Show your new tool arrivals

[ecotec]

I got a dual pawl kit to put in a 45170. I couldn’t get the one I planned to put it in open, so I put it in a different one.

I just wanted to try it out.

 

[ecotec]

I think that on my next Amazon order, I will add a 1/2” SK dual pawl rebuild kit.

I wish that Proto had upgrade kits for their ratchets.

 

[tamaraw]

New (to me) tool day from my local tool library's semi-annual sale



Indestro Chicago hex drive socket set
Waldes Truarc Plier No.1
Unbranded (Wiha) 5mm T-handle
Bonney USA 11/32 1/4" drive socket
Thorsen USA 9mm 3/8" drive socket
Craftsman short 1/4" square spinner handle
Proto 9652 Stubby
Unbranded Stubby
Xclite pocket screwdriver
Craftsman Professional wire strippers
Workman Electronics 33-476 wire holder/puller
Wiha Germany precision PH1
Craftsman Professional chisel
Bent chisel with same handle as the Craftsman, stamped "MOUN*" inside an oval near the tip, the last character is illegible


Close-up of the Indestro set, it includes 1/4", 5/16" 11/32", 3/8", and 7/16" in hex as well as sockets for 1/4" square and conical knurled nuts. The holder is stamped "Pat. Pend.", so this would most likely be a 1935 or 1936 model according to alloy artifacts.



And a good 10lbs of assorted wrenches, Mostly Plomb/MAC/Cornwell in inch sizes. I don't currently own anything non-metric besides maybe some furniture, so no idea why I did this. Really not looking forward to cleaning and polishing every single one.

 

[Monte]

 

[Etchase]

I didn’t investigate this carefully enough before ordering. It is a locking wobble which I didn’t want. Oh well. This particular handle isn’t for me. Anyone make just a wobble in 3/8?

 

[neophyte]

New (to me) tool day from my local tool library's semi-annual sale



Indestro Chicago hex drive socket set
Waldes Truarc Plier No.1
Unbranded (Wiha) 5mm T-handle
Bonney USA 11/32 1/4" drive socket
Thorsen USA 9mm 3/8" drive socket
Craftsman short 1/4" square spinner handle
Proto 9652 Stubby
Unbranded Stubby
Xclite pocket screwdriver
Craftsman Professional wire strippers
Workman Electronics 33-476 wire holder/puller
Wiha Germany precision PH1
Craftsman Professional chisel
Bent chisel with same handle as the Craftsman, stamped "MOUN*" inside an oval near the tip, the last character is illegible


Close-up of the Indestro set, it includes 1/4", 5/16" 11/32", 3/8", and 7/16" in hex as well as sockets for 1/4" square and conical knurled nuts. The holder is stamped "Pat. Pend.", so this would most likely be a 1935 or 1936 model according to alloy artifacts.



And a good 10lbs of assorted wrenches, Mostly Plomb/MAC/Cornwell in inch sizes. I don't currently own anything non-metric besides maybe some furniture, so no idea why I did this. Really not looking forward to cleaning and polishing every single one.

Your bent chisel looks similar to a typical upholsterer’s ripping chisel.
C.S. Osbourne still manufactures a similar chisel.

There are also “Dog Leg” carving chisels that are similar. These would likely be hardened more than a ripping chisel.

There is a manufacturer called “Mound Tool” that now specializes in butcher tools, but which used to make tools like bearing scrapers, and maybe other products.
No clue if they could be the manufacturer, or if the “chisel” was modified from something else.

 

[tamaraw]

Your bent chisel looks similar to a typical upholsterer’s ripping chisel.
C.S. Osbourne still manufactures a similar chisel.

There are also “Dog Leg” carving chisels that are similar. These would likely be hardened more than a ripping chisel.

There is a manufacturer called “Mound Tool” that now specializes in butcher tools, but which used to make tools like bearing scrapers, and maybe other products.
No clue if they could be the manufacturer, or if the “chisel” was modified from something else.

Thanks for the insight!

The tip is very dull and appears to have been reshaped. I assumed chisel or scraper because the handle is the same as the Craftsman one, but it could easily be a modified pry tool or something else as well.

 

[tamaraw]

I didn’t investigate this carefully enough before ordering. It is a locking wobble which I didn’t want. Oh well. This particular handle isn’t for me. Anyone make just a wobble in 3/8?

A lot of the spinner handles that I can think of are either straight or wobble-fix like that one.

If you can't find a pre-made one, you could get a wobble-only extension with a constant diameter (ex: Proto, SK) and press it into a handle like so: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/homemade-tools.68451/post-10201154

 

[Skyman]

 

[Ohio Andy]

Love it, that's a great set

 

[BmwTechZiggy]

Makes sense at those prices!! It is odd how hard it is to find specific boots now though. But I guess most anything with the right size/volume should work. It is messy cleaning and preparing the old joints though. Seems we have mostly evolved to a throw away society where even fairly significant assemblies do not often get repaired and get replaced as a module. It is good at least *somebody* is doing the right thing!!

eh its fairly easy if you know where to look. ive also rebooted things on cars with discontinued axles etc its just a bit of a hunt/measurement exercise, id rather replace axles all day long but seems like a lot are cheap **** these days.

