Old Man Roger
Well-known member
We all know you’re going to go in huge fiery explosion, nothing left to clean up but the rubble.lol
Show us your welding projects
- Thread starter neonnblack
- Start date
Beefy!!!Had to build another set of saw horses for the feed beds we’re in the business of rebuilding.
8” I-beam cut in half at the web and mounted on triangular legs made of 3x3x3/16 square tube. They’re a little heavy, but we don’t move them around much and the material was paid for.
Welded up with harbor Freight .035” ER70S-6 wire our YesWelder MIG 250 Pro which has been worked HARD and has been excellent. Highly recommended for anyone looking for a super budget friendly MiG welder.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Yeah, I wouldn't try putting anything heavier than, say, a MAC truck on those.Beefy!!!
KwikFab
Well-known member
Some $22 in steel, an hour an a half of labor, and I'll be able to close off a small area to keep the kid and dogs from walking through
Need to cut out and weld some end caps along with legs for staking into the ground followed by paint.
Need to cut out and weld some end caps along with legs for staking into the ground followed by paint.
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RichieP_MechE
Well-known member
Needed a little sheet and plate storage rack for my new baby fiber laser. Whipped this up from some 14 ga 1" square tubing. This job has me jonesing for a fixture table.
KwikFab
Well-known member
I always forget this thread exists lol
Made this a few days ago.
Made this a few days ago.
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Just finished up a full size Christmas sleigh, cut up a big wrought iron $25 garage sale chandelier for the scrolls, the rest is 1/2", 1" square tube and 1/2 x 1" and 1-1/2" rectangular tube. Knocks down for storage.
Details in my project thread.
Details in my project thread.Farmall450
Well-known member
We won't factor in the table cost on this oneSome $22 in steel, an hour an a half of labor, and I'll be able to close off a small area to keep the kid and dogs from walking through
Need to cut out and weld some end caps along with legs for staking into the ground followed by paint.
KwikFab
Well-known member
We won't factor in the table cost on this one
Touche my friend! But all the jobs have paid for my tools!
Farmall450
Well-known member
What table is that? I like the lines - nice touch.Touche my friend! But all the jobs have paid for my tools!
KwikFab
Well-known member
Two tables, PrimeWeld fixtures (cheaper than you'd imagine they would be)
Farmall450
Well-known member
Do you have 2-2x3?
I sort of wish there was an inbetween (it goes $900 to $8000 from 2x3 to 4x8 for those reading this in 20 years
)
Fixture & Plasma Cutting Tables | PrimeWeld
A welding fixture table is essential for serious welders, built tough to handle intense heat and stress without warping. Enjoy accurate welds, reduced setup time, and enhanced safety. Make your next project easier with PrimeWeld's cast iron welding table. Order now!
primeweld.com
KwikFab
Well-known member
Do you have 2-2x3?
I sort of wish there was an inbetween (it goes $900 to $8000 from 2x3 to 4x8 for those reading this in 20 years
Fixture & Plasma Cutting Tables | PrimeWeld
A welding fixture table is essential for serious welders, built tough to handle intense heat and stress without warping. Enjoy accurate welds, reduced setup time, and enhanced safety. Make your next project easier with PrimeWeld's cast iron welding table. Order now!
Yep!
Got them set up for a 2' x 6' orientation and it's been perfect both in terms of projects, but also for space (small garage).
When I do end up getting a different fixture setup, it'll be a Siegmund.
KwikFab
Well-known member
These are great too as I'm running them on my tables.
primeweld.com
Self Leveling Casters For Fixture Table (Single Caster)
Easily move your welding or fixture table around the shop—then lock it into a rock-solid position. This self-leveling caster combines smooth rolling with adjustable leveling, so your table stays secure and steady while you work. Price is for one (1) caster wheel. Add four to your cart for a...
primeweld.com
What is the weight capacity of those castors? Thanks,These are great too as I'm running them on my tables.
Self Leveling Casters For Fixture Table (Single Caster)
Easily move your welding or fixture table around the shop—then lock it into a rock-solid position. This self-leveling caster combines smooth rolling with adjustable leveling, so your table stays secure and steady while you work. Price is for one (1) caster wheel. Add four to your cart for a...
