CHI_Tool&Die
Well-known member
Locksmith would make for a really cool and unique tool box tour. I don’t even know what tools are like the gold standard for locksmiths.
Show your new tool arrivals
- Thread starter sarel.wagner
- Start date
KnurledNut
Well-known member
Bro...
I could have used that this week.PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I have a vintage 1999 Baldwin Lock rekey kit. It's updated less than 20 locks...
!!
What's that tool at the top called? My parents have one, but I'd never seen another. It used to be crazy useful before the edges got dull. Have you ever sharpened it? The one my parents have has a wavy edge, so I'm not sure how you'd go about it.
I think they are called weed cutters with a lot of nicknames possible too (manual weed wacker, sling blade, etc). They work well when the blade is sharp.
The blades are consumable and you can buy replacements for relatively cheap. But they are just steel with an edge (usually serrated to cut better), so you could use a smaller diamond file rod (or something similar) and sharpen it if you wanted to. It would take some time but can work if you are patient.
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Beerhippie
Well-known member
That's the original Weed Whacker--actually the brand name when I bought them. There was another version that looked more like a golf club. We'd straighten those out for battle with blackberry thickets.
Sharpen with a flat ******* file from the top--it'll keep the blade profile pretty much the same.
Dave455
Well-known member
I’m not a big expert on BSA’s, but it’s not only likely, but absolutely guaranteed, that BSA used cycle threads all over the things!Oh, just when I thought I have all possible wrench sizes now.
Actually I think this BSA was originally destined for the Italian market from the factory. I "think" British manufacturers shipped the bikes in parts and then were assembled by the dealer at the destination?
Because I see some of the screws are marked "USAG" (Italian?) and some are marked "Zimmer" (German?). They are also marked 8.8 (metric grade) and with the three radial lines that mark the SAE grade 5. They are used on frame coponents but not on the engine. They seem to have metric sized heads.
The threads are weird. I have recently bought a tap and die BSF set too. I can thread the old screws onto it (the 1/4" screw die)
I see BSF has a 55 degree angle thread. I think the UNF and UNC threads in the similar size are too different to work and would completely strip out the BSF screw?
But reading further, there is also the British Cycle Thread that has that same pitch but a 60 degree angle. That one would work very closely. Is it unlikely BSA used the British Cycle Thread on the engine screws?
From memory, what you get depends on the vintage.
Up till mid / late 50’s you will find cycle threads everywhere that a coarse thread is not needed.
From the mid / late 50’s you will start to find BSF instead. So, they were getting into BSF just as the rest of the world was getting out…. Got to love the bike industry…!
Then of course from the 60’s there was a gradual switch to Unified.
Yes, cycle threads use a 60 degree pitch so they are not compatible with BSF, even if the pitches coincide, but are comparable to Unified.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
'70s and earlier bicycles were a PITA. You had to have AT LEAST one set of hand tools for each COO, and often the grupo brands had their own sizes, too.
IRQVET
Well-known member
Original owner passed away, son was selling it. Dad even kept the original owners manual. It's in incredible shape for $200, had to drag it home. Just a well cared for saw. As his dad got older and couldn't do traditional woodworking, he started carving wood. His dad created that John Deere tractor in the picture. Wasn't included in the sale.
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SC Fly Guy
Well-known member
Wow, dad was absolutely a talented craftsman … that tractor carving is amazing. Nice saw!!Original owner passed away, son was selling it. Dad even kept the original owners manual. It's in incredible shape for $200, had to drag it home. Just a well cared for saw. As his dad got older and couldn't do traditional woodworking, he started carving wood. His dad created that John Deere tractor in the picture. Wasn't included in the sale.
afazz
Well-known member
Another old Stanley Leverlock tape for my collection; this is the only 27’ version I have seen so I couldn’t pass it up! New old stock from eBay.
If anyone has a red 25’ or orange 30’ (I’m not sure these configurations exist) I’m ready to buy!
If anyone has a red 25’ or orange 30’ (I’m not sure these configurations exist) I’m ready to buy!
