Show us your welding projects

[mv213]

@Blue Chips that’s the most creative use of steel angle ever. I really love the caster outriggers, that just looks so great. Love this cart!

 

[zmotorsports]

@Blue Chips AWESOME job on the TIG cart. Very well done.

 

[Blue Chips]

Nice rig!

@Blue Chips that’s the most creative use of steel angle ever. I really love the caster outriggers, that just looks so great. Love this cart!

@Blue Chips AWESOME job on the TIG cart. Very well done.

Thanks all.

I'm not a fast worker; I generally just plug away at things until I'm happy with the results. The TIG cart has been working well for me. As mentioned, my shop is pretty small, so the maneuverability of the cart has proven to be its best feature. It gets parked in a lot of different spots, depending on where I need to make room for working on something. My shop is basically half of a double garage, plus some tool storage on the other side, leaving just enough room to accommodate the spousal transport unit and allow her to open the car doors. If I ever get the shop cleaned up, I'll post a photo or two. I also have a couple of shipping containers full of projects/tools/car, etc., but they're not set up for working...just storage.

More welding project posts coming when I have a moment.

 

[Blue Chips]

I just finished a rotisserie for use in 1965-66 Ford truck restoration mostly.

That's a great rotisserie. Very versatile design, and it looks very well crafted. If I had room for something like that, it would move up several notches on my 'to-do' list. I've been picking away...very slowly...at the restoration of a 1954 Dodge M37, and a rotisserie would make a lot of tasks easier.

 

[kyrbz]

A privacy screen my wife and I designed and built for a client several years ago. My wife used to be a textile designer and is very good at putting patterns into repeat, so to simplify the design, the screen is comprised of 6 identical panels in a repeat pattern.

 

[kyrbz]

A few more pics of the privacy screen

 

[Blue Chips]

A privacy screen my wife and I designed and built for a client several years ago.

That's a very attractive screen. I can see that it took some careful planning. What is it finished with? Powder coat, perhaps?

 

[kyrbz]

That's a very attractive screen. I can see that it took some careful planning. What is it finished with? Powder coat, perhaps?

Thanks for the compliment. Yes it was powder coated.

 

[VR6ix]

Very nice work and workspace kyrbz! Was that a side-hustle job or your own business?
I designed a "tapping arm" for the Talon stud welded at work for production runs. Seems to work great, but I just drove the desk, didn't do any fab work myself lol as that's not my role. I have a photo somewhere...

 

[Blue Chips]

I'm gradually getting caught up in posting some welding projects. Here's another one that I posted on another site a couple of years ago.

I bought an antique Peter Wright blacksmith leg vise, cleaned it up, and fabricated a stand for it. I can’t find a “before” picture of the vise, but here is an “after” photo. It was in pretty good overall condition when I bought it and only had a light 'patina' of surface rust, grease, and dirt, so the cleanup work was primarily cosmetic, other than a very minor bit of truing of the jaw faces and adjustments to the pivot bolt. I disassembled it, cleaned it with solvent, and gave some parts a light grit blasting before applying a thin coat of high-temperature BBQ paint, which has held up well so far.



Fortunately, the threads and box were still in very good shape.



Because of my small shop size, I wanted the vise to be moveable, so instead of mounting the vise on a workbench, I built a stand that I could roll out into the driveway when I wanted to play with my forges.

I've never built a stand like this one, so it's an experimental design.





The bottom plate is 1/2-inch steel, and I added two adjustable feet for leveling it if the ground happens to be a bit uneven. It does not rest on the casters until you tip it back onto them. The idea with the bottom plate is that you would stand on the plate when using the vise to provide more stability. I added a mid-point support for the leg, not because it really needed it, but I’ve seen a number of these old leg vises that had a kink in the leg, possibly from using the vise for cold-bending long, heavy items. I certainly wouldn’t abuse the vise like that, but I succumbed to my tendency to over-engineer things and added the support anyway. I placed some spacers under the mounting plate to allow for a future 3/8” steel working surface that I might add at some point. The brackets on the side are for hanging hammers, tongs, etc. If I were to build this again, I'd use larger casters, placed farther apart.







My standard disclaimer: I do not guarantee the safety, efficacy, or applicability of any of my designs or ideas that I have described here in this thread. Any use of my designs or ideas is entirely at your own risk.

I'm always open to suggestions for changes or improvements.

 

[y'sguy]

Beautiful workmanship

 

[Blue Chips]

Beautiful workmanship

Thanks, y'sguy. I just finished looking through your toolbox restoration thread, and I must say that's the most extensive toolbox restoration that I've ever seen. Beautiful job!