Farmall450
Well-known member
Yeah, I guess you can let stuff overhang quite a bit when it's locked down.
4x8 would be perfect, but you'd be better off getting 4x 2x3 if you could figure out the wheels
I’d like to know as well. I looked at the link but they didn’t list it. My table is around 1500lbs and this would be a lot more handy than using a pallet jack for moving it.
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If you zoom in on the photo, the castor is marked "MAX2450N". So, roughly 550 pounds.
I slapped this together the other evening to be able to hoist bins up on a mezz. I only took one weld pick so…
All the angle and tubing is 1/8” except for the diagonals which is 1/4”. I was very happy to see there was zero spread after loading ~100lbs on it. It’ll be interesting to see how it handles a couple hundy
On Friday she got spray bombed so today will be final assembly with adding a piece of aluminum diamond plate to the base and a 2” plastic cap then off to work it goes.
All the angle and tubing is 1/8” except for the diagonals which is 1/4”. I was very happy to see there was zero spread after loading ~100lbs on it. It’ll be interesting to see how it handles a couple hundy
On Friday she got spray bombed so today will be final assembly with adding a piece of aluminum diamond plate to the base and a 2” plastic cap then off to work it goes.
KwikFab
Well-known member
Can't say, but I can get you an answer once I text my buddy at PW.
Yeah, I guess you can let stuff overhang quite a bit when it's locked down.
4x8 would be perfect, but you'd be better off getting 4x 2x3 if you could figure out the wheels
If there's overhang, I'll support each side that needs it as I made my own table extensions.
I'd attach a picture but every picture I upload suddenly is greyed out and won't attach (even though I uploaded these same pictures in my thread).
KwikFab
Well-known member
Yep, 550lbs per caster just like Jeff said.
I've got a total of 6 on my setup.
aka Larry
Well-known member
A buddy of mine runs a large local roofing business and said he could build me a set of fenders. I sent him a flat layout drawing so he could have one of his guys bend the sheet metal for the fenders. I'll add pair of struts to hold those when I get 'em. Stay tuned...
Update on this project. My buddy fabbed-up the sheet metal fenders several months ago, but I just got time to add them to the trailer.
I ran into a unique problem when I went to remove the wheel. I removed the lug nuts, wheel didn't budge. I kicked it, nope. I hit it with a 12 lb hammer....nada. I decided to unbolt the hubs from the axle so I could at least get some work done.
I used a pair of 1-1/2" square tubes for support struts that I welded to the frame. I will attach the fender to the struts with 3/16" pop-rivets from the back side, thus no fasteners will been seen on the outside. Right now they are held in place with clecos so I could get the fitment just right. I cut the end of the struts at a 45 degree angle and welded on an end cap with a 3/4" hole for a LED side marker lights.
Current status:
WoodsTruck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2013
- Messages
- 1,020
Aluminum wheel/steel hub?
M.Brane
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Diggin' the hi-tek ventilation system.
aka Larry
Well-known member
Actually both are aluminum.
I finally got the two separated yesterday. I removed the wheel center cap and used a 1" solid steel rod with a 8lb hammer on the center of the hub to break it free. The wheel is hub-centric, and the two are compatible size-wise. Since the hub is designed to have a rotor between the hub face and the back of the wheel, the wheel's bore got wedged onto the hub's snout due to the depth difference. I ordered a 5mm wheel spacer last night, which should fix the issue.
WoodsTruck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2013
- Messages
- 1,020
Interesting.
We have a fleet of F150's with aluminum wheels and they tend to corrode on the rear axle typically where they flange against the steel axle stub out. Creates one heck of a time for low mass drivers if they have to change a tire out in the woods. Fleet mechanic usually relieves the inside of the wheel slightly to allow for the crud to buildup and not get bonded. Spacer should do the same trick.
We have a fleet of F150's with aluminum wheels and they tend to corrode on the rear axle typically where they flange against the steel axle stub out. Creates one heck of a time for low mass drivers if they have to change a tire out in the woods. Fleet mechanic usually relieves the inside of the wheel slightly to allow for the crud to buildup and not get bonded. Spacer should do the same trick.
