Show your new tool arrivals

[gleman]

Seems like a waste of a drawer!

Not if you're an advertiser!

 

[AJHD]

Not if you're an advertiser!

Or a manufacture trying to sell more and larger tool boxes (ie. Snap On).

 

[atikovi]

Wheel bearing hub removal tool. Saw the South Main Auto video using the OG Lisle tool a few days ago,

and found that Chinese knockoff on Amazon for $49, or half the Lisle price. Only do a wheel bearing maybe once a year, if that often, but better to have a tool and not need it, then.......

Also have this LTI Hub Shocker which still took over 2 hours to get a hub off,



after which I picked up the Astro Last Chance tool featured on SMA too,



I'm set for any wheel hub removal challenge now.

 

[Etchase]

Sloppy seconds on my first Urrea tool box for $15. I’m very happy with the powder coat and sturdiness. It will hold a 1/2 inch drive set and some odds and ends.

 

[rharman]

I'm glad I did.






It was quite a fight but easier than expected.

That's actually in a lot better shape than one I took out. I got behind in my replacement schedule for the original rod - maybe at the 3 or 3-1/2 year point - and pulled out just the wire core. That was an eye-opener!

 

[Squankum]

I'm glad I did.






It was quite a fight but easier than expected.

Did you use an impact gun? When I did mine I was so glad I had a gun, rather than having to wrestle a water heater while tugging on a breaker bar.

 

[D.F.B]

Hammer, hacksaw and adjustable in one drawer?!

Seems like a waste of a drawer!

That's because it is... organization should not come with diminishing results.

But to each their own.

All correct on that one. Forgive me, I'm only new to buying tools, and organising them correctly. That drawer was my original attempt, rest assured it won't be staying like that for long! We all start somewhere, and this was me learning.

Not if you're an advertiser!

I really hope that I haven't come across that way, certainly not attempting to sell anything, just sharing my experiences.

 

[jonshonda]

Set up a sanding disc on one and a cut off wheel on the other so you don’t have to swap out discs all the time…

I have like 8 or 9 grinders - 3 of them are cordless and I use them more often

I have 4 grinders, picked them up on FB mrktplc when they come up cheap, but honestly would like 6 total. Grinding disc, flap wheel, cutoff, knotted cup, knotted wheel, wire cup.

I would love cordless as the angle grinder is one of the tools I always seem to get into cord fight with. Even though I always replace the cords with nice long 10ft whips, they still find a way to get into my business.

 

[f121]

All correct on that one. Forgive me, I'm only new to buying tools, and organising them correctly. That drawer was my original attempt, rest assured it won't be staying like that for long! We all start somewhere, and this was me learning.



I really hope that I haven't come across that way, certainly not attempting to sell anything, just sharing my experiences.

Organisation is super personal, gotta do what works for you

 

[lund]

Wheel bearing hub removal tool. Saw the South Main Auto video using the OG Lisle tool a few days ago,

and found that Chinese knockoff on Amazon for $49, or half the Lisle price. Only do a wheel bearing maybe once a year, if that often, but better to have a tool and not need it, then.......

Also have this LTI Hub Shocker which still took over 2 hours to get a hub off,



after which I picked up the Astro Last Chance tool featured on SMA too,



I'm set for any wheel hub removal challenge now.

Wheel bearing hub removal tool. Saw the South Main Auto video using the OG Lisle tool a few days ago,

and found that Chinese knockoff on Amazon for $49, or half the Lisle price. Only do a wheel bearing maybe once a year, if that often, but better to have a tool and not need it, then.......

Also have this LTI Hub Shocker which still took over 2 hours to get a hub off,



after which I picked up the Astro Last Chance tool featured on SMA too,



I'm set for any wheel hub removal challenge now.

