Adam McLaughlin
Well-known member
What is it? An early TIG box or a Stick machine?
Adam
Adam
Show us your welding projects
- Thread starter neonnblack
- Start date
Miller 330 A/BP, 300+amp AC/DC hi frequency, sine wave tig machine, of course can run stick process as well. A bit dated in this day and age but can still do good work. They are a very solid machine.
iamironman
Well-known member
Yes a bit dated, but that model, and its badge engineered cousin, the Airco Heliwelder, truly deserve top billing in the welder hall of fame. Great machines.
Fyrme
Well-known member
Yes, that is correct. After talking to several Miller dealers, they all pretty much agreed, the older welders are built way better than the new ones. The only draw back is the size.
Uhm
And power input and weight and features and parts availability. Don't get me wrong they are great for the home shop, but there are good reasons why they are being phased out of industrial settings.Challenger_2MBT
Well-known member
Challenger_2MBT
Well-known member
WhoWhatNow
Well-known member
You can't show those pics without showing at least one of the whole loco. More pics man!
Nice work by the way.
jhn9840
Well-known member
That is a very cool project. Are there any more details available about it elsewhere?
jhn9840
John
jhn9840
John
Challenger_2MBT
Well-known member
readhead
Well-known member
Can't tell if it is an E unit or F unit. What are you doing to it? Where is it?
Challenger_2MBT
Well-known member
Locomotive is a former New Haven FL9. It is receiving a cosmetic restoration in preparation for travelling south to an event this coming spring. Its being restored at a railroad shop in western CT.
A question for those of you who know what they're doing when painting something made from metal from the local metal supply.
What is your process for getting good paint adhesion on metal that comes with heavy mill scale? I tend to over think things and I'd love to see if there's a decently quick method that gives good results.
What is your process for getting good paint adhesion on metal that comes with heavy mill scale? I tend to over think things and I'd love to see if there's a decently quick method that gives good results.
WakonTonka
Well-known member
Depending on the final finish required, I have had nice results using latex-based products. If the mill scale HAS to be GONE, use a flap wheel to remove it.
First clean the oils off with acetone (safety glasses, gloves & respirator please). Use a rust converter + primer product such as this one from HD:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Corroseal-1-gal-Rust-Converter-Primer-82331/202960541.
Now that it is degreased, converted and primed, top coat and done.
First clean the oils off with acetone (safety glasses, gloves & respirator please). Use a rust converter + primer product such as this one from HD:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Corroseal-1-gal-Rust-Converter-Primer-82331/202960541.
Now that it is degreased, converted and primed, top coat and done.
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BD1
Well-known member
BD1
Well-known member
Here's a pony clamp light set up. My eyes aren't what they used to be so I did this. Just a 3/4'' pipe pony clamp with a 90 bent on it with a HF pipe bender. Works great. The light slides on a couple of electrical mines screwed to the light. You can even swivel the pipe in the threaded part of the clamp. Plus you can slide light off and still use the clamp.
The other pony clamp part is the slide only. Got it for a buck at flea market . I use it for a stand with a screw on ''V'' block and have a screw on piece of channel for flat material . Works great on the HF band saw.
The other pony clamp part is the slide only. Got it for a buck at flea market . I use it for a stand with a screw on ''V'' block and have a screw on piece of channel for flat material . Works great on the HF band saw.
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zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Finished up a +10" swingarm for a sand quad that had for sale on ebay. I had it listed as unfinished as I don't have the time to complete it and have scrapped the project. However, a guy in Texas wanted it and the only way he would buy it was if I completed it. So Friday afternoon and Saturday morning I completed it so I can get it boxed up and ready to ship to Texas.
Fabricated out of 4130 chromoly tubing.
I will post up more pictures of the fabrication in my "Shop Projects" section which can be accessed from my signature.
Mike.
Fabricated out of 4130 chromoly tubing.
I will post up more pictures of the fabrication in my "Shop Projects" section which can be accessed from my signature.
Mike.
My through-together wooden stock box finally failed yesterday (the bottom pulled loose). So, I spent the afternoon reinforcing it. In the background of the first photo, you can see the plastic rain guttering I use to segregate the pieces by size and type. The close ups show a down and dirty “cheater’s miter”. I think the Harbor Freight wire splatters worse than the Hobart but it only costs half as much. Not sure if I’ll use any more after this roll. I only have to weld a cross strip across the bottom, reinstall the wheels and load the material back in and I’m ready to go for 300 pounds. I will post more photos on completion.
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I finished the stock box. Kinda wish I had added casters or wheels to the front but it’s current position is more or less permanent anyway and besides the slight slope helps with getting individual pieces in and out of the cubby holes. I may do it eventually but the present location is just right as far as accessibility and being out of the way of everything else is concerned. What I like about it is the small footprint yet gives the ability to sort and segregate by size and type.
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Fyrme
Well-known member
Nice job. I guess you don't have much odd ball shaped scrap you hang on to, or is it in a different place? I have some arched 2" square tube left over from a gate I built for a lady. I've kept the pieces knowing I'll use them some day, but they have been a pain in my **** to store ever since. LOL!