Bodj Built
Well-known member
Coming from southern California this isn't something I've ever had to experience. Is this not something a thin coat of grease or antiseize can't solve? Obviously a bit messy, but seems like an easy solution?
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Would be an ideal use case for Fluid Film.
ObnoxiousFumes
Well-known member
You wouldn’t want to use anything that could run/drip onto the rotor face though.
badmatt
Well-known member
Ive been using this stuff for years... Same can for about the past five.
www.liqui-moly.com
Wheel Hub Paste (can with brush)
Synthetic, metal-free separating paste primarily developed to prevent seizing or rust freezing of the rims on the wheel hub. When used properly, the excellent adhesion properties prevent spin-off, even at high wheel speeds. Operating temperature range: –40 °C to +1,400 °C
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
I've got the same one. It's great to keep the bugs away.
jblnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Fake it until you make it yall and I lived that to a tee today. The end result was my Limbsaw is now mounted on my receiver hitch/equipment mover/ snow plow holder dealio. Yet another use for a simple green plate.
Start with good intentions and a nicely made cut template.
Everything has a story and this piece of iron is no different. This particular iron has had two round pieces takes out of it to make plugs for disc blades turnt into woks for myself and @madison069. Now it’s gonna be a bracket to hold another bracket. A bracket bracket as it were.
When the electric hot glue gun comes out all plans go out the window and we mount things based on emotion.
Start with good intentions and a nicely made cut template.
Everything has a story and this piece of iron is no different. This particular iron has had two round pieces takes out of it to make plugs for disc blades turnt into woks for myself and @madison069. Now it’s gonna be a bracket to hold another bracket. A bracket bracket as it were.
When the electric hot glue gun comes out all plans go out the window and we mount things based on emotion.
madison069
Well-known member
Fake it until you make it yall and I lived that to a tee today. The end result was my Limbsaw is now mounted on my receiver hitch/equipment mover/ snow plow holder dealio. Yet another use for a simple green plate.
Start with good intentions and a nicely made cut template.
Everything has a story and this piece of iron is no different. This particular iron has had two round pieces takes out of it to make plugs for disc blades turnt into woks for myself and @madison069. Now it’s gonna be a bracket to hold another bracket. A bracket bracket as it were.
When the electric hot glue gun comes out all plans go out the window and we mount things based on emotion.
Funny as I just recently used the disc to grill some sandwiches on it! No pictures cause I was hungry and wanted a warm meal that night.
M.Brane
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Hey neighbor I just hit the mating surfaces with a wire wheel when they're apart to clean off the crud. Wax would work better than petro based coatings.
Bodj Built
Well-known member
Heidy ho! What area are you in?
Yeah I was talking about preventative measures before they get full of crud and corrosion.
M.Brane
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Santa Paula
Leaves. The scourge of the fall. I’ve finally figured out how to adapt a JD power flow bagger I had from my scotts lawn tractor, 2 lawn tractors ago, to fit and operate on my newest lawn tractor. I credit @andyvh1959 for getting me off the dime and getting it done. Well, that, the scourge of fall, and me pricing out what I’d need from big green to make it happen also helped.
Spent some time last month and fabbed what I needed to adapt a power flow bagger I bought in 1999 for my 48" Scotts (JD wannabe) lawn tractor to fit up to my 2023 JD S180 with the 54" deck.
I’ve run it now for a couple weeks and it hasn’t blown up yet, so there’s that. And actually, I'm currently running it on my S180 but using the 54" deck from my 2011 JD LA175 (which, amazingly is the same 54" deck, just yellow vice green) for my proof of concept.
I built a bracket to mount the post that supports the bags because the *** end of the scotts is completely different; no plug-and play. The post just hangs off the back of the bracket, clipped into a sort of stake pocket I made. The bracket itself is made out of 1/4" flat bar that I bent and welded and then bolted on using existing bolt holes on the tractor frame.
The challenge was I had to overhang the attachment point for the post further outboard as the tractor frame is a tad narrower and the deck is 6" wider.
