Show your new tool arrivals

[SouthernIllinois]

I'd like to know how that 3" grinder works out.

If you're looking for a 210MVP, most places have it for about $1150. Cyberweld includes the spoolgun for $1300.

Hobart Handler 210 MVP w/SpoolRunner 100 951787

Hobart Handler® 210 MVP with SpoolRunner™ 100 MIG Welding Package 951787The Hobart® Handler® 210 MVP™ MIG Welder with SpoolRunner™ 100 spool gun is a complete 210 amp MIG welding package. This portable system has the output to handle 3/8 in. thick mild steel and enough control for 24 gauge...

store.cyberweld.com

A good friend has a body shop.
He recommended both the grinder and the DA.
I'll give some feedback once I have tried it.

 

[rockinacummins]

Gas can is from a couple weeks ago, just picked up the EZ Pour spout for it today and got it installed. This is the 6th can I’ve installed these spouts on and I wouldn’t have a gas can without it or one similar. $12.99 and I can pour gas like it’s 1999.

 

[LXCam]

Guess I should flip off…..I mean thank @Achilleus He was looking for a bushing driver and ended up with one of these sets. And it looked too damn handy not to have one myself.

And yesterday while cleaning up the shop I finally unboxed these and put them where they belong

 

[Hohn]

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Guess I should flip off…..I mean thank @Achilleus He was looking for a bushing driver and ended up with one of these sets. And it looked too damn handy not to have one myself.

I added that set to my Amazon cart after seeing that post also.

 

[Achilleus]

I added that set to my Amazon cart after seeing that post also.

Blue box or red? Same for @LXCam. I only got red coz the blue was another week's wait.

 

[Semi-hole mechanic]

And the 13mm is dirty.......Ford?

Or MOPAR, use my 13mm a lot on our Jeep Liberties and my Dakota.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Blue box or red? Same for @LXCam. I only got red coz the blue was another week's wait.

Haha, Blue.....it's my color lately!

 

[sweet victory]

It's been some time since I've posted. Figured I'd share some of the tools I've picked up since I've been gone. Enjoy the tool ****.

I prefer the typical trigger design over SO's rocker style. Swapping everything to these as they're released.







This is the high torque version of the long neck.




SO's long, off set double box end ratching wrench set.



1/4" locking wobble extensions. So glad to finally have these. If you've ever done something like removing intake manifolds from a 911, the locking feature is really nice in hard to reach blind spots.



3/8 locking straight extensions.



Foamed out punch set. I don't typically jump on the foam kits since I usually already have what I need, but really liked the completeness and organization of this kit.



Lady slipper set



These impact sockets were "bogos" with the power tools above.







I ran into situation where I needed a 1/4" drive 12 point socket...and didn't have one. Can't let that happen ever again.



Also got some 3/8 drive 12 points for good measure. Need to get the semi-deeps still.





Had a project for suspension work planned, and grabbed a 1/2" drive universal impact socket set.



Another light...



I wish SO or any other domestic tool truck offered this, but Tone was the best option I could find. A 1/2" drive anvil/pawl in a 3/8 head. Very easy to find 3/8 in a 1/4" body, but not 1/2 in 3/8 body. I found myself wanting something like this after I broke a bolt loose and wanted to get the fastener out with a smaller tool.



Some goodies from DRPD. Sad to see KTC/Nepros no longer being offered in the future. Picked up the 1/4" drive torx bit socket sets...they are jewerly.



Love to see Koken offering ratchets with QD now.



And some PBSwiss goodies

 

[L.Cheapo]

I wish SO or any other domestic tool truck offered this, but Tone was the best option I could find. A 1/2" drive anvil/pawl in a 3/8 head. Very easy to find 3/8 in a 1/4" body, but not 1/2 in 3/8 body. I found myself wanting something like this after I broke a bolt loose and wanted to get the fastener out with a smaller tool.

Funny, I was just looking for this exact tool on S-Os website this weekend. No luck.

 

[sweet victory]

Funny, I was just looking for this exact tool on S-Os website this weekend. No luck.

The Tone one is pretty good and Japanese made. High tooth count, quick release, and I snagged it on Amazon for about $20. The weird handle shape is probably my only criticism of it, but can't complain for the price.

P.S. realize I forgot to add the pic of it, it's now there in my post.

 

[swsman]

The Tone one is pretty good and Japanese made. High tooth count, quick release, and I snagged it on Amazon for about $20. The weird handle shape is probably my only criticism of it, but can't complain for the price.

P.S. realize I forgot to add the pic of it, it's now there in my post.

I know you said domestic, Astro Tools has a 1/2 drive in 3/8 size with quick release, I picked it up pretty cheap last year.

