I ordered one from Lowe's as some kind of hot steaming deal this summer and... and... I don't know what became of all that. The price was right! And it was sold out.
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I ordered one from Lowe's as some kind of hot steaming deal this summer and... and... I don't know what became of all that. The price was right! And it was sold out.
Fly Fishing Rick
Well-known member
I thought it had a tad too much back-drag myself so I chucked mine up in the drill and spun it at a semi-high speed for a few seconds at a time in both directions. Made it a bit better.
Fly Fishing Rick
Well-known member
Well, that excludes it from my list. Thank you.
Yeah the 7mm, 9mm, 11mm
Ohio Andy
Well-known member
I'm curious which one of those you use, or is it all of them? I have the full set from 6 through 19.
Skyman
Well-known member
Thanks. It's a work in progress, and will likely forever remain so, as that seems to be the way with these antique machines. I do think those are the wheels that are perfect on this car.
It's fairly recent. And pricey ($200). But the handles feel
compared to metal. It's already been used several times, and I'm diggin' it. The blade is sharp
Jeffrey D
Well-known member
shoggoth80
Well-known member
Filled a gap in my zero offset wrenches.
Capri 13mmx15mm. Chrome is crazy shiny. Need to see if they also do a 16x18.
Capri 13mmx15mm. Chrome is crazy shiny. Need to see if they also do a 16x18.
TheRealBastard
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 5, 2024
- Messages
- 257
She was rusty as hell. My $12 flea market find.
Got a few Armstrong wrenches from eBay to go along with the two I bought above from @rust in the eye
And 1/4” socket for my great grandfather’s socket set.
Also found an S-K 5/16 combination wrench at a pawn shop for .a quarter.
And 1/4” socket for my great grandfather’s socket set.
Also found an S-K 5/16 combination wrench at a pawn shop for .a quarter.
shoggoth80
Well-known member
She was rusty as hell. My $12 flea market find.
Was. Good save!
Fly Fishing Rick
Well-known member
Off the top of my head, none. But I have other sets with skips and eventually you always need one of the missing ones and have to go searching for one. So I only buy complete sets now.
rust in the eye
Well-known member
Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
Is it marked with a Whitworth sizing indication somewhere? That looks like a routine Williams 606 for 9/16" U.S.S. standard jam (or "check") nuts and bolts, with the Brooklyn-era logo on the face and the Williams "< W >" logo on the neck of the shank.
rust in the eye
Well-known member
Aw, Lugs, don't burst my bubble.
I assumed the <w> to mean Whitworth. Jaws are .972 wide, 31/31"? sloppy 15/16". If not WW what is it??
A chart I found states 9/16 WW is 25.65 mm or ~1.01
Now I'm really confused.
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I have a similar set of these, Matco made (bought 2nd hand for cheap, I would not want to pay tool truck prices as a heavy use DIY guy supporting my family), that are very long without the one side offsets. They are very good for breaking stubborn fasteners free in car suspension work. However, I later got one of the similar length long flex + reversible ratcheting wrenches made by Taiwan Apex under many labels (I have the reversible Icon set). Those are considerably more versatile in terms of access due to the flex ends and ratcheting + reversible makes them more useful for more than just break free. So I do not use the Matco set as much anymore other than if something is very stuck where I fear the ratchet mechanism will break (they are thin and long with thin ratchet heads, so it is easy to overdo the torque so they are notorious for breaking -- which is why I bought them from Icon so I can easily warranty them if the inevitable happens). These long and rigid wrenches with a good pull or few taps with a mallet will break off most anything struck .... or break the bolt if you really pull. Impact hits are better for break away if you can reach the fastener with a impact gun. But these all have use cases and the wrenches can fit in awkward and tight spots with the long reach. Basic wrenches like this are also about as durable as you can get for the size. I generally like to avoid use of pipes and extenders.Filled a gap in my zero offset wrenches.
Capri 13mmx15mm. Chrome is crazy shiny. Need to see if they also do a 16x18.
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Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
The "< W >" does not signify Whitworth, it's the Williams logo. The "9/16" marking is not the milled opening size. It refers to the size of the U.S.S. standard nuts and bolts it is meant to fit. The milled opening should be 31/32", which is the Across-the-Flats size of the nut and the head on a 9/16" U.S.S. standard fastener. (They were 'heavier' with a larger head than the emergent S.A.E. standard nuts and bolts of the same exact thread diameter.) Prior to the mid 1930's, wrenches did not sport milled opening sizes. And even when they did, mfgrs still marked them with the nut and bolt sizes in S.A.E., U.S.S., Hex Cap, and even A.L.A.M. standards.
Your photo is out of focus. If that oval logo on the face reads "BROOKLYN" underneath, it was made before 1914. If it reads "FORGED IN U.S.A." it was made between 1914 and 1924, after Williams relocated to Buffalo.
Many examples and discussion in the Williams thread on the Vintage board.