The other challenge was making a new jacksheave pulley, as original was sized for a 48" deck, so wrong in both diameter and spindle shaft size. Of course, JD wanted $170 for a compatible one, but I figured it was something i could make for much cheaper.
I took an old spindle pulley I'd "retained" from replacing spindles on the LA175 deck some years ago and found a 4" pulley to serve as the driving end for the blower. I cut and welded a short section of aluminized steel from a hunk of exhaust pipe to the deck pulley and then I cut out the center of the 4" pulley with a hole saw and welded that to the top.
My "creation" looks the same as the original jack sheave pulley, but sized to fit my current deck. Now that the concept was proven out, I'll paint it and swap it out to the newest deck at some point.
For the safety bubbas, I've still got to fabricate a shield or cover for that pulley, when I get to it. The power flow blower itself was actually a direct fit, although the current current kit that JD specs out for the S180/LA175 looks a bit different and runs over $1000. I refurbed the blower with new bearings that I found I already had and just received a new belt to replace the original 26 year old one.
And the wife wonders why I've kept (and moved) those machines.
So the only issue is I'd forgotten how quickly it picks up leaves; the issue is we've got much more than I would like. Already thinking of the next upgrade to replicate a setup a neighbor from almost 40 years ago had. It was a JD setup with a towed dump cart that was fixed to the mower and it had 2 large swivel caster wheels to support the dump bed but it followed the mower. I've added another item on my LOSTD.
Spent some time last month and fabbed what I needed to adapt a power flow bagger I bought in 1999 for my 48" Scotts (JD wannabe) lawn tractor to fit up to my 2023 JD S180 with the 54" deck.
I’ve run it now for a couple weeks and it hasn’t blown up yet, so there’s that. And actually, I'm currently running it on my S180 but using the 54" deck from my 2011 JD LA175 (which, amazingly is the same 54" deck, just yellow vice green) for my proof of concept.
I built a bracket to mount the post that supports the bags because the *** end of the scotts is completely different; no plug-and play. The post just hangs off the back of the bracket, clipped into a sort of stake pocket I made. The bracket itself is made out of 1/4" flat bar that I bent and welded and then bolted on using existing bolt holes on the tractor frame.
The challenge was I had to overhang the attachment point for the post further outboard as the tractor frame is a tad narrower and the deck is 6" wider.
The other challenge was making a new jacksheave pulley, as original was sized for a 48" deck, so wrong in both diameter and spindle shaft size. Of course, JD wanted $170 for a compatible one, but I figured it was something i could make for much cheaper.
I took an old spindle pulley I'd "retained" from replacing spindles on the LA175 deck some years ago and found a 4" pulley to serve as the driving end for the blower. I cut and welded a short section of aluminized steel from a hunk of exhaust pipe to the deck pulley and then I cut out the center of the 4" pulley with a hole saw and welded that to the top.
My "creation" looks the same as the original jack sheave pulley, but sized to fit my current deck. Now that the concept was proven out, I'll paint it and swap it out to the newest deck at some point.
For the safety bubbas, I've still got to fabricate a shield or cover for that pulley, when I get to it. The power flow blower itself was actually a direct fit, although the current current kit that JD specs out for the S180/LA175 looks a bit different and runs over $1000. I refurbed the blower with new bearings that I found I already had and just received a new belt to replace the original 26 year old one.
And the wife wonders why I've kept (and moved) those machines.
So the only issue is I'd forgotten how quickly it picks up leaves; the issue is we've got much more than I would like. Already thinking of the next upgrade to replicate a setup a neighbor from almost 40 years ago had. It was a JD setup with a towed dump cart that was fixed to the mower and it had 2 large swivel caster wheels to support the dump bed but it followed the mower. I've added another item on my LOSTD.
Rccrawlerguy
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2011
- Messages
- 254
I'm a pro fabricator. I do pipe mainly. You can buy tools like these, but what fun is that? I decided to design my own and cut on the plasma table. 
The bottom part is the screw part of a pipe stand. The upper part I designed. It is made to clamp on, and keep pipes from rolling on the stands. I made it for pipe up to 10". Mainly when you are laying out holes or tacking fittings on.