By the way, I see you have a really nice T-Bird. I had a '57 T-Bird when I was in college. 312 with wire wheels and all of the options except for the Continental kit. That was a LONG time ago. I think I paid something like $1,350 for it and sold it a couple of years later (I think it was in 1970) for about $2,500. That was one of at least half a dozen cars I wish I had hung on to, but hindsight is 20-20. Oh, well...

My current off-and-on automobile restoration project is a 1954 Dodge M37. I'm about 3/4 done, but I've been sidetracked for a number of years while restoring a Federal Period center-chimney cape house in Maine.

 

[y'sguy]

Thanks, Blue Chips, My little bird was the first car I've ever owned. bought in 1967. My dad brought it home and it was pitiful. Talked me into buying it from him. 56 years now.

 

[kyrbz]

My technique for making a low profile leveler feet on tables or benches that don't have a traditional straight tube legs

 

[MadeByMiller]

Great idea and execution, and once again, outstanding metalfinishing.

 

[rvieceli]

very nicely done. The foot appears to be an elevator bolt is that correct? Thanks

Ron

 

[MP&C]

Working on a little side project. I welded up this 2 1/2” x 1/4” tube to this 1/4” plate. The plate warped slightly. This was a trial run, so I just used the flux core wire I had in my welder. Will make welds prettier next time. I did a small stitch on each side to hold it in place and square, then welded each face.

Question is how can I prevent the 1/4” plate from warping? Clamp closer to the tube?

Good weld penetration? I would have expected that once the fillet welds cooled and shrunk it would have pulled up the other direction.

 

[kyrbz]

very nicely done. The foot appears to be an elevator bolt is that correct? Thanks

Ron

yes on the elevator bolt

 

[kyrbz]

My shop is getting too cramped so I've been thinking about building mobile work tables for my various motorcycle and scooter restoration projects. That way I could put each one on it's own work table and push the tables together to save space. Then I could just pull out the one I want to work on. Kind of a filing system for bikes. This is the first one I built. It has a drop out for rear wheels and lots of holes in the frame for future accessories. I often like to hang the frames when I first begin reassembling a bike, so bolt on structures for hanging frames is a future planned accessory. I bought the front wheel vise on this first one but maybe I'll make future ones.

 

[jblnut]

I purchased a new "pickup" to use on the farm and the previous owner had ramps.on the back to load a rock crawler and they had to go .....


Once they were taken off I started to cannibalize them for their iron ....


A chunk of the tubing became leveling blocks of sorts .....


The longer pieces became the new side rails. I ended up purchasing some 2x5x3/16 tubing to finish as I didn't have enough just laying around lol. It looks better already !! The plan is to put the same 3/16" diamond plate on top that is on the rest of the bed and use some 1/8" diamond plate to skirt the bed and drop from the flatbed to the bumper. I'm pumped to get this done so I can use this beaut !!

 

[G-ManBart]

Like most folks, I probably worried about learning how to weld big stuff at first....now I'm working on small stuff. This is a practice joint on stainless with .035" filler wire.



A friend wanted a cantilever rack system for storing good lumber and this is what I came up with before paint and after installation. The right side doesn't have the lower arms because a bench is going to fill that space. The rack is anchored to concrete behind the drywall and I tested them all by hanging on the longer arms

 

[sqznby]

My technique for making a low profile leveler feet on tables or benches that don't have a traditional straight tube legs

Very nice, love working with square tubing so fun. You make it look too easy
Is that a Ducati in the background?

 

[kyrbz]

Very nice, love working with square tubing so fun. You make it look too easy
Is that a Ducati in the background?

Thanks, The Ducati belongs to a friend

 

[Blue Chips]

Here's another of my older welding projects:

I have a 2002 model Toro Wheel Horse 522xi, which is a small, but heavy-duty garden tractor. It's been going strong since I bought it in 2008, and it will be ready for some cosmetic updating soon.

One of the things I use Wheel Horse for is repositioning our flat-bed trailer on our property. I fabricated a trailer hitch receiver (see below) that bolts onto the back of the tractor and is easily removable, although I haven't had occasion to remove it yet.





I should add that the trailer I move with the tractor does not put much tongue weight on the hitch.

My standard disclaimer: I do not guarantee the safety, efficacy, or applicability of any of my designs or ideas that I have described here in this thread. Any use of my designs or ideas is entirely at your own risk.

 

[Kenstone1]

Here's another of my older welding projects:

I have a 2002 model Toro Wheel Horse 522xi, which is a small, but heavy-duty garden tractor. It's been going strong since I bought it in 2008, and it will be ready for some cosmetic updating soon.

