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PugetDude

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Mar 13, 2013
Messages
22,325
Location
Superstition Mountains, AZ
You can probably buy the HF stand cheaper than the cost of the steel to build your own...just cut it down to what you need, grind off the paint wherever you need to weld and then blast it back together. Touch up the paint and you are back in business.
 
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XJSuperman

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 26, 2018
Messages
3,086
Location
Central Iowa
Thanks, total cost for the cute little thing was about $335, not counting paint or shop supplies.
EDIT: Something comparable online is about $1300 & up. Blade might be slightly wider but the mount is lighter duty.
You can always find a scrap plow or cheap smaller model and cut it up for add-on wings for yours at a later date if you decide you need the width. At that point it could be a different (possibly cheaper) brand even, if its got the same profile.
 

WoodsTruck

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
1,019
You can always find a scrap plow or cheap smaller model and cut it up for add-on wings for yours at a later date if you decide you need the width. At that point it could be a different (possibly cheaper) brand even, if its got the same profile.
I had a 48" ATV plow that I donated to my dad. Once it was mounted up it was obvious it needed to be wider to be used at an angle.
I then cut out some sections of a dead air compressor tank to widen his blade roughly 6" on each side. Widen the wear bar and he's set.

Edit: To be fair though, he only uses the plow for shallow snow or clean up duty when the snow is too wet to blow. Otherwise the blower gets the job done. He has two identical ATV's now so one is set up for the blower, one for the plow, but can swap if he has an issue with either.
 

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PowerWagonBuilder

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 21, 2025
Messages
82
Location
NW of Richmond, Va
A friend restores WWI and WW2 vehicle's and wanted to properly replace frame rivets with correct shaped heads and such. So I made him this yoke out of a piece of some torch cut 1-1/4" plate and some machined DOM. I machined a Key onto the yoke and into the cylinder tube to aid in the overall shear resistance. Then did 3 TIG passes to weld it on. Prior to assembly, I even put the cylinder and tube into my 50T shop press and proofed it to 15 tons since it is only a 10 ton rated ram. Should have the dies for it turned out by this weekend.

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The final owner is going to radius the edges and such with a flap disc when he gets it. He said there is one spot where the nose needs to be a sleeker profile but he'll safely grind that to fit.

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NUTTSGT

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
50,867
Location
Northern Central Ohio
You can always find a scrap plow or cheap smaller model and cut it up for add-on wings for yours at a later date if you decide you need the width. At that point it could be a different (possibly cheaper) brand even, if its got the same profile.
Yes, always an option. I'd also like to push dirt with it so I don't want it to be too wide.

Just a matter of test driving it now.
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,676
Location
Far NE Oregon
Here's a hybrid project where I got to display not only my poor welding skills, but my lack of practice with brazing!

We have this brand:

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for branding these badges

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to top our iconic "stick" tap handles.

As you can see from the top picture, the brass head of the brand is poorly attached to the steel handle with a single, shallow 8mm tapped blind hole. They go through some heat cycling in using them to brand wood:

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The thread finally gave up the ghost due to the rocking motion necessary to get a uniform burn on the wood.

I needed to fix that.

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I MIG welded the nut, shaft, and a thick washer together after using some Muriatic acid to strip the galvanizing off, then used some fluxed bronze rod to braze the steel assembly to the brass brand head. As you can see, I didn't do a great job of it and flirted with turning the brass head into a pool of molten metal.

A flapwheel and blending disk made my welds look a little better and I think I did a good enough job for a few hundred more tap handle toppers.

I guess I also got to demonstrate that my grinding skills could use some refinement.
 
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VR6ix

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 24, 2013
Messages
355
Location
Onterrible, Canuckistan
I glued some metal together recently and dumped the pics into my Welding folder and found these oldies from 3 years ago February so they get shared first...

So, if you snowboard or XC/DH ski then you know that maintaining the edges and waxing the base is key maintenance. And ski wax irons start at unreasonable $ for junk and go to eyebrow raising $$$ for the brand names.

Enter the cheapest, err, most affordable clothes iron from China Tire. Crappy Tire. Canadian Tire! that's it! Y'all have the same stuff in your USA box stores lol...

That iron, and some scrap parts from work, 5052 and I believe .100"tk maybe .080", and now it's a project! The iron's base is fancy-pants plastic coated so I just made a skin to transfer the heat to the meat:

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VR6ix

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 24, 2013
Messages
355
Location
Onterrible, Canuckistan
Made a deal with a fellow business man and made him some HSS tubes with weld nuts and corresponding feet comprised of bolts and laser-cut foot pads in trade for some of his work, a custom epoxy table slab... I still owed him a bunch of cash for materials once all was said and done.

The weld nuts are projection weld nuts with a round base and 3 points of contact meant to be installed under pressure in a spot welder - I just clamped them and welded 2 sides, heartily slapped each one and said "that ain't going no where" :LOL:

For the feet I laser-cut the pads at work and etched the hex head of the bolt, clamped them in a vice with the flats of the bolt head horizontal on the pads, with the slop in the vice the top edge had a gap which worked out perfect: tack welded the 2 opposing points of the hex on the center line then ran a bead on the upper flat with the gap, set them aside to cool, then welded the bottom flat just on the weld bench, and they were almost perfectly flat with no rock. Didn't have to hammer them back to flat. Got bare steel bolts to avoid messing with zinc coatings.

Scotchbrite makes every weld look better lol...

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strength_and_power

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 26, 2015
Messages
1,393
2 days deep in this vault build. Technically today was the third day but materials didn’t arrive until 3pm the first day so I’m not really counting it. Plan/goal is to finish tomorrow. Overhead stick welding is not my idea of a good time but it ***** less than when I first started building vaults.
9’ x 16’ 49,000#s
 

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PugetDude

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Mar 13, 2013
Messages
22,325
Location
Superstition Mountains, AZ
2 days deep in this vault build. Technically today was the third day but materials didn’t arrive until 3pm the first day so I’m not really counting it. Plan/goal is to finish tomorrow. Overhead stick welding is not my idea of a good time but it ***** less than when I first started building vaults.
9’ x 16’ 49,000#s
What's going into those vaults? Residential or commercial?
 

FTG-05

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 11, 2012
Messages
1,521
Location
TN
I got 10 years on this Agri-Supply Quick Hitch (QH) before it got bent up and no longer was within spec to fit my 3 PH implements.

Pics before repair:

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It took me about 5 minutes to bend everything back straight with my 22 ton Huskee/Speeco log splitter:

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Pics of the repair/welding in next post. Thanks for looking!
 

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FTG-05

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 11, 2012
Messages
1,521
Location
TN
I welded angle iron on the sides and one corner of the top to reinforce it. Most of the angle iron was bed frame angle iron; perfect material for this job.

Prior to paint:

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3/16"x2"x4" test coupon material from the James Lincoln Foundation (aka Lincoln Welders) welded to the insides of the frames; excellent material for small repair jobs like this:

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After alcohol cleaning and paint:

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Thanks for looking!
 
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