This one is a roller. It is made so you can position pipes and turn them. IT will work with 1"pipe and up. I have made a couple before, they were similar, but not as refined. Now I just need to head to the garage and fire up the plasma table...
The bottom part is the screw part of a pipe stand. The upper part I designed. It is made to clamp on, and keep pipes from rolling on the stands. I made it for pipe up to 10". Mainly when you are laying out holes or tacking fittings on.
This one is a roller. It is made so you can position pipes and turn them. IT will work with 1"pipe and up. I have made a couple before, they were similar, but not as refined. Now I just need to head to the garage and fire up the plasma table...
KwikFab
Well-known member
I'm a pro fabricator. I do pipe mainly. You can buy tools like these, but what fun is that? I decided to design my own and cut on the plasma table.
The bottom part is the screw part of a pipe stand. The upper part I designed. It is made to clamp on, and keep pipes from rolling on the stands. I made it for pipe up to 10". Mainly when you are laying out holes or tacking fittings on.
This one is a roller. It is made so you can position pipes and turn them. IT will work with 1"pipe and up. I have made a couple before, they were similar, but not as refined. Now I just need to head to the garage and fire up the plasma table...
Nice!
Drew one up as my friend needed some a few weeks back.
Industrial HVAC so he's often dealing with pipe of various sizes.
30 minutes on the PC.
2 minutes on the plasma table.
Hobbyist here though.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Damn, I sure could use on e of them there CNC plasma tables... like right now.
PTB want a table around a pole out in the front yard seating area as a standing table. Problem is, there are fittings welded to the top of the pole to support cables and low-voltage wiring. AI can't reasonably remove those, so what to do?
A coworker traded a round patio table for a square one we had. My plan is to cut it in half then weld it back together around the pole and weld it to the pole to get standing table height--~42" from the ground.
First problem is that I need to cut a hole in the center of the table. I'm planning to make a collar that I can weld to the hole in the table and to the pole, so I want a nice, round hole. I have a funky trammel I made for the plasma cutter, but the table has a 1 1/2" hole in the center for an umbrella (the pole it's going around is 4"), so
Why I don't throw metal away. A scrap of trammel-cut metal from another project is perfect. Tack it down and
Getting too dark and cold to work outside. I'll get 'er done tomorrow.
When I go to weld it up, I'll remember to change the welder settings from where they are now--maximum--to appropriate for thin Chinesium (maybe Indiaum?) steel.
I'll be cutting off the lower parts of the legs and making some kind of gap filler for the ring on the bottom that I can weld in place. The pole this goes around is not, of course, anything resembling plumb.
Fun part is going to be getting my 30-year-old MIG welder out to where I need to do the welding in the muddy yard. I have plenty of 8 AWG extension cord for the run from the breaker box, so that's not a problem.
PTB want a table around a pole out in the front yard seating area as a standing table. Problem is, there are fittings welded to the top of the pole to support cables and low-voltage wiring. AI can't reasonably remove those, so what to do?
A coworker traded a round patio table for a square one we had. My plan is to cut it in half then weld it back together around the pole and weld it to the pole to get standing table height--~42" from the ground.
First problem is that I need to cut a hole in the center of the table. I'm planning to make a collar that I can weld to the hole in the table and to the pole, so I want a nice, round hole. I have a funky trammel I made for the plasma cutter, but the table has a 1 1/2" hole in the center for an umbrella (the pole it's going around is 4"), so
Why I don't throw metal away. A scrap of trammel-cut metal from another project is perfect. Tack it down and
Getting too dark and cold to work outside. I'll get 'er done tomorrow.
When I go to weld it up, I'll remember to change the welder settings from where they are now--maximum--to appropriate for thin Chinesium (maybe Indiaum?) steel.
I'll be cutting off the lower parts of the legs and making some kind of gap filler for the ring on the bottom that I can weld in place. The pole this goes around is not, of course, anything resembling plumb.
Fun part is going to be getting my 30-year-old MIG welder out to where I need to do the welding in the muddy yard. I have plenty of 8 AWG extension cord for the run from the breaker box, so that's not a problem.
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