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rust in the eye
Well-known member
Thanks Lugs.
I learn something here every day.
The opening is indeed 31/32"
The logo stamp is light on the bottom portion but a B and what looks like the top of an R are visible at the left and what is likely an S followed by a clear A to the right. Brooklyn USA, Brooklyn NY USA??
I learn something here every day.
The opening is indeed 31/32"
The logo stamp is light on the bottom portion but a B and what looks like the top of an R are visible at the left and what is likely an S followed by a clear A to the right. Brooklyn USA, Brooklyn NY USA??
TheRealZeus
Well-known member
You probably have found this, but if you had not, another resource. Check year. A lot of comments in follow up of the thread.
How to reset and calibrate your VSC computer - The Easy way
How to reset and calibrate your VSC (Vehicle Stability Control) computer Quick and easy, straight forward, no technical BS. This procedure is...
www.tacomaworld.com
rd65
Well-known member
Not my recent purchase, but it will be for someone.
www.publicsurplus.com
Public Surplus: Auction #3885169
Horizantial Band Saw - Everett Community College Surplus
www.publicsurplus.com
Beerhippie
Well-known member
I've gotten a windfall recently. I also got a couple of new contracts to shoot food for restaurants in the area.
I decided to "up my game" in the photography realm a bit:
I'm a little confused, as I thought I'd ordered a Nikon D780, but I guess that's what happens when I go deep into the night and the barley pops researching new gear. That D850 is a beast of a camera!
I can see I have my work cut out for me transferring files and adding my programs to the new Lenovo and getting the new camera set up the way I like 'em.
First thing I need to do for the camera is return the D780 accessories, order the right ones and DL the Thom Hogan book for the D850.
Oh, yeah, the folded up tripod thing is a light stand for the new Godox continuous light. It's my second one. I'm waiting for the Jungle to deliver my snoot and some other accessories. Shooting with one light and reflectors works, but....
I decided to "up my game" in the photography realm a bit:
I'm a little confused, as I thought I'd ordered a Nikon D780, but I guess that's what happens when I go deep into the night and the barley pops researching new gear. That D850 is a beast of a camera!
I can see I have my work cut out for me transferring files and adding my programs to the new Lenovo and getting the new camera set up the way I like 'em.
First thing I need to do for the camera is return the D780 accessories, order the right ones and DL the Thom Hogan book for the D850.
Oh, yeah, the folded up tripod thing is a light stand for the new Godox continuous light. It's my second one. I'm waiting for the Jungle to deliver my snoot and some other accessories. Shooting with one light and reflectors works, but....
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MWEric
Well-known member
A couple ratchet for the gang box.
Skyman
Well-known member
Foot switch to complete a vintage Rockwell-Delta drill press rehab (project thread here, if you're interested):
Vintage drill press
This was recently given to me by my best friend. I'd be keen to learn anything about it from those who're in the know. Age, availability of a manual for it, etc.
www.garagejournal.com
Been out of town working the last couple of days and so was the wife playing up in Sedona with some GF’s. So I just get home and what’s on my porch….oh boy some Astro goodness and my complete kit of rivnuts.
So whatta I do in my excitement after being up since 2:30 this morning. Well I drop the case right in the latch face and bust it off
Well good thing it’s metal and not a plastic case. I’d of really shed some tears if I had to sort it all out
So whatta I do in my excitement after being up since 2:30 this morning. Well I drop the case right in the latch face and bust it off
Well good thing it’s metal and not a plastic case. I’d of really shed some tears if I had to sort it all out
The threshold ramp isn't solid rubber, but it's pretty robust. Underside:
It can be had in various heights:
VERY cool. I just realized that I need some of these for the shed...
Ditto.
Mike
Both quality purchases. I shoot a D700 and a D800, but never quite made the jump to anything after that. My buddy is shooting the top of the Z series line, and those things are pretty amazing - the AF is incredible.I've gotten a windfall recently. I also got a couple of new contracts to shoot food for restaurants in the area.
I decided to "up my game" in the photography realm a bit:
I'm a little confused, as I thought I'd ordered a Nikon D780, but I guess that's what happens when I go deep into the night and the barley pops researching new gear. That D850 is a beast of a camera!
I can see I have my work cut out for me transferring files and adding my programs to the new Lenovo and getting the new camera set up the way I like 'em.
First thing I need to do for the camera is return the D780 accessories, order the right ones and DL the Thom Hogan book for the D850.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
I'm still not sure how I ended up with the D850 instead of the 780--which is technically a Z-based DSLR.
I've owned too many Nikon DSLS... all because I bought a lot of expensive Nikon glass back in the days of silver and acetate.
The computer is for shooting tethered--what I used to do for food and product work. The one I'm currently using is actually fine--as long as it's hooked up to a monitor and keyboard. I'd forgotten what a 16" laptop was like, and the OLED screen does look amazing!
