy?
I wanted to do some kind of "X" on the sides but ran out of time so I kept it basic...
Used some filler primer to try to hide the imperfections...
Going to paint it red and black to match the theme in the garage.
And also rewelded two of tension bolts on the welding table... I'm new to the welding world so getting the nuts on there without melting them while welding vertical wasn't too easy.
Yeah I know it's not too pretty but I'm learning.
I wanted to do some kind of "X" on the sides but ran out of time so I kept it basic...
Used some filler primer to try to hide the imperfections...
Going to paint it red and black to match the theme in the garage.
And also rewelded two of tension bolts on the welding table... I'm new to the welding world so getting the nuts on there without melting them while welding vertical wasn't too easy.
Yeah I know it's not too pretty but I'm learning.
IONH
Well-known member
Wow, I haven't added anything to this thread in a while so I'm glad to finally get to do it again.
Took the wheels from the smaller HF wooden dolly and made a rolling frame for a car seat that's been kicking around my garage for a while with this intention in mind.
Took the wheels from the smaller HF wooden dolly and made a rolling frame for a car seat that's been kicking around my garage for a while with this intention in mind.
W_A_Watson_II
Well-known member
Hot Chop shop
Well-known member
Wow, I haven't added anything to this thread in a while so I'm glad to finally get to do it again.
Took the wheels from the smaller HF wooden dolly and made a rolling frame for a car seat that's been kicking around my garage for a while with this intention in mind.
I would scoot around the garage making Vroom sounds on that bad boy... Looks great.