Show us your welding projects

[SuperStructure]

Didn't find a topic like this where everyone could share pictures of their good (or bad) welding/fab projects and maybe get pointers from other people. I'm hoping this doesnt turn into a **** fest if someone disagrees with someone elses procedures. So please, keep negative comments to yourself but share constructive criticism.

Nothing specific, ill start, even with me being embarrassed a bit about it. On with the pictures

Im a very begginer welder/fab person. I took metals in high school then dropped my motivation to continue it as a hobby, and maybe one day a career. I just started back up a few weeks ago and this was one of my first "projects".

Just a little square i made one day for practice:

This one had a large hole in the corner of it, and was one of the worse welds i did on the whole thing.

I never cleaned the welds either... oops.

I know not the greatest, but i dont plan on anything structural till i get a better welding unit so i figure its ok for now.

Now the welder i used, and you guys will hate me for this but...... It's a harbor freight http://www.harborfreight.com/welding/mig-flux-welders/90-amp-flux-wire-welder-98871.html

I have had it for about 4 or 5 years now. Using fluxcore wire... and its on about a 75 foot extension cord... I know i know it could change but it seems to be ok for now.

I use my HF 41/2 angle grinder to cut up the metal. Btw any suggestions on cutting and grinding disks?

Thanks for looking, post up your welding projects and gear.

No hate coming here...
Always start small and simple, and see where it leads you.
Good thread start, well done.
Try TIG if you get serious about fab. The gas lugging can be a pain, but it's super clean & results can be supreme.
Cheers

 

[Jagmandave]

@Jagmandave, is this going to have its own show? Maybe Binky 0.5?

No question Binky has been an inspiration in many ways, especially in the building of brackets!

I'm surprised and pleased at how many people reacted to my little post on my Mini. If anyone wants to read more one day when bored out of your gourd, you can go here.... https://www.restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?topic=2758.0 for the whole story to date.....

We're headed into a really bad cold spell so after today I won't be doing anything or updating till it warms up a bit.

 

[Jagmandave]

Screw the uturns, I wanna see a wheelie

You know, it's interesting......there's a company in California (Gildred Racing) that builds classic Minis with a Honda V6 in the back, turbo charged making about 500hp at the wheels. they drag raced it a bunch of times and it's really short geared (Honda's that the engine came out of have17" wheels, they're running 13's) so it fairly leaps off the line, but it doesn't pull the front wheels off the ground, it just goes. Of course the top end is really limited given the gearing.

I found a way around that. The Getrag gearboxes used by Ford for the ST (and the modern Cooper S) are very strange - they use two mainshafts, both have a pinion gear to drive the crownwheel! To change the gearing you'd need to change both mainshafts and the crownwheel. However, in Europe they sell a Focus ST diesel, which has much taller gearing - my plan is simply to swap in one of these gearboxes. They're available on Ebay and reasonably priced.

 

[larry4406]

No question Binky has been an inspiration in many ways, especially in the building of brackets!

I'm surprised and pleased at how many people reacted to my little post on my Mini. If anyone wants to read more one day when bored out of your gourd, you can go here.... https://www.restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?topic=2758.0 for the whole story to date.....

We're headed into a really bad cold spell so after today I won't be doing anything or updating till it warms up a bit.

I scrolled thru your linked build! Wow!

I like the @Steevo style workbenches!

 

[Jagmandave]

It's an incredibly stupid idea, right?

 

[kaymccampbell]

It's an incredibly stupid idea, right?

You do you. We'll watch.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Here's the main purpose of the Ice Spud:



What genius decided that a garage door under the eaves of that warehouse would be a good idea in snow country?


Maybe someday I'll talk the boss into letting me weld up a big gable to go over that door. Hopefully, before one of our employees (likely me) gets his/her back broken by falling snow and ice.

Pitch a shed roof to the left of picture. Any snow off the main roof falls on to that roof then off to the side out of the way.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I deal with a lot of snow. It’s 1.6 miles from my house to the nearest state maintained road and we get a lot of snow where I live. I used to push a Meyer plow on the front of a Jeep CJ7, however, the Jeep doesn’t have enough weight to push more than a few inches of snow. That was fine at my old home in Virginia, not so much living above snow line in the mountains of Colorado. Thus, I decided to fabricate a mount to recycle my snow plow on my Bobcat.









