Especially for home use. You buy something like this, they're not horrible. They're not the best, and the one that you use the most. When it breaks, you buy something expensive that will hopefully hold up better... If it's used where time is money or if it's critical well maybe that's different thenThe box says the taps and dies are made in USA with global materials and the drive tools are made in China. So, I'm not sure what the "made in china" in the other picture refers to. I have some Irwin taps and dies, all marked USA, and they are fine for home use. The only tap I've ever broken was a USA made #4-40, notorious for breaking, but I was also being a bit aggressive. It didn't matter, it was a small part, and I just threw it away.
I recall watching a YT video about this. Cutting the leads open to reveal... nothing.Test them before you need them. Lots of cheapish lead sets are absolutely garbage. (I borrowed one from someone once, it turned out to be missing the wire inside the insulation.)
Sure. I know all this. I have better brand taps. I never said Irwin was the best. I said they were fine for home use. I haven't broken one. Most people here aren't going to buy commercial duty taps to use at home.Cases and context. Irwin never was a top brand for taps and dies but an intermediate type you could pick up in the local hardware store. I think most of it's line is now import. This is a new set? Good if made here. But just made in USA with brands like Irwin did not ever mean great quality with taps and dies. Think Sterrett, Greenfield, etc. But they also are expensive.
Small taps are easy to break. You have to be careful and keep backing out and not twist. Even super brands are going to break if you bend them. Stiff and rigid material alloys necessary for a sharp and durable cutting edge also results in them being brittle. That is just the nature of materials. A good example of this is carbide: Super strong to cut hard materials but also very brittle and the geometry of carbide edges are structured to mitigate this issue to the extent possible. Taps and dies will be high carbon steel, high speed steel, and cobalt-type alloys. All will be brittle and small taps need to be used very carefully.





Bluetooth wires?Sure. I know all this. I have better brand taps. I never said Irwin was the best. I said they were fine for home use. I haven't broken one. Most people here aren't going to buy commercial duty taps to use at home.
Sure. I know all this. I have better brand taps. I never said Irwin was the best. I said they were fine for home use. I haven't broken one. Most people here aren't going to buy commercial duty taps to use at home.

Looks like a decent lift but hard to tell from a pic, $3,000?3k motorcycle hoist, 1000kg weight capacity, drop down fr?ont and rear for tyre changing. Lifts to 1200mm high.
No disagreement. It all depends on what one does. Frankly, I am happy if anything below commercial grade is still made in the USA by Irwin or anyone else. I am somewhat skeptical if that is really the case. I sometimes shop in hardware stores and recall looking at Irwin individually packaged taps once on the shelf to get a missing size that I needed and I recall them as all being Chinese origin.
Garage Journal also tends to have a lot of picky and upper end users. I suspect a lot of them do use better grades. Even in car work, I think that is typically advisable for reasons mentioned.




100% agreeSure. But the mantra here is to not buy a set of Irwin ****, wait until you actually NEED a tap and then stop work and order a top quality one from McMaster or MSC. And then wait for two days. Which just isn't realistic in the real world, which is why most actually buy tap and die sets for that emergency use. And yet every time this comes up, it has to be critiqued.
I have a few taps and dies. >90% are not Irwin LOL
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I bought a pair of these after seeing this. I used them for the first time today. I have some radiator bushing I wanted to clean up. These were perfect to grab them either by the hex or the threads and hit them with the wire wheel.Bought these made-in-France Facom 501A locking pliers at Amazon Global Store 10 days ago for $58 (currently at $74). Overall length measures at about 9 7/8". Jaws open up to at least 3 1/8" (80mm). Build quality and chrome appear to be excellent. Facom also manufactured these pliers for Proto Tools. Ultimate Garage in NJ has the Proto version J501A for $73.50.
long-nose-lock-grip-pliers-250-mm
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Fresh off the delivery truck! haha. finally, no more guessing when I need to turn off a circuit to work on something somewhere. I love how the transmitter stores with the receiver. I put a lithium battery in it since I won't be using it daily and don't want to risk forgetting an alkaline battery in it for a long period and ruining it...