I have the same. I live in the rust belt (Michigan) and Subaru's are notorious for corrosion welding wheel bearing surfaces. Access is hard and it is a terror to get off. The hub shockers work well (surprised it took that long ... but it feels unsettling belting assemblies with a 5 lb sledge). But after seeing the Astro "Last Word" I got that too after all the trauma with the issues. Before I got the hub shocker, I failed with: soaking in penetrant for days, heat/ice (removing bearing anyway ...), shocking with custom ground extensions and a sledge (bent 1" steel rods), air hammer, ... It was surreal. I am also fairly resourceful with finding ways and I felt totally defeated getting a simple bearing off. I was about to take the whole suspension apart to hydrolic press before I tried the shocker (yea!).

For the life of me I cannot understand why the manufacturer (Subaru) does not spray on antisieze in the factory. It would take a fraction of a penny and second to do. I guess the attitude is as cheap as possible and who cares after the warranty expires and the bearings should last the warranty period. The average car lasts a few hundred k and probably has ~2 bearing replacements. So they know this is going to happen and they sell these as snow cars which will have salt exposure ....

Before I lived many years in California and I had no idea how much harder suspension work would become when I moved to Michigan. Rust really complicates matters. But you quickly build up a set of tricks and become less adverse to cutting things off when you have access. I still am lost on what to do to stop rust problems. I power wash the bottom 2x in the spring. That only slows it down. Paint is hopeless once it starts. I also coat *everything* with antisieze whenever I do work and that helps a LOT in the future on any repeat work. But it makes a god awful mess. Antiseize find a way to get on *everything* when you use a lot of it.

 

[signcrafter]

I'm set for any wheel hub removal challenge now

Don't forget big nasty for when you need to rattle a hub to convince it to come out.

That lisle is on my list to get too. It's nice to have options when you run into a stubborn one. Also put a lisle yoke puller on my list after having to do a carrier bearing on a driveshaft last week.

 

[Lowlevel2021]

Couple items came in the mail today. Forgot I even ordered as they were on back order.

 

[M635_Guy]

Tools to upgrade my vlogging

 

[gleman]

That's actually in a lot better shape than one I took out. I got behind in my replacement schedule for the original rod - maybe at the 3 or 3-1/2 year point - and pulled out just the wire core. That was an eye-opener!

I've been lucky with naturally soft well water here. I think that's 8 years of seasonal use.

Did you use an impact gun? When I did mine I was so glad I had a gun, rather than having to wrestle a water heater while tugging on a breaker bar.

I tried to pull it with a 18" breaker bar and got too worried about the copper pipes before I gave it the full beans.

I ended up using a Hitachi driver and it got the job done after about five seconds of hammering.

 

[gleman]

I really hope that I haven't come across that way, certainly not attempting to sell anything, just sharing my experiences.

Nah, I'm just jaded by Instagram. I really like your dog and floor!

 

[Jeff]

Couple items came in the mail today. Forgot I even ordered as they were on back order.

I'm not a pro, but the wrench and scraper look used.

 

[Lowlevel2021]

The wrench I think was scratched up from shipping. Not sure on the scraper, but they’ll end up scratched either way from use.

 

[AJHD]

I'm not a pro, but the wrench and scraper look used.

They're not, at least from what I can see in the picture. The wrench just has superficial scratches because the chrome is so shiny.

The scraper has a carbide tip that is fitted and brazed/soldered onto the shank end. They all look that way from the factory as a result of that process.

 

[Squankum]

I have the same. I live in the rust belt (Michigan) and Subaru's are notorious for corrosion welding wheel bearing surfaces. Access is hard and it is a terror to get off. The hub shockers work well (surprised it took that long ... but it feels unsettling belting assemblies with a 5 lb sledge). But after seeing the Astro "Last Word" I got that too after all the trauma with the issues. Before I got the hub shocker, I failed with: soaking in penetrant for days, heat/ice (removing bearing anyway ...), shocking with custom ground extensions and a sledge (bent 1" steel rods), air hammer, ... It was surreal. I am also fairly resourceful with finding ways and I felt totally defeated getting a simple bearing off. I was about to take the whole suspension apart to hydrolic press before I tried the shocker (yea!).

