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Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,796
Location
Far NE Oregon
USB charging is only an asset because I most often camp in the RV without plugging into electricity or running the generator (which would be a waste of gas just to charge a tool battery). I have a small inverter, but insufficient onboard battery capacity to do much without the motorhome's engine running.

This silly little thing was less than $20.

I do see an RV-dedicated M12 setup in my near future...

Mike
Years ago, I ran the stereo in my Vanagon late into the night at a very remote campsite. When I woke in the morning, the battery was, of course, totally dead. The camp was in an abandoned quarry, hence at the bottom of the hill. It was at least five miles' hike to the nearest USFS road--and there wasn't much of a guarantee for any traffic there.

Fortunately, I had one of those little battery-maintainer solar panels--8" square--that plugs into the cigarette lighter port. Also fortunately, I had work I could do within walking distance of camp. By the time I got back in the evening, the battery had enough charge to start the engine and get a full charge.

When I got home from that tour, the first thing I did was install a second battery and isolater and add 4 amps of solar panels up on the roof rack. I've never had a dead battery since.

4 amps of solar would be plenty to charge a tool battery and add some charge to your battery.
 
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BobsYourUncle69

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 21, 2023
Messages
418
Location
Westchester New York
Thanks for links , I'll have a look.

Yes , rounded the key trying to remove the center cap off my tacomas wheels, I've never rounded a Key before.
I then tried to get them off with the Gedore Allen keys that arrived a couple of days ago, I still couldn't get them off, but zero damage to the Gedore allen keys applying similar force, the Husky's are just terrible.

I didn't know Husky as a brand when I landed here in October 2023, but I expected similar quality to our Equivalent to HD back in SA ,Builders warehouse, they have a brand called " Mastercraft" ,their house brand (no relation to Canada's Mastercraft ) which also has a lifetime warranty , quality is miles better though and that lifetime warranty actually leaves you with a warm fuzzy feeling.
Pics. Husky 6mm Allen key. I applied the same force to my Gedore Allenkey and I damaged the chrome finish a little but no rounding. Both are CRV.
 

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L.Cheapo

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2014
Messages
5,922
I bought my first Icon tools today. I've made it this far in life without semi-deeps, but if I don't use/need them I'm not out much. Haven't used them yet, but first impressions are good, especially at the 40% off price.


thumbnail_image2-2.jpg


New deep Icon E-20 on left, Snap On shallow E-20 on right, for comparison:

thumbnail_image1-2.jpg
 

Skyman

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 9, 2021
Messages
1,171
Location
Central Maryland
I picked up a couple sets of the Icon semi-deep sockets today. For the price, they appear to be a smoking good deal, as the quality looks to be excellent. I will say the opposite about the Quinn bent needle-nose pliers I also picked up. They are pure junk, and I would have left them in the store if the plastic packaging they were enclosed within hadn't made it impossible to detect their awfulness.
 

L.Cheapo

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2014
Messages
5,922
I picked up a couple sets of the Icon semi-deep sockets today. For the price, they appear to be a smoking good deal, as the quality looks to be excellent. I will say the opposite about the Quinn bent needle-nose pliers I also picked up. They are pure junk, and I would have left them in the store if the plastic packaging they were enclosed within hadn't made it impossible to detect their awfulness.
The one thing that bugs me about them is they stamped the size markings upside-down. I guess if that's how you put them on a socket holder, that'd work fine. But I don't...
 

silkman

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2021
Messages
367
Location
Athens
I bought my first Icon tools today. I've made it this far in life without semi-deeps, but if I don't use/need them I'm not out much. Haven't used them yet, but first impressions are good, especially at the 40% off price.


thumbnail_image2-2.jpg


New deep Icon E-20 on left, Snap On shallow E-20 on right, for comparison:

thumbnail_image1-2.jpg

Why on earth would someone need a e-torx deep socket?
 
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pfbz

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2008
Messages
957
The delivery guy just dropped this off: Wera 3/8" Locking Extension and 1/4" Locking Bit Handle KS Tools
20250817_123442.jpg
Let us know what you think of that Wera extension... I recently ordered then returned that extension. It would not reliably lock on many (most) of my 1/4" sockets. Trying to recall which, but pretty sure it didn't work at all with my snap-on sockets which was a deal breaker for me. It does, of course, work with Wera sockets.
 

pfbz

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2008
Messages
957
I picked up a Quinn digital torque wrench the other day... To put it simply, I am not a fan. I've been really impressed with some Quinn tools lately, but other stuff, not so much. This definitely fell in the "not so much" category. I freaking hated it and it is going back.

