BD1
Well-known member
Jack does not allow rainfall in is area. Only sun. 
Show us your welding projects
- Thread starter neonnblack
- Start date
The doors are pretty well weather-proofed. But there is an overhang above them, and even though the fabric allows rain to pass through, it acts like a stop-and-go filter -- rain that's coming down at an angle drops straight down after it passes through the fabric.
I've been keeping an eye on it this winter (that's pretty much the only season where we get any rain) to see if I need to put any kind of awning above it. So far, the answer is no.
I've been keeping an eye on it this winter (that's pretty much the only season where we get any rain) to see if I need to put any kind of awning above it. So far, the answer is no.
jmlcolorado
Well-known member
I believe a photo host closes accounts if it has not been logged into after a specified amount of time, which then kills all the links to photos.
90% of my surfing/posting is done on my ipad, and photos are taken using my phone, so I upload all my photos (that I will be posting) to photo bucket and link the image location to my account.
I post enough that my account is always open.
Sorry for the off topic post
brawls43
Well-known member
That looks awesome. I need to get practicing with aluminum and my Eastwood tig200 also. This could be the inspiration I needed. What rough setting were you running on the machine?
Daddyoneleg
Active member
This is a wood splitter I built for my Dad. He wanted to split 38'' stumps all in one pass.All he had was an ac/dc welder- max 1/8'' 7018.Lots of multi-pass.It has had some mods since.The 7'' hyd. cyl. has the snoot to make heavy iron flex...
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that is nice. We need video!
Agreed! Gotta see that in action!
Daddyoneleg
Active member
Video won't be happening for a while.It was a real learning curve re: the splitter knives.The knive was supposed to go up and down on a 3rd cyl. but the old man got impatient. I would do things different next time including feeding my good Dad the little pills that dissolve under the tongue. The cyl is not super fast but the pieces fill the table and it keeps 2 people busy clearing it.It needs an outfeed conveyor.
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![WELCOMEHOME[1].png](/forum/data/attachments/245/245168-7372ae272abb6dbbe992a2666687f034.jpg)
i used the recommended pre and post flow settings, along with the pedal. i upgraded my torch to the Flexible version, along with large gas lenses. seemed to help my welds greatly
What a great thread this has been so far! Took me a while to get through these 93 pages and I enjoyed every minute of it! I will be checking back frequently to see the latest you guys are working on. This and the HF “confessions” thread are among my favorites here at GJ!
A little about why I’m here: My first welding experience took place some 50 years ago in a little small town FFA farm shop class. I ran one bead with some 1/8” 6011 on two pieces of ½” that had been beveled on the edges. Then, nada until last year when I finally felt the need to make a few things easier in the shop and at work. I bought a little 100amp ac only buzz box on Amazon for $70, some 1/16 and 3/32 6013 & 6011 and started in. I’m posting the results here. Arthritis sometimes really gets bad and those little bitty thumb screws in size 10 and smaller really mess me up sometimes so that was one of the first things I attempted.
A little about why I’m here: My first welding experience took place some 50 years ago in a little small town FFA farm shop class. I ran one bead with some 1/8” 6011 on two pieces of ½” that had been beveled on the edges. Then, nada until last year when I finally felt the need to make a few things easier in the shop and at work. I bought a little 100amp ac only buzz box on Amazon for $70, some 1/16 and 3/32 6013 & 6011 and started in. I’m posting the results here. Arthritis sometimes really gets bad and those little bitty thumb screws in size 10 and smaller really mess me up sometimes so that was one of the first things I attempted.
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zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I see a future role in a Bond film. I don't think a log splitter has ever been used to try to kill 007.
I finally got the settings good enough to make some serviceable thumbscrews.
Moving along, I bought a cheap exercise bike at Wal Mart. The bars were in the absolutely wrong position and I quickly got bored just sitting there watching the digital readout of “miles-speed-calories” so I welded up a bracket for my Kindle out of .125 x 1.0 strap and a short piece of .125 x 1.0 angle.
An old painter I worked for as a kid told me once “A little paint will hide a WHOLE LOT of sin!
Moving along, I bought a cheap exercise bike at Wal Mart. The bars were in the absolutely wrong position and I quickly got bored just sitting there watching the digital readout of “miles-speed-calories” so I welded up a bracket for my Kindle out of .125 x 1.0 strap and a short piece of .125 x 1.0 angle.