For the life of me I cannot understand why the manufacturer (Subaru) does not spray on antisieze in the factory. It would take a fraction of a penny and second to do. I guess the attitude is as cheap as possible and who cares after the warranty expires and the bearings should last the warranty period. The average car lasts a few hundred k and probably has ~2 bearing replacements. So they know this is going to happen and they sell these as snow cars which will have salt exposure ....

Before I lived many years in California and I had no idea how much harder suspension work would become when I moved to Michigan. Rust really complicates matters. But you quickly build up a set of tricks and become less adverse to cutting things off when you have access. I still am lost on what to do to stop rust problems. I power wash the bottom 2x in the spring. That only slows it down. Paint is hopeless once it starts. I also coat *everything* with antisieze whenever I do work and that helps a LOT in the future on any repeat work. But it makes a god awful mess. Antiseize find a way to get on *everything* when you use a lot of it.

a) I didn't want to rub it in last night, but I did a wheel bearing job like that on the Durango earlier this year and it just took a couple of taps with the hammer. No salt here!

2) Subaru and all other manufacturers would like to think these wheel bearings will last "the life of the vehicle." If you disagree with them about how long that is, well, now it's your turn to pay. I sure would use antiseize on reassembly. Been out of the Rust Belt for decades now but still try to prevent future problems. (Don't need to use loooads of antiseize on such things, just...enough.)


iii) For the rest of the underbody, are you aware of Fluid Film and other lanolin solutions?

 

[Squankum]

I've been lucky with naturally soft well water here. I think that's 8 years of seasonal use.


I tried to pull it with a 18" breaker bar and got too worried about the copper pipes before I gave it the full beans.

I ended up using a Hitachi driver and it got the job done after about five seconds of hammering.

I like the HF "Braun" LED light and French knife there!

 

[gleman]

I like the HF "Braun" LED light and French knife there!

It'll always be the seventies shaver to me! It's been a really good flashlight.

I replaced my Case pocket knives with two of them and couldn't be happier.

I never ***** around in my pockets anymore thinking I lost one.

I couldn't care less if I lost one, so they seem to stick around like glue.

It takes 5 seconds to put an edge on them.

 

[lund]

a) I didn't want to rub it in last night, but I did a wheel bearing job like that on the Durango earlier this year and it just took a couple of taps with the hammer. No salt here!

2) Subaru and all other manufacturers would like to think these wheel bearings will last "the life of the vehicle." If you disagree with them about how long that is, well, now it's your turn to pay. I sure would use antiseize on reassembly. Been out of the Rust Belt for decades now but still try to prevent future problems. (Don't need to use loooads of antiseize on such things, just...enough.)


iii) For the rest of the underbody, are you aware of Fluid Film and other lanolin solutions?

I recall removing bearings etc in cali with a few light hammer taps. Those days are gone for me in michigan.

I agree a minimal amount of antisieze gets most of the effect and reduces the mess. I overdo it, but michigan is unbelievably bad. I put it on bolt shanks since even those get rotted here.

Yes, I read about lanolin and fluid film and may try it. The trouble now is both my cars have enough rust that I doubt it helps without major prep work. I will try it next new car or if I sandblast and paint the bottoms on my old ones. One trouble in michigan is the roads have loads of git and are rough. So car bottoms get grit and rock blasted. No barrier films or paint lasts long. So coating might be biyearly or worse to really work.

 

[Squankum]

I recall removing bearings etc in cali with a few light hammer taps. Those days are gone for me in michigan.

I agree a minimal amount of antisieze gets most of the effect and reduces the mess. I overdo it, but michigan is unbelievably bad. I put it on bolt shanks since even those get rotted here.