 

YesIHaveAHammer

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2025
Messages
828
Beta Scratchproof Plastic Flat Chisel Set 4pc 988/K4

Chisel, scraper, knife, sword, whatever. Surprisingly stiff (I was half expecting that I'd want to shorten them), and the tips hold up well when hammered. They're very prone to rolling away, so I'll probably file some flats on the middle rings. One of many rebrands, ARES is another of this type, and there's another type with slightly different handles.

beta.jpg
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,796
Location
Far NE Oregon
Beta Scratchproof Plastic Flat Chisel Set 4pc 988/K4

Chisel, scraper, knife, sword, whatever. Surprisingly stiff (I was half expecting that I'd want to shorten them), and the tips hold up well when hammered. They're very prone to rolling away, so I'll probably file some flats on the middle rings. One of many rebrands, ARES is another of this type, and there's another type with slightly different handles.

beta.jpg
What are you using plastic chisels for? Hammering?
 

L.Cheapo

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2014
Messages
5,922
Is the extra length smooth section to help prevent cross threading?
My understanding is its for assembly line purposes; makes it faster and easier to line up and insert the bolt than if it just had a blunt end. In this particular case, it also helps for reinserting the bolt when replacing the control arm if everything doesn't quite line up.
 

YesIHaveAHammer

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2025
Messages
828
What are you using plastic chisels for? Hammering?
They're more often called scraper chisels. They're kind of equal parts chisel, scraper, and pry bar.

The pictured use is always removing balancing weights from alloy wheels, or badges off paintwork. Reason I got them is I was going through a couple of cheap wooden spatulas from the kitchen every year for god knows what around the place. Cutting them down, sharpening them sometimes, hammering them, snapping and splitting them. I'd just got a gasket scraper for general use and discovered plastic razors, so when I saw these it just clicked.
 

YesIHaveAHammer

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2025
Messages
828
Interesting. I just copy and pasted that into Google. Where did you source those?
I'm not in the US, but you can try finding those, or different rebrands of the same type:


I paid just under $20 and it got me up enough to save on delivery charge too. The other slightly different type is usually cheaper than this type.
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,796
Location
Far NE Oregon
They're more often called scraper chisels. They're kind of equal parts chisel, scraper, and pry bar.

The pictured use is always removing balancing weights from alloy wheels, or badges off paintwork. Reason I got them is I was going through a couple of cheap wooden spatulas from the kitchen every year for god knows what around the place. Cutting them down, sharpening them sometimes, hammering them, snapping and splitting them. I'd just got a gasket scraper for general use and discovered plastic razors, so when I saw these it just clicked.
Yeah, that makes sense--but what got me was the "hammering" part. I don't see hammering a chisel--plastic or not--on anything you don't want to scratch.
 

four.cycle

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Messages
28,880
Location
Tacoma, Washington
I'm not in the US, but you can try finding those, or different rebrands of the same type:
Okay... I didn't realize you were out of country. I ran a Google search and there were dozens of outfits peddling them.
I'm going to have to get a set.
I'm not a mechanic. I can see plenty of uses for them for cleaning houses, cars, and on paint jobs. (y)

Found a low-budget version. $16.49 all in:

hopefully they won't be just another garbage knock-off.

<edit> looks like they're only $10 bucks for a set at Walmart (blue knock-offs)
 
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lund

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
768
Location
Michigan
I dont know how that quote got attributed to me, but I didn't make it.

But since I got the notification I'll add my thoughts. I don't know where you live but here in the rust belt where corrosion is the norm, bulbs are regularly used for load testing a circuit. Or to put in place of a solenoid or motor to see it its a wiring or solenoid or motor problem.

A compromised circuit can often carry enough voltage for a good reading on your multimeter, but can't carry enough current to run the load. As an example, a fuel pump might draw 5-8 amps. The bulbs are a good substitute for the pump to ensure circuit integrity.

I don't do the fancy cages, I just have various bulbs in bulb holders with a length of wire attached and two pins soldered on the ends that I made myself.
Bulbs are not necessarily the best for this. Incandescent bulbs are nonlinear resistors and vary load as they heat up. I would make a variant: Have a 12 v low power bulb or small voltmeter in parallel with a selectable load for different current drains at 12V (say with jack selection for the leads; or alternatively use a power potentiometer/variable resistor). Then you could tell from the bulb (or voltmeter) whether the voltage is being pulled down and vary the load to see the response. This would be much better than a high power lightbulb in a cage.
 
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