Also grabbed 3/8 drive in 1/4 size long at the same time. Quick release too.
72 tooth ratchets if I am not mistaken.

 

[InsanePyro]

I already posted these elsewhere but what the heck...noticed a lack of Phillips in my "daily" toolbox so I picked these up. Never had any other SK to my knowledge...didn't need them at all today but they seem nice enough

 

[Squankum]

Yeah, I've been blessed with doing a couple Toyota/Lexus 4.7Ls and a Caddy Northstar 4.6L with starters under the intake just like that. The Toyotas have a coolant bypass pipe on the back by the firewall that needs removed that had me stumped trying to figure out what combination of tools and tactics it was going to take to get at those bolts I couldn't even see or get my fingers on. After wasting a day cussing I finally stumbled onto this <3min YT video that saved the day for me.

Ay caramba! Why must they crowd the engine against the firewall so nowadays? This is America! Make it a few inches longer, we're not parallel parking these beasts.

 

[Squankum]

$4.50 on Amazon haul a couple weeks ago. $9 now. Haul started out giving 60% discounts, which dropped to 50%, and now are gone entirely. Not really a deal anymore. I like these.

Great price! Uh... what are they?

 

[Etchase]

Great price! Uh... what are they?

They are called fuel line connector pliers. They’re pretty handy for a lot of electrical connectors as well. That’s what I use them for mostly. I wouldn’t buy them if they’re 25 or $30, but for five bucks it’s another finger saving option.

 

[hobie18]

Bought a few magnetic sockets from Zoro and Amazon over the last 4 weeks, five in 1/4" drive and one in 3/8" drive. They range in price from $6 to $11 each.
From left to right:
1/4" Proto, made in USA
9/32" Sunex, made in Taiwan
5/16" Grey Pneumatic, made in Taiwan
11/32" Sunex, made in Taiwan
3/8" Sunex, made in Taiwan
7/16" Sunex, made in China

Uh, I will be holding my breath until the 13/32 gets there.
Haha
Seriously worried about that gap.

 

[Semi-hole mechanic]

9mm has many uses. For instance... something... I know I've used one... somewhere? Oh, yeah, it's the next size above 8mm!

I actually used a 9mm the other day for a hose clamp on the wife’s Chevy Cruze. Forget which one but it was one of the few worm drives used under the hood. Maybe a worn 10mm?

 

[mikeinri]

If we all just invested in a good set of adjustable wrenches... we wouldn't need all of these ratchets and sockets... just saying.

Are you TRYING to get banned???

LOL...

Yeah, I've been blessed with doing a couple Toyota/Lexus 4.7Ls and a Caddy Northstar 4.6L with starters under the intake just like that. The Toyotas have a coolant bypass pipe on the back by the firewall that needs removed that had me stumped trying to figure out what combination of tools and tactics it was going to take to get at those bolts I couldn't even see or get my fingers on. After wasting a day cussing I finally stumbled onto this <3min YT video that saved the day for me.

What's a "swivel?" Isn't that a U-joint, LOL...

I'd probably have figured that out, eventually. I did have to use the same tools to access a mounting bolt on the starter on my 1993 Ford RV. Plenty of room under those... NOT

Mike

 

[Hohn]

Or MOPAR, use my 13mm a lot on our Jeep Liberties and my Dakota.

13mm is the standard hex size for any flange head M10. Any vehicle with M10s that follow ISO 4162 will have 13mms EVERYWHERE.

13mm is also the standard ANSI size for non flange M8s.
Only the Japanese car makers are still using the JIS standard of 10/12/14mm hexes for M6/M8/M10 respectively. (out of tradition, as JIS B 1180 is officially superceded by ISO 4017). But you can imagine how the Japanese view tradition highly.

 

[mikeinri]

Long hose to basement drain or... create suction, let flow. Works great.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure I siphoned mine, back in the day. It was a long project but once it was started, not much work.

Hell, it's easy to drain a water bed! Just hook up a hose sealed to the filler tube, throw the hose out of a window and lie down on the mattress. Self-starting siphon!

Just don't ever think it would be a good idea to put a queen-size water bed mattress in the back of a van... that was a really bad idea. There may have been psychoactive substances involved.

The first place I lived with the water bed was in a basement apartment (no floor drain or sump pump), so I had to pump it out. Fortunately, there was an old wet bar down there, so it didn't have to lift all the way upstairs.

Unfortunately, I had to empty that thing a bunch of times: Replaced the heater at least once, moved with it three times (four including the last time, but we didn't install it here due to the master bedroom being on the second floor, and I didn't want to risk damaging the ceiling below from the weight).

But, I really do miss the heat from that thing in the winter. NOT good during a power outage, bad heater, etc. of course.

Oh, and once I learned that I needed the drill pump, I never thought about just trying to siphon it (only the first place was a basement, and I always just ran the hose outside for the first-floor moves).