IRQVET
Well-known member
All I can think about is people taking this knowledge to the grave. I have kids, wish I could teach them this stuff, but I don't even know how to do it. Generational knowledge lost- As American's, that loss of institutional knowledge is a real detriment often not discussed in the digital world IMHO.Original owner passed away, son was selling it. Dad even kept the original owners manual. It's in incredible shape for $200, had to drag it home. Just a well cared for saw. As his dad got older and couldn't do traditional woodworking, he started carving wood. His dad created that John Deere tractor in the picture. Wasn't included in the sale.
Ohio Andy
Well-known member
Do you collect other brands as well?Another old Stanley Leverlock tape for my collection; this is the only 27’ version I have seen so I couldn’t pass it up! New old stock from eBay.
If anyone has a red 25’ or orange 30’ (I’m not sure these configurations exist) I’m ready to buy!
The left is an old Lufkin 50-Ft tape measure. The one on the right is also a Lufkin but is labeled by a medical company Lilly handed out to doctors I'm sure. And the middle one. Well that one is easier to read as Justus roe and sons.
These were all in my dad's stuff that I'm finding as I'm going through them. I took them because they are cool, but realistically I have no real need for them
Skyman
Well-known member
The loss of generational knowledge disturbs me, too. There just don't seem to be many young folks who have the interest. I suppose they have myriad distractions and other things to draw their attention that simply didn't exist when we were young. I doubt it would have been any different for us if those things had been around when we were pups.
four.cycle
Well-known member
The correct term for that device is "D-ring"*, although colloquially they are called many other things.
A "sling blade" is a colloquial term for a completely different device.
That one was "customized" a bit because I'm over 6 feet tall - the standard handle that comes on that tool is much shorter. What you are seeing is a regular round-point shovel handle with the curved end cut off. It has cut miles of trail. The yellow paint is so it can be found if you momentarily lose your grip and it goes flying off into the brush.
this is how you sharpen it.
* AMES calls it a "Deluxe Weed Cutter" on their website. If you are working for the National Park Service or the U.S. Forest Service, it is a "D-ring". YMMV
The two curved pieces are just mild steel. The weak point is just below where it bolts to the handle. Repeatedly striking woody shrubs (Serviceberry, Hawthorne, Elderberry, etc.) will cause it to break at that point. In the field, it is a good idea to pack an extra pair of the curved arms, as well as spare bolts and nuts. Don't forget two 7/16" open-end wrenches! I had to walk 7 miles back down to the campground one afternoon to find somebody who had tools so I could repair mine - really limited the amount of work I got done that day.
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Mr. Roboto
Well-known member
Grabbed a set of oil filter wrenches to have on hand.
"Deluxe weed cutter" is at least useful as a search term. Google brings up dozens of brands, which is kind of exciting.The correct term for that device is "D-ring"*, although colloquially they are called many other things.
A "sling blade" is a colloquial term for a completely different device.
That one was "customized" a bit because I'm over 6 feet tall - the standard handle that comes on that tool is much shorter. What you are seeing is a regular round-point shovel handle with the curved end cut off. It has cut miles of trail. The yellow paint is so it can be found if you momentarily lose your grip and it goes flying off into the brush.
this is how you sharpen it.
* AMES calls it a "Deluxe Weed Cutter" on their website. If you are working for the National Park Service or the U.S. Forest Service, it is a "D-ring". YMMV
The two curved pieces are just mild steel. The weak point is just below where it bolts to the handle. Repeatedly striking woody shrubs (Serviceberry, Hawthorne, Elderberry, etc.) will cause it to break at that point. In the field, it is a good idea to pack an extra pair of the curved arms, as well as spare bolts and nuts. Don't forget two 7/16" open-end wrenches! I had to walk 7 miles back down to the campground one afternoon to find somebody who had tools so I could repair mine - really limited the amount of work I got done that day.
Way easier to sharpen than I'd thought.
I might dig that out of their shed next time (after the snow melts, anyway).
four.cycle
Well-known member
^ I was continually re-sharpening mine when in the field. Finally figured out that I needed to haul an extra blade, file, spare curved bars, spare 1/4" bolts and nuts, and two 7/16" open-end wrenches with me. Pack weight was right about a hundred pounds with all the gear strapped on top.