I'm just starting out with welding. I'm really just a newbie. I've only had my Miller 140 for about one year & 3 months now. Before that it was a 100 amp ac only buzz box and a 100 amp flux core only box. I wasn't skilled enough to use the first very well and the second just made downright ugly welds!
I've been mostly having a ball making these little figurines out of fasteners and other steel parts (rebar, nails etc). I'll have to post some pictures of my efforts so far.
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Very nice looking stock box. I would like to make something similar.
I use the HF flux core wire sometimes, but it does have a lot of spatter and smoke.
The best deals I have found on mig wire are at USAWeld
2 10 lb Rolls ER70S-6 .035" Mild Steel MIG Welding Wire Ships Free
US $35.90
2 10lb .035" HTP Flux Cored E71T-GS Gasless Steel Mig Wire core Ships Free
US $78.40
I have used several rolls of this ER70S-6 and I like it a lot. I'm going to order the flux core soon, as it is about half the price of some of the others.
Thanks for the flowers and the info. I will check out that site soon.
Yeah, that's why I bought the Miller. I'll keep the flux core box for outdoor and portable use but only for that. The close ups show how the HF ER70S-6 spatters. It's not nearly as bad as flux core but I think MIG process shouldn't spatter quite that much even if welding not so perfectly prepared surfaces. Then, again what do I know? Maybe welding mill scale just does that? Any of you more experienced guys have any information you'd like to share about this? Thanks again for the info.
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
I have been getting some spare time lately and was able to get some work done on my chevy.
The rear tail pan was butchered by the previous owner as was the rockers, and quarters. I am at the last bit of the exterior and than I have to move onto the trunk and inner structure.
I am to cheap to purchase the rear tail pan so I decided to make it being I have sheet metal and a shrinker /stretcher.
The blank cut out
Put the bend in it and start shrinking/ stretching
cut out the old and fit up the new
.
The rear tail pan was butchered by the previous owner as was the rockers, and quarters. I am at the last bit of the exterior and than I have to move onto the trunk and inner structure.
I am to cheap to purchase the rear tail pan so I decided to make it being I have sheet metal and a shrinker /stretcher.
The blank cut out
Put the bend in it and start shrinking/ stretching
cut out the old and fit up the new
.
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alpinewhite
Well-known member
Question for MP&C. How would something like this be planished? There is no access to the back.
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
I did it that way because the trunk area is gone also. I have cut a lot out so I can planish it.
It had to go any way because it was all just filled with some type of caulk. The metal was gone.
I know Robert can give much more insight than me on the whole planishing subject. I am just getting into trying to use little to know bondo.
It had to go any way because it was all just filled with some type of caulk. The metal was gone.
I know Robert can give much more insight than me on the whole planishing subject. I am just getting into trying to use little to know bondo.
Zeke
Well-known member
@stinkity stoink, those are some nice spot welds. Do that over and over and you won't have to beat on it and won't have a lot of grinding to do.
koditten
Well-known member
I like the "zoo" you build. You have more money in the floor board screws then the rest of the animals.
KO
MP&C
Well-known member
For a repair like that one could take a piece of round stock and put an offset bend in it to accommodate working around a detail like that, or cut something out of some steel flat bar with the offset. Many times you need to make your own dolly for planishing based on the application.
Another option is to eliminate the need for that weld seam by using a hammer form to make the trunk opening detail part of the new patch. One could bend the top fold, then clamp in a pipe of said size, and hammer the inside detail around the pipe. Once that is done, bend the bottom fold. Then it becomes a drill out the spot welds, add some plug welds to hold in the new piece, and you're done..
But Dave's got some nice fit up and welds there, shouldn't be too much clean up as it is...
Here's a little 4 ton press I just finished. Couldn't justify a large press as I am very limited on floor space and I didn't like any of the Chinese options. It stands 29" tall, there's 16" of work space between the uprights and with the bed resting on the legs there's 10" between the top of the bed and the bottom of the horizontal upper bars. The guide bars for the jack are some CAD plated round stock that I threaded to accept 8mm bolts top and bottom. I had to photograph it outside to show the correct color. The paint is rattle can Rust-Oleum "Hammered Rosemary." With the arbor plates it weighs 61.5 lbs. I intend to use it to press small items and as a break for small brackets and miscellaneous pieces.
I welded the female end of a 1/2" extension to the jack plate so I can attach an extension and socket... this is convenient as it will hold the tooling to drive bearing and seals. I can attach what ever socket I need to match the work.The pins to hold the work bench are hitch pins that I extended so the bed sits safely. There is a continuous piece of 2 x 3/16" thick strap that is welded to the underside of the top pieces to reinforce the load bearing areas.
I found a nice piece of tubing to replace the flimsy handle that came with the bottle jack. The other end has a smaller diameter tube with the end crushed to be used as the jack release. That tube is pressed into the handle. I will find a plug for the open end for a more finished look and will attach a clip to the press itself to store the jack handle. In this pic you can see how I attached the jack to the base. At the rear I pressed a roll pin into the base to act as a guide and at the front I tapped a 6mm hole into the base and bolted through the jack base.