Yes, I read about lanolin and fluid film and may try it. The trouble now is both my cars have enough rust that I doubt it helps without major prep work. I will try it next new car or if I sandblast and paint the bottoms on my old ones. One trouble in michigan is the roads have loads of git and are rough. So car bottoms get grit and rock blasted. No barrier films or paint lasts long. So coating might be biyearly or worse to really work.

South Main Auto/Eric O. has a video or two about spraying it on the bottom of a pickup using a wand. He had a lift, luckily.

 

[lund]

South Main Auto/Eric O. has a video or two about spraying it on the bottom of a pickup using a wand. He had a lift, luckily.

I saw. It is informative. But I think the main issue is getting loose paint and surface and pit rust off before spraying. That part is not easy. I am not sure it would help much without prep. It may make best sense to treat regularly from new if you want a car to live long in the rust belt.

 

[Squankum]

I saw. It is informative. But I think the main issue is getting loose paint and surface and pit rust off before spraying. That part is not easy. I am not sure it would help much without prep. It may make best sense to treat regularly from new if you want a car to live long in the rust belt.

IMHO, slathering grease on top of a rusty surface is a good way to stop that rust from rusting. But I don't live in the Rust Belt so I'm no expert.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

IMHO, slathering grease on top of a rusty surface is a good way to stop that rust from rusting. But I don't live in the Rust Belt so I'm no expert.

It'll help so long as you can keep the air out.

It's all just a numbers/time game. When I grind a caliper bracket back to clean metal, it 100% isn't a permanent fix. It just need to last the life of the brake job. Pads should be worn out before they're frozen again. That's the goal anyways. Even with fluid film, grease, etc you cannot "win". Only delay the inevitable.

 

[lund]

It'll help so long as you can keep the air out.

It's all just a numbers/time game. When I grind a caliper bracket back to clean metal, it 100% isn't a permanent fix. It just need to last the life of the brake job. Pads should be worn out before they're frozen again. That's the goal anyways. Even with fluid film, grease, etc you cannot "win". Only delay the inevitable.

Light uniform surface rust can even protect the metal under. The problem is the layer is nonuniform (pit rust) and locks in more moisture. Once this happens, coating over it does not help and the corrosion continues underneath. I doubt coating a grease film over thick rust will do much of anything other than make a mess. Thicker rust also flakes on minor impacts and vibration and takes off surface coatings. In bolts, the corrosion also alters torque making it nonuniform leading to failure of seals on flanges etc. It is best to prevent corrosion from a clean baseline. But that requires a lot of regular preventive work in the rust belt. When I lived in California, I kept a Civic 18 years and a few 200k miles with almost zero rust outside of the exhaust manifold. After 5 more years in Michigan it was a mess. The older paint (brittle) may have chipped quicker on the older car and I did not reseal right away.

Roads in the rust belt are not far off an ocean marine environment. If you have a newer car and want it to last long, start prevention early and do not expect it to be low labor to do so. There is a learning curve to working with rusty stuff. It is doable. But unfortunately, it also makes working on stuff much harder.

 

[setfocus]

Been awhile since I spent any big money on tools, so I decided to purchase something that's been on the wish list for awhile

CP 717 .498 air hammer made in Japan
GP bit set and a quick change retaining chuck that's still on the way

Now I just need a rusty POS to try it out on. Not that I've never borrowed/used a .498 hammer before, but this one's mine

 

[WWheeler]

New to me today: Lisle - 31920 O-Ring Remover Tool Set
$21 - One of Lisle's 'Made in China' tools, that seems to be close match to the backordered $66 - Snap-on Seal Removal Tool Set. I picked these up as I really liked the Lisle 82130 Hose Spoon set I got last week that seems to be pretty close to the Snap-on SGA102BR Wide-Tip Radiator Hose Pick Set. I suspect just like with that hose pick set I'm likewise going to feel more comfortable using this o-ring set. I'm too often really needing to save and reuse the orings/seals that I have to remove and those pointy picks that I've always used can too easily ruin that plan even when I'm trying to be as careful as I can.