Mike

 

[Kasal]

Timing belt kit (PSA/Citroën). I could really use a pair of 6 and 8mm bolts. But that oddly shaped rod will save me the time of disassembling the starter motor to lock the flywheel. For less than €22, $24, including shipping, I think it's fine.

 

[Beerhippie]

I actually used a 9mm the other day for a hose clamp on the wife’s Chevy Cruze. Forget which one but it was one of the few worm drives used under the hood. Maybe a worn 10mm?

I'd forgotten about that one. I encounter Metric hose clamps on occasion, and they do seem to use the otherwise unused sizes--7, 9, 11mm.

Frustrating, as the 6-in-1 screwdriver I EDC covers all common SAE hose clamps--1/4 and 5/16".

 

[Hohn]

Ay caramba! Why must they crowd the engine against the firewall so nowadays? This is America! Make it a few inches longer, we're not parallel parking these beasts.

I had that thought more than once trying to get the top end off teh 4.6L in my GX460. There are wire harness and fuel line crossovers clipped to the back of intake manifold that are very hard to even SEE with a mirror, never mind get a tool on.

 

[four.cycle]

Tekton SHB90106 1/4" drive metric hex bit set 03/17/25

These arrived yesterday direct from Tekton. They were running them on sale so I got one for me, one for a buddy. They appear to be nicely finished. I'm sure they will serve my purposes.

The rails (patent 6092655 and 6250466) have the Ernst patent numbers molded onto them - no idea if Tekton is manufacturing them under license, or if they're outsourcing them from Ernst, but they do seem to be a fairly ingenious design.

 

[FigN⋅m]

These arrived yesterday direct from Tekton. They were running them on sale so I got one for me, one for a buddy. They appear to be nicely finished. I'm sure they will serve my purposes.

Gah!
Of course they were running some sale I didn't know about...How much were they if you don't mind?
I ended up going with an SAE/Metric Husky set for about $18 all in, but I would have preferred Tekton.

 

[L.Cheapo]

(yes, I need to upgrade the freebie multimeter; my Fluke lives in my toolbox at my workshop)

Upgrade complete.

 

[four.cycle]

Of course they were running some sale I didn't know about...How much were they if you don't mind?

$63 and change including sales tax. Shipping free on orders over $25.00

 

[Squankum]

I had that thought more than once trying to get the top end off teh 4.6L in my GX460. There are wire harness and fuel line crossovers clipped to the back of intake manifold that are very hard to even SEE with a mirror, never mind get a tool on.

I must confess that on Mrs. Bilo's pretty modern BMW X5, they just draped big wiring harnesses right across the top of the plastic valve cover -- in a U-shaped plastic trough -- and upon reassembly, it must have taken me 45 minutes to figure out how to get those two different harnesses to fit back into that very special trough just so! Maybe I was tired.

Six plugs, six coils, a valve cover/gasket -- things I know thoroughly -- and it took me 11 hours somehow. Ow, my back.

 

[four.cycle]

addendum to my above post showing the TEKTON metric hex bit sets:
the rails (included with the set) are Ernst rails - TEKTON outsources them from Ernst.
03/18/25 12:55 PDT

 

[Beerhippie]

Gleaming new keyboard, my tool for communication. Silky smooth compared to my last one, which may have had a little too much be...uh...coffee spilled into it.

Now to do something about the "gleaming" part... and modify it to fit me. I always remove the Caps Lock and Num Lock keys, as I never use them and when hit accidentally, drive me nuts. Keyboard is almost too pretty to start prying out keys, but sometimes a man's just gotta make some sacrifices.

 

[FigN⋅m]

Gleaming new keyboard, my tool for communication. Silky smooth compared to my last one, which may have had a little too much be...uh...coffee spilled into it.

Now to do something about the "gleaming" part... and modify it to fit me. I always remove the Caps Lock and Num Lock keys, as I never use them and when hit accidentally, drive me nuts. Keyboard is almost too pretty to start prying out keys, but sometimes a man's just gotta make some sacrifices.

Could always try to remap them to something you do use?

 

[Beerhippie]

Could always try to remap them to something you do use?

That takes larnin'. Poppin' 'em out takes a screwdriver.

Windows key can go, too.

It's not like I'll be reselling this thing. I use them up pretty fast.

This 'board has a passel of customizable keys I'll never use, anyway--as does the mouse. Hell, I can't remember the hotkeys and character maps for the stuff I use regularly.