Definitely a younger man's work.
The "grass whip" (first image, second down) only made it from Coal Creek to Old Joe Creek - just a bit over a mile - before I destroyed it.
The "brush hook" (first image, third down) will lop off 2-inch diameter Red Alder with a good swing. Loppers work best for huckleberry, but it requires crawling along the trail on your knees - find the foam pads that slip into the knee pockets. Bow saw is far better than a folding model if you're working with larger cuts.
Definitely a younger man's work.
The "grass whip" (first image, second down) only made it from Coal Creek to Old Joe Creek - just a bit over a mile - before I destroyed it.
The "brush hook" (first image, third down) will lop off 2-inch diameter Red Alder with a good swing. Loppers work best for huckleberry, but it requires crawling along the trail on your knees - find the foam pads that slip into the knee pockets. Bow saw is far better than a folding model if you're working with larger cuts.
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Beerhippie
Well-known member
Your "brush whip" is what we used to straighten out for cutting into/away blackberry thickets. I spent a few years of my youth doing battle with blackberries attempting to overtake properties in the Portland, OR. The extra reach as opposed to a machete tended to keep your skin in better shape.^ I was continually re-sharpening mine when in the field. Finally figured out that I needed to haul an extra blade, file, spare curved bars, spare 1/4" bolts and nuts, and two 7/16" open-end wrenches with me. Pack weight was right about a hundred pounds with all the gear strapped on top.
Definitely a younger man's work.
The "grass whip" (first image, second down) only made it from Coal Creek to Old Joe Creek - just a bit over a mile - before I destroyed it.
The "brush hook" (first image, third down) will lop off 2-inch diameter Red Alder with a good swing. Loppers work best for huckleberry, but it requires crawling along the trail on your knees - find the foam pads that slip into the knee pockets. Bow saw is far better than a folding model if you're working with larger cuts.
"Brush hook", AKA bill hook, was incredible for just bashing through scrub. Also a medieval battle weapon.
We also often carried multiple-joint loppers that could take down trees to about 3-4 inches.
Yeah, pack-outs were heavy back then! Toss in a Homalite gear-drive saw with a 30 inch bar.....
Won't be losing those!Grabbed a set of oil filter wrenches to have on hand.
four.cycle
Well-known member
^ I was a volunteer photographer on the GPNF 1994-1995. They sent me out with a 6-foot Bogen tripod, a Hulcherama, level, light meter, and all the rest of the accoutrements that went with it. Total pack weight on my bathroom scale was 85 pounds, but that was before I filled the water bottles. Hauled it up to the tops of fire lookouts to re-shoot the 360° panoramas (replicating the original Osborne panorama shots.) Great gig. I think I was in better shape then.
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PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I wrote the financial software for Bogen... quality ****. I got around.^ I was a volunteer photographer on the GPNF 1994-1995. They sent me out with a 6-foot Bogen tripod, a Hulcherama, level, light meter, and all the rest of the accoutrements that went with it. Total pack weight on my bathroom scale was 85 pounds, but that was before I filled the water bottles. Hauled it up to the tops of fire lookouts to re-shoot the 360° panoramas (replicating the original Osborne panorama shots.) Great gig. I think I was in better shape then.
Mr. Bugnut, I would like to aks you a question...
What do Sil Glyde and a bearing packer haver to do with that job?
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The correct term for that device is "D-ring"*, although colloquially they are called many other things.
A "sling blade" is a colloquial term for a completely different device.
That one was "customized" a bit because I'm over 6 feet tall - the standard handle that comes on that tool is much shorter. What you are seeing is a regular round-point shovel handle with the curved end cut off. It has cut miles of trail. The yellow paint is so it can be found if you momentarily lose your grip and it goes flying off into the brush.
this is how you sharpen it.