Now I need a slav... I mean intern. My "studio" is the upstairs seating area of the pub, so I have to lug all my gear up there, set up, take a few shots, then tear down and lug it back down the stairs.
Farmall450
Well-known member
Really cool, I may check into Wuerth next time I am planning a bigger project.In case this is of any interest:
Heco HD Drive, Spax T-Star plus (2x), Wuerth AW (2x) and Wuerth RW all sized “20” - the one above all, a little out of focus is a regular Torx 20 - and that is the common denominator.
And the corresponding fasteners.
Wuerth Assy 4.0 (RW), Wuerth Assy 3.0 (AW), Spax T-Star plus, Heco Topix Plus (HD Drive)
All of these can be driven with a regular Torx 20 bit if you must, albeit being proprietary drive/ head designs.
Two standing out are the Heco HD Drive & Wuerth RW drive, as those form a truly rock solid connection between correct/proprietary bit and fastener when pushed on. This allows for precise, one handed operation without magnetized bit holders, or sleeved bit holders. Obviously that wears over time, but it’s god sent in some situations.
The Heco HD bits are furthermore “reverse” compatible with regular Torx drives.
I used to be heavily invested in Spax fasteners, but after trying Heco’s Topix Plus & Wuerth’s Assy 4.0 fasteners I haven’t stocked up on any Spax T-Star plus fasteners in ages and I’m phasing those out/ replacing them with Heco and Wuerth. Between those two, it’s just a matter of which supplier I have an order going with. Depending on the task I still buy from other brands as well, as not every configuration of fastener is always available, but that is very seldom.
When looking at this, consider the difference between HD drive/RW drive to regular Torx drive being an equally whole landslide type difference that Philips/Pozi to Torx has been before these.
Wuerth AW drive in comparison to regular Torx was never that impressive.
Spax T-Star drive has been solid in regards to positive engagement/ cam out - but never formed that much of a rock solid connection between T-Star plus bit and T-Star plus fastener.
Kind regards,
Olli
For my home/personal needs, a box of T20 Spax did everything I needed but the engagement feels very flimsy. Since then, I only bought T25 sized screws that make up on that but sometimes they certainly seem a bit big for the needs.
Lowlevel2021
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2021
- Messages
- 185
Decided to give this tool a try, worked great breaking the seal on a 6.7 powerstroke lower oil pan.
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Can you build yourself a cabinet up there? Worst-case, would storage under a booth (seat, like inside an RV) help?
Mike
Where and who makes these wrenches? How do they compare with the Craftsman Overdrive if you have experience with them?Ok, some SOB posted a deal on this board for $50 so I picked up a set. This makes my 6th set of metric wrench I have so I really didn’t need them but it is nice having two sets of wrenches in each box in different locations.
Thanks
I have one of these too. It works great for breaking RTV poured seals on flanges like oil pans: The right combination of smaller size, control, and lateral striking surfaces to work well without damaging soft aluminum flanges underneath. I found it much easier and safer than tapping a putty knife around the perimeter of the seal and prying up. So it is a worthwhile "overkill" tool in my experience.Decided to give this tool a try, worked great breaking the seal on the 6.7 powerstroke lower oil pan.
All this being said, I really dislike when auto manufacturers use RTV rather than gaskets in their engines. Flanges become difficult to get apart in repairs, and the RTV seals just do not seem to age as well. I guess the manufacturers mostly care about the car getting past their warranty interval and do not care what happens past that in terms of longevity if they save a small amount. But if you are going to keep the vehicle for long, RTV seals seem to be poor relative to decent quality gaskets. I have a Subaru, and the engine and transmission uses RTV on a lot of key seals essentially dooming you to a lot of late life-cycle seal repairs or a lot of leakage. A lot of the areas that they use RTV seals are also not easy to get to. So they doom you to an extensive rebuild and engine pull as you get up to 200k or more miles -- whether or not the engine pistons are worn.
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Nobody-named-Olli
Well-known member
I hear you on the drive/ head sizes!
I think Spax does deserve credit for being, as far as I know, the first major manufacturer to utilize the T20 drive over the full range of fasteners from 3.5 to 5.0mm diameter. However as you’ve said, engagement is not that great on T-Star plus.
With current Wuerth Assy and Heco Topix plus fasteners, you can enjoy the (T)20 sized drive with rock solid engagement/ fit. And they offer the same range, 3.5 to 5.0mm diameter fasteners with the (T)20 drive size. You just must have the corresponding, proprietary, bit. With a Torx 20, you’ll be reminded of the sloppy fit of the Spax T-Star plus in no time.
Sadly there are still manufacturers that don get it, and they still use the 15 and 25 sizes. Not the end of the world, as you might need the bits/drivers anyway depending on type of fastener/ application, but every now and then its still a little nuisance when having to switch between fasteners on a project.
Kind regards,
Olli