I welded the female end of a 1/2" extension to the jack plate so I can attach an extension and socket... this is convenient as it will hold the tooling to drive bearing and seals. I can attach what ever socket I need to match the work.The pins to hold the work bench are hitch pins that I extended so the bed sits safely. There is a continuous piece of 2 x 3/16" thick strap that is welded to the underside of the top pieces to reinforce the load bearing areas.
I found a nice piece of tubing to replace the flimsy handle that came with the bottle jack. The other end has a smaller diameter tube with the end crushed to be used as the jack release. That tube is pressed into the handle. I will find a plug for the open end for a more finished look and will attach a clip to the press itself to store the jack handle. In this pic you can see how I attached the jack to the base. At the rear I pressed a roll pin into the base to act as a guide and at the front I tapped a 6mm hole into the base and bolted through the jack base.
Here's a little 4 ton press I just finished. Couldn't justify a large press as I am very limited on floor space and I didn't like any of the Chinese options. It stands 29" tall, there's 16" of work space between the uprights and with the bed resting on the legs there's 10" between the top of the bed and the bottom of the horizontal upper bars. The guide bars for the jack are some CAD plated round stock that I threaded to accept 8mm bolts top and bottom. I had to photograph it outside to show the correct color. The paint is rattle can Rust-Oleum "Hammered Rosemary." With the arbor plates it weighs 61.5 lbs. I intend to use it to press small items and as a break for small brackets and miscellaneous pieces.
I welded the female end of a 1/2" extension to the jack plate so I can attach an extension and socket... this is convenient as it will hold the tooling to drive bearing and seals. I can attach what ever socket I need to match the work.The pins to hold the work bench are hitch pins that I extended so the bed sits safely. There is a continuous piece of 2 x 3/16" thick strap that is welded to the underside of the top pieces to reinforce the load bearing areas.
I found a nice piece of tubing to replace the flimsy handle that came with the bottle jack. The other end has a smaller diameter tube with the end crushed to be used as the jack release. That tube is pressed into the handle. I will find a plug for the open end for a more finished look and will attach a clip to the press itself to store the jack handle. In this pic you can see how I attached the jack to the base. At the rear I pressed a roll pin into the base to act as a guide and at the front I tapped a 6mm hole into the base and bolted through the jack base.
Very cool, Louie!
Askme42
Well-known member
So I'm a newbie. Today was my first day welding but started on a frame jig today. Critic away on the weld.
Askme42
Well-known member
Hobart handler 140. No gas yet just flux core.
Was asked to make a "Blue Heron" out of "mixed media" for a lady. The body is a shovel, the head is an antique pruning shear, flat stock for the wings, rebar legs... She wants it for her yard so no need to grind and paint.
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
That is a much easier solution Robert. I was definitely a bit intimidated to cut into the opening of the trunk . I guess I should have attempted to make the piece the way you described ,but I honestly never gave that a thought. Next time I hopefully think of the easier way.
Thanks Zeke
Fyrme
Well-known member
Here's a little 4 ton press I just finished. Couldn't justify a large press as I am very limited on floor space and I didn't like any of the Chinese options. It stands 29" tall, there's 16" of work space between the uprights and with the bed resting on the legs there's 10" between the top of the bed and the bottom of the horizontal upper bars. The guide bars for the jack are some CAD plated round stock that I threaded to accept 8mm bolts top and bottom. I had to photograph it outside to show the correct color. The paint is rattle can Rust-Oleum "Hammered Rosemary." With the arbor plates it weighs 61.5 lbs. I intend to use it to press small items and as a break for small brackets and miscellaneous pieces.
I welded the female end of a 1/2" extension to the jack plate so I can attach an extension and socket... this is convenient as it will hold the tooling to drive bearing and seals. I can attach what ever socket I need to match the work.The pins to hold the work bench are hitch pins that I extended so the bed sits safely. There is a continuous piece of 2 x 3/16" thick strap that is welded to the underside of the top pieces to reinforce the load bearing areas.
I found a nice piece of tubing to replace the flimsy handle that came with the bottle jack. The other end has a smaller diameter tube with the end crushed to be used as the jack release. That tube is pressed into the handle. I will find a plug for the open end for a more finished look and will attach a clip to the press itself to store the jack handle. In this pic you can see how I attached the jack to the base. At the rear I pressed a roll pin into the base to act as a guide and at the front I tapped a 6mm hole into the base and bolted through the jack base.
Great looking press Louie. I noticed a couple things. First is that I'm wondering if you will need added gusseting in the corners. Even 4tons is gonna put a lot of stress in those areas.
And are the two horizontal members there for strength? I assume the post passes between them?
I built my 20ton press years ago and it gets about as much use as a treadmill in a fat chicks basement. BUT! when I need it, I'm sure glad I have it. I sometimes wish I had a big arbor press for the small jobs.
Thanks!
Thanks. I am wondering the same thing about the stress that the ram will create. My plan to is to monitor the welds by looking for cracks in the paint finish and deflection. I will add strength as needed. The two horizontal bars midway are only there to locate the vertical guides. The length of the jack is set so the jack base stops short of them so they are never stressed.