I almost went that route but the basic was on sale so I bought it and ordered an adapter kit from another brand and saved a little cash. I've actually bought off-brand accessories for some of my other Klein stuff that I prefer to the originals. Like my multimeter leads. The ones that came with my Klein meter are fine, but the cheap silicone set I paid $8 for are much nicer in my opinion.I just bought that same tracer a couple of weeks ago. Except, I splurged and bought the kit with all the adapters. Good reminder on the lithium battery. I hadn't even noticed it uses a 9v but I have a couple on hand.
I have a cheapie that I bought YEARS ago but wanted something decent. When I retired at the end of 2021, tracing and labeling all my breakers was going to be one of my first projects. Perhaps now I'll actually do it. My whole panel is tandem breakers so I hope this will discriminate between them better than the cheapie. They were reasonably labeled when we remodeled but 32 years later it's all faded away.
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Fresh off the delivery truck! haha. finally, no more guessing when I need to turn off a circuit to work on something somewhere. I love how the transmitter stores with the receiver. I put a lithium battery in it since I won't be using it daily and don't want to risk forgetting an alkaline battery in it for a long period and ruining it...
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That, or use a light socket plug adapter and plug into that.Never knew these existed. I had a new panel put in and it’s been bugging me not having it labeled.
Question: how would I determine light switches being on a circuit. I’m looking at the image of the bigger kit above to see how. Putting the leads on the transmitter and clipping them to the wires connected to the switch?
I have all new flush LEDs in my ceiling. I believe they are the retrofitted ones using the light socket to low voltage adapters.That, or use a light socket plug adapter and plug into that.
In that case I'd get some sort of circuit breaker tracer kit, or purchase the tester that comes with one and clip the alligator leads to the wires at the switch for testing.I have all new flush LEDs in my ceiling. I grieve they are the retrofitted ones using the light socket to low voltage adapters.

I have that kit... Best thing since bologna on white bread.Never knew these existed. I had a new panel put in and it’s been bugging me not having it labeled.
Question: how would I determine light switches being on a circuit. I’m looking at the image of the bigger kit above to see how. Putting the leads on the transmitter and clipping them to the wires connected to the switch?
That is a little fancier than my technique: Jam a fork in the outlet and see which breaker pops.
Give me a scenario where using these will be advantageous...Saltus 3=1 swivel socket combination wrenches 8-19mm
I like variety when I want multiples of anything, it comes in handy sometimes plus interesting. The combination of the design, original brand, discontinued, and ok price convinced me on these. New old stock, including an older version 12mm as it turns out that's all they had left (to my surprise upon delivery). They were all out of 10mm (at least they were upfront about it) so that's a slightly older version still which I found barely used on Germany classifieds. The older ones are I'd say normal length (or short if you ignore the socket), whereas the newer ones are on the long side for a standard length combi wrench (even more so with the socket). The tension on the swivels is good, not floppy. The holes are for tommy bars. They're not quite as good a fit on fasteners as Facom 440s. I'll see how I like using them inline to spin things on/off.
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Anyplace you might otherwise use say a long handle 1/4" flex head ratchet and a socket? And perhaps need an open end of the same size?Give me a scenario where using these will be advantageous...
There are exceptions to every rule but, other than the kitchen, bath, and dining room, the lights are usually on the same circuit as the receptacles in that room. Plug the transmitter into a bedroom outlet, find that breaker and shut it off and usually the lights will be out as well, it might even be two or three bedrooms. Connecting it to the wires on a switch will do no good, fiddling around with the socket adapter will work, but why bother unless you have a ton of time on your hands. An even faster way to label the panel is with two people on cell phones or walkie talkies, one running through the house and the other at the panel turning breakers off.Never knew these existed. I had a new panel put in and it’s been bugging me not having it labeled.
Question: how would I determine light switches being on a circuit. I’m looking at the image of the bigger kit above to see how. Putting the leads on the transmitter and clipping them to the wires connected to the switch?
Nope. Not me. Not a bad idea, though. A momentary-contact button would be more appropriate.
I'm with Rover on this. Looks like hard physical labor to me.
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I have SO 7/16" of this style that I found 30+ years ago, I use it weekly, I don't use it for any other job but I love it for this use, would I like a full set, YES!Give me a scenario where using these will be advantageous...