With the Bobcat’s 2200 lbs of breakout force and an articulating plow driven off ISO controls, its a very productive combo for moving snow.

Jealous.....

Working on the blade for my JD 2032R.

 

[Beerhippie]

Pitch a shed roof to the left of picture. Any snow off the main roof falls on to that roof then off to the side out of the way.

I'm thinking a fairly steep (9/12) gable over the walk would do fine. If I weld the whole thing, including some maybe 12 ga/ 1/16" plate for roofing, it should be able to handle the impact of the falling ice without needing to be way up to the eaves.

Both sides of the paved area are "out of the way".

It should also make a noise to wake the dead when hit.

 

[brothernov]

Here's the Ice Spud compared to the floor scraper we've been trying to do the same job with:



We'd break one of those at least once a year.

I'll bet the Ice Spud works better as a floor scraper, too!

I'm pretty new to metalworking, and outside of a welder and a couple grinders I haven't accumulated a lot of tools yet. What peaks my curiosity is how you managed to get such a perfect bevel on the front/business end of the Spud? What was your method?

 

[Beerhippie]

I'm pretty new to metalworking, and outside of a welder and a couple grinders I haven't accumulated a lot of tools yet. What peaks my curiosity is how you managed to get such a perfect bevel on the front/business end of the Spud? What was your method?

I've been sharpening tools with a 4 1/2" angle grinder for many years. I use a 36 grit fiber disk with rigid backer to rough out, then a 250 grit flapwheel to finish. Keep the pressure light and the passes fast to prevent "burning" the edge.

You can keep the wheel/disk flat to the work for a flat bevel like above, or tilt it to get varying degrees of hollow-grind. I prefer hollow-grind for things like lawnmower blades, but this scraper is meant to be hell-fer-stout, so a flat-grind.

The trick to keeping the angle constant is to brace the two hands holding the grinder to your body and then move in a smooth arc. It takes some practice, but you'll get it.

Maybe I should make a video....

 

[NUTTSGT]

Moving along with the blade project.



Criticism of my welds ?

 

[kaymccampbell]

Moving along with the blade project.



Criticism of my welds ?

Did they stick things together? Then they're fine.

 

[Beerhippie]

Moving along with the blade project.



Criticism of my welds ?

Other than obviously copying my technique, they look fine from my shop.

Gave 'em a goodly bevel, I hope?

 

[Bodj Built]

Moving along with the blade project.



Criticism of my welds ?

I'd trust them, but they can use refining. Move slower and watch the puddle till it fills out exactly where you want it to go. Don't manipulate the mig gun as fast as you are probably going. Slower, smaller movements.

Here are some of my latest welding projects for those who don't check out my thread

Shock towers for my toyota pickup rock crawler




In place with cross brace welded in






All done using a cheapo Lincoln 180HD from Home Depot.

 

[brothernov]

I've been sharpening tools with a 4 1/2" angle grinder for many years. I use a 36 grit fiber disk with rigid backer to rough out, then a 250 grit flapwheel to finish. Keep the pressure light and the passes fast to prevent "burning" the edge.

You can keep the wheel/disk flat to the work for a flat bevel like above, or tilt it to get varying degrees of hollow-grind. I prefer hollow-grind for things like lawnmower blades, but this scraper is meant to be hell-fer-stout, so a flat-grind.

The trick to keeping the angle constant is to brace the two hands holding the grinder to your body and then move in a smooth arc. It takes some practice, but you'll get it.

Maybe I should make a video....

Thank You!

 

[NUTTSGT]

Other than obviously copying my technique, they look fine from my shop.

Gave 'em a goodly bevel, I hope?

A little bevel but they were 1/4" and 3/8" so there was a nice corner to weld in. If that sounds right.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'd trust them, but they can use refining. Move slower and watch the puddle till it fills out exactly where you want it to go. Don't manipulate the mig gun as fast as you are probably going. Slower, smaller movements.

Thanks. I appreciate the advice. Moving slower... yeah get that. For some reason I try to weld too fast. I have to force myself to slow down. Practice.Practice.Practice.

Pretty much self taught.