 

[Lowlevel2021]

Angled crimpers and magnetic drain plug remover.

 

[RichRiddle]

From an auction, the Baldor 1/2 hp grinder that sold far too inexpensively..





Arriving in the mail, a set of Bondhus Hex SAE T-Handle

 

[lund]

eh its fairly easy if you know where to look. ive also rebooted things on cars with discontinued axles etc its just a bit of a hunt/measurement exercise, id rather replace axles all day long but seems like a lot are cheap **** these days.

Agree. It is a messy job to rebuild them. But if you catch them before the boots tear and they get grit in them to grind the bearings etc away, they seem to rebuild pretty well. Most OEM ones seem dramatically better than the cheapo ones from RockAuto etc. The cheap ones generally look good superficially to me, but when you put calipers on them it seems more are often a bit out of spec for seals resulting in leaks and vibration, and they seem to suffer from use of cheaper materials and just do not last very long. Then (me at least here) one thinks they are ok since they are relatively low mileage, yet the boots etc go very quickly and can be easily missed when first failing since you do not expect it to happen.

By the way .. I wanted to rebuild and reboot some 2014 Subaru Forester front drive axles. I could no longer find boots other than very expensive OEM orders after some searching and gave up since you can buy new cheaper axles for about $45 - $65 so it made little sense to order two $30+ boots per cv axle.

 

[lund]

Agree. It is a messy job to rebuild them. But if you catch them before the boots tear and they get grit in them to grind the bearings etc away, they seem to rebuild pretty well. Most OEM ones seem dramatically better than the cheapo ones from RockAuto etc. The cheap ones generally look good superficially to me, but when you put calipers on them it seems more are often a bit out of spec for seals resulting in leaks and vibration, and they seem to suffer from use of cheaper materials and just do not last very long. Then (me at least here) one thinks they are ok since they are relatively low mileage, yet the boots etc go very quickly and can be easily missed when first failing since you do not expect it to happen.

By the way .. I wanted to rebuild and reboot some 2014 Subaru Forester front drive axles. I could no longer find boots other than very expensive OEM orders after some searching and gave up since you can buy new cheaper axles for about $45 - $65 so it made little sense to order two $30+ boots per cv axle. If anyone knows where to get Dorman type boots and clips that used to be so common at a reasonable price, please let me know!!

 

[JRPAviator]

Finally pulled the trigger on the SK trim clip tools.

Where did you find the one with the adjustable end! Been looking for it for ages!!!

 

[Ultradog MN]

From an auction, the Baldor 1/2 hp grinder that sold far too inexpensively..





Arriving in the mail, a set of Bondhus Hex SAE T-Handle

Dig the Baldor grinder.
Been looking for one to put these on.
They're also from an auction.

 

[ThePostman]

My Wright warranty experience, I forget what the make was, maybe Nissan, they're goofy compared to most of the Japanese, inner tie rod, I definitely pushed this well beyond what it was made to do trying to loosen a seized jamb nut and had it wedged against the control arm. Sent them a photo, they said hey, you'll get one once they're made. I guess satin was the first run, and rightfully so oddball 11mm will be the ******* child amongst the shiny chrome. At least I got a free wrench.

 

[ETJ]

Martin *******




And from ebay Germany: Dowidat body hammer

 

[AJHD]

I've been buying a lot of tools lately. I wanted some retaining/snap ring pliers.
I've had the Snap On version in the past and while I have no complaints, I wanted something different this time around.

I opted for the 6 piece Knipex set. I can always add individual pliers to the set as needed, but for now these should suffice.

 

[Buster21]

Where did you find the one with the adjustable end! Been looking for it for ages!!!

I have been looking for a long time to, I just happened to see the set available at JB Tools.

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

That is money well spent.

Also, metric sure does love multiple pitches.

 

[Meursault74]

For working on my bikes. For years I used a metal ruler to check my chains. Finally broke down and got a Park Chain checker. My Eyes and neck made checking it a hassle last time. Good thing ruler said it was ok and so did the chain checker. Chain checker is faster, and my eyes aren't getting better. Park Gear brush. Big improvement over using a stiff paint brush I have and a plastic putty knife I have.

I bought that 1/4 drive click type torque wrench from Amazon. I've have and use the beam type for bottom bracket, cranks, cassette lock ring. The rest I've always done the smaller bits by feel. I blame this site for me buying that little torque wrench. It wasn't much $~17, and I likely won't use it much. I'll have to print out a torque spec sheet for the small components and keep it handy, otherwise I may never use it. I know what a binder bolt should feel like, but I don't know the numerical value.