One of the things I use Wheel Horse for is repositioning our flat-bed trailer on our property. I fabricated a trailer hitch receiver (see below) that bolts onto the back of the tractor and is easily removable, although I haven't had occasion to remove it yet.

Nice Fab.
That far back from the axle, it could become a potential "wheely-bar" with the added tongue weight of the trailer.
I hope that is not the case though.
.

 

[Blue Chips]

Nice job.
That far back from the axle, it could become a potential "wheely-bar" with the added tongue weight of the trailer.
I hope that is not the case though.

Thanks, @Kenstone1, fair comment about tongue weight, but it's not a problem for how I use the hitch. In fact, it's almost the opposite situation, since the trailer that I move around is used for moving and launching our floating dock. The dock extends out past the end of the trailer, so the trailer tongue actually has negative weight when loaded, and I have to add about a hundred pounds on the tongue to keep it down. And when the trailer is empty, the tongue doesn't put much weight on the hitch anyway.

The reason the hitch extends out a bit is to allow me to make very sharp turns with the tractor without hitting the trailer tongue, so that I can pivot the trailer on its wheels to get it in and out of some tight places in the yard.

To launch our floating dock, I back the trailer into the water (using my truck, not the garden tractor) until the dock floats off of it, just like launching a boat. The trailer has waterproof LED lights, double grease seals on the hubs, waterproof marine grease, and the hub caps are sealed. I never back the trailer into the water with warm hubs, either (which could cause negative pressure in the hubs when they cool, and possibly **** water in). The boat 'ramp' that I use is on a neighbor's property that's located only two houses downstream from us, so the hubs never have a chance to get warmed up. I've opened up the hubs a couple of times just to check, and there's never been a drop of water in them.

Here's a photo of the trailer behind my truck with the dock loaded, ready to take over to our neighbor's place for launching.



And a photo of the dock in the river. It's a tidal river, so the 'stiff-arm/strut' dock system that I fabricated is designed to accommodate the 4- to 6-foot tidal changes. We have to pull the dock out of the water each year before the river freezes over.



The dock fabrication involved some welding when making the posts and hinges that are set into the bedrock shoreline, so I may post some of that project here when I have some time.

Edit: I should mention that I had the aluminum gangway built to my specs by a local company, but I fabbed up the rest of the dock system myself, including the floating dock, struts, cross bracing, shore post/pivot system, shore platform, etc. Photos coming later.

 

[jblnut]

Flatbed addition is progressing !!


First project to really stretch the legs of the welding table. Sure glad to have this thing !!


This is going to be an adventure......


The little Ryobi jig saw actually did very well with that 3/16" diamond plate and I had all the pieces I needed cut in under a half hour. Not bad really


Time for a rear skirt. This was cut from a piece of diamond plate that has been bouncing around for years just waiting for a purpose. Twas a bit rusty because of it !!


I think I'm going to bolt it on with some Gr8 button heads. Might look nice ..... Who knows.

 

[thomastheschoolie]

Didn't find a topic like this where everyone could share pictures of their good (or bad) welding/fab projects and maybe get pointers from other people. I'm hoping this doesnt turn into a **** fest if someone disagrees with someone elses procedures. So please, keep negative comments to yourself but share constructive criticism.

Nothing specific, ill start, even with me being embarrassed a bit about it. On with the pictures

Im a very begginer welder/fab person. I took metals in high school then dropped my motivation to continue it as a hobby, and maybe one day a career. I just started back up a few weeks ago and this was one of my first "projects".

Just a little square i made one day for practice:

This one had a large hole in the corner of it, and was one of the worse welds i did on the whole thing.

I never cleaned the welds either... oops.

I know not the greatest, but i dont plan on anything structural till i get a better welding unit so i figure its ok for now.

Now the welder i used, and you guys will hate me for this but...... It's a harbor freight http://www.harborfreight.com/welding/mig-flux-welders/90-amp-flux-wire-welder-98871.html

I have had it for about 4 or 5 years now. Using fluxcore wire... and its on about a 75 foot extension cord... I know i know it could change but it seems to be ok for now.

I use my HF 41/2 angle grinder to cut up the metal. Btw any suggestions on cutting and grinding disks?

Thanks for looking, post up your welding projects and gear.

 

[thomastheschoolie]

Can’t go wrong with a stick welder.

 

[bigmaq]

Here's another of my older welding projects:

I have a 2002 model Toro Wheel Horse 522xi, which is a small, but heavy-duty garden tractor. It's been going strong since I bought it in 2008, and it will be ready for some cosmetic updating soon.