An old painter I worked for as a kid told me once “A little paint will hide a WHOLE LOT of sin!
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Robert Hall
Well-known member
I neede new casters fot the work bench...
INYER face hole
Active member
Hot Chop shop
Well-known member
Hey guys I need a little help to finish the project to post it here:
How to weld miter edges the pretty way? (I would usually just do a lot of grinding to smooth the weld before paint but I am leaving this project bare steel for a distressed look)
So I recently learned about beveling the edge of two joints to leave an area for the weld to lay flat in there and it makes a much cleaner flat weld.(don't know how I didn't know about that so long)
My question(s) is I'm guessing you can do the same bevel edge when doing a miter edge? Any special technique to weld the miter edge ? I'm thinking I will bevel the two large sides and is there a secret to keep the pointy end from melting since it is so thin at this spot?
Here is a picture of how I would like it to look when done so that's why I am trying to step up my miter game...
Thanks for any advice suggestions!
How to weld miter edges the pretty way? (I would usually just do a lot of grinding to smooth the weld before paint but I am leaving this project bare steel for a distressed look)
So I recently learned about beveling the edge of two joints to leave an area for the weld to lay flat in there and it makes a much cleaner flat weld.(don't know how I didn't know about that so long)
My question(s) is I'm guessing you can do the same bevel edge when doing a miter edge? Any special technique to weld the miter edge ? I'm thinking I will bevel the two large sides and is there a secret to keep the pointy end from melting since it is so thin at this spot?
Here is a picture of how I would like it to look when done so that's why I am trying to step up my miter game...
Thanks for any advice suggestions!
koditten
Well-known member
I do a lot of those miter joints. 14g is the lightest I like to weld. Anything heavier is much easier.
I need speed, so the look of the weld is secondary, regardless, I haven't had to grind any of my welds in a while.
The easiest way to make that weld and not have burn thru is just do a series of heavy spot welds. this allows the steel to cool slightly and resist burn thru. After you get enough practice, it can almost look like a carried along mig weld.
Another trick is to apply the weld to only one side of the seam and let the bead wash over to the other side of the gap. This is a little ore difficult, but with practice it can be done.
Because I need to get the job done and over, I seldom change welder settings, I only change weld styles. Time is money and stopping to reset the welder is costly.
To ensure that the mitre remains a true 45*, you will need to weld on different sides of the tubes. Do 1/4" on the back, then do a 1/4" on the vee of the joint. This is the only way you will be able to keep the joint a true 45*. Your surface welds joint like you show in the pic will be the last sides of the joint that you weld.
I'm not real good at explaining myself,but I hope you can get the picture.
Later
KO
I need speed, so the look of the weld is secondary, regardless, I haven't had to grind any of my welds in a while.
The easiest way to make that weld and not have burn thru is just do a series of heavy spot welds. this allows the steel to cool slightly and resist burn thru. After you get enough practice, it can almost look like a carried along mig weld.
Another trick is to apply the weld to only one side of the seam and let the bead wash over to the other side of the gap. This is a little ore difficult, but with practice it can be done.
Because I need to get the job done and over, I seldom change welder settings, I only change weld styles. Time is money and stopping to reset the welder is costly.
To ensure that the mitre remains a true 45*, you will need to weld on different sides of the tubes. Do 1/4" on the back, then do a 1/4" on the vee of the joint. This is the only way you will be able to keep the joint a true 45*. Your surface welds joint like you show in the pic will be the last sides of the joint that you weld.
I'm not real good at explaining myself,but I hope you can get the picture.
Later
KO
koditten
Well-known member
Rereading your post, I don't like to have any bevel and the least amount of gap. When you bevel you are thinning the metal and making burn thru much more likely. there really is not a good way to make this joint flat with a weld.
Looking at the example pic you showed, I can tell that the weld is getting it's strength from the out side of the tube and the inside. the surface welds have been ground down flat and are doing nothing for the strength of the joint. In this case its not a big deal, there is plenty of strength from the inside and outside welds.
Looking at the example pic you showed, I can tell that the weld is getting it's strength from the out side of the tube and the inside. the surface welds have been ground down flat and are doing nothing for the strength of the joint. In this case its not a big deal, there is plenty of strength from the inside and outside welds.
Robert Hall
Well-known member
I have cut L shaped pieces to weld to the inside of the tube similar to how one assembles a metal picture frame. Then I can widen the gap and keep the weld flat.