 

[XJSuperman]

Rocksliders are coming together for my toyota project. A couple good, a few ok, and some rough welds make up the balance. I'll spare you the rough ones

 

[Jblount3]

Nothing to crazy for welding projects but it’s functional

 

[PugetDude]

Set of patio furniture... (2) 94" long sofas and a matching coffee table. Kept me busy for the last week or so. Details in my project thread.

 

[kerrynzl]

Plus


equals


A Subaru shift lever for my race car [I wanted the pull up ring for a 1st / rev lockout cable]

The cable goes to this on the top mid plate to prevent money shifting [ 1-2-1 money shifting is a problem on a T56 ]
The wire controls the reverse lockout solenoid from the same pull up ring

 

[Bodj Built]

Thanks. I appreciate the advice. Moving slower... yeah get that. For some reason I try to weld too fast. I have to force myself to slow down. Practice.Practice.Practice.

Pretty much self taught.

Self taught over here as well. Just hours of pouring over youtube and instagram videos and asking questions to people much better than I. Always learning, and that's what I love about welding!

 

[PugetDude]

I'm self taught as well but my teacher is kind of a hack. Fucker follows me everywhere, now he is bagging my groceries at self checkout.

 

[Beerhippie]

At least I had some education in welding!

My boss pointed to the welders and said "Those are welders. Figure 'em out."

And a buddy gave me his forty-year-old Modern Welding textbook from his college days.

 

[Bodj Built]

One of the biggest things I've been taught is that it should sound like sizzling bacon - a little hiss that is constant and not sputtering. And if you're getting a lot of BBs, turn the wire speed up slightly.

 

[LXCam]

One of the biggest things I've been taught is that it should sound like sizzling bacon - a little hiss that is constant and not sputtering. And if you're getting a lot of BBs, turn the wire speed up slightly.

I was taught rattlesnake. But I like your analogy much better…


The thing dreams are made of

 

[txvwnut]

I've always heard the bacon frying reference for stick welding.

 

[kaymccampbell]

I'm self taught as well but my teacher is kind of a hack. Fucker follows me everywhere, now he is bagging my groceries at self checkout.

We've got the same teacher. That ***** is stalking me. Ted's, PO, Sam's, Blomart. I could see her in my rear view mirror.

 

[Lumpy102]

Welded up a frame to accommodate my dust collector and the Oneida cyclone I bought 15 yrs ago and never used, 2 inch 1/8th wall tubing may seem overkill, but the fan motor is HEAVY and 5 ft up in the air, I didn't want it wobbly. Sandblast, paint, caster wheels and some hose still to come..

updates
added a lid lifter so I can dump the collected sawdust/shavings/cutoffs, a hose hanger and casters. its going to have to wait till warmer weather for a sandblast and paint.

 

[XJSuperman]

Here's one worth posting. Turns out the second time I make an assembly, it looks a little better.

 

[IndyGarage]

Lots of fantastically welded stuff here. I probably don't deserve to play.

A couple months ago I bought a crusty 99 F350 for parts. 4x4 Crew cab dually with a steel flat bed with a dump system on it. 7.3 diesel runs perfect. I was going to use the engine and trans to get another truck running.

The problem is the truck has been used as a plow truck and it is a rust bucket underneath. The front of the frame rails where the plow brackets were were rotted away to nothing. The front bumper was swiss cheese. The steering gear literally pulled away from the frame as I was unloading it from the trailer and it would no longer steer. The front 18 inches of the frame rails on both sides were completely rusted away. Somebody sprayed this truck with tar undercoating that literally bathed the entire underside in saltwater as it failed. The undercoating comes off in big sheets. The body of the truck is surprisingly nice.

I started looking at it and thinking it's worth saving, but I needed to find another frame. Then I determined it would be less of a job to replace the front 18 inches of frame on both sides. I happened to have the frame rails from a wrecked F250 that I disassembled last year. I cut the frame behind the engine and dropped the engine and front of the frame out of the truck. The frame was bent, but both rails bent just behind, the part I needed on the rust bucket. So I could use the 03 frame rails on the 99 truck.

I started on the drivers side, in order to make the steering work again.