One of the things I use Wheel Horse for is repositioning our flat-bed trailer on our property. I fabricated a trailer hitch receiver (see below) that bolts onto the back of the tractor and is easily removable, although I haven't had occasion to remove it yet.





I should add that the trailer I move with the tractor does not put much tongue weight on the hitch.

My standard disclaimer: I do not guarantee the safety, efficacy, or applicability of any of my designs or ideas that I have described here in this thread. Any use of my designs or ideas is entirely at your own risk.

Very nice fab; looks commercially-made. How did you get that crisp corner from the top plate to the side plates? Was that bent or welded from three pieces then ground/chamfered?

 

[Blue Chips]

Very nice fab; looks commercially-made. How did you get that crisp corner from the top plate to the side plates? Was that bent or welded from three pieces then ground/chamfered?

Thank you. It's just welded on both sides of the seam(s) and then ground by hand with a 4-1/2" angle grinder, which is one of my most-used tools. It's a common approach that I've used for making clean corners and edges on many projects, such as this one: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/show-us-your-welding-projects.121477/post-9950927

 

[jblnut]

Little Miss helped clean the threads after I tapped them into the rear flatbed support .....


I actually really like the "old patina" look going on but it looks out of place with the rest painted up ....


Button heads for the win !! Gotta figure something out for plugging the side rails yet .....

 

[bugnut]

3 d printed end cap for the plug!

 

[WoodsTruck]

3 d printed end cap for the plug!

That's what I was just thinking when I looked at that.

 

[Old Man Roger]

I’d cut it at a 45 and weld a cap on it.

 

[jblnut]

3 d printed end cap for the plug!

Now I have a reason to buy a 3D printer and start reading that thread

That's what I was just thinking when I looked at that.

I have a few cheesy plastic inserts that would fit but eh. Something custom printed would look better ....

I’d cut it at a 45 and weld a cap on it.

To use stuff I have in hand I was thinking this as well. Cut a piece out to cover the hole and angle it so it meets the bottom of the skirt.

That brings up another question of how to mate the side skirts up to the rear skirt but that can be older Mikes problem. He'll figure something out

 

[Blue Chips]

Here's another of my past welding projects. I fabricated this fire pit/fire box from 1/4" hot-rolled steel plate. It's very heavy, to say the least. After welding and grinding, I blasted it with coal slag using my pressure washer and a grit-blasting attachment, which removed every speck of mill scale and prepped the surface for the high-temperature paint. It has stood up very well. After about 8 years, there is still no rust on the box, other than in a few scratches where I brushed against it with the mowing deck, so the box has never needed to be repainted. I do touch up the paint on the screen once every couple of years. The grate inside the box is smaller than the inner dimensions of the fire box and raised up a few inches above the firebricks that are set into the bottom of the box, which allows good air circulation down around and up through the fire. I keep a small handle with a hook stashed under the fire box for lifting the screen off. I was going to weld a handle onto the screen, but I decided that I wanted to keep the clean lines uncluttered.





It gets used year around, even in the winter. Photo below, just getting a fire started while having a hot drink (buttered rum, if I recall) on a winter solstice evening.



Cheers!

 

[Monza Harry]

I’d cut it at a 45 and weld a cap on it.

I dia similar mod on my ongoing trailer project. But instead of a plain cap it is a perfect spot from a clearance light one light does a rear and side light. Harry Sorry for the crappy pic.

 

[phred]

Finally whipped up a stand for my new to me shear, press brake, slip roll combo.

 

[LG63]

Here's another of my past welding projects. I fabricated this fire pit/fire box from 1/4" hot-rolled steel plate. It's very heavy, to say the least. After welding and grinding, I blasted it with coal slag using my pressure washer and a grit-blasting attachment, which removed every speck of mill scale and prepped the surface for the high-temperature paint. It has stood up very well. After about 8 years, there is still no rust on the box, other than in a few scratches where I brushed against it with the mowing deck, so the box has never needed to be repainted. I do touch up the paint on the screen once every couple of years. The grate inside the box is smaller than the inner dimensions of the fire box and raised up a few inches above the firebricks that are set into the bottom of the box, which allows good air circulation down around and up through the fire. I keep a small handle with a hook stashed under the fire box for lifting the screen off. I was going to weld a handle onto the screen, but I decided that I wanted to keep the clean lines uncluttered.





It gets used year around, even in the winter. Photo below, just getting a fire started while having a hot drink (buttered rum, if I recall) on a winter solstice evening.



Cheers!

Very nice. More details on the pressure washer grit blasting attachment please. Looking for alternatives to flap wheel.