 

[afazz]

I found a reliable Matco dealer for the first time in my life, and I’ve been working with him for almost a year now. I texted him to pick up a new pneumatic die grinder to try out…long story short his position is getting eliminated next week (corporate owned route and he’s not in a position to buy it) and I ended up buying every grinder he had in stock for over 60% off. And the ratchet was free; I asked if it was US made and when he confirmed that it wasn’t, he just gave it to me

So I no longer have a reliable Matco dealer but here is my disgruntled, fired Matco dealer discount haul:

*plus an eBay Snap-on crowfoot

 

[mikeinri]

Sorry to hear about your Matco friend. Great haul, though!

Mike

 

[02Xterra]

I recently dove into the world of 1/18th RC rock crawlers, and found I needed a 1.27mm allen for the beadlocks wheels I purchased.

Really only needed the metric set, but the figured I'd use the SAE at some point

 

[cody1325]

Gleaming new keyboard, my tool for communication. Silky smooth compared to my last one, which may have had a little too much be...uh...coffee spilled into it.

Now to do something about the "gleaming" part... and modify it to fit me. I always remove the Caps Lock and Num Lock keys, as I never use them and when hit accidentally, drive me nuts. Keyboard is almost too pretty to start prying out keys, but sometimes a man's just gotta make some sacrifices.

Nice! I've always had great luck out of Logitech stuff. I have a K840 as my main keyboard. Mostly had Logitech mice, but recently, I decided I'd try something different.

I recently had to change out mice. The scroll wheel was sticking, and the rubber was decomposing on the Logitech G502 Hero I'd had for 5-6 years. I kind of balked at the closest replacement (the non-HERO G502) due to price, so I chose a cheaper (less than half the price at Walmart) Razer Deathadder instead. Strangely enough, I like the cheaper mouse better. It's just the right weight (not a heavy weighted brick like the G502, and not light and flimsy like most OEM mice), and I like the normal shape as opposed to the more aggressive "stealth bomber" design of the Logitech.

Only thing I got stuck with was RGB lighting, which I felt was unnecessary and gaudy. Honestly, I'm sure I had at least one old OEM mouse with those extra two side buttons and no RGB, but they always felt lightweight and flimsy. I think there are some office mice that have extra buttons and gaming mice features, but no RGB.

 

[Skyman]

That takes larnin'. Poppin' 'em out takes a screwdriver.

Windows key can go, too.

It's not like I'll be reselling this thing. I use them up pretty fast.

This 'board has a passel of customizable keys I'll never use, anyway--as does the mouse. Hell, I can't remember the hotkeys and character maps for the stuff I use regularly.

F1 and Windoze keys are absent from every keyboard I own.

 

[FigN⋅m]

Nice! I've always had great luck out of Logitech stuff. I have a K840 as my main keyboard. Mostly had Logitech mice, but recently, I decided I'd try something different.

I recently had to change out mice. The scroll wheel was sticking, and the rubber was decomposing on the Logitech G502 Hero I'd had for 5-6 years. I kind of balked at the closest replacement (the non-HERO G502) due to price, so I chose a cheaper (less than half the price at Walmart) Razer Deathadder instead. Strangely enough, I like the cheaper mouse better. It's just the right weight (not a heavy weighted brick like the G502, and not light and flimsy like most OEM mice), and I like the normal shape as opposed to the more aggressive "stealth bomber" design of the Logitech.

Only thing I got stuck with was RGB lighting, which I felt was unnecessary and gaudy. Honestly, I'm sure I had at least one old OEM mouse with those extra two side buttons and no RGB, but they always felt lightweight and flimsy. I think there are some office mice that have extra buttons and gaming mice features, but no RGB.

Lol!
I kind of forgot we have a G502 HERO that one of our summer help high school chaps bequeathed to the shop.
Get the occasional amused customer reaction while I clunkily try to use the computer to look up vehicle fits
using Batman's Tumbler. (I'm definitely more Nuts & Bolts than Bits & Bytes...)

 

[Tools4Me]

I recently dove into the world of 1/18th RC rock crawlers, and found I needed a 1.27mm allen for the beadlocks wheels I purchased.

Really only needed the metric set, but the figured I'd use the SAE at some point

Just so you and others on GJ know, those two sets are almost identical. I say that because for 4 of the 5 sizes, the metric size is just the SAE size converted to metric labeling. There's really only 6 unique L-wrench sizes between those two sets. That's just the way the very small sizes ended up being standardized over time.

Calculations and digital vernier caliper testing of my own Bondhus mini L-wrench sets.

5/64 x 25.4 = 1.98mm (on my two sets they both caliper the same)
1/16 x 25.4 = 1.59mm (the metric set l-wrench is 1.50mm, and those two keys do not caliper the same)
.050 x 25.4 = 1.27mm (on my two sets they both caliper the same)
.035 x 25.4 = 0.89mm (on my two sets they both caliper the same)
.028 x 25.4 = 0.71mm (on my two sets they both caliper the same)