 

[MWEric]

Picked up some Canadian Gray goodness from Zoro, on sale, thanks to a tip from
CV Cody. Also scored the black ratchet from eBay.

 

[Hytekrednek]

I think I’d also feel bad about his jack finally taking a dump while I’ve been using it all the time. Anytime I borrow something (which is rare) and it breaks, I replace it for them. Maybe that’s just me? To each their own.

I was going to post the same thing. He was nice enough to loan it to you for a long time. the least you can do is replace it after you broke it.

Also, seal kits are usually available for most jacks, that is what usually goes out in them.

 

[Mr. Roboto]

Wheel bearing hub removal tool. Saw the South Main Auto video using the OG Lisle tool a few days ago,

and found that Chinese knockoff on Amazon for $49, or half the Lisle price. Only do a wheel bearing maybe once a year, if that often, but better to have a tool and not need it, then.......

Also have this LTI Hub Shocker which still took over 2 hours to get a hub off,



after which I picked up the Astro Last Chance tool featured on SMA too,



I'm set for any wheel hub removal challenge now.

I’ve been considering upping my arsenal for dealing with wheel bearings as well. Just had this monster roll into my shop last week!!



I’m just going to replace the whole knuckle for them, with new ball joints, outer tie rods etc… there wasn’t even much left to the bolt heads to even get the hub unbolted, but I deal with my share of rusted in wheel bearings up here.

Grabbed 2 of these for that job. And, the small strippers to compliment my other set of Kleins.

 

[Chrome Vanadium Cody]

Picked up some Canadian Gray goodness from Zoro, on sale, thanks to a tip from
CV Cody. Also scored the black ratchet from eBay.

Sweet, hope you like em! I’m doing a good job avoiding temptation on the ratchets but those plier wrenches in my favorite color for a good chunk cheaper than Knipex are really calling to me.

 

[saltwater4life]

Pretty sure it’s all the quick release tekton ratchets other than 3/4 in drive

 

[WWheeler]

Pretty sure it’s all the quick release Felton ratchets other than 3/4 in drive

What is a 'Felton' ratchet? Never heard of that brand before and Google serves up nada.

 

[saltwater4life]

What is a 'Felton' ratchet? Never heard of that brand before and Google serves up nada.

Typo, meant tekton

 

[four.cycle]

a discussion about the price of brass brushes came up in the vise thread earlier.
Dollar Tree: 3 for $1.25 but only one brass brush - one steel and one plastic bristle also.
ACE Hardware: 3 for $4.99 - has an odd "end brush" thingie which looks like it might be handy.
haven't checked Harbor Freight yet.

 

[rharman]

< snip >



< /snip >

My Gawd! Looks like it came off the Titanic...

 

[mikeinri]

I’ve been considering upping my arsenal for dealing with wheel bearings as well. Just had this monster roll into my shop last week!!



I’m just going to replace the whole knuckle for them, with new ball joints, outer tie rods etc… there wasn’t even much left to the bolt heads to even get the hub unbolted, but I deal with my share of rusted in wheel bearings up here.

Grabbed 2 of these for that job. And, the small strippers to compliment my other set of Kleins.

I discovered fully loaded knuckles myself this year. I started a DIY brake job on my Explorer, one of the rear e-brake backing plates rotted through. To replace that, you have to remove the knuckle, and press out the bearing (there are no 2-piece replacement backing plates that I could find). Not remotely worth the effort...

Mike

 

[Catcher1984]

a discussion about the price of brass brushes came up in the vise thread earlier.
Dollar Tree: 3 for $1.25 but only one brass brush - one steel and one plastic bristle also.
ACE Hardware: 3 for $4.99 - has an odd "end brush" thingie which looks like it might be handy.
haven't checked Harbor Freight yet.

The magnolia ones from harry epstein are so much better. The brass fill is thicker/stiffer and I think were like $1 or $2 each + USA made. I usually try to get at least 10-20 each of the steel, plastic bristles, and the brass to save on shipping.