Here's a picture of the crusty frame rail cut out of the truck. Believe it or not this side was better than the other one:


About 18 inches of frame cut out of the truck. I used some of the landmarks on the frame, in this case the oval hole to cut the old frame and new frame piece in the same spot. It's a little tricky to cut under the truck. I used an angle grinder and a recip saw to get the old part out:


I cleaned it up and welded the new piece in. I could use the other mount points and the bolts for the steering gear to locate the new rail and tack it in. I welded some doubler plates in a few places. It's in there pretty well. This section holds the front leaf springs

Check out that crusty shock. I've since replace the shocks, the brake lines the headlamps and tail lamps. I've got a new front bumper as well. I've got a few other things to repair and weld up. But the truck runs and drives real nicely now. I think this one will go a few more years.

 

[ObnoxiousFumes]

Lots of fantastically welded stuff here. I probably don't deserve to play.

A couple months ago I bought a crusty 99 F350 for parts. 4x4 Crew cab dually with a steel flat bed with a dump system on it. 7.3 diesel runs perfect. I was going to use the engine and trans to get another truck running.

The problem is the truck has been used as a plow truck and it is a rust bucket underneath. The front of the frame rails where the plow brackets were were rotted away to nothing. The front bumper was swiss cheese. The steering gear literally pulled away from the frame as I was unloading it from the trailer and it would no longer steer. The front 18 inches of the frame rails on both sides were completely rusted away. Somebody sprayed this truck with tar undercoating that literally bathed the entire underside in saltwater as it failed. The undercoating comes off in big sheets. The body of the truck is surprisingly nice.

I started looking at it and thinking it's worth saving, but I needed to find another frame. Then I determined it would be less of a job to replace the front 18 inches of frame on both sides. I happened to have the frame rails from a wrecked F250 that I disassembled last year. I cut the frame behind the engine and dropped the engine and front of the frame out of the truck. The frame was bent, but both rails bent just behind, the part I needed on the rust bucket. So I could use the 03 frame rails on the 99 truck.

I started on the drivers side, in order to make the steering work again.

Here's a picture of the crusty frame rail cut out of the truck. Believe it or not this side was better than the other one:


About 18 inches of frame cut out of the truck. I used some of the landmarks on the frame, in this case the oval hole to cut the old frame and new frame piece in the same spot. It's a little tricky to cut under the truck. I used an angle grinder and a recip saw to get the old part out:


I cleaned it up and welded the new piece in. I could use the other mount points and the bolts for the steering gear to locate the new rail and tack it in. I welded some doubler plates in a few places. It's in there pretty well. This section holds the front leaf springs

Check out that crusty shock. I've since replace the shocks, the brake lines the headlamps and tail lamps. I've got a new front bumper as well. I've got a few other things to repair and weld up. But the truck runs and drives real nicely now. I think this one will go a few more years.

Does that pass inspection?

 

[kerrynzl]

My Race car has a remote shifter on a plate welded into the tunnel , So I made a bracket to test all my shifter experiments on the floor with the trans removed from the car.

Under the Tunnel


On the floor


I got some pieces laser cut


And machined in a lathe


"Glue" it all together [with a TIG]
And button it up with the shifter from the previous post [above #9862]

A ratcheting 1st gear lockout for when I power shift from 2nd into 3rd [it also "doubles" as a reverse lockout because Rev is over by 5th gear]


And the great thing is the transmission didn't need dismantling and the whole assembly fits into the tunnel without any clearance issues. [and reversible if I sell the car to a collector]

 

[Bodj Built]

Lots of fantastically welded stuff here. I probably don't deserve to play.

A couple months ago I bought a crusty 99 F350 for parts. 4x4 Crew cab dually with a steel flat bed with a dump system on it. 7.3 diesel runs perfect. I was going to use the engine and trans to get another truck running.

The problem is the truck has been used as a plow truck and it is a rust bucket underneath. The front of the frame rails where the plow brackets were were rotted away to nothing. The front bumper was swiss cheese. The steering gear literally pulled away from the frame as I was unloading it from the trailer and it would no longer steer. The front 18 inches of the frame rails on both sides were completely rusted away. Somebody sprayed this truck with tar undercoating that literally bathed the entire underside in saltwater as it failed. The undercoating comes off in big sheets. The body of the truck is surprisingly nice.