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Robert Hall
Well-known member
Here's one more project I did for the garden. I have some climbing Wisteria that needs a backing lattice. The wood I used on the first set are toast so I made a set of 5 out of tubing here.
Welding cross members
Weld detail
Grinding off the rust. I'm not going to paint them.
Attempts to square the cross members
Now just flip each one and weld the other half on to the cross members
Welding cross members
Weld detail
Grinding off the rust. I'm not going to paint them.
Attempts to square the cross members
Now just flip each one and weld the other half on to the cross members
toomanytoyzz
Well-known member
Looks like the heat generated from the weld put the legs out of square going by the pics. I like to clamp a piece of 1 1/2"x1/4" flat bar or similar tube at a 45 on both ends to keep it square while I weld something like that up.
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steel 35
Well-known member
Robert Hall
Well-known member
If the square was important to be that square, that's a good tip. I also track on both sides to help out.
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BD1
Well-known member
I have some of these BESSEY angle welding clamps. They have paid for themselves in no time. Really makes the fabrication easier.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006694FA/?tag=atomicindus08-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006694FA/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Hot Chop shop
Well-known member
Hey thanks for all your input... I guess there is no snap your finger way to weld the the miter angle that isn't just doing it over and over with practice till you get it right.
Hot Chop shop
Well-known member
Hot Chop shop
Well-known member
Miter test run, I did a slight bevel to give the weld a place to lay down into...
Still pretty thick weld... Why can't I be like Zfab
I guess that's why there is grinders
Still pretty thick weld... Why can't I be like Zfab
I guess that's why there is grinders
1953mercury
Well-known member
What size wire are you using? .021/.023 wire and run a little hotter, and move along faster and you should be able end up pretty flat. Looks like it could be V,ed out a little wider also. Practice on some scrape until you get it down. Mike
Hot Chop shop
Well-known member
The wire is .30 and I'm using a miller 220 and it's set to 1/8 inch metal and I am using the *auto set function for the wire gas is at 25.... I will play around with beveling edge a little more, thanks for your feedback it's hard to improve without it.
and maybe it's time to be a big boy and try and adjust my own settings instead of using the auto setting?
Duker
Well-known member
Having a Lincoln myself I can't offer any help on Miller settings but I have found I have to adjust my machine a little from the recommended settings so it's definitely worth trying. Something I found helpful that was advised to me on another forum was to do like a cursive "e" which allows you to flow (for lack of a better word) the puddle. To get a better visual, it's the way Jodi from weldingtipsandtricks.com gets his mig like tig look. That and the bevel might get you a little closer to what your trying to achieve.
Robert Hall
Well-known member
The direction you lean the torch has an effect on the heir of the bead. Were you pushing or pulling?
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steel 35
Well-known member
HCS
That bead may not be the look your after but I think it looks very good and strong; If you want the (look) slow down the wire and make the cursive e loop as you go?
That bead may not be the look your after but I think it looks very good and strong; If you want the (look) slow down the wire and make the cursive e loop as you go?
BD1
Well-known member
Hot Chop shop
Well-known member
Oh I'm with you on the Mig to look like tig approach and I followed that thread on the other forum where they discuss it as well. I have practiced the cursive E lots and also made sure that I do a practice run to make sure that I have good hand position all the way from start to finish of the weld. I am now trying to preheat the metal before to see if that will give me my stack of dimes look... practice practice practice.
The direction you lean the torch has an effect on the heir of the bead. Were you pushing or pulling?
I was pulling for most of them.
Hey thanks a lot I appreciate that, I am trying to do as much prep work to the metal beforehand to achieve a clean weld to some day not have to grind as much.
Thanks! I actually have that picture from that page of the wand angle on my cell phone that I glance before to remind be of the right position.
Thanks for all the feedback guys
I'll stop junking up my favorite thread with too many questions and try to stick to posting pictures of actual "welding projects"
BearCuda
Well-known member
Hot Chop shop
Well-known member
sberry
Banned
The first pic is the face side and the second the back welded from one side and I left a little booger so you could see the gap. 3rd and 4th are a fatigue repair on an old plow but the plates got torch cut on an angle but it isn't needed for this kind of joint every time, can be done either way. But it can come out flush if the weld is installed in the gaps. I rarely miter on a saw, I chop and nip angles with a plasma, I don't care and don't want them all tight if this is a joint that needs strength.