 

[Snakevz]

Bought this small SDS drill mostly for overhead work and drilling up to 8mm. Along with it i bought charger and three baterries for start in this system, small 1/4 hex impact i also wanted was sold out in three stores i went to this evening... I hope I'll have better luck next time

 

[Etchase]

$5 from Temu. Good for scrapping grease and dirt. The case is actually pretty nice. How cheap can I get. My dentist always forgets to save his throw aways, so I’m forced to buy them

 

[M635_Guy]

I finally got to do some stuff outside the new-but-old house, but I managed to do something stupid and blunt the blade of my M12 Hatchet. So I got this:



Have to say it made a HUGE difference and was very easy to use. I've seen a lot of chainsaw sharpening contraptions, and everything seems to fall into the gimmicky, expensive or both categories. This thing is simple and pretty fast to use. This will work on the new EGO 16" chainsaw, and I have a 1/4" pitch version on the way for my pole saw (also EGO , which also saw a bunch of use on Sunday).

 

[Skyman]

 

[mikeinri]

Lisle radiator picks with the flat ends, Lisle test light ground, and 2 new to me Vise Grips from eBay. The specialty one has a Schrader valve on it. No clue what it could be for.

I love the contraptions Lisle comes up with!

Thrift shop deep fryer for dying small plastic parts. Between my cookie sheets for oil drips, cake pans for brake part rebuilds, Pyrex for clean hydraulic fluid and repairs, toaster oven for warming shrink fit parts, and scale for mixing paint, I almost have a complete (toxic) kitchen in the garage!

Cool! Dying plastic parts???

Tools of-a-sort:


I'm going to do some pole-sawing at the new house and want to (try to) make sure I don't drop anything on the fence or other spots I don't want to...

(I'm definitely NOT putting my rear end in a tree...)

I usually rent one of these for stuff I can't easily reach from the ground:

What's the jack for?


Mike

 

[M635_Guy]

I usually rent one of these for stuff I can't easily reach from the ground:



Mike

Once it's that kind of thing I'm bringing in the pros - hell, the haulaway is almost worth the $$.

They just dropped the tree in front of my house (pretty big one) for $1220 plus another $220 to grind the stump. The smaller tree I'm going at was quoted for $660, and I probably should have done that, but money is a little tight...




The grinder was pretty impressive - looked like something from a postapocalyptic movie, and only left this:

 

[RichRiddle]

A No Cry screw gun arrived in the mail....

 

[Meursault74]

A No Cry screw gun arrived in the mail....

as far as I know, you're halfway there

 

[Semi-hole mechanic]

as far as I know, you're halfway there

I was singing this when I was reading RichRiddle’s post also. LOL Now I have an earworm.

 

[NoahG]

Most of what I picked up on my recent trip to Japan. More details in the Japan thread.

 

[mikeinri]

Once it's that kind of thing I'm bringing in the pros - hell, the haulaway is almost worth the $$.

They just dropped the tree in front of my house (pretty big one) for $1220 plus another $220 to grind the stump. The smaller tree I'm going at was quoted for $660, and I probably should have done that, but money is a little tight...




The grinder was pretty impressive - looked like something from a postapocalyptic movie, and only left this:

I burn everything here, so disposal is easy. Renting one of those lifts is less than half the cost of dropping one tree.

Having said that, I draw the line at anything close enough to damage the house.

Mike

 

[Skyman]

What's the jack for?


Mike

It's a replacement for the ram on an engine hoist that was recently given to me by a friend. The original was leaking and its piston was rusted.

Actually, this one is a replacement for the first replacement, which was leaking before I even got it fully unwrapped and out of the box. Hoping this one will not be similarly incontinent.

 

[SteadyC]

Puller. Handle is cocked. The rest of the tool is ok.

 

[mikeinri]

It's a replacement for the ram on an engine hoist that was recently given to me by a friend. The original was leaking and its piston was rusted.

Actually, this one is a replacement for the first replacement, which was leaking before I even got it fully unwrapped and out of the box. Hoping this one will not be similarly incontinent.

I had a hunch. ***** that they keep leaking.

Mike

 

[Skyman]

I had a hunch. ***** that they keep leaking.

Mike

That the original leaked came as no great surprise, given its age and the rust on its piston. I suppose it was no great surprise that the replacement leaked in the box, either, given its COO.

 

[MWEric]

First order from Cat, maybe only one. Their website ***** for finding tools. But anyway $250 shipped to my house.

 

[M635_Guy]

I burn everything here, so disposal is easy. Renting one of those lifts is less than half the cost of dropping one tree.

Having said that, I draw the line at anything close enough to damage the house.

Mike

It looked like renting the most basic version around here was over $500. In that case, I was protecting the two Japanese Cypress trees, which was a nice bit of skill by the guys dropping the tree. No chance I would have been able to handle that sucker (and it was an easy 65' tall...). I try to avoid the really brutal lessons