* AMES calls it a "Deluxe Weed Cutter" on their website. If you are working for the National Park Service or the U.S. Forest Service, it is a "D-ring". YMMV
The two curved pieces are just mild steel. The weak point is just below where it bolts to the handle. Repeatedly striking woody shrubs (Serviceberry, Hawthorne, Elderberry, etc.) will cause it to break at that point. In the field, it is a good idea to pack an extra pair of the curved arms, as well as spare bolts and nuts. Don't forget two 7/16" open-end wrenches! I had to walk 7 miles back down to the campground one afternoon to find somebody who had tools so I could repair mine - really limited the amount of work I got done that day.
I reckon you couldn't rightly much hurt a feller with a tool like that. Mmmmm.
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KnurledNut
Well-known member
Those backhoes were sold as model kits.
Lil' Japanese coindriver, a gift for a friend of mine with a lot of photography gear.
$16.90ish, Japan.
$16.90ish, Japan.
Wow those have gone up a lot in price (but what hasn't). They used to be about $6. Their faucet driver would tend to cost a little more but still way under $10.
Edit: N/M Just noticed the link is for Amz US. I was talking about AMZ JP. They weren't available on AMZ US back when I was looking to buy them.
Ohio Andy
Well-known member
I ordered a PB Swiss version. Probably would have bought that one instead. Just cuz I like the looks and I don't think I need the extra reach of the PB Swiss....Lil' Japanese coindriver, a gift for a friend of mine with a lot of photography gear.
$16.90ish, Japan.
Same here, sort of. I've had the Top coin & faucet drivers in my Amz Jp cart for quite some time. Later I had bought the Anex power bit driver shank ones. Still wanted a stubby one & when I was ordering somethig from DPRD I added the PB Swiss one.
BTW, faucet drivers (TWD-45) & the PB Swiss t-handle I posted above are great for photography equipment (the PB Swiss more so).
A simple lone socket today.
Terra Nova
Well-known member
BF buy
M18 Top-Off inverter, 2880-20 grinder and a couple 5.0 batteries.
Never used a cordless grinder but think it’ll be handy for some small/quick jobs without having to drag out a corded unit.
M18 Top-Off inverter, 2880-20 grinder and a couple 5.0 batteries.
Never used a cordless grinder but think it’ll be handy for some small/quick jobs without having to drag out a corded unit.
Yes, really handy, especially with a cut off blade.BF buy
M18 Top-Off inverter, 2880-20 grinder and a couple 5.0 batteries.
Never used a cordless grinder but think it’ll be handy for some small/quick jobs without having to drag out a corded unit.
Congrats on the purchase.
Needed 3/8 long extension for spark plug work today,i do have one in 1/2 and 1/4 drive. All my spark plug sockets are 3/8 drive and i was using regular long extension with U joint at the end. All i could find and have it today was KS,at least its taiwan made instead of china,kinda ***** when you need something like this and you are in small rural town cuz there is not many brands to choose,its even hard to find it,only one store had it in 3/8 drive and i paid $28. Price is overkill for this taiwan thing,but it did the job.
Well, I thought I picked up a DeWalt XR reciprocating saw, it was in the slot but it turned out to be the grinder. Doh
rockinacummins
Well-known member
Estate sale about 8 miles from my house. Preview was in-person, bidding was online, pickup was in-person. My wife’s cousin owns the auction company and does a lot of these type sales. Pretty neat actually.
Got this cool grinder for $25
And these 3 DeWalt drills for $25
DW505
DW235G
DW255
Got this cool grinder for $25
And these 3 DeWalt drills for $25
DW505
DW235G
DW255
Beerhippie
Well-known member
I bought a similar Milwaukee grinder early this summer for use where pulling an extension cord was a PITA. I figured it would get occasional use around the pub property.BF buy
M18 Top-Off inverter, 2880-20 grinder and a couple 5.0 batteries.
Never used a cordless grinder but think it’ll be handy for some small/quick jobs without having to drag out a corded unit.
It's now one of my most frequently used tools.
Naaahhh. Just wait for the Icon titanium cheater pipe!
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
^^Run into him occasionally up at our summer place in the Arizona White Mountains. He has a home in the same development.