I started looking at it and thinking it's worth saving, but I needed to find another frame. Then I determined it would be less of a job to replace the front 18 inches of frame on both sides. I happened to have the frame rails from a wrecked F250 that I disassembled last year. I cut the frame behind the engine and dropped the engine and front of the frame out of the truck. The frame was bent, but both rails bent just behind, the part I needed on the rust bucket. So I could use the 03 frame rails on the 99 truck.

I started on the drivers side, in order to make the steering work again.

Here's a picture of the crusty frame rail cut out of the truck. Believe it or not this side was better than the other one:


About 18 inches of frame cut out of the truck. I used some of the landmarks on the frame, in this case the oval hole to cut the old frame and new frame piece in the same spot. It's a little tricky to cut under the truck. I used an angle grinder and a recip saw to get the old part out:


I cleaned it up and welded the new piece in. I could use the other mount points and the bolts for the steering gear to locate the new rail and tack it in. I welded some doubler plates in a few places. It's in there pretty well. This section holds the front leaf springs

Check out that crusty shock. I've since replace the shocks, the brake lines the headlamps and tail lamps. I've got a new front bumper as well. I've got a few other things to repair and weld up. But the truck runs and drives real nicely now. I think this one will go a few more years.

Try to make those doubler plates as big as you can, and it’s especially helpful to put them on the bottom side where the forces from the leaf springs pushing up are trying to rip the weld apart.

 

[Bodj Built]

My Race car has a remote shifter on a plate welded into the tunnel , So I made a bracket to test all my shifter experiments on the floor with the trans removed from the car.

Under the Tunnel


On the floor


I got some pieces laser cut


And machined in a lathe


"Glue" it all together [with a TIG]
And button it up with the shifter from the previous post [above #9862]

A ratcheting 1st gear lockout for when I power shift from 2nd into 3rd [it also "doubles" as a reverse lockout because Rev is over by 5th gear]


And the great thing is the transmission didn't need dismantling and the whole assembly fits into the tunnel without any clearance issues. [and reversible if I sell the car to a collector]

Nicely done! I don’t have any understanding of this stuff, but does the ratcheting lockout need to be manually reset after each run?

 

[IndyGarage]

Try to make those doubler plates as big as you can, and it’s especially helpful to put them on the bottom side where the forces from the leaf springs pushing up are trying to rip the weld apart.

The weld on the top and bottom is pretty stout.

I didn't want to get into the steering gear mount with the doublers. I know the theory on big trucks is big doublers, but if you calculate the strength of materials - I did - then the ones I put on are plenty. Given that it didn't collapse with 90% of it gone from rust, I don't think there will be any problems.

 

[kerrynzl]

Nicely done! I don’t have any understanding of this stuff, but does the ratcheting lockout need to be manually reset after each run?

There is a pawl underneath that blocks the internal offset lever from entering 1st gear.
The gear lever has a pull up ring and cable to move this pawl out of the way [to select 1st]
When I change from 1st to 2nd the spring pulls the pawl back into the blocking position.

To reselect 1st simply pull up the ring on the lever. [the 3-4 and 5-6 gates totally clear the pawl]
I added a reverse or "push to open" momentary switch to the lever to operate the reverse lockout solenoid [which is next to 5th]

This is in neutral position [2nd ,4th, 6th go towards the yellow arrow and 1st ,3rd ,5th towards the red arrow]
the 3-4 and 5-6 gates go under the pawl and don't get affected.
the 1-2 gate rotates / lifts the offset lever so it contacts 1st engagement







This is what happens when you wake up at 2.00 am with a crazy idea

 

[kerrynzl]

Nicely done!

Here the gear lever has a pull up ring

 

[jblnut]

Having the wood chunks fall off the end of the splitter has always been a pita so I decided to do something about it today. I know I want it removable so as to not increase the overall storage length of the already hard to store unit.


A few years back I build 180’ of new manure grates like this for a dairy barn for a buddy and I had a short chunk left over. I figured it would make a great holder stand deal.


It’s longer than it needs to be but that’s okay. I’m debating on putting wings on it that’d be angled upward but am going to try it this way first. If it works I’ll leave it otherwise I’ll get out the metal glue gun again and goober something else onto it.